Okay Gents (and Ladies),
Let me start off by saying that I apologize form dropping in and out of the forum for many months on end. I was especially disappointed to read that Mel
@txav8r had to abandon his Lake Powell dream last year due to a series of unfortunate mechanical events with his at the time new to him motorhome. Don't give up!!! It sounds like you were getting the bugs all shaken out and I know it will bring you many years of joy.
Now, onto the matter at hand...fishing.
I have been busy since the OP further tweaking and upgrading, and will share the newer pics.
first: I realized I needed a more substantial fishfinder in a more suitable mount location than the pictures above. I also needed chartplotting capability since I was navigating on major waterways (straits of Juan D Fuca) and honestly massive reservoirs like Lake Powell and Flaming Gorge. There was a raging good deal on a now legacy humminbird finder, the 788 ci xd with a 50khz and 200 khz transducer. this gives pretty extreme depths. More importantly, I knew this unit had ethernet and gps on board with two sd card slots, and was prepared to accept the minn-kota i-pilot link system which allowed me to expand to a fully GPS autopilot enabled electrical trolling motor. I bought a navionics card for it so that I could get whatever downloadable charts I wanted. I bought a RAM mount made for the unit and mounted it in the usual location. not the best pic...but here you go...
Because I had been caught in more squalls than I could count, and wanted to occassionally overnight in the boat, I had a camping enclosure made that still allowed access to the back deck and downriggers without interfering with the riggers when mounted. I had it done at Sugarhouse Awning in Salt Lake City which has done it for numerous other members. here are some views of the boat in the Marina with the enclosure, rigged to fish and crab...
I am now much warmer and not windblown. A bow cover is nice in the ocean because if there is some chop, it helps prevent water from getting onboard .. note my crab pots stacked on the dock near the stern
speaking of crab... A little dunngeness....
In that last picture with the crab, you can barely make out the ends of the booms of my downriggers rotated back 90 degrees so I can dock. The reddish string you see on my booms are a homemade ball retreiver system so I didn't have to lean out over the gunwales every time I wanted to reset the rigger clip. Anyway, back to some more interesting pics..
It will be hard to see this, but I grew a little weary of my former downrigger mounts. As mentioned in the original post, I used to have the riggers attached to a gimbal mount that I then inserted into the rod holders on the back. Although this worked okay, it bugged me that I could never get the angles of my boom perfectly level with the water and also exactly perpendicul;ar to the boat when desired. SO...I found this cool product called APOXIE SCULPT which is normally sold to artists as a sculpting clay. Here is the rub... it is actually just bulk 2 part epoxy so it is strong as all get out when cured, waterproof, sandable, drillable, etc. I bought 4 lbs of the stuff to mold a downrigger bracket pedestal around the weird curvy lines of the back gunnels. I promise to post a better pic when I can, but look at the picture below, squint, and maybe you can see how I molded a super-strong mount that adapted to the curves of the boat so I could flush mount the downrigger bracket. Its bulletproof! This is much more stable and puts a lot less stress on the fiberglass. I am using 15 lb balls on the end of 4 foot downrigger booms....you can imagine the leverage and stress the gimbal mount used to impart to the glass, now completely relieved by this more custom solution
The epoxy is the gray looking stuff just under the downrigger, hand molded...
For those interested, I drilled holes through the epoxy when cured, and used burly 316 stainless steel bolts with aggressive threads and screwed it into the boat. 3 weeks of fishing on it and it is solid!
okay... here is why all this is worth it...
This is what I am looking at when fishing British Columbia...I took this from the boat....
A nice pod of Orcas to my port side...
And the reason for all the trouble and expense...King Salmon anyone?
Here is a pic of "stacked" rods on my starboard rigger...you can get 4 rods fishing on two riggers....but honestly, I have abandoned stacking the rods....too much trouble when you get hit. By the way, these are pretty small standing waves....caused by big tidal flows on rocky tructure under me...
The usual fishing position...
And now the fun part....a few pics of my trolling motor install.
There are several threads on various forums where people have mounted trolling motors. Others have validated that an 80lb thrust 24 volt system is sufficient for the sx230, although I struggled with upsizing to 112 lb thrust. I purchased a Minn-Kota Terrova Riptide 80- lb with 60 inch shaft and ipilot link. this ethernet connects right to my chartplotter so you can use it as a virtual anchor to hold in place, you can troll back and forth along a track, set a cruise control speed, or automatically follow a depth contour. pretty snazzy and pretty pricey. I was all set to put a puck-style removable mount adjacent to the anchor locker when my dear wife informed me that I had to come up with a system that was totally removable and invisible when not mounted. Sheesh! that made it really hard, but since she didn't balk at me spending a boat load of money on this new toy and was a good sport, I wanted to honor her request. It took awhile to come up with the solution but here it is:
Okay... let me explain. i had previously installed some 30 degree rod-holders at the front of the boat. Since I had recreated downrigger mounts on the stern, I had my heavy guage aluminum gimbal mount downrigger holders lying around. I reinforced the rod holder mount by replacing the previous mounting screws for the rod holders with some heavy SS bolts backed up with some custom machined SS washers under the fiberglass to try to distribute the lever forces and torque when mounted. I drilled custom holes in the face of the gimbal mount to accomodate the quick release puck style downrigger bracket and bolted the puck to the gimbal mount. seen here:
here is the minn-kota rta-17 puck mount:
a reminder of what the gimbal mount that fits into the rodholder looks like:
I then mounted some SS eye bolts through the foreward end of the aluminum baseplate on the trolling motor and ran a stainless steel bolt through those eyebolts to serve as a receiver for the eyebbolts on the SS turnbuckles you see there.
the pic above is an earlier adaptation where I put some heavy duty SS shackles around the cleat pins, which I ran through into the opposite end of the turnbuckle eye bolts. I have since abandoned the shackles and replaced the lower eyebolts" on the turnbuckle with a "jaw end" style fitting so I can attach directly to the cleat without using shackles. virtually all the weight and torque forces are transferred to the cleat, and the gimbal mount basically serves to stabilize the system and level it.
this is what I purchased to get two "JAW ends"...but you need a 3 or 4 inch turnbuckle....6 inches is too big. this is for illustrative purposes what a JAW end is... i broke apart this unit, cut the bolts shorter to fit into my 4 inch turnbuckles, and used eyebolts on the other sides of the buckles. all stainless steel.
It is VERY STRONG AND VERY STABLE. the majority of the force on the unit is directed down the turnbuckles onto the cleat, so you can imagine that if a cleat can hold a 4000lb boat loaded, it can hold my trolling motor. You can remove the motor from the gimbal, and remove the gimbal from the rod-holder. you simple open the jaw end of the turnbuckle, and everything comes off the boat and stores in the floor locker.
I bought 2, 110Amp Hour AGM batteries to power the thing and a three bank charger.
a rundown of most of the parts:
more to come...
JT