Pump pull 2021 SX210 help

[Carlosralph]

I’ve read through many posts and watched videos on pulling pumps, but when I got ready to try mine it appears to only be two pieces (one section for the bucket and another that houses the impeller housing) and it’s very difficult to break the housing free (black sealant holding it on). Any tips for how I can get this off so I can replace my wear ring? I had a mishap running over a mystery object on the lake and I’m having bad cavitation on the starboard side.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Use the curved end of this tool on the dedicated pry points, use pressure on each side, some pressure on each side, increasing as necessary, it will come free all at once.

 

[jmargo]

you got the little 10mm bolt also ?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

When removing the pump housing remember you are also pulling the drive shaft from the intermediate bearing, also there are pry points on the pump housing and I have found that a 5 lb slide hammer with a special end made to connect to the pump housing and work it loose usually gets it loose .

 

[Carlosralph]

Thanks for all the tips…is there anything special I should do with the black sealant (heat, etc.) or is it just a matter of working the pry points until the unit pops out?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for all the tips…is there anything special I should do with the black sealant (heat, etc.) or is it just a matter of working the pry points until the unit pops out?

Just keep working around the pump and it will eventually pop off, mine were stuck on there pretty good.

Do you have all the other items you need? The lock tite gasket maker, molybendumdisulphide grease for the shat, bearing cone O rings an EPNOC grease? Might as well service everything on both pumps while you are at it. The service manual calls for a 100 hour check of the pump cones and the grease.

 

[drewkaree]

When removing the pump housing remember you are also pulling the drive shaft from the intermediate bearing, also there are pry points on the pump housing and I have found that a 5 lb slide hammer with a special end made to connect to the pump housing and work it loose usually gets it loose .

This is good advice for the 3-piece units, and there are still pry points to separate the 2-piece units, but a slide hammer is likely overkill for the 2-piece units.

The pry bar shown by @FSH 210 Sport should be more than enough, when used in the proper spot.

As @jmargo points out, there's an additional 10mm bolt that is on the 2-piece, so you may damage something trying to pry/hammer the pump off if you haven't realized that needs to be removed as well.

I posted some pics around here of where to place the pry bar, I'll try to track them down and repost them here as well.

Grease for the splines should be done after removal. LOCTITE sealant for the bolts (I wouldn't use any other brand of sealant for those - that's the white stuff on the ends of the bolts to keep them from rusting/seizing). Everything else @FSH 210 Sport suggested. You might be fine putting things back together for the day, but make sure you go back and do it right after gathering those supplies he mentioned.

 

[drewkaree]

The red circle shows the pry point @Cobra Jet Steering LLC is talking about. A large flat screwdriver worked best for me, but the pry bar may work as well. I didn't have it at the outset, and didn't realize I needed it until after separating these first 2 sections.


The arrows show your pry points to remove that piece that's holding the impeller shaft Jeff is talking about. It should become apparent where to pry with my subsequent pics

 

[drewkaree]

10mm bolt location. Remove this. I can't recall just how deep this is, but it IS called out in the service manual, so more info on this might be needed, but removal is easy.

 

[drewkaree]

Areas where your pry bar will EASILY slide behind, colors correspond to the pic 2 posts above this. You will also have the metal plate against the transom fo pry against, and that black sealant shouldn't be thick enough to even challenge your pry bar. You will feel exactly what I'm talking about once you get one side moving even slightly. Mine almost fell right on the impeller shaft once the sealant was compromised on one side, so make sure to support this assembly as best as you can.

 

[drewkaree]

White dots are the LOCTITE sealant for the bolts, blue is your EPNOC grease for the impeller splines, red circle is the Loctite gasket maker, oring is under the cone, etc etc etc.

By the time you're at this point, everything should be simple to understand, and self-explanatory as you investigate. If NOT, then hit us up with your questions

 

[drewkaree]

Thanks for all the tips…is there anything special I should do with the black sealant (heat, etc.) or is it just a matter of working the pry points until the unit pops out?

The special thing to do with the black sealant is to curse the use of so much of it holding your ride plate in place LOL

Once it's pried on, and starts to let loose, it'll separate in the pump area quite easily, support the pump as best you can before prying

 

[Carlosralph]

Just keep working around the pump and it will eventually pop off, mine were stuck on there pretty good.

Do you have all the other items you need? The lock tite gasket maker, molybendumdisulphide grease for the shat, bearing cone O rings an EPNOC grease? Might as well service everything on both pumps while you are at it. The service manual calls for a 100 hour check of the pump cones and the grease.

For the gasket maker, is it Loctite 518 (red) or should it be the Loctite RTV 598 (black), or something else? I’ve read that either using 518 (or nothing) on the old pump style works, but I’m not sure if there’s a different recommendation for the new pump style given that a black sealant is what is currently on there. Thanks again for all of the help on this!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Gasket eliminator

Amazon.com

Thread sealant

https://www.amazon.com/567-Thread-Sealant-50-Tube/dp/B01N9ZH553?pd_rd_w=mtC2U&content-id=amzn1.sym.c15e5526-d433-4ac0-a393-a3f3f7218fab&pf_rd_p=c15e5526-d433-4ac0-a393-a3f3f7218fab&pf_rd_r=8W0F0S37HDPVQJ64GQWX&pd_rd_wg=ONGLE&pd_rd_r=58393eec-fa15-44f2-8da0-d4b41cb2083d&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_t

EPNOC grease for the bearing cones

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

Molybendum disulphide grease for the shaft splines

Amazon.com

Do you have a service manual? If not let us know and I will post the torque specs for the bolts, these are steel bolts going into aluminum and the torque is not very much.

You will need taps to clean out the bolt holes and dies to clean the bolts, and compressed air to blow out the bolt holes. These steps here make everything go back together smoothly.

Clean the splines / shaft where it goes into the intermediate shaft aka the end, apply the moly grease to the splines, and put some marine grease on the shaft for a couple inches behind the splines.

 

[Carlosralph]

Gasket eliminator

Amazon.com

Thread sealant

https://www.amazon.com/567-Thread-Sealant-50-Tube/dp/B01N9ZH553?pd_rd_w=mtC2U&content-id=amzn1.sym.c15e5526-d433-4ac0-a393-a3f3f7218fab&pf_rd_p=c15e5526-d433-4ac0-a393-a3f3f7218fab&pf_rd_r=8W0F0S37HDPVQJ64GQWX&pd_rd_wg=ONGLE&pd_rd_r=58393eec-fa15-44f2-8da0-d4b41cb2083d&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_t

EPNOC grease for the bearing cones

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

Molybendum disulphide grease for the shaft splines

Amazon.com

Do you have a service manual? If not let us know and I will post the torque specs for the bolts, these are steel bolts going into aluminum and the torque is not very much.

You will need taps to clean out the bolt holes and dies to clean the bolts, and compressed air to blow out the bolt holes. These steps here make everything go back together smoothly.

Clean the splines / shaft where it goes into the intermediate shaft aka the end, apply the moly grease to the splines, and put some marine grease on the shaft for a couple inches behind the splines.

I just ordered the service manual yesterday, but I’ll gladly accept any information you have since I’m sure it’ll take a while to get to me.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I just ordered the service manual yesterday, but I’ll gladly accept any information you have since I’m sure it’ll take a while to get to me.

Does your boat have the TR 1 engines?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

These are the specs for my TR-1 powered 210 FSH Sport.

 

[Carlosralph]

These are the specs for my TR-1 powered 210 FSH Sport.


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Thanks so much!

 

[Carlosralph]

So I got the unit out and could hear a little rattle (uh oh)…opened the nose and it was all shredded metal and some bearings just fell into my hand. Didn’t look like there was any grease in there from the factory (boat only has 34 hrs and I haven’t touched that before). I’m guessing I’ll have to be replacing the housing and possibly the shaft…any thoughts on if this is DIY or should I take the assembly to a service center?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

That sounds like a warranty item. I’d take it and have it done

I am not sure if there is a time as well as hour maint requirement on those bearings.

sorry to hear that.