JetBoatPilot's New Surf Tech, Thrust Vector Wake

[JetBoatPilot]

We could offer a clear anodized at some point. Cost would be about the same as blue or red.

 

[SCP1]

We could offer a clear anodized at some point. Cost would be about the same as blue or red.

Will,

I got ask the question. I boat primarily in rivers and my past experience with aluminum props back in the days when my parents had out boards were not great. Keep in mind my dad knew what he was doing but just driving without hitting sand bars the aluminum props would wear out in a season (due to just sand particles I’m assuming acting as sand blasting almost).The prop would just get thin and brittle. My dad switched to stainless and never had a problem. My question is do you think the aluminum will hold up in a river application? Keep in mind I’m a huge fan, so don’t take the question the wrong way.

 

[Rumbo]

I must admit, I started out skeptical but watching this thread and seeing the videos I am sold! I’m calling to preorder mine before the price goes up. Installing it once and never having to mess with it is what sold me on this over Yamaha’s product.

 

[JetBoatPilot]

Will,

I got ask the question. I boat primarily in rivers and my past experience with aluminum props back in the days when my parents had out boards were not great. Keep in mind my dad knew what he was doing but just driving without hitting sand bars the aluminum props would wear out in a season (due to just sand particles I’m assuming acting as sand blasting almost).The prop would just get thin and brittle. My dad switched to stainless and never had a problem. My question is do you think the aluminum will hold up in a river application? Keep in mind I’m a huge fan, so don’t take the question the wrong way.

On twin engine boats the fins do not hang beneath the keel so not likely to come in contact with the bottom. Also we're going with a very hard aluminum, 6061-T6, so our expectation is that they will be durable enough to come with our lifetime warranty. On single engine boats the fins do hang beneath the keel but we don't anticipate the issues you experienced because the fins are not going to be moving nearly as fast. I'd assume that. Rotating aluminum blade in an abrasive rich fluid stream could wear down quickly. But in order for the sand to abrade it would have to be moving awful fast and very constantly. I don't think you'll have any issues.

 

[dadofral]

I really like the look of the silver finish. Too bad that's not what it's going to look like.

The silver is a raw finish and has a higher chance of oxidation over time without the anodized coating, it makes sense to coat these for the long term of being in water.

 

[capt]

The silver is a raw finish and has a higher chance of oxidation over time without the anodized coating, it makes sense to coat these for the long term of being in water.

When I was writing that I knew someone was going to say this. I was just stating I liked the look of the raw metal.

 

[Rumbo]

Will,

I got ask the question. I boat primarily in rivers and my past experience with aluminum props back in the days when my parents had out boards were not great. Keep in mind my dad knew what he was doing but just driving without hitting sand bars the aluminum props would wear out in a season (due to just sand particles I’m assuming acting as sand blasting almost).The prop would just get thin and brittle. My dad switched to stainless and never had a problem. My question is do you think the aluminum will hold up in a river application? Keep in mind I’m a huge fan, so don’t take the question the wrong way.

How much of this prop wear is due to cavitation? I only ran steel props when I had an outboard because of how soft aluminum is. It’s well known that aluminum props don’t last because of cavitation.

 

[haknslash]

Theres a ton of aluminum boats out there lol. I think it will be fine.

 

[MidnightRider]

Yeah I’m no scientist or anything but you have to imagine the friction forces on a prop is many many magnitudes higher than anything that is sliding on or dragging in the water.

 

[swatski]

Yeah I’m no scientist or anything but you have to imagine the friction forces on a prop is many many magnitudes higher than anything that is sliding on or dragging in the water.

The idea is to go through props faster than they could corrode, so works out fine! (just kidding)

No, but seriously, I think this aluminum prop corrosion issue may have something to do with water chemistry, some rivers can be quite alkaline which corrodes aluminum fast. Honestly, an aluminum prop (usually with black powder coat finish) should last a long long time unless it is mechanically damaged. Gravel will eat them very fast, sand no so much. There should be no cavitation or ventilation if the prop is sized correctly, but that is not always the case. Underpropped - cavitation. Running in circles all the time or sharp turns can lead to ventilation, especially if not trimmed down. Etc etc.
Still, it is good to have aluminum prop on a river if you ask me - as a weak/sacrificial part, otherwise (with SS props) you will end up replacing shafts (and sometimes lower units, lol). DOn;t ask me how I know all that, lol.

BTW - CObra fins have been made of aluminum all along and those hold up just great, so no worries.
O the other hand, the use of aluminum to build fins is an interesting development by JetBoatPilot, and a marked departure from previous standards.

--

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

I used aluminum props on my outboards with no issues and chose aluminum specifically hoping if I hit something that the prop would give, where SS would not, and save more expensive shaft repairs.

 

[gthh]

You had me at aluminum! (and new design).

Just ordered and will be sending in my old Thrust Vectors for the $100 credit promotion as soon as I get the information from you.

 

[gthh]

Will,

I do not have the rudder on my AR230. I know it is ascetics (hey we own boats- it’s all about ascetics !) but the gouge looks horrible not to mention all the time I will be spending telling my buds “what’s that for...”). Can we rudderless boats get a solid fin without the cutout for the rudder linkages? I would pay the premium. thanks.

 

[capt]

Will,

I do not have the rudder on my AR230. I know it is ascetics (hey we own boats- it’s all about ascetics !) but the gouge looks horrible not to mention all the time I will be spending telling my buds “what’s that for...”). Can we rudderless boats get a solid fin without the cutout for the rudder linkages? I would pay the premium. thanks.

I noticed that about 20 mins ago and was wondering the same thing for my sx230

 

[dadofral]

When I was writing that I knew someone was going to say this. I was just stating I liked the look of the raw metal.

Then you could ask for raw alum and have them clear anodized as well, Will mentioned this in a previous post....we have parts at our shop done in black and clear all the time by a local vendor.

 

[dadofral]

On twin engine boats the fins do not hang beneath the keel so not likely to come in contact with the bottom. Also we're going with a very hard aluminum, 6061-T6, so our expectation is that they will be durable enough to come with our lifetime warranty. On single engine boats the fins do hang beneath the keel but we don't anticipate the issues you experienced because the fins are not going to be moving nearly as fast. I'd assume that. Rotating aluminum blade in an abrasive rich fluid stream could wear down quickly. But in order for the sand to abrade it would have to be moving awful fast and very constantly. I don't think you'll have any issues.

6061-T4 is a very common alum, harder temper than any 3000 or 5000 series, you can't bend it with a small radius or it will crack....it lends itself better to flat parts where you need better wear or machined parts. It's oxidation properties are not as desirable as say a 5052 alloy so the anodize coating is a must to protect them....even with the marine grade 5052 alum I would still coat somehow to keep the long term effects of water from doing its thing on alum.

 

[Rumbo]

Just preordered mine! Now I can’t wait for summer!

 

[JetBoatPilot]

Thank you!!!

 

[tabbibus]

Will, what speeds are optimal for the TVW to work the best. The reason I ask is because we are new at boating. Currently we are tubing with our young girls and for the most part our speeds are in the 10-13 mph range. Is this too slow for the TVW to minimize the spray/wash?

 

[biffdotorg]

Will, what speeds are optimal for the TVW to work the best. The reason I ask is because we are new at boating. Currently we are tubing with our young girls and for the most part our speeds are in the 10-13 mph range. Is this too slow for the TVW to minimize the spray/wash?

That's actually the speed most of us will be shooting for when surfing. 10-10.5mph. If you are tubing at those speeds, your boat really isn't even on plane. I'm sure your kids are young, so I understand. But the minimal spray at normal wake speeds of 18mph or tube speeds of 23-25, should be minimized as per Will's previous posts. You should be good to go. I think that will be a nice bi-product for our tubing kids as well. They have gotten used to ducking as they cross the wake. (which I do often when driving)