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Sound Proofing

Gym

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You might want to check on the fire rating of the product before installing it in the engine compartment.
 

Ronnie

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I just ordered 17' linear feet (enough to do the entire engine compartment and fuel tank compartment) of the heavy duty heat reflecting sound absorption material with adhesive backing from McMaster Carr. 1" thick, with 60% sound absorbtion and an operating range of -40 to 175 degrees.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-dampers/=rbv9i7
 

Norboo

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Got it at Home Depot today. Plan on using it this Sunday.


3M 90 works much better on foil and foam. It seems to bond really well but time will tell. Very easy to work with.
Thanks Jim!
 

Julian

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I just ordered 17' linear feet (enough to do the entire engine compartment and fuel tank compartment) of the heavy duty heat reflecting sound absorption material with adhesive backing from McMaster Carr. 1" thick, with 60% sound absorbtion and an operating range of -40 to 175 degrees.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-dampers/=rbv9i7
Ronnie, I'll be watching for updates from you on how this works for ya! And Photos!
 

Jim Robeson

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KXCam22

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With the 3M 90 try using some pieces of cardboard to mask off the overspray area. It is very sticky and the overspray is a pain. Blocking it with a scrap of cardboard while spraying will save lots of cleanup time. Cam.
 

Trevor Shipman

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So has anyone ever removed the fuel tank? Wonder how much there is underneath to use some peel and stick on all exposed areas of the hull? Maybe even peel and stick the fuel tank itself too?

There are just so many mixed results out there on this type of project. A bit frustrating.
 

billyb

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So has anyone ever removed the fuel tank? Wonder how much there is underneath to use some peel and stick on all exposed areas of the hull? Maybe even peel and stick the fuel tank itself too?

There are just so many mixed results out there on this type of project. A bit frustrating.
I only did the fuel tank lid. And while I used a free iPhone app to measure my 2db sound deading, it sure sounds a lot quieter.

I would start with that as it's the easiest to do and see how much it helps.
 

njmr2fan

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I still believe that the empty cavernous swim platform where the exhaust lives is a huge reservoir of noise. Thats the first place i'm going to attack when I do my sound deadening. The sound energy you generate in there from 8000 RPM running through your exhaust reverberates forward through all the stiff fiberglass structures. I think it makes your boat the speaker for all that noise.
 
Last edited:

swatski

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I still believe that the empty cavernous swim platform where the exhaust lives is a huge reservoir of noise. Thats the first place i'm going to attack when I do my sound deadening. The sound energy you generate in there from 8000 RPM running through your exhaust reverberates forward through all the stiff fiberglass structures. I think it makes your boat the speaker for all that noise.
Also, check out @dan144k water box sound insulation. I did mine half-a$$ compared to his and it still makes a difference. Getting these beasts out, and then back in, is a major pain thouhgh.
 

dan144k

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njmr2fan

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Jgorm

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Good info. I've done a lot of automotive sound proofing. After spending $1000s on dynamat and other brands, I make my own now. This west marine engine stuff is the bomb! It would work perfect in this application. I did my rv with it to quiet down the 7.3 PSD. http://www.joegorm.com/soundproofing_the_cab_and_doghouse.htm
This was before I knew about Jiffy seal. I did a C3500 100%. Doors, floor, walls, ceiling, etc. Too much $$$

 
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