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Sound Reduction---FatMat.

BigN8

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
2,663
Reaction score
5,990
Points
397
Location
Corinth, TX
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
How do you think this will work on engin hatch, my factory insulation is coming off like dry rotting. I would def do the 80 mil. that should stop more sound just looks so thin wonder how it works.
 
My general rule of thumb is the absorbing material should be 1/2 inch to 1 inch thick. If sound absorbent foam is used, a mylar covering will make it easy to clean and has almost no affect on its sound absorption. Some foams also include a sound barrier layer. These foams are much more expensive and heavy but can help in cases where the wall or hatch material is allowing significant amounts of noise to pass through it.

I'm a big fan of www.soundown.com
 
I used fatmat megamat on my current and last boat on both fuel tank and engine hatch. On my 240 I also,did the ski locker. It makes a big difference with resonance and allows conversations and better stereo sound at speed. Both times I removed the engine hatch insulation and then put on the megamat and spray adhesived the hatch insulation back on.

I highly recommend this product and it is cheaper than dynamat.
 
My son competes in Sound Quality competitions and was a state and regional winner for 2013. I asked him what to put in and he brought me some material that was foil covered with a couple thin layers of material that resembled road tar. It was only about 1/4" thick and had a peel and stick backing. Went on fast and easy. We did the ski locker and fuel tank cover first and on the engine cover we removed the factory foam, applied the new material then replaced the factory foam. When we took it out I could immediately tell the improvement. Especially at cruise where conversations were much easier and that's what I was looking for. I will contact him and ask him what the material was and post it back on this thread. I think the whole install was less than an hour.
 
Hey Julian.. Surprised me too! He took a rough measurement of each hatch door, cleaned them well and pealed the backing and pressed them on. Just took a few minutes. He said that a misconception on soundproof material is that you need to fill every gap. It wasn't important to make an exact template that covers every single spot. 90% coverage is plenty. He showed me lab tests to that effect. The factory engine material peeled off easily (was only a few months old). Then we just cut pieces and stuck on, again just looking for about 90% coverage on the engine hatch. We didn't go in and try to cover areas in the engine compartment walls. Just the hatch that lifts up. We then sprayed 3m adhesive on the new material to re-attach the factory foam. I was expecting to be on it most of the morning. Glad we didn't have to, so we had more time to play! You can check it out when we see you this summer..
 
Thanks guys. I think I am going to give it a try before this summer and the heat gets crazy. I'm going to go with the 80 mil FatMat. I'll let you know how mine turns out.
 
I did my fuel tank cover and ski locker hatch with Fatmat megamat and although it did help with resonance and made for a more pleasant sound I can't say I noticed much in the way of noise reduction. My guess is much of the sound reduction comes from doing the engine hatch. Will give that a go this spring.
 
Hi 10-8
Did you ever find out which material your son used?
 
They have a neat website. Advertise a lot wire and stereo items, maybe a source for ordering amp wiring?
 
I removed and reinstalled the engine hatch gasket this weekend and also put an additional gasket around the fuel hatch door and the ski locker. I was surprised that it did quiet it down a bit inside the cockpit. It cost about 60 bucks and took an hour to do. It was worth it to me imo.
 
@10-8 Wow....under and hour! I'll have to stop by on the way to Shelbyville for the 10-8 soundproofing service!!!

It would be interesting to see if the MR-1 boats see the same improvement with the same product. 10-8 is running one of the newer boats.

After years of watching these threads (and to be honest, being too cheap to do anything like this) I've been under the impression that due to the different speeds the engines run, it may be two different "sound battles" being fought.

I'm a few mods away from spending cash on this yet but I'm interested to see if someone comes up with something definitive for the older boats. As always, cheaper is good! :)
 
Thanks guys. I think I am going to give it a try before this summer and the heat gets crazy. I'm going to go with the 80 mil FatMat. I'll let you know how mine turns out.
Did you ever get around to this? If so, was it worth it?
 
can you still buy anything like the factory foam, I read a lot of people saved their factory foam and re-installed it, my foam is shot, falls off if you look at it wrong, I gotta change it very soon.
 
Also do you think the Knu Koncepts Kno Knoise sound mat can take the temperature under the engine hatch, it say 135 max not sure how hot it is under there.
 
On my boat the biggest improvement came from sealing the gap around the engine hatch. I put a video camera on top of the engine and closed the hatch. I could see lots of light. Especially at the corners. I tried a "D" shaped rubber gasket but it was not thick enough to fill the gap. I think 3/4" rubber foam pipe insulation may be the best option.
 
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