Really dumb bilge pump question

[JN82]

Just put our new 2017 AR210 in the water, and I wanted to clarify something the tech told me on our test run. We have the boat in a wet slip now, and he said to leave the battery switch on, but we don't need to turn on the bilge pump switch, since it will come on automatically when there's enough water. But I've read elsewhere that we need to leave the switch on all the time. Is this something that has changed with more recent boats?

I have access to power at the slip, and I'll be installing a charger this week!

 

[Bruce]

The tech misled you. If the bilge pump switch is off the bilge pump is off. Any time the boat is in the water the bilge pump switch needs to be on.

 

[swatski]

I can not keep track - is this model a connext boat? Those have the crazy setup where the house switch needs to be on and nothing else (I think?) for the bilge pump to do its thing - a "sensing" cycle every 2-3min.
@Julian do you know? I asked about that once but I forgot what the answer was (and I got a backup pump since so mine is now different).

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[JN82]

I can not keep track - is this model a connext boat? Those have the crazy setup where the house switch needs to be on and nothing else (I think?) for the bilge pump to do its thing - a "sensing" cycle every 2-3min.
@Julian do you know? I asked about that once but I forgot what the answer was (and I got a backup pump since so mine is now different).

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Well, that's what I assumed from what the tech told me - the battery switch is on, so the bilge pump is automatically on. But according to my manual (this is a 2017 AR210 with Connext), if the bilge pump switch isn't on, then the bilge pump will not operate - even automatically.

 

[swatski]

Well, that's what I assumed from what the tech told me - the battery switch is on, so the bilge pump is automatically on. But according to my manual (this is a 2017 AR210 with Connext), if the bilge pump switch isn't on, then the bilge pump will not operate - even automatically.

Well, if you have a separate bilge pump switch than yes - I would leave it on (automatic). But the Connext has the screen-operated bilge switch (I think), so when the screen is off you can not control the bilge pump manually.

I was told the bilge will work with the house switch on and the screen off. I confirmed that - as you can hear the bilge come on every few min in a quiet environment.

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[Julian]

Yup....bilge pump switch needs to be on.

 

[jameskeller76]

Well, if you have a separate bilge pump switch than yes - I would leave it on (automatic). But the Connext has the screen-operated bilge switch (I think), so when the screen is off you can not control the bilge pump manually.

I was told the bilge will work with the house switch on and the screen off. I confirmed that - as you can hear the bilge come on every few min in a quiet environment.

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This is correct.

 

[Matt Phillips]

Yep...the bilge pump switch needs to be on for the pump to run. The thing to note though is that the pump will cycle 450-500 times in a 24 hour period and it won't take long to kill your battery. This then poses the next challenge of keeping the battery charged.

On my old 232, I ran a fused switch to the bilge pump direct to the battery, then used a solar charger on the tower. Here's the link to how I set that up: https://jetboaters.net/threads/solar-battery-charger-install-w-pics.3414/

I'll be picking up a 242x e-series tomorrow and I will likely look at adding a similar set-up to the boat sometime this summer. Even though the 242 has solar panels, I sort of like the idea that I can have everything turned off on the boat with the exception of the switched pump.

 

[swatski]

Yup....bilge pump switch needs to be on.

There is a bilge pump switch in Connext boats that can be turned on with the screen off?

The one on the left under the screen only seems to work with the screen, just like the joystick and other buttons (with the exception of SYS - which turns the screen /everything on when pressed and held).


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[Murf'n'surf]

If I were wet slipping, I would wire in a secondary bilge pump with a manual float switch and wire directly to the battery bank. This way, the boat can remain in the water with the battery switch off and no battery power will be lost to led lights in the bilge switch and random pump cycling. Increasing your battery bank is advised if you cant run the boat on continuous shore power/battery charger.

 

[swatski]

If I were wet slipping, I would wire in a secondary bilge pump with a manual float switch and wire directly to the battery bank. This way, the boat can remain in the water with the battery switch off and no battery power will be lost to led lights in the bilge switch and random pump cycling. Increasing your battery bank is advised if you cant run the boat on continuous shore power/battery charger.

Totally, with a fuse close to the bat.
Here is a quick repost of my setup:

"I don't particularly care for the factory bilge pump set up. I don't really like leaving the boat with battery switches on, if it can be avoided.... So, in my boat I finally got a backup bilge pump installed - the way I like it - direct to the battery (fused).

I use the simplest of all pumps - an automatic with a float switch. Attwood or Rule, doesn't matter, they are all the same. They all get terrible reviews, but I think it is primarily due to installation and maintenance issues.
The Ultra (brand) switch is about the only thing that will not fail - and something I would get if I wet slipped.

Otherwise, they all can get stuck in either "off" or "on" position, but I believe those inexpensive float switch automatics are actuslly the most reliable, if frequently tested and kept reasonably clean. One of my past boats leaked heavily (before I rebuilt the transom) - I had a chance to test various setups over the few years I kept it, lol.

Basically - the cycling ones (like the OEM pump) sense a load, any load - so it could be debris that will keep those on and drain your battery pretty quickly leaving the boat unprotected. Same with the "actual liquid sensing" (conductance, optical or whatever) - those can be fooled/activated by dirt - and stay "on". What is even more worrisome, neither of those two types (or the newer ones that "sense" but then default to "cycling" if they think it is just dirt) will actually pump if gasoline or oil is present...
(I'm all for clean environment, but if my boat sinks....)

Here is my backup bilge pump setup (inside the stern):

The pump's base is screwed and 5200-ed to one of the support beams (for the ride plate underneath the hull) at the bottom of the bilge. This backup pump operates completely independently of the factory bilge pump and is the only device in my boat that is live when all battery switches are "OFF". I have it wired directly to the house battery with a 16awg wire (using ground-black, and automatic - brown, with the brown/white - manual sealed off) running in a loom (top in the picture) - going into the engine compartment inside another large loom, along steering cables. The hot wire is fused within few inches of the positive terminal with a 5A fuse. The drain hose (bottom) is a standard 5ft 3/4" with a dedicated thru-hull outlet fitting installed above/forward off of the strbd rear cleat (don't have a picture).

Oh, I forgot to add - the pump is accessible through the cleanout tray hatch/opening - I can reach it to test the pump with the little dial knob. "

EDIT: Here is a picture of the outlet - the pump ejects a 5ft long stream. When putting this kind of back up together - I think it is very important to have an independent hose line/outlet, a well designed system with a short, clear path is more important than the nominal "GPH" rating of a pump, which is often based on unrealistic circumstances.


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[Julian]

Which is why if you are wet slipping your boat...you ideally want an on board charger and shore power for real peace of mind!

 

[jameskeller76]

There is a bilge pump switch in Connext boats that can be turned on with the screen off?

The one on the left under the screen only seems to work with the screen, just like the joystick and other buttons (with the exception of SYS - which turns the screen /everything on when pressed and held).
View attachment 56907

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With connex, no. When you turn the batteries on the bilge is on.

 

[Billtex2000]

I simply swapped out the automatic pump with a manual model (higher GPM) that fit in the same screen and added an electronic float switch. About an $80 investment. Switch stays off, no draw, and can still be turned on manually. Never liked the idea of that automatic pump that cycled all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9RF1K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8B854/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[4x15mph]

Just put our new 2017 AR210 in the water, and I wanted to clarify something the tech told me on our test run. We have the boat in a wet slip now, and he said to leave the battery switch on, but we don't need to turn on the bilge pump switch, since it will come on automatically when there's enough water. But I've read elsewhere that we need to leave the switch on all the time. Is this something that has changed with more recent boats?

I have access to power at the slip, and I'll be installing a charger this week!

for the 2017 Ar210, with the 4.3 connext, there is no bilge control via connext like the 212 series so you do need the bilge rocker switch set on. The bilge does not cycle but has an auto float that will come on when water is sensed. There are differences with years/models so I am just clarifying based on the original question

 

[DRAT]

New owner of a 2015 AR240 in a wet slip, here. I feel like I’ve read in this post that if the battery switches are on, the factory bilge will operate as needed (there is no bilge rocker switch). Can anyone confirm that 100%?

 

[FLJetBoater]

New owner of a 2015 AR240 in a wet slip, here. I feel like I’ve read in this post that if the battery switches are on, the factory bilge will operate as needed (there is no bilge rocker switch). Can anyone confirm that 100%?

I just found out today while I was testing the install of my 2nd bilge pump that my factory pump does NOT come on unless the boat is in float mode. Just having the battery on with no keys in doesn’t activate the bilge.

I have a 2015 242 LS.

 

[FLJetBoater]

With connex, no. When you turn the batteries on the bilge is on.

This is not true on my 2015

 

[Matt Phillips]

It was similar on my 09 232. Bilge pump only worked when switch was on. I fixed that by following the bilge pump wires up along the back of the engine compartment, then tapped into them and ran a wire over to the House Battery. I bought an in-line fuse, and then a small switch I mounted near the batteries. When I turned on the Batteries before launch, that switch went on. I believe the cost was about $25 for all the parts and an hour of my time.

 

[FLJetBoater]

It was similar on my 09 232. Bilge pump only worked when switch was on. I fixed that by following the bilge pump wires up along the back of the engine compartment, then tapped into them and ran a wire over to the House Battery. I bought an in-line fuse, and then a small switch I mounted near the batteries. When I turned on the Batteries before launch, that switch went on. I believe the cost was about $25 for all the parts and an hour of my time.

I installed a 2nd one as a backup. But it’ll end up being my main when the boat is off and backup when it’s on