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Shrill to Chill Warning Buzzer Mod with Instructions and Video

Mainah

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
3,016
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4,052
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Location
Chapin, SC
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
Limited S
Boat Length
24
So those with connext boats know all too well the shrill sound of the warning buzzer when they turn on their keys. The simple fix is to put tape over the buzzer. I did not like that idea as I want to be able to hear it at WOT with the stereo blaring and kids screaming in case a temperature, low oil, water depth or other alarm goes off.

My mod changes the constant shrill into a loud beep beep beep. I choose a programmable relay for this mod just as my push button start mod because it is cheap and I can easily adjust the beep and pause lengths. I also used the stock buzzer. Note that this is an easy mod and my install method is perhaps bit overkill as there are places to mount the relay board without have to make the separate board to mount it to. On to the photos, video, and instructions.

IMG_3593.JPG
IMG_3592.JPG

Warning Buzzer Mod.pdf
 

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Last edited:
@Mainah you are a god, give me your address and let me send you a gallon of beer!

As @96Pirate said, Yamaha are you taking note, get him on the payroll :D. Right @Mainah how about changing the connext screen to an iPad and completely redesigning the layout ;).
 
excellent job! adding it to the FAQ now,
 
Thanks guys :oops:. Just a guy who likes to make things work way he wants them to. Perhaps retirement will cure my OCD or make it worse. Long ways to go until then. In all seriousness this is pretty simple stuff but if someone has an in with Yamaha or one of the ECU modders out there I would love to get my hands on the white papers detailing the I/O and firmware/OS for the ECU and Connext screen. I could do some truly amazing stuff with that info. Like turning a non-connext boat into an e-series with touch screen for about $1,500 bucks. Patents would be a huge hurdle though and I doubt the OEM company behind Connext is going to to give away their white papers. Still if anyone has contacts please PM.
 
@ Julian I would be happy to consult on this or the push button start mod if someone wanted to offer up some kits. My issue is what my time is worth so if I were to do the work I would have to charge way too much. I would love to get into private consulting as long as does not conflict with my current field (financial strategies and modeling data). @JetBoatPilot or other direct to consumer retailer on this site .. if you are in need of a very part time electronics product solution developer/consultant I think I would enjoy it.:winkingthumbsup"
 
@ Julian I would be happy to consult on this or the push button start mod if someone wanted to offer up some kits. My issue is what my time is worth so if I were to do the work I would have to charge way too much. I would love to get into private consulting as long as does not conflict with my current field (financial strategies and modeling data). @JetBoatPilot or other direct to consumer retailer on this site .. if you are in need of a very part time electronics product solution developer/consultant I think I would enjoy it.:winkingthumbsup"
Seems like the only slightly hard part in this build is programming the relay.....if one were to buy 20 relays at once and had a 12V battery sitting there, how long would it take to program all 20 of them?
 
@Julian forgot to post the instructions for the relay on this thread. I will update in the am as I just had a great night grabbing dinner and a sunset cruise on the boat with my wife. What good are mods or a wife without taking time to enjoy them? ;)

Programming them is just a matter of cyclying through 4 options and entering the numbers with the 4 on board buttons. Between connecting the power supply wires and programmin only a few minutes each. Fabing the mounting boards and wiring for the boat is what takes more to do right.
 
@Mainah you are a god, give me your address and let me send you a gallon of beer!

As @96Pirate said, Yamaha are you taking note, get him on the payroll :D. Right @Mainah how about changing the connext screen to an iPad and completely redesigning the layout ;).

Brit you may be on to something there. Wouldn't it be nice if the connext was a tablet of some sort that you could take with you and update and download maps, applications etc... onto from your home.
 
Brit you may be on to something there. Wouldn't it be nice if the connext was a tablet of some sort that you could take with you and update and download maps, applications etc... onto from your home.
Uh oh @Mainah. The challenge is on!
 
Can you change it to a sexy woman's voice just saying "Hey babe, I got an itch only you can scratch"
 
@tocelli and @96Pirate .. if someone got me the software and communications protocol white papers then perhaps some things like that could be done with enough time and energy. Part of the reason things are how they are from the factory is because of the environment they have to operate in and intended lifespan.

@Zeus2013 - Not sure if you were just joking but that is an inventive idea so I am calling you on it. Here is the part you would need as well as a 12 volt to usb power supply and a speaker instead of the stock buzzer. Maybe a small board or t amp depending on how loud you want it.

www.amazon.com/ISD1820-Recorder-Playback-Module-Onboard/dp/B00W18QZ8K/ref=sr_1_41?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466539784&sr=1-41&keywords=sound+module


I am starting to think I should have gone with a multi channel i/o Arduino from the start and just added modules and updated the programming sketches as needed. Would have been able to control a whole bunch more and even used a smartphone or tablet to control those things as well. I can just imagine someone trying to figure that out down the road though.
 
@tocelli and @96Pirate .. if someone got me the software and communications protocol white papers then perhaps some things like that could be done with enough time and energy. Part of the reason things are how they are from the factory is because of the environment they have to operate in and intended lifespan.

@Zeus2013 - Not sure if you were just joking but that is an inventive idea so I am calling you on it. Here is the part you would need as well as a 12 volt to usb power supply and a speaker instead of the stock buzzer. Maybe a small board or t amp depending on how loud you want it.

www.amazon.com/ISD1820-Recorder-Playback-Module-Onboard/dp/B00W18QZ8K/ref=sr_1_41?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466539784&sr=1-41&keywords=sound+module


I am starting to think I should have gone with a multi channel i/o Arduino from the start and just added modules and updated the programming sketches as needed. Would have been able to control a whole bunch more and even used a smartphone or tablet to control those things as well. I can just imagine someone trying to figure that out down the road though.

Why not? it should be able to be done. I was thinking more like the model trains that have the built in sounds on the DCC systems.
 
OK.....this mod is in my future....if (when) I build one....probably not that much more work to build 3 or 4.

@Mainah some questions for you:
  1. where was the stock speaker mounted? Seems you moved it....was is just behind the dash somewhere?
  2. Does mounting it where you put it, quieten down the speaker a lot?
  3. I assume the speaker could be left in its original location if one wanted to?
  4. From your wiring diagram....this is simply connected to the two lines originally wired to the speaker?
  5. Where did you source the small board from?
  6. Hopefully you won't mind me asking more questions when I get around to this mod?
 
@Julian and @spaz1868. Stock speaker is behind dash connected directly by wires to the wiring harness with a zip tie holding it on. You will need to cut the shrink tubing to expose the screw terminals on the back of the speaker. Not much wire there so probally easier just to mount everything to something else that can be worked on outside of the boat and leave two wires with .187 female spades to connect back to the factory harness (will fit back over the screw studs on the wire in the harness).

Yes just those two wires. It receives +12vdc to trigger the sound so with this design and wiring method there is no vampire draw for the relay.

It is a piezo buzzer so anywhere in the helm with enough air space will be fine. If you want it quieter just shorten the beep pulse timing and it will be perceived to be quieter.

Links for the parts are on my pdf attachment at the start of the thread. Ask away and I will answer as I can. Part of the fun is figuring it out though :winkingthumbsup"
 
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