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Oh yes! another OIL question.

gthh

Jetboaters Captain
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Location
Buffalo, NY
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2007
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AR
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23
I just spent a hour looking for an answer (needle in a haystack) and thought someone can give me some practical experience about this ...

I have no idea what type or weight oil is in my MR1 but I would like to change it over to Mobil 1 10W40.

I can totally( 4.3 quarts)drain (what I want to do-hard) the engine and start fresh or use the suction method and pull out 2.5 quarts and mix Mobil 1 with what ever was put in last year.

So the question is if I do it the easy way can I mix Mobil 1 with anything that is in my MR-1 Crankcase??


Any comments

Thank you
 
Don't over think it....use an extractor....suck out what you can, and replace with Mobil 1 (your first opinion of many!). You can mix it with whatever you have in there.
 
Don't over think it....use an extractor....suck out what you can, and replace with Mobil 1 (your first opinion of many!). You can mix it with whatever you have in there.

this is exactly my aproach. Sucked out what I could, will run it for a good portion of summer and repeat. little of a cost adder but by summers end I should have a decent amount on NEW in there and start a better timed program.
 
That's what I do too. It will eventually cycle itself all out if you change it every season.
 
Or you could buy 3 times the Mobil 1 you need, and change it 3 times after running an hour between each...that would reduce any volume of dino oil to less than 10%. But...even Yamalube is a blend I am told. Is now a bad time to bring up the issue of a 6 month off season?
 
[QUOTE="txav8r, post: 27393, member: 4"]Or you could buy 3 times the Mobil 1 you need, and change it 3 times after running an hour between each...that would reduce any volume of dino oil to less than 10%. But...even Yamalube is a blend I am told. Is now a bad time to bring up the issue of a 6 month off season?[/QUOTE]
Yamalube IS a "blend !" - nothing more, nothing less. In the LONG run, you will always be in a superior position using fully synthetic motor oils, SUCH as Mobil 1. And as 10W-40.
Good Luck, Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA
 
Define Blend. Mobil 1 sued Castrol in 1998 because they marketed Syntec as synthetic. They lost. Blend is a very misinterpreted word. So is synthetic. Oil in an engine has do do many things, one of which is to protect against pressure. Pressure protection only happens when the engine is running. Oil MUST do more than just that, and in boats, many are stored for a period of time in the off season. Synthetic oils do NOT cling as well as mineral oil. Period. During the off season, your engines are exposed to dramatically changing temperatures and humidities. You want all the protection you can get in terms of corrosion and moisture protection. Fully synthetic oils are great at what they are designed for, but long term storage is not their strong suit. This is a multi faceted issue and there is no silver bullet. Fully synthetic motor oils will not always put you in a superior position, but they do have advantages over some mineral oils, when the engine is running. Long term storage is not one of its advantages. There are many studies that say engine damages occur in the first 15 seconds of startup. Consider that many Yamaha owners, not wanting to add fogging oil, go out in the middle of winter, and crank over their engines for 15 seconds every few months. Most measuring sticks say that an "in-service" engine gets 30 minutes of run time per week! Some of the things we do to prevent one issues, cause more concern on many other issues.

Again, there is nothing wrong with using iridium spark plugs or fully synthetic oils...but you can NOT extend the manufacturers recommended change intervals on either. However, the strong suits of some of these products only work when the engines are running, not during storage, and paying much more for a product your going to change annually with low hours is a little self defeating. As a matter of fact, you would serve yourself and your engine better to change the oil twice a year if you store your boat for longer than 2 months. That way, you don't leave moisture and contaminants in the oil over the winter.

There is no right or wrong here. I just want to point out that one size does not fit all. Since about 1995, ZDDP and other additives have been reduced in oils to levels that do not provide adequate protections. For that reason, engine manufacturers and enthusiasts alike, have been recommending other additives besides just oil in the engine and fuel in the tank. Knowing what your cutting out when you make a change is important. Because it may be significant protection your cutting out. In my boat, I run Yamalube 4M 10W40, Yamaha Ring Free, Marine Grade Stabil, and Yamaha Fogging Oil using the Yamaha Tech service bulletin WCA2011-003. In closing, Yamalube is not superior to other oils, and you may find better oil at Walmart. But if your intent is to run a PAO based oil, then your only choices (in the US) are Mobil 1, Amzoil, Red Line, or Royal Purple, that I know of. Just be aware that PAO is designed to protect a running engine, not long term storage of engines.
 
Mel and everyone else: Another incredibly well-stated, and highly "data/information accurate," posting.
Many (ie, ALL) jet boaters would do well to simply read this a minimum of twice, and then follow the recommendations.

Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA
 
Nicely done Mel.

I NEVER get to put as many hours on my boat as I'd like and I always grimace when I change the oil with so few hours on it, but your point about an engine that sits is correct. Especially engines in harsher climates.

Oil is cheap insurance. I don't waste my time wondering which is best or better, I just change it and go. There is an old saying about finding something that works and just enjoying it - stop looking for something better, someone will always tell you there product is so they can get a hand in your wallet.

Don't mess with success I always say. If you find something that you like and works for you, stick with it.
 
@gthh you may want to consult your manual. I'm also in the northeast with a 1 year older boat and my manual calls for 10w30 unless something changed with the 07's.
 
Thanks Everyone. Yes GYM 10W30 is still recommended but I am going with the 40. It goes against my every in"stink" but I will be breaking out my diapers and sucking out the oil this weekend.

Thanks for the support.
 
When I start my boat after it is been sitting for a week or more, I remove the dead-mans safety switch mounted on the side under the throttles, and crank the engines several seconds.
This allows the engines to turn without any ignition or fuel, and gets the oil flowing first.
I figure it can not hurt.

And for oil I use Klotz SkiCraft X4 10W40
It is a synthetic designed for pwc 4 stroke motors.
 
I agree Mel's post is very well stated.

I would add that I have also heard that mineral oil has advantage over synthetic in wetting seals and keeping them expanded. Some on the car world have found (and I have heard it on out boats) that going to full synthetic allows the various seals to contract over a year or two and small leaks develop. Nothing that is going to be critical, usually, but enough to annoy when there are drips or a few tablespoons at the bottom of the engine compartment.

Therefore I generally support a blend.
 
Good thread. I'm a Castrol GTX guy. Have always used it in my high revving motorcycle engines with no issues. On a totally separate note, after reading through this thread I kinda chuckled. Isn't it crazy how we analyze what we put in our boats, yet don't think twice about what is in the hot dog we just grilled and fired down our throat!!! Maybe I just thought of this since I just ate one of those gas station burritos........which will most definatley fowl my plugs later!
 
I am a Castrol Syntex guy from way back, but I haven't used it in awhile, because they use Mobil 1 for synthetic at both auto dealerships for both vehicles. But I like Syntex, and it contains a highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil instead of a chemically synthesized base stock. I suspect Yamalube is also. But there are many oils on the market that are quality at a fraction of what Yamalube is, and probably the same thing.

If you want to discuss the rational of the forum Mike, feel free to enter a conversation with @Bruce , @Julian , and myself. This is a member run forum, and so far, the majority of the membership seem to not only like the forum, but appreciate the effort to keep it civil and upbeat. No argument here on the difference of opinion on all sorts of topics, but they are related to our love of these boats. Religion, politics and otherwise isn't, and drawing lines in the sand over issues unrelated to our forum isn't worth the risk of losing ground is it? There are plenty of places for you to share your views on those subjects. Thanks for keeping it civil!:winkingthumbsup"
Edit: I should have added @Murf'n'surf and @OperationROL too!
 
I don't understand? Who brought up politics? Am I missing something?
 
Mods (and admins) do not edit or remove anyones posts or threads without being asked to by the OP. Mods may suggest a change of tack, or move a thread to NSFW if necessary, but it is fully disclosed to the OP if necessary. In this situation, the poster edited his own thread without being asked to. That is the issue with deleting yourself...it breaks the continuity and then questions arise as to why it sounds the way it does. If a mod edits anything, it will be clearly stated as to what was edited, why, and who did the edit. And in addition, there is discussion among the mods as to what if anything should be done. This isn't a one man show. The attempt is going to always be transparent.
 
Quick question...new boat how many hrs until the first oil change ? 10 like waverunners or is it something different
 
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