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Scarab/Chaparral/Glastron Rotax winter prep

ScarabMike

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Credit: Blog-SeaDoo


DO NOT FOG UNLESS BOAT WILL BE STORED FOR A MINIMUM OF 12 MONTHS!!!!

Owners who live in the northern climates are ready to send their watercraft into hibernation for the winter, not to be heard from again until the first blooms of spring arrive. Winterizing is a critical maintenance function to ensure your prized Rotax powered watercraft will be ready to go spring rolls around.

Even owners in the south may be working towards winterizing their watercraft, not necessarily for the same reasons, but to prepare it for storage during the cooler winter months of non-use.

Winterizing is about preventive maintenance and the steps needed for proper storage, and where and how you choose to store your watercraft will vary depending on temperature exposure, weather, duration of storage, etc. Non-use can be damaging if specific procedures and maintenance products are not used, leaving you on the shore next spring while the others are on the water. I recommend consulting your authorized Rotax/BRP dealer as they offer valuable advice and can assist in the maintenance of your jet boat.

Here are a few tips to help you in the process of winterizing your boat.

Dry it:
The biggest enemy of cold winters is water freezing where it isn’t supposed to be. Before you do anything, start your watercraft engine and give it several short bursts of power to blow out any excess water in the exhaust system. Do this until you don’t see any water existing the exhaust port, but not more than 20 seconds.

Soak it:
Another option to protect the exhaust system from freezing fluids is to run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water through the exhaust system via the flush system. Produce a two gallon mix of antifreeze and water in a five gallon bucket and using a hose or using a water pump or bilge pump attaché to the flush outlet and start the watercraft engine. Flush the system with the antifreeze mix and then shut the engine off when the mix has filtered through the exhaust system thoroughly and completely. The antifreeze should protect any fluids from freezing in the exhaust system.

Battery Care:
As you are prepare your Rotax watercraft for hibernation, pay special attention to your battery. Your battery is where it all starts (or doesn’t start) and batteries can and do lose their ability to maintain a charge over time and proper battery storage is essential.
Your jet boat's battery should be removed from your watercraft to ensure no draw of any kind is made on the battery during months of non-use. To keep your battery fresh and healthy I suggest an automatic battery charger be attached to the battery to maintain a full charge. Ensure the battery is place on a secure surface in an open-air location away from any flammable substances. If the battery is not showing a full charge after a day or two on the charger, ensure all connections are solid and if the battery still does not charge, it is time to replace the battery.

Fuel System Care:
Time is the enemy with fuels that are untreated. This procedure should be conducted in below freezing climates as well as any time the Rotax powered watercraft is going to be stored for an extended amount of time.
First, add a fuel stabilizer to the tank. The fuel stabilizer will help prevent fuel contamination and residue build up in carburetor, fuel injection system and gas lines. This stabilizer should always be used before storing your Rotax watercraft for a long period of time and is suitable for all gasoline engines. If you do not have a full tank, I recommend adding the stabilizer before you fill your tank, and we recommend to fill your tank with premium gasoline if possible.

To further ensure your fuel system will deliver fuel to the engine properly, check fuel hoses for leaks and loose or damaged hose clamps. If you smell fuel or worse yet see fuel in the bilge you will need to trace the source of the leak using your hands and/or fingers and replace worn or cracked fuel lines, clamps, or gaskets. Ensure you inspect your fuel cap and rubber gasket for cracks or leaks.

Winterizing is also the ideal time to check other normal wear items and possibly replace them if needed.

Drive Line:
Wear on the impeller and impeller wear ring can negatively affect the performance of your watercraft. Even if you avoid ingesting a large rock into the jet pump system, shells, sand, pebbles, and other debris can wear the edges of the impeller and/or grind away at the wear ring.

The wear ring is a plastic ring that encases the impeller and is intended to sacrifice itself when debris is ingested as it is much less expensive and easier to replace than the high-performance stainless steal impeller. If you feel the acceleration isn’t what it used to be on your Rotax watercraft a new wear ring can help return that legendary acceleration. The Rotax wear ring is made of a high density polymer material and the part number can be found in the Rotax 1503 Parts Catalog or contact your local dealer.

The impeller is what ultimately grabs the water and pushes you over it and even though it is produced a very high grade and hardened stainless steel. It is a finely tuned piece of the performance equation and a rock or other hard object can cause damage to the blades leading edge and rob performance. The impeller damage is usually easier to see than the wear ring as the leading edge is usually bent, chipped, torn. If the impeller is damaged a replacement is in order. If your impeller is damaged, consult your local dealer.

And finish by completing the jet pump maintenance with a fresh dose of XPS jet pump oil. The water jet pump put tremendous pressure on the drive line and it is important that all moving parts are properly lubricated including the jet pump and the impeller shaft.

Lubrication:
A fresh oil change with BRP's XPS 4-Stroke synthetic oil and fresh oil filter is recommended to again ensure that your jet boat will be ready to go as soon as you unwrap it for spring. XPS synthetic 4-stroke oil is specifically engineered to meet the particular lubrication requirements of jetboats/watercraft equipped with Rotax 4-TEC 4-stroke engines. And to finish the pre-storage care should always include a lubrication of all moving parts such as the steering nozzle pivot points and reverse/brake mechanisms with XPS Lube. It is also helpful to mist over the engine and electrical components with XPS Lube as it also displaces any left over water on components.

Fogging:
Unless the engine is to be stored for a minimum of 12 consecutive months, “fogging” the engine is not only unnecessary, it can be harmful to the combustion chamber and sensors. If it is to be laid up for longer than 12 months, a quarter ounce of two stroke oil down each spark plug hole and crank for a second is all thats necessary.
 
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Julian

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tomfoolery

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Thanks so much for the post. Living in the north the information is awesome.
 

ScarabMike

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@ScarabMike Curious why no fogging....does it foul the plugs? Saying no fogging unless its stored for 12 months....effectively means never fog for most people.
Its been an issue that has messed up Rotax engines. I have read on Green Hulk, and several Sea Doo blogs, and because of the 1503 engine management is so sensitive, it will trip sensors.

Remember, this engine block is completely sealed from the elements. It isnt exposed to some of the same environments/moisture as an open loop system.

I haven't tried this to check, but it looks like the ECM has a feature to oil the cylinders, and avoid corrosion.


Fogging:
Unless the engine is to be stored for a minimum of 12 consecutive months, “fogging” the engine is not only unnecessary, it can be harmful to the combustion chamber and sensors. If it is to be laid up for longer than 12 months, a quarter ounce of two stroke oil down each spark plug hole and crank for a second is all thats necessary.
 
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Scott B

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When winterizing and flushing the Scarab with antifreeze, is a pump required to pump antifreeze into flush connector? Or will the engine suck the antifreeze out of a bucket through a garden hose?
 

ScarabMike

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Use the same reservoir as the salt away. You dont need much, and it has to be diluted with water.
 

Bobby

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Hey mike I have a 215 hi impulse with the ballast system . U have any info on how to winterize it?? Thanks
 

ScarabMike

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@Bobby I have no clue. Ive never had a ballast system, but it should be like any other system in any boat.
 

BobJohnson

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" And finish by completing the jet pump maintenance with a fresh dose of XPS jet pump oil. The water jet pump put tremendous pressure on the drive line and it is important that all moving parts are properly lubricated including the jet pump and the impeller shaft."

I want to do the winterization on my Chaparral myself. Comfortable with oil/filter change. Can run engine to expel water from exhaust or do the antifreeze flush. But, the above Jet Pump Maintenance is a question. I don't recall in the video any jet pump oil being added, or I missed it. Is this a open a cap and pour in jet pump oil thing or do you apply jet pump oil to outside of parts of the pump?

I might be over thinking this. Just want to make sure I have everything right. @ScarabMike or anyone that can add clarification or more details to a newb like me on this would be great.
 
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GlastronDude

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@ScarabMike Curious why no fogging....does it foul the plugs? Saying no fogging unless its stored for 12 months....effectively means never fog for most people.
Thanks for all of the great info! I just called my Glastron dealer and they said that they will fog - should I push back on this? Sounds like I should based on potential damage to the plugs and engine issues?

Also - does anyone have experience or knowledge related to warranty voiding if a person does all of their own maintenance? Thanks to ScarabMike's posts, I'm thinking of handling the winterization myself but wanted to get some feedback on how that impacts the warranty.

FYI - 82 degrees here in the Twin Cities on Sunday - winterization will have to wait a week!
 

ScarabMike

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Fogging:
Unless the engine is to be stored for a minimum of 12 consecutive months, “fogging” the engine is not only unnecessary, it can be harmful to the combustion chamber and sensors. If it is to be laid up for longer than 12 months, a quarter ounce of two stroke oil down each spark plug hole and crank for a second is all thats necessary.
I would not fog. No need, and can harm the engine. But its your call.

Thanks for all of the great info! I just called my Glastron dealer and they said that they will fog - should I push back on this? Sounds like I should based on potential damage to the plugs and engine issues?

Also - does anyone have experience or knowledge related to warranty voiding if a person does all of their own maintenance? Thanks to ScarabMike's posts, I'm thinking of handling the winterization myself but wanted to get some feedback on how that impacts the warranty.

FYI - 82 degrees here in the Twin Cities on Sunday - winterization will have to wait a week!
 

GlastronDude

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I would not fog. No need, and can harm the engine. But its your call.
Getting close on my first DIY winterization. Have changed oil and filter and flushed with marine/RV antifreeze. One question I had was surrounding the intercooler drainage. When I read the manual, it states that the intercooler should be drained. Does the antifreeze flush take care of any issues that would be caused by not doing this? Didn't see it in the video posted by ScarabMike or a few others that I watched.

One other item - when I fire the engine out of the water, there's a loud high pitched squealing noise. Has anyone else encountered that? Wondering if maybe jet pump lubrication is not adequate....

Any input would be appreciated!
 

BobJohnson

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I did not have any high pitch squealing sounds when I ran my engines to blow out my exhaust water. Don't know near enough yet to comment on what the cause might be, so not completely helpful, but at least a little in that I didn't have the issue. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
 

TNMic

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Getting close on my first DIY winterization. Have changed oil and filter and flushed with marine/RV antifreeze. One question I had was surrounding the intercooler drainage. When I read the manual, it states that the intercooler should be drained. Does the antifreeze flush take care of any issues that would be caused by not doing this? Didn't see it in the video posted by ScarabMike or a few others that I watched.

One other item - when I fire the engine out of the water, there's a loud high pitched squealing noise. Has anyone else encountered that? Wondering if maybe jet pump lubrication is not adequate....

Any input would be appreciated!
GlastronDude - I was wondering if you ever got an answer regarding your intercooler question? I have the same question and am having a hard time finding an answer! Thanks for any help you might provide....
 

TNMic

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Credit: Blog-SeaDoo


DO NOT FOG UNLESS BOAT WILL BE STORED FOR A MINIMUM OF 12 MONTHS!!!!

Owners who live in the northern climates are ready to send their watercraft into hibernation for the winter, not to be heard from again until the first blooms of spring arrive. Winterizing is a critical maintenance function to ensure your prized Rotax powered watercraft will be ready to go spring rolls around.

Even owners in the south may be working towards winterizing their watercraft, not necessarily for the same reasons, but to prepare it for storage during the cooler winter months of non-use.

Winterizing is about preventive maintenance and the steps needed for proper storage, and where and how you choose to store your watercraft will vary depending on temperature exposure, weather, duration of storage, etc. Non-use can be damaging if specific procedures and maintenance products are not used, leaving you on the shore next spring while the others are on the water. I recommend consulting your authorized Rotax/BRP dealer as they offer valuable advice and can assist in the maintenance of your jet boat.

Here are a few tips to help you in the process of winterizing your boat.

Dry it:
The biggest enemy of cold winters is water freezing where it isn’t supposed to be. Before you do anything, start your watercraft engine and give it several short bursts of power to blow out any excess water in the exhaust system. Do this until you don’t see any water existing the exhaust port, but not more than 20 seconds.

Soak it:
Another option to protect the exhaust system from freezing fluids is to run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water through the exhaust system via the flush system. Produce a two gallon mix of antifreeze and water in a five gallon bucket and using a hose or using a water pump or bilge pump attaché to the flush outlet and start the watercraft engine. Flush the system with the antifreeze mix and then shut the engine off when the mix has filtered through the exhaust system thoroughly and completely. The antifreeze should protect any fluids from freezing in the exhaust system.

Battery Care:
As you are prepare your Rotax watercraft for hibernation, pay special attention to your battery. Your battery is where it all starts (or doesn’t start) and batteries can and do lose their ability to maintain a charge over time and proper battery storage is essential.
Your jet boat's battery should be removed from your watercraft to ensure no draw of any kind is made on the battery during months of non-use. To keep your battery fresh and healthy I suggest an automatic battery charger be attached to the battery to maintain a full charge. Ensure the battery is place on a secure surface in an open-air location away from any flammable substances. If the battery is not showing a full charge after a day or two on the charger, ensure all connections are solid and if the battery still does not charge, it is time to replace the battery.

Fuel System Care:
Time is the enemy with fuels that are untreated. This procedure should be conducted in below freezing climates as well as any time the Rotax powered watercraft is going to be stored for an extended amount of time.
First, add a fuel stabilizer to the tank. The fuel stabilizer will help prevent fuel contamination and residue build up in carburetor, fuel injection system and gas lines. This stabilizer should always be used before storing your Rotax watercraft for a long period of time and is suitable for all gasoline engines. If you do not have a full tank, I recommend adding the stabilizer before you fill your tank, and we recommend to fill your tank with premium gasoline if possible.

To further ensure your fuel system will deliver fuel to the engine properly, check fuel hoses for leaks and loose or damaged hose clamps. If you smell fuel or worse yet see fuel in the bilge you will need to trace the source of the leak using your hands and/or fingers and replace worn or cracked fuel lines, clamps, or gaskets. Ensure you inspect your fuel cap and rubber gasket for cracks or leaks.

Winterizing is also the ideal time to check other normal wear items and possibly replace them if needed.

Drive Line:
Wear on the impeller and impeller wear ring can negatively affect the performance of your watercraft. Even if you avoid ingesting a large rock into the jet pump system, shells, sand, pebbles, and other debris can wear the edges of the impeller and/or grind away at the wear ring.

The wear ring is a plastic ring that encases the impeller and is intended to sacrifice itself when debris is ingested as it is much less expensive and easier to replace than the high-performance stainless steal impeller. If you feel the acceleration isn’t what it used to be on your Rotax watercraft a new wear ring can help return that legendary acceleration. The Rotax wear ring is made of a high density polymer material and the part number can be found in the Rotax 1503 Parts Catalog or contact your local dealer.

The impeller is what ultimately grabs the water and pushes you over it and even though it is produced a very high grade and hardened stainless steel. It is a finely tuned piece of the performance equation and a rock or other hard object can cause damage to the blades leading edge and rob performance. The impeller damage is usually easier to see than the wear ring as the leading edge is usually bent, chipped, torn. If the impeller is damaged a replacement is in order. If your impeller is damaged, consult your local dealer.

And finish by completing the jet pump maintenance with a fresh dose of XPS jet pump oil. The water jet pump put tremendous pressure on the drive line and it is important that all moving parts are properly lubricated including the jet pump and the impeller shaft.

Lubrication:
A fresh oil change with BRP's XPS 4-Stroke synthetic oil and fresh oil filter is recommended to again ensure that your jet boat will be ready to go as soon as you unwrap it for spring. XPS synthetic 4-stroke oil is specifically engineered to meet the particular lubrication requirements of jetboats/watercraft equipped with Rotax 4-TEC 4-stroke engines. And to finish the pre-storage care should always include a lubrication of all moving parts such as the steering nozzle pivot points and reverse/brake mechanisms with XPS Lube. It is also helpful to mist over the engine and electrical components with XPS Lube as it also displaces any left over water on components.

Fogging:
Unless the engine is to be stored for a minimum of 12 consecutive months, “fogging” the engine is not only unnecessary, it can be harmful to the combustion chamber and sensors. If it is to be laid up for longer than 12 months, a quarter ounce of two stroke oil down each spark plug hole and crank for a second is all thats necessary.


ScarabMike - thanks a bunch for the info - good stuff. I wanted to ask a question that was asked below but it doesn't look like anyone responded. I've also heard the intercooler must be drained/protected during winterization. Does flushing through the flushing port with antifreeze take care of both the exhaust and intercooler? Please advise.
 

Ronnie0471

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Getting close on my first DIY winterization. Have changed oil and filter and flushed with marine/RV antifreeze. One question I had was surrounding the intercooler drainage. When I read the manual, it states that the intercooler should be drained. Does the antifreeze flush take care of any issues that would be caused by not doing this? Didn't see it in the video posted by ScarabMike or a few others that I watched.

One other item - when I fire the engine out of the water, there's a loud high pitched squealing noise. Has anyone else encountered that? Wondering if maybe jet pump lubrication is not adequate....

Any input would be appreciated!
I have 2016 215 hoi and I have heard the same squealing noise from only my port side motor while out of the water. I do all my own oil changes and general maintenance on my boat etc bc I feel no one takes care of yr things better than u would . I have mine at the dealer right now and they are resetting the maintenance log and checking into that squealing noise. My thought is that it's something to do with the jet pump being dried out ??? Who knows ? I'll let u know if they find an answer
 

Speed_Freak_039A

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Yes the inter-cooler is plumbed off the same hoses as the exhaust and does flush with antifreeze when you pump it into the garden hose port on the transome. I always run 5 gallons of Pink RV just to make sure it flushes the whole intercooler out. To each their own. Its cheap VS a exploded intercooler and water getting sucked into the engine if the core gets damaged inside.
 

Speed_Freak_039A

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Ive always fogged my rotex ski and never had a issue. I do usually pull the O2 sensor out when its first started in the spring to avoid the oil hitting it. Ill have to look into this. I swear people where rusting valves from not fogging it.

Also, from the factory the breather is ran back into the intake air stream so oil and whatever else makes it way out of their runs back into the engine anyways.

Further your not supposed to rev it up before you kill it to check the oil. Supposed to idle like 30 seconds.
 
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BobJohnson

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" And finish by completing the jet pump maintenance with a fresh dose of XPS jet pump oil. The water jet pump put tremendous pressure on the drive line and it is important that all moving parts are properly lubricated including the jet pump and the impeller shaft."

I want to do the winterization on my Chaparral myself. Comfortable with oil/filter change. Can run engine to expel water from exhaust or do the antifreeze flush. But, the above Jet Pump Maintenance is a question. I don't recall in the video any jet pump oil being added, or I missed it. Is this a open a cap and pour in jet pump oil thing or do you apply jet pump oil to outside of parts of the pump?

I might be over thinking this. Just want to make sure I have everything right. @ScarabMike or anyone that can add clarification or more details to a newb like me on this would be great.

Rereading this post, I still have this same question about jet pump oil and wher/how to apply.

Can anyone help with this??? @ScarabMike @JetTech72 ?
 

Speed_Freak_039A

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The pumps on our boats have grease. Pump oil was more on the older skis or 2 strokes that I have seen. Unless they went back to oil. It's pretty much maintenance free until you start hearing pump noises. Also when you rebuild the pump (I think they are rated about 100hrs) aka bearings it will all be clean and you can put lower gearbox oil for like outboards in it. We run it all the time in the skis. As far as scraping out as much grease as you can and using oil, I'm sure some have done it. Now when you switch to oil you can easily take the nose cone off and dump the oil and put fresh in every year.
 
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