New 222 FSH Sport E. Random questions and thoughts

[AlpharettaRK]

So I have 8 hours on it and so far delighted.4th boat but first jet boat and first twin. That impacts some of my observations The first 90 minutes of breaking in were like “ how much did I pay for this pontoon boat?” But now it’s awesome. Random thoughts and questions

I’m keeping it at 6500 RPM or lower until 10 hour service
Any opinion about charging trolling motor batts under boat cover? Seems either NBD or creating a Hindenburg ballon full of hydrogen
previously I have kept boats in garage and trailered. I’m keeping this one on a lift in the water. Which is pretty sweet but is there anything I need to watch out for?
boating here in Georgia is more or less 12 moths but we will have random freezes. Do jet boats truly drain completely when out of the water?
I had Thrust Vectors installed by dealer but with twins I really don’t think I need them
Has anyone installed trolling motor on the right to help with the dreaded port list?

I’ve learned a bunch from this board already thanks for that
cheers
Randy

 

[AlpharettaRK]

PS
I REALLY like when bumping between forward and reverse you don’t get clunky grinding sounds like in I/O or outboard

why do the rocket launchers have braces across bottom that prevent rods from going all the way in? Anybody have issues with rods bouncing out?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Congrats on the new boat!

Why are you keeping it below 6500 rpm’s until 10 hours ? Just trying to be extra nice to the engines? What’s the manual call for as far as the break in goes?

Which cover do you have? Are there vents at the highest point? You raise a valid point about hydrogen gas from the batteries.

As far as freeze protection….for the engine, yes they drain down, follow what the manual says about post operation, once it’s out of the water start each engine and rev each engine repeatedly from idle to half throttle quickly for 10 seconds and this will blow out a lot of the water from the water locks / mufflers. For the raw water wash down, I’m assuming that this is electric on your boat, just be sure to run it dry once out of the water, I disconnect the hose and hold it vertical to get all the water out. The live well system should also drain down once it’s out of the water.

Be sure and use the TDE position of the throttle handles and no wake mode to get the best low speed handling. I’m not sure if the E throttles allow you to infinitely adjust thrust between neutral and TDE or not, but using the no wake mode to raise the engine speed and use the TDE will get you brisk directional control. I don’t have any fins on my boat and don’t think I need them either.

I think some guys have installed their trolling motor on the right / starboard side, but the fiberglass on the stbd side in the mounting area is considerably thinner, It is thicker / reinforced on the port side for mounting the trolling motor. To correct the list be sure and keep the live well full. On my boat with the live well full it’s perfectly level with the trolling motor installed.

Copy that on the smooth transition in and out of gear. And, your boat has brakes, I/O’s and outboards will not shift into reverse if the forward speed is too great, your boat can be shifted into reverse at any speed. In boat tests review of the 195 fish sport Capt Steve demonstrates this at the 3:30 mark, as he says, “not something to be taken lightly“, and he’s serious, the stopping power is very strong. If you are too aggressive with this you can push the bow under (there’s a video on YouTube of some folks in a bow rider doing just that for fun) and throw people either out of the boat or put them on the deck if they’re not ready. Approach this incrementally until you get used to it, this is quite a safety feature.

https://boattest.com/boats/yamaha/195-fsh-sport-2020

The cross braces in the rocket launchers are so that on poles with bases that have slots the poles will not rotate and to keep them from dropping through too far. Your cap rail mounted rod holders are the same. I don’t think anyone has had a rod bounce out. Speaking of cap rail / transom mounted rod holders, you may want to check all of the ones on your boat to see where they drain to, as well as all of the cup holders. On my boat, of the eight cap rail & transom rod holders six of them drained into the boat, with two draining into the aft port / starboard storage compartments, the others into the bilge, I bought universal rod holder slip on drain sleeves from TH Marine and tied them into other overboard drains. Of the eight cup holders in my boat, four of them drained into the bilge, the two in bow just got capped off as there was no way to drain them overboard, the two in the transom got tied into the vertical rod holder drains that previously drained into the bilge. You may want to check to see if you need to seal all of the rod holders and cup holders, none of mine were sealed, and two of the cup holders located in the storage pods allowed wash down or rain water to leak into these storage areas.

 

[VitaminSea]

Welcome aboard, and congratulations on your first twin/jet boat. Appreciate your observations coming from someone with prior boating experience. Don’t have much to add regarding your model specific questions.

Regarding the battery charging under the cover, if they are sealed batteries would you not be ok? My thoughts are as follows - Sealed battery should not release gas when charging, and if some did leak, under the cover is still a rather large area by volume. Also, most Yamaha covers are vented in some way - is yours?

Lastly, your question about freezing, there is a process in the owners manual for “burping” the engine after flushing to blow all the water out of the exhaust. If you do that, and since it sounds like the boat will be conveniently located on your lift, a day or two later fire it back up and let it idle for ~30 seconds or so you should have a pretty dry motor from my understanding.

 

[AlpharettaRK]

When I hear “Break-in oil” I think a thinner oil without the same protection properties as regular oil, in fact intentionally less slippery to help rings seat. So arbitrarily keeping revs down. 35MPH is pretty much fast enough for my better half anyway so not much harm. As far as break-in the manual says below 5,000 RPM for 90 (loooong minutes because you can’t get on plane) and then let ‘er rip.

I honestly don’t know which cover I have, I think it wraps around the base of the t-top not over it. Haven’t yet felt like wrestling the bear to put it on since the boat is covered but at some point I will. I doubt there are vents anywhere.

Not sure what “TDE” is but the throttles have nice positive detents for F-N-R with the forward & reverse being about as slow as the boat can go, then I use the No Wake button to bump it faster and then bump it down as I approach the dock. If I get lost with the controls the direction for each engine is shown below the tachs. It’s also cool to be able to spin in place with the twin engines.

Y'alls advice about draining the water is helpful.

Thanks for the other info, knowing the fiberglass is not as thick on the right cinches it for me – install on the left!

Cheers

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Break oil is a thing of the past. Yamaha oil is mineral oil, and it’s good oil, and that’s what’s in your engine when it’s delivered, it’s regular oil. Yamaha just wants you to change the oil after the first 10 hours and the break in period since there will be extra Contamination due to the break in process. What I would not do for the first two oil changes is put synthetic oil in.

TDE is explained in your manual. It stands for Thrust Directional Enhancer, it is the first detent when you go from neutral to forward, this partially raises the reverse buckets, when you push beyond that the reverse buckets are fully open. In TDE part of the thrust goes down and to the sides to aid in low speed handling.