The official "What did you do to your jet boat today" thread.

[Inthrustwetrust]

Looks like you used the Rockville amp kit, may have to DM you with a couple of questions.

Go for it, I did use the amp kit for my original install 2 years ago, I did reuse the positive/negative cables, remote wire, RCAs, and inline fuse, as they were still in good shape. the speaker cable was garbage though, I think it was 20 gauge, and not tinned copper, salt water corroded it pretty bad, I think I had to cut a couple inches off it 2 or 3 times over the last 2 years it was so bad. I put proper cables in this time.

 

[1BadTundra]

More seadek (I think I have it all now) and fastened down some wiring after "fixing" the DVSR

 

[1WetBoat]

Im back with more!

pissers are in. I tell you what. On a 252 these bastards are hard to get to.
View attachment 171691
We got the 2” hole with the screws for the No in no problem! Much easier and less scary once it was in motion.

I cant quite tell where that is, looks like behind the co-captains chair?

 

[1BadTundra]

No pics, but did the drive cone grease swap. No water in the grease, fingered out all the old yellow waxy looking grease. Pumped Lucas Marine into the bearings, filled the cones 90% up with a 70/30 mix of Lucas Marine grease, and Lucas Synthetic Marine Gear Lube. Impellers were pristine, wear rings perfect. Removed the intermediate bearing zerk fitting and injected gear lube into the hole until it overflowed, then put the zerk back in. put new inserts into the steering knuckles when reassembled.
When we would run just one drive, the boat would move, but felt like it cavitated. So when reassembling, I cleaned all the mating surfaces with a Scotchbrite pad, and used Permatex 51813 Anaerobic flange sealant. I'm hoping to feel a difference.

 

[swatski]

Permatex 51813 Anaerobic flange sealant.

I'm sure it will help but likely won't last very long. Even 5200 doesn't.

 

[steveinmd]

Changed out the dealer provided navy style anchor to a much lighter fortress fluke style.

 

[Farny]

I love this. Most aren't even aware that you should even grease the ball/coupler. I grease mine a few times a season.

Duh - I’m one of those idiots- just use marine grease?

 

[Farny]

Changed out the dealer provided navy style anchor to a much lighter fortress fluke style.

Hey at least your dealer provided one ?

 

[steveinmd]

Hey at least your dealer provided one ?

Worked great, just heavy and I was concerned about the future fiberglass/gel coat repair from my lovely first mate/wife. Hopefully she can handle this one better

 

[Crob83]

Duh - I’m one of those idiots- just use marine grease?

Me too. Had no clue, mine is rusted all to hell as usual

 

[AZMark]

Almost done with my annual pump maintenance, I was very happy to find no traces of water in the main bearings, either side.
I run with L13 cones, and they are solid.
I topped off the grease with some gear oil, and put them back together.

View attachment 174374

View attachment 174375

Retouched a couple spots in the pump tunnel with 5200, should be good for first half the season.
Wanted to finish cleaning the pumps but then - it started snowing...
View attachment 174376

Is this normal maintenance that should be done?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Is this normal maintenance that should be done?

adding gear oil will definitely increase the life of your pump bearings and if you add it to your intermediate bearings they will last a long time as long as you don't pump any grease in the housing.

 

[swatski]

Is this normal maintenance that should be done?

I hesitate to say, it is a kind of a "yes and no" situation, depends on usage/storage/hours.
And risk tolerance, lol.

In general, water intrusion into the main bearing compartment, particularly salt water, leads to quick disintegration of the bearing, and can cause complete failure in 1.8 motors as there is no gear reduction, it's basically a coupler linking propeller/pump shaft to crankshaft...

My first yammie (a 2012 sx190) had evidence of some water intrusion at two years... It was a factory cone that I was replacing with the L13, and there was a tiny bit of water and factory grease was a tad cloudy. No damage to bearings, and completely smooth impeller/shaft rotation with no play. I'm sure I could had gone another year or two without serious problems but who knows, I was glad I caught it. It was fresh water only boat at that point, lived on a lift.

Last season, my boat (2016) was not on a lift but wet slipped - for most of the season, plus I take it in brackish and salt water occasionally. So, seeing no water at first inspection in about two years, w/one full boating season, I was relieved.

Normally, I would replace grease (partially with grease and gear lub) and put new o-rings every time when doing this inspection, except this time I could not find my o-rings, so I left the old ones in place, probably okay. BTW - It is critical not to pinch those o-rings, which is easy to do (talk about maintenance-induced failure).

Another advantage of doing it annually, I find, is that it moves all the bolts and pump segment surfaces so they are not stuck. I tend to grease everything when I put it back together, including pump segments. I also spray the heck out of the pumps and linkages whenever the boat is on the trailer, either CRC-656 or. more recently a mix of CRC-656 and Corrosion X. Seems to keep things from getting stuck up.

--

 

[deubank1776]

I cant quite tell where that is, looks like behind the co-captains chair?

Yes sir. That is behind the co captains chair.

 

[AZMark]

Spent most of my weekend working on the boat!

1) Installed my new ridesteady gps and took it for a test drive with my 12 year old son. The throttle sync is such an improvement already.

2) While we were out, got him his first few reps approaching the dock and docking maneuvers. The kid is a natural, has a good feel for it already. I want him comfortable with basic maneuvers so he can be at the helm for loading and unloading since I’m going to stop power loading Because:

3) finally brought myself to look closely at & clean up the bow stop area where I put an ugly scratch last fall. The combination of power loading and frankly the stoltz roller being pretty thin let the flange of the roller mount contact the hull. Based on that, I’m done power loading and unloading. Started a ramp new routine.


View attachment 172887

4) cleaned boat top to bottom. Dawn, acetone, all purpose cleaner. Waxed the hull, 303 on the vinyl, vaccumed all the storage areas. A clean and shiny boat is so satisfying
View attachment 172900

5) adjusted my reverse buckets to stop the forward creep in neutral

6) greased trailer hubs, cleaned and regreased trailer ball

7) reorganized all my gear

Maybe you already got it cleaned up but I had those same yellow scuff marks on my bow and they came off with denatured alcohol and elbow grease. Hopefully that’s not bare fiberglass in your pic.

Made my bow look slightly less like shit from the rollers and hitting the dock a couple times.

 

[CarolinaJet]

Maybe you already got it cleaned up but I had those same yellow scuff marks on my bow and they came off with denatured alcohol and elbow grease. Hopefully that’s not bare fiberglass in your pic.

Made my bow look slightly less like shit from the rollers and hitting the dock a couple times.

I used acetone, worked great and needed very little elbow grease! Cleaned up all the yellow anyway.

 

[1BadTundra]

I'm sure it will help but likely won't last very long. Even 5200 doesn't.

What do you mean? Will it wash out?

 

[swatski]

What do you mean? Will it wash out?

No, it just peels or flakes off, at least that's been my experience.
I used a combination of Marine Tex epoxy and fiberglassed-bondo which needed to be honed and that has held remarkably well - for the most part. Few small cracks that reappeared now (after almost three years) - I just sealed with 5200.
I plan an overhaul some time this year, when I have some time, I plan to redo the bondo and cover with a special epoxy-based industrial pump paint ready.

 

[swatski]

Here is another maintenance item I just discovered in my 2016 yammie - never really looked under my seats, but when I did - there is visible corrosion on the frame and the springs, both sides - captain and passenger:



For now, I just treated with CRC-656 Heavy Duty, will assess at the end of the season, but not sure what else can be done other than disassemble and reupholster which I'm not ready for:

 

[suke]

Here is another maintenance item I just discovered in my 2016 yammie - never really looked under my seats, but when I did - there is visible corrosion on the frame and the springs, both sides - captain and passenger:
View attachment 174671
View attachment 174672

For now, I just treated with CRC-656 Heavy Duty, will assess at the end of the season, but not sure what else can be done other than disassemble and reupholster which I'm not ready for:
View attachment 174673
View attachment 174674
View attachment 174675

Could you not lightly sand it and brush on some rust inhibitor/converter like POR15?