need advice re: garage expansion

[Julian]

I'd be shooting for an attached garage....from the overhead....#2 looks the most logical....

 

[Speedling]

Why would you say that though @Julian ?
Not that i disagree, i am just having a hard time reasoning it out.

 

[mrmeaniemeateaterman]

To any others out there that have built a garage what size doors did you go with? I have an AR210. Yamaha site says height on trailer is 10ft exactly, so will this fit under a 10ft garage door? Height with tower folded is 8'1'', so will this fit under an 8 foot door? I have read all the post about taking wheels off or lowering the trailer tongue to the ground, but that is not something I want to do on a regular basis. Maybe best to just get the 10ft door and build garage with taller ceiling accordingly?

@Speedling I feel your pain on where to put the garage. My property is a bit of a mess (lots of trees, very un-level, & septic field is prime spot) and on a corner as well. Only difference is I'm in a very "Average Joe" neighborhood and even a detached 2 car garage will definitely put me on the $$$ top of the price list. Not quite sure that I want to be the most expensive house in the neighborhood.

 

[eastcoaster]

If I was looking for a heat source for a garage it would be a mini split air to air heat pump. Cheap to install, super efficient and you have ac in the summer

 

[Julian]

Why would you say that though @Julian ?
Not that i disagree, i am just having a hard time reasoning it out.

Just looks to be a better spot related to the driveway...and perhaps for better sight lines for the house itself.

 

[Bruce]

How about a waste oil heater? I bet you could even use it to power your radiant heat.

As for burying loops 15' for heat exchange, my 200' deep geothermal loops in Arkansas return a max of 60 degree water in the winter.

 

[txav8r]

@Speedling , we also have geothermal heating and cooling in our home. But it is far from economical to do on a small scale. About 3000 sq ft used to be the theoretical cutoff but I fear it is bigger now. The reason is that not too many residential units were ever sold and I think the total percentage of units overall still stand at around 2 to 3 percent of all HVAC for residential use. It is used extensively for commercial use however and very economical to operate. It is the acquisition and installation that is expensive. I paid a geothermal well company $6200 to drill 5 -250' deep holes for my loop, complete the loop, and hook into existing equipment, including loop return pumps. Today, I am told it would be double. If that wasn't bad enough, Trane, and water furnace don't even manufacture the compressors for residential use anymore. So the cost is just out of sight for small square footage. Radiant heat is the way to go however. But today, you can go with commercial radiant fixtures that will be much cheaper to acquire, install, and operate, than the cost of putting it in the floor. I just ordered 2 of the Veito Blade 1500w heaters. These are variable power and water resistant IP55 stainless units. The element is carbon steel inside gorilla glass tube. It is very efficient and low cost at about $399 each. There are plenty of quartz IR heater manufacturers selling here, and very few carbon so far, but that is going to change. Carbon lasts about twice as long and is 30-40% more efficient. This unit is made by a Turkish company and distributed in the UK and Canada, but it is also sold as a market developer product in the USA at home and garden and other similar shows. The are a quick and easy way to provide heat only where you need it without trying to heat a whole garage or shop. Radiant heat is the best heating there is IMO, and if money were no object, laying the loops in the floor and installing it would be a no brainer. I suspect in a shop and garage, cost will be a factor, and you won't go to that expense. Like here in Texas, A/C is a MUST, so not too many will duplicate their efforts and use radiant floor heat because they still have to buy and install ducting for the A/C. Like I said, if money were no object...

 

[Speedling]

My garage will not have ac. If its that hot out i will jump in the pool or take the boat out.
I will probably price the lines to be put into the concrete floor and tested. That way i can do what i want later.
My buddy has a huge garage and did it and it's awesome. His problem is that his work isn't constant so he may have a few weeks of no work and it is a waste of energy. He uses a regular water heater so he can vary it quicker that way if needed. I would rather just use the ground heat to heat in winter, but the digging of holes may be expensive!

Anyways, update on it all, i got 100 plus 2x6s from a job that are 11' long. I am lraning towards the detached idea but placement is the catch. Where i want to put it my power line comes into the house there and the line hanngs right in the way. Maybe i can bury it from the original line, about 150' long, but that means paying and waitong for nipsco

 

[justason]

Hey there @Speedling not sure if this helps, but if your considering a detached here's a web page that can put some design ideas in your head.
these are the two I'm focusing on currently so i don't have to collapse my tower to park the boat.

http://justgarageplans.com/61/plan-detail/2302.php
https://justgarageplans.com/3763/plan-detail/1111.php

 

[Speedling]

Those sure are nice!
But i have a max width of 25' i believe, and want 35' deep. I also want a 16' wide door if possible. The idea of getting my camper in the garage would be wonderful though!

 

[justason]

Those sure are nice!
But i have a max width of 25' i believe, and want 35' deep. I also want a 16' wide door if possible. The idea of getting my camper in the garage would be wonderful though!

Surf around the page. There is a sort feature somewhere to narrow it down. I plan to take ideas from a handful of designs and draw up my own.

Good luck! I cant wait to build this thing. Enjoy your project!!

 

[Speedling]

I actually want everything lined up and my friends/contractors ready to go right after my Cumberland/Shelbyville trip. Probably pull the permit just before in case of any issues that may arise, but i will be extremely busy until after that trip. Then it's go time! Soon as the permit clears i need the concrete done asap so that worst case i am building during winter when i am off of work and wrap it up in spring.

 

[jet-r-done]

We are currently in the process of building a boat garage. We went with a 24x30 garage with a 12x12 door. Since we are on a corner lot, we put the driveway entering from the side street. We had the slab poured for the garage and sunroom that will be between the garage and house. Unfortunately with the sunroom in between, it became an attached garage and we had to apply for a building variance because of easements. I drew and designed the plans, and did the construction myself. If I can offer any advice, I would be happy to lend my years worth of first time building experience.

 

[soggyshoes]

@Speedling This would be a 25' wide by 35' deep garage with 11' wall height so you can use those 2x6's you got. It looked like your house has a full hip roof and you said a 5/12 pitch. I thought you said it was brick? This has a 16' wide by 10' high garage door and the entry door is a standard 3' by 6'8". And of course it has to have a JB flag.
The other picture shows a full size crew cab truck and a 21' boat inside to give you an idea of space. The dimensions in the label in the second picture are interior.
I hope this helps.

 

[Speedling]

Awesome! Printing that out!

 

[soggyshoes]

Glad you liked it. If it is just a picture, it is really easy to change and tweak so let me know if you want to see anything different. If you send me pictures I can even add it as a backdrop or grab colors. I know a picture is worth a thousand words and we have found if the spouse can see an image they are a lot more likely to get on board and be supportive. I could even throw a second floor on there if you wanted a mother in-law suite, office, man den, or kids play room. (Isn't this sites motto "We are happy to help you spend all your money".)
For instance, here is an image with two 10 foot by 10 foot garage doors and the entry door on the side. You can't really go bigger on the doors than this because, at least here, you need to leave at least 2 feet in the corners for shear wall calculations (if you stick with the 25x35 footprint).
Also I would really encourage you to install radiant heat in the slab. For a floor that big you probably want fluid but there are electric 22ov systems that go that big. Even if you only set if so it turns on below 45 degrees it is nice to keep things from freezing. Radiant floor heat in a garage also can really help reduce mold and keep things dry when wet boat, mower, or RV is put in there.

 

[Speedling]

@soggyshoes
Man, these are awesome!
What program are you using? My wife really does love these visuals. I didn't think about the double doors like that! As far as dimensions go, I'm pretty sure on the 35 deep due to wanting room for a shop behind the boat and my truck (extended cab F150 with a cap). The boards I got are not ALL able to be 11' long. Some are kinda rough on the ends so I'm thinking of cutting it down to a 10' board with the bottom and top plates it would be a total of 10' 6" I believe. I am going to keep the hip roof, you are correct. I don't know how easy it would be to have a 10' tall door if the walls are right at that height. I will have to talk to my carpenter(s) to see what's possible. As far as the width of the house, I have to see what is legal here in my unincorporated area. I have 42' from the edge of my soffit to property line. I need to find out if there is anything about distance requirements from the edge of the property and distance from the house. I also have the power line coming from the back end of my property to a pole right there and the garage would be right where it is currently.
10' x 10' doors sound huge, but I like the look actually. I was thinking of a 8' x 16' door, but now that I see it, I may change! Will a boat with tower fit under 10' door? I was also going to be setting up a winch in the ceiling to hook my truck cap to so I can hoist the cap off right where I park and have it up in the ceiling, so that would be further back, but I am wondering if I want gabled ceilings in there?

Brick is white actually.
Door on the side like you have in second picture is correct because that's the house side. Also realized that lights on the sides like that are perfect.
Probably move the one to over the door instead, but my wife pointed out that the house has one by the back door that would light that already.

 

[soggyshoes]

Like this? These are 10 foot walls. The garage doors are 9' tall by 10' wide. For garages, it is possible to have the track turn in as little as 5 inches but they can be rally touchy and expensive. Allowing a foot is plenty. As far as how far back the garage track goes, that is shown in the second image. In the back wall of the garage I placed a 2 foot deep by 4 foot wide tool bench to give you an idea of space. The grids in the second image should be 1 foot spacing.
I threw the classic warehouse light over the door and made the brick whiteish (if I made it truly white it would be hard to see). I then had to paint the door and window molding another color just so you could see it.

Most zoning allow the setbacks for a garage/shop to be closer to the property line if it is shoved to the back like you are doing. With the power you may be able to mast it at the garage and then go underground to the house. That would probably be much more ascetically pleasing than having a power line cutting across your entire back yard.

Are we getting closer?

 

[Speedling]

Are we getting closer?

@soggyshoes
Spot on!
Now, u gonna come over and start work?
Anyone have an estimate on work? Materials? I am pulling in favors for this one but don't want to NEED to in order to finish.

 

[jet-r-done]

Looking good! Just my 2 cents, but here is what I found with my research and designing. most manufacturers require 14 inches between top of door and ceiling to allow for track and opener. They do make special kits for low height ceilings, but they are pricey and tempermental. For this reason, I went with a gable roof instead of a hip, allowing me to lift my ceiling joists 14 inches. As long as the ceiling joists remain in the bottom 1/3 of your gable height, they still have the same structural strength. Doing this, allowed me to have 12 foot walls with a 12 foot door. Also, every location has there own zoning codes, but in my situation I fond out if the garage is a stand alone building it only had to be 3 feet off of the property line. If it was attached to the house, (via a sunroom addition in my case), It had to be 20 feet off the property line. I was at 18 feet, and had to apply for a building variance which I was granted. You may want to check into your easement restrictions before you get too far along into the designs. Just thought I would throw in some of the bridges I had to cross to save you some time and headaches.