Powder coated nozzle/gate?

[justason]

I've seen a few images of powder coated nozzles and gates. Anyone here? Happy with the results?
I'm never done powder coating myself but I believe it is pretty straight forward ?? Any threats to be made aware of ?

I was working on the boat last night and as a result I found some corrosion on the nozzles and general wear started to catch my eye the closer I looked. Considering something to dress it up..any other options?

Also the clearance holes shown on the side are duplicated on the other side, and a few along the rear surface. Should I JBWELD these back to a solid? Can they be noodled?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Lspeedss]

Noodled?

 

[justason]

Noodled?

humor attempt towards the cult of the noodled.........sorry......

 

[Lspeedss]

BTW I have the same issue with some scars on my gates and nozzles. My first project this year was to remove my gates when converting to Thrust Vectors. Fill in the old Cobra holes with JB weld putty. Strip the anodizing from my gates blast finish and polish the center rail and the clear powder coat. Or take and just Anodize them black.. I let you know and post pics.
Steve

 

[justason]

Thanks Steve !! I welcome a follow up on this.

I'm going to do the JBweld approach this weekend as a preliminary step in this direction......I have to put the scupper and possibly tinted windows in front of this task.....

 

[Andy S]

Last year I converted from Cobra Jet Fins to the larger Thrust Vector XL's. I also had some pitting and discoloration on the nozzles and bucket plus needed to fill the holes from the previous fins. I used JB weld to fill the holes and used 120 and 400 wet/dry sand paper to cleanup the nozzles and bucket. I did not sand them to a perfectly some finish, the primer will fill in any minor defects. Then I painted them first with Mar-Hyde self etching primer and then with Rustoleum gloss black paint, I only painted the outside of each part. I did this in spring of last year (before our 2013 Bimini trip) and so far they have held great, even after the week of continuous saltwater exposure.

 

[Volffas]

That looks really good. How much time do you think it took you to do the whole job?

 

[Andy S]

That looks really good. How much time do you think it took you to do the whole job?

The longest part of course was letting the JB weld and the paint dry/cure. From start to finish, which included the fin replacement, it took about 6 hours to complete. I wish I had gone one step farther and did the pump housing while I was in the process, oh well now something else on my list of things to complete on my baby.

 

[justason]

Last year I converted from Cobra Jet Fins to the larger Thrust Vector XL's. I also had some pitting and discoloration on the nozzles and bucket plus needed to fill the holes from the previous fins. I used JB weld to fill the holes and used 120 and 400 wet/dry sand paper to cleanup the nozzles and bucket. I did not sand them to a perfectly some finish, the primer will fill in any minor defects. Then I painted them first with Mar-Hyde self etching primer and then with Rustoleum gloss black paint, I only painted the outside of each part. I did this in spring of last year (before our 2013 Bimini trip) and so far they have held great, even after the week of continuous saltwater exposure.

HI Andy !! your boat from Bimini 2013 is my motivation for this effort....(invoice for my TV-XL's sent to you today ) @upperdeck 212x is gonna hurt me for hydroturf next !!
.....I need to explore further on paint vs powder vs anodize.......Glad to hear yours has held up like it has. Looking back at my original image above: that sacrificial anode was shiny new before our trip. I'm amazed what a week did to the two of them......which is a good thing I guess !!

The gates look great. On the fence about the entire pump housing....

just got back from northern tool with JB weld.......need sixpack and the weekend now !!.....

 

[upperdeck]

You'll love the hydroturf or hydroteak or whatever you choose! I know I'm loving mine. A double plus is that no fishing hooks can get stuck in the carpeting either!

 

[Bruce]

I believe my hydro teak is arriving tomorrow!

 

[Julian]

@andy07sx230ho when can I drop by boat off to have my nozzles done? LOL Looks awesome! CRAP CRAP CRAP CRAP!!!!!!!!! Now I have another thing to add to my list of things to do to the boat!!!!!

 

[Andy S]

@andy07sx230ho when can I drop by boat off to have my nozzles done? LOL Looks awesome! CRAP CRAP CRAP CRAP!!!!!!!!! Now I have another thing to add to my list of things to do to the boat!!!!!

Thanks! Sorry Julian, as you well know that is the trouble with this forum, it seems to cost us more time and money, but it is well spent.

 

[Lspeedss]

@justason . Check it. Polished and clear powder coated. Just finished them up today at work. Can't wait to mount them.

 

[waterboy]

Justason,

Looking at the picture you posted, it looks like your anode might need replacing. Being in the salt water, these are your first protection against corrosion.

Another thought is that if you are looking to paint the nozzles, rather than something off the shelf at the hardware store, consider Pettit Alumaspray paint . I don;t know much about this product but, this is designed as an antifoulant to protect aluminum in salt water. It may not be as glossy but would probably do a 10x better job of protecting the aluminum than normal spray paint.

 

[upperdeck]

From the BoatUS website.

Zincs should be replaced when about half of the anode has been lost to corrosion. Ideally we want that to occur not more frequently than annually. The longevity of a sacrificial zinc anode is a function of its weight. When a zinc lasts less than a year, you need one with more weight.

From that perspective, I think the zincs look fine. But there are other zincs besides the large blocks next to the nozzles, and those aren't pictured...

 

[waterboy]

Not to start the dreaded anode discussion, but... you are exactly right about the 50% loss in weight of the anode. My only point was that if the anode looks like that after 2 weeks in salt water (2 trips to Bimini), why wait another week in Bimini before replacing. After 6 years in fresh water with my boat, the anodes look like brand new, so I am assuming they look like that after his 2 Bimini trips. I will be curious to see what my pumps look like this year after Bimini.

The picture is a bit fuzzy, but the white covering on the zinc is zinc oxide which can hinder performance of the anode. The zinc can also become porous as it corrodes from the inside out also. Without weighing the anode to know how much is really gone, I would rather spend a few bucks and replace the zinc. But I will admit to being anal, uptight, and whatever adjective you can come up with (call my wife, she can add a few too...) Also, my 2007 only has 1 anode per pump , the other boats may have more.

Anyway, just my perspective on it

 

[upperdeck]

Not to start the dreaded anode discussion, but... you are exactly right about the 50% loss in weight of the anode. My only point was that if the anode looks like that after 2 weeks in salt water (2 trips to Bimini), why wait another week in Bimini before replacing. After 6 years in fresh water with my boat, the anodes look like brand new, so I am assuming they look like that after his 2 Bimini trips. I will be curious to see what my pumps look like this year after Bimini.

The picture is a bit fuzzy, but the white covering on the zinc is zinc oxide which can hinder performance of the anode. The zinc can also become porous as it corrodes from the inside out also. Without weighing the anode to know how much is really gone, I would rather spend a few bucks and replace the zinc. But I will admit to being anal, uptight, and whatever adjective you can come up with (call my wife, she can add a few too...) Also, my 2007 only has 1 anode per pump , the other boats may have more.

Anyway, just my perspective on it

I agree better safe than sorry. Interestingly enough, the Owner's Manual says the anodes are aluminum and NOT zinc. It also shows the only anodes as the large blocks on the side of the pump. I was certain they were in other locations, but the neither the Owner's Manual nor the Service Manual shows any other location.

 

[waterboy]

Holy crap. they say the anodes are aluminum. I hope not. Why the hxll would they put aluminum anodes on an aluminum pump??? I do know they say to use aluminum anodes over zinc in salt water, but that would be on steel, right? and then zinc in fresh water. I think I have that right.

If it helps us feel better at all, every picture I have seen of anodes on our boats show the anode corroding over the pump. The anode has got to be a less noble metal than the pump is then..

 

[upperdeck]

Here's what the rest of that BoatUS article has to say about anode material...

Not zinc
In recent years cadmium in zinc has become an environmental concern, leading to a movement in the direction of aluminum anodes. Such anodes are effective even for protecting aluminum components--lower end cases, for example--because the aluminum used in the anode is a more anodic alloy. Aluminum alloy anodes are almost certainly to become more common. It has not happened already only because the cost of aluminum anodes has been higher than zinc without any discernable benefit to the boatowner. Today aluminum is actually cheaper than zinc. In addition, aluminum anodes tend to last longer, they work better than zinc in brackish water (and maybe in salt water as well) and they appear to be better for the environment. When making the switch from zinc to aluminum, ALL of your anodes must be aluminum. This can be a problem in some locales as many local marine suppliers still do not stock a wide selection of aluminum anodes. That will eventually change.

In fresh water, magnesium anodes protect underwater metals better, particularly underwater aluminum. However, magnesium is a good choice for freshwater only. If any of your boating is also in brackish or salt water, fit aluminum anodes.