The official "What did you do to your jet boat today" thread.

[swatski]

Could you not lightly sand it and brush on some rust inhibitor/converter like POR15?

Edit: No.
The CRC Heavy Duty is not pretty, I'll give you that, literally $hit brown, it clings and sticks as it does not completely dry.
The stuff is pretty good, I use it on my trailer brakes and parts, too. No rust there.

--

 

[drewkaree]

No, it just peels or flakes off, at least that's been my experience.
I used a combination of Marine Tex epoxy and fiberglassed-bondo which needed to be honed and that has held remarkably well - for the most part. Few small cracks that reappeared now (after almost three years) - I just sealed with 5200.
I plan an overhaul some time this year, when I have some time, I plan to redo the bondo and cover with a special epoxy-based industrial pump paint ready.

I might be mistaken here, but if I'm not, I'm REALLY lost here. I think you're referring to your tunnel, when you did all that work to it to smooth it out and help with cavitation or something I can't recall right now. Is that the case? Or did you really use 5200/Bondo/Marine Tex to seal the cones when you put everything back together?

Somehow I think I got lost, or I'm missing something. Want to hash it out before spring hits, and I can contemplate working on my boat.

I might also have some homework to do before that time too! LOL

 

[swatski]

Or did you really use 5200/Bondo/Marine Tex to seal the cones when you put everything back together?

OMG - no. Absolutely no 5200 on the cone! Thank you for clarifying, I might have been unclear.
bondo/epoxy treatment is for the tunnel sealing - I would consider permanent. A scenario where the tunnel (and the "shoe-shaped base") would need to come apart is vanishingly unlikely, short of some major structural damage.

 

[1BadTundra]

I was referring to the Permatex 51813 on the mating surfaces when reassembling the drive. The cone to the impeller housing, and jet pump assembly back together... then we get into talk about Bondo, 5200 etc... This is a real head scratcher.

 

[swatski]

I was referring to the Permatex 51813 on the mating surfaces when reassembling the drive. The cone to the impeller housing, and jet pump assembly back together... then we get into talk about Bondo, 5200 etc... This is a real head scratcher.

Bondo, 5200, etc. - that goes inside the tunnel only in my book (that is - the low pressure side of the pump) - between the intake grates at the bottom of the hull and the transom plate/impeller housing segment. There is no sealant too strong for that. Sealing those gaps prevents air from entering the tunnel and the pump from the bilge, and prevents cavitation (and cavitation burns) and massively improves performance.

Everything on the outside of the transom gets grease of RV silicon or Permatex or similar so the segments (impeller housing, stator, venturi) can be disassembled and do not get stuck together and cemented with aluminum oxide deposits.

 

[1WetBoat]

Yes sir. That is behind the co captains chair.

Cool, thanks. Im still trying to find a spot on mine, wanted it outside the boat, near the stern, inside , cant decide the best spot for it.

 

[deubank1776]

Cool, thanks. Im still trying to find a spot on mine, wanted it outside the boat, near the stern, inside , cant decide the best spot for it.

Yeah that is tough. I'm not gonna lie. I would put it on the inside of the boat. Keeps it dry and you can just feed the cord through the gap in the windshield.

 

[steveinmd]

Just got my new babz fender. I thought i ordered a gray one but they sent me a clear one. Trying to find the valve so I can fill it and see how big it is. Feels kinda smallish, largish, medium, deflated.

 

[Ericd]

Bilge hatch spacer DIYView attachment 171785

Looks great. What material did you use?

 

[yall_mahaw]

After getting a feel for her without any steering aids, tonight the fins went on. Taking her to the lake for a sunset shakedown cruise this evening.

 

[OCMD]

Returned to my Ocean City home after a 6 month absence. Took the cover of the boat. Started the engines. Fired right up after siiting since last October. Gotta' love these Yamahas!.

 

[steveinmd]

Just got my new babz fender. I thought i ordered a gray one but they sent me a clear one. Trying to find the valve so I can fill it and see how big it is. Feels kinda smallish, largish, medium, deflated.

My fender is sitting on the porch of an unidentified neighbor. Thanks Amazon for the April fool's joke. Jerks

 

[1BadTundra]

Looks great. What material did you use?

HDPE Plastic... Cutting Board. Doubled them up.

 

[Shack]

I’ve been working on a few things this week. Changed out the anchor locker drain, put a check valve in under the clean out hatch, used some spray adhesive to hopefully keep the foam in place under the hatch.I also got my riser installed. I used a 1” cutting board. I shaved down my stoltz roller. I didn’t like how it only touched the outside ears. Used a band saw and drum sander to get a better angle on it. It’s not perfect but much more surface area will be touching once it is winched down.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Put up the Fishing Rod Holders.

 

[WaTeRMaNiaC407]

Added some SeaDek to the boat over the weekend! Don’t mind the leaves, it is raining live oak leaves hereView attachment 174410View attachment 174411View attachment 174412View attachment 174413

I want to do exactly this for my 2021 212XD. How did you order through Sea Dek? Just tell them your model number? Was there a name for the extra pieces that you ordered? It looks fantastic!! Also, How much did that set cost?

 

[steveinmd]

Amazon replaced the babz fender that was misshipped. Have the molding goop to clean off. Quality seems good. We'll see how they fit with my boat.

 

[RobbieO]

Pulled her out of storage and brought her home. Going to change out the access hatch drain fitting from plastic to stainless. Hopefully the upper and lower. Also installing an inline check valve in the drain hose. Shout out to @drewkaree for spending more of my money.

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

Rev 10s put put on the tower Thursday, not pictured, snuck out of work after lunch yesterday and did a full buff/wax of the exterior above the waterline, interior and bottom are now on the to do list, and I replaced the starboard side graphics, they had some dock rash. Our launch/dock/courtesy slip is pretty damaged from age/hurricanes. Discovered some of rash got through to the gel, no fiberglass damage, for now just covered with the graphic, but when these get beat up or I decide to go naked that will have to get fixed. 3rd summer, finically got a new bow roller in the mail, but some gel damage there to fix. Anyone have a recommendation for a bow protector where that damage is? Some of that is actually from the courtesy slips, when the tide is high and a wave comes through the bow hit the dock, and the boat is just to long for the slip to tie it back from going forward. Only park in the slip to park the truck/trailer and load the family/friends but it’s enough time for some damage.

 

[yall_mahaw]

I want to do exactly this for my 2021 212XD. How did you order through Sea Dek? Just tell them your model number? Was there a name for the extra pieces that you ordered? It looks fantastic!! Also, How much did that set cost?

Thanks! I ordered the SeaDek pieces from Jet Boat Pilot right before they announced that they were switching suppliers. They are offering very similar options now in Marine Mat, which is the OEM supplier for Yamaha. Check out their site, although I’m not sure they have all of the kits listed as the change over was at the beginning of the month, but they have top down drawings of the boats with all of the pieces labeled. The set in the pictures ran me about $345.