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Rubber Boot on Shift Cable Failed

Seattle-Wind

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
62
Reaction score
106
Points
112
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
2019 AR190 - Directly above the jet pump there is cable, which I'm assuming is the shift cable. Where the cable connects to the boat there is a rubber boot. This boot on my boat has cracked and has now fallen off. Does this rubber boot stop water intrusion? I wet-slip the boat for the Summer each year.

Can someone kindly post the part number for this and a quick how-to to replace it? Can this be replaced without uninstalling the cable?

461516958_10101404615716070_3228666415689927953_n.jpg
 
Protector, Hose

F1T-U773J-00-00

$9.74
undo the end at the nozzle , remove the end and slide it on the cable then go put the end on and realize you forgot to mark the setting it was at lol count the threads after the lock nut so you get the correct setting when you return the end .
 
2019 AR190 - Directly above the jet pump there is cable, which I'm assuming is the shift cable. Where the cable connects to the boat there is a rubber boot. This boot on my boat has cracked and has now fallen off. Does this rubber boot stop water intrusion? I wet-slip the boat for the Summer each year.

Can someone kindly post the part number for this and a quick how-to to replace it? Can this be replaced without uninstalling the cable?

View attachment 229973
No that rubber piece doesn't stop water intrusion. And it is not available separately from the shift/reverse cable. I dont know why Jeff is referring to a steering cable protector, it doesn't apply to your issue.
Missing that rubber piece will most likely shorten the life of the cable. When you feel a bind or stiff shifting then replace it before it breaks
 
No that rubber piece doesn't stop water intrusion. And it is not available separately from the shift/reverse cable. I dont know why Jeff is referring to a steering cable protector, it doesn't apply to your issue.
Missing that rubber piece will most likely shorten the life of the cable. When you feel a bind or stiff shifting then replace it before it breaks
Thanks for the reply, Neutron. Do you have a suggestion for replacing the rubber boot without replacing the entire cable? Put clear silicone around it?
 
Thanks for the reply, Neutron. Do you have a suggestion for replacing the rubber boot without replacing the entire cable? Put clear silicone around it?
That section does not move in or out it just moves a little up and down slightly. If it were me i would use a silicone sealant that stays pretty flexible when cured
 
That section does not move in or out it just moves a little up and down slightly. If it were me i would use a silicone sealant that stays pretty flexible when cured

Just wondering aloud here.

Prep of the surface seems to always be the failure point, but silicone doesn't seem to adhere as well as other stuff, which seems to be why 4200 is a go-to for much of these types of things. I've used Quad OSI for exterior use, and that stuff never seems to have stiffened up, going on at least 3+ years that I can recall, and it sticks like crazy, even with the sketchy surfaces on the outside, like stucco, brick etc.

I'm not recommending it, just wondering about other things to consider. 4200 or Loctite Marine isn't as easy to source for some, and the 4200 seems to be the go-to, but it's a nightmare to deal with, both install and removal, unless you're wearing a Tyvek suit and coated in petroleum jelly or something 😆
 
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You might be able to source that part from teleflex. Another solution to extend its life might be to wrap it in self adhering silicone tape. Or some marine grade heat shrink tubing.


Heat shrink might be a very good option, didn't think of that. Dont use 4200 or 5200 because you want it to still be slightly movable. You would use that for the through hull area.
 
I’d think you’d be able to find something here that would work, may not be perfect but it would probably do the trick.


 
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Here's my solution. I used two different sizes of surgical tubing, aided by some grease and a couple of stainless clamps. I don't recall the exact ID's of the tubing I used, and don't have a means of measuring at the moment. The original boot deteriorated within the first year, this setup has been replaced annually when I lube the steering and bucket cables B/C i end up ripping them off to get access to the cable. IMG_0428.jpg
 
Thats a great solution! Surgical tubing will stretch and is very flexible…

What did you use to mark the bolts with? The red stuff.. to be able to take a quick visual if the bolts are tight?
 
That work around seal has been better than the original boot that came with the boat. As far as I know you have to buy the whole cable to get it. I did find what I thought to be a replacement, but it never fit correctly.

Its the cross check torque seal, there are a few other brands as well. Pick your color and purchase location, just make sure you get fresh stock.
 
That work around seal has been better than the original boot that came with the boat. As far as I know you have to buy the whole cable to get it. I did find what I thought to be a replacement, but it never fit correctly.

Its the cross check torque seal, there are a few other brands as well. Pick your color and purchase location, just make sure you get fresh stock.
Added to my cart! Thanks Man!
 
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