• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Repower 2004 AR210 with MR-1 HO's

ordered some inexpensive Solas YG-DF-15/22's to try...

s-l1600 (3).jpg
 
Last edited:
just did the oil and filters yesterday and I'll stick the 15/22's in over Christmas break it also looks like my Stbd cleanout plug is leaking... so I'll throw a rebuild kit in it... I'll pull the plugs and put in a fresh set. and ill likely reseal the pump tunnels when im in there as well
 
Binge read your whole thread this mornin, amazing job of not only converting the engine configuration, also the wiring trouble shooting the ECU’s between wave runner and boat configuration. Great job on cleaning up the wiring as well!

I do think the song with the lyrics “welcome back my friends to the show that never ends” is ELP (Emerson Lake and Palmer) off of Brain Salad Surgery ?.

Again, Bravo on this project!
 
Update on the tie bar engine mount... there were a number of questions as to why I put that tie bar in between oil tanks... the main reason is that I didnt have room for the vibration damper in the boats and skis that are under the oil pan... So... when I did the pump/mid bearing update i did start the engines without the tie bar installed and they did vibrate/rock back n forth noticeably at idle... bolted the tie bar back in and the vibration was completely damped so it stays in...

attachment - 2022-05-03T171219.845.jpgattachment - 2022-05-03T171229.264.jpgattachment - 2022-05-03T171247.927.jpg
 
i think i found some of my missing speed.... i have 5 degrees nose down trim tab at fully retracted... that was perfect for the two strokes as it kept it from porpoising at WOT.... I think its needs to be 0 or 5 Degrees nose up for the MR1s at cruise.... It was very smooth water today and I spent prolly 30 min playing with throttle settings and trim tab settings... it acts like it wants to go faster... Ive been using the tab more and more lately to keep the stern outta the water coming on and off plane....
 
I think we've come to the conclusion that my stbd jet tunnel is in need of resealing, and the 12/20's are doing well however the 15/22 Dynaflys should do better based on plotting out the RPM vs GPS speed the caution will be what RPM can I spin them. so the next step is to pull the pumps and reseal the jet tunnels tomorrow and install the 15/22's Testing will be on Saturday
 
ok tore the stbd all apart checked all the sealant very carefully and found the issue... the starboard transom plate to jet shoe joint had sucked the 5200 sealant out had a 2" x 0.125 gap that was on the top and hard to see as the 5200 looked good until i probed it with a screwdriver and moved like a one way FLAP.... the wrong way... that 'll be you cavitation problem lady... I wonder how well it will run with two working Jet pumps...
 
decided to cure the cavitation first and while was waiting for the RTV and DEVCON cure I decided that if i just flipped the upper trim tab bracket around 180 it would give me the 5 degrees bow up that I wanted to let the nose rise... I had 5 degrees bow down in the setup as the 135's gained about 1-2 MPH on top in that config as it allowed continuous full throttle. i'll work on some other things and test tomorrow...

Impeller clearance is tight on a 0.015 feeler...

so the current config is the same 12/20 OEM impellers and solas stainless housings and 155mm HO pump housings... i'll have 100% thrust from the starboard pump now...

If this cures the low side and high side cavitation then I'll try 2 degree pump wedges, then the DF 15/22 would be next. I also found a set of intake grates and i may play with a pump loader if i cant get rid of the high side cavitation... more bow rise should open the jet intakes a tad as well...

attachment - 2023-01-07T141413.448.jpgattachment - 2023-01-07T141427.294.jpgattachment - 2023-01-07T141435.672.jpg
 
OK thunderBirds are GO !!!

The sea of tiny bubbles in the wine at idle is gone LOL the engine sounds like the port side now... im guessing that there was little or no load on the impeller and it was continuously sucking air I think when I switched to the 12/20's the 5200 let loose... so Im guessing this is gonna be sit down shut up and hold on day LOL

leavin the dock in 45 min...

attachment - 2023-01-08T120642.621.jpg
 
ok making progress... jumps on plane at 6000 cavitation is GONE....didn't do a top speed run as it was windy and 12-18" chop.... also trim tab difference was noticeable...
its faster... :wideyed:

I need to replace the starboard fuel pressure regulator... new filters and I can't hold 50 PSI with the regulator all the way in.. port holds 50 about half way through the adjustment and i can adjust it higher stbd has no adjustment left and its down to 47 PSI Summit Racing sending me a new one...

Im gonna hold off on the 15/22's till replace the regulator
 
cant go wrong... $40 for the pair that are in better shape than mine... and these are NLA from yamaha... interesting the F0K- part number... makes me think someone herein the states cast these little gems...

attachment - 2023-01-11T164818.609.jpg
 
Did away with the seat back cushions... makes a lot more room in the front of the boat and easier to keep clean.... getting ready to make these holes disappear... I cleaned them up and kerfed them with a step drill.. i need to back it with some gaff tape, then mask the front with blue tape and fill with Six10 structural epoxy, and l have a little room for a skim coat of West System and some white pigment... (Might get some custom sea deck but prolly not)
attachment - 2023-01-13T120233.251.jpgattachment - 2023-01-13T120239.071.jpgattachment - 2023-01-13T120244.092.jpgattachment - 2023-01-13T120250.625.jpg
attachment - 2023-01-14T141429.837.jpgattachment - 2023-01-14T141436.122.jpgattachment - 2023-01-14T141446.434.jpg
 
Last edited:
ok so I have a free day tomorrow... do what's my Boat todo List look like given the 60 ish temps...
  • Install WetSounds remote
  • finish WetSounds Head wiring and tidy up...
  • Install fuel pressure senders and gauges... (I'm in the hole hole any way and the wires need tidying up)
  • Hook up GPS Speedo Keep alive to house batteries (keeps the sat tracking warm for zero acquisition time on power up)
  • Remove Solar Panels... Not needed any more...
  • make final connections to fuel sender unit
  • cuff off filled holes and vacuum up dust... (too cold to finish fill and sand now)
  • replace console storage/fuel cell open air vent fittings (they are falling apart)
  • replace Aux Power Panel
  • run new audio cable to WetSounds from Garmin GPS unit to put SiriusXM on the Aux input...
 
ok so I have a free day tomorrow... do what's my Boat todo List look like given the 60 ish temps...
  • Install WetSounds remote
  • finish WetSounds Head wiring and tidy up...
  • Install fuel pressure senders and gauges... (I'm in the hole hole any way and the wires need tidying up)
  • Hook up GPS Speedo Keep alive to house batteries (keeps the sat tracking warm for zero acquisition time on power up)
  • Remove Solar Panels... Not needed any more...
  • make final connections to fuel sender unit
  • cuff off filled holes and vacuum up dust... (too cold to finish fill and sand now)
  • replace console storage/fuel cell open air vent fittings (they are falling apart)
  • replace Aux Power Panel
  • run new audio cable to WetSounds from Garmin GPS unit to put SiriusXM on the Aux input...

Any progress on that pesky fuel pressure regulator?
 
Any progress on that pesky fuel pressure regulator?
its here... I looked at it... LOL and I looked at the stainless fuel filters/water seps... not feelin it right at the moment..
 
its here... I looked at it... LOL and I looked at the stainless fuel filters/water seps... not feelin it right at the moment..
Replaced that Pesky fuel pressure regulator today and built new mounts for each one... I'll rebuild the faulty one tomorrow...
 
Ok so as long as the hatch was open and I was into the fuel system... I also took out the mini analog FP gauges and installed the SW senders and the SW stainless gauges.... also started on the N2K install... Im gonna ditch the faria fuel gauge as it is the wrong type for my ATL bladder tank sender. I just need order the correct Level sensor and I'll push it through the N2k display that will take its place...

ran outta daylight... I need to set the stbd fuel pressure

attachment - 2023-02-04T185859.291.jpgattachment - 2023-02-04T185906.263.jpgattachment - 2023-02-04T185913.017.jpgattachment - 2023-02-04T185920.973.jpgattachment - 2023-02-04T185927.451.jpgattachment - 2023-02-04T185933.860.jpgattachment - 2023-02-04T185940.298.jpg
 
the port engine has been running a little rough in the cooler weather on initial startup... and the RPM's are 200 RPMs low at idle... runs fine when warmed up and pulls 10,200 WFO...

so i plugged in YDS and warmed up the engines and ran through the diags... no codes saved, all the hours are between 6000-8000 RPM's and port engine drop cylinder test on #1 cylinder barely drops the RPM so that is the suspect...

68 hours on both engines since new... they seem happy... I was gonna swap the plugs at 100 HR's any way
 
200 or 2000 at idle?
 
Back
Top