Time to spruce up the MFI Trailer for my AR240HO..

[prorider17]

Hi all, I've come to realize I need to put some energy into getting my 2011 MFI galvanized trailer back to 100%. I'm starting to source everything to do the job, but could use some help in regards to attaining the best information!

What I need -

• New bunks: From my knowledge, I need 2x6x10's as the main bunks. What wood is recommended I've read that spruce/cypress are good and pressure treated isn't?
• Lag bolts for bunks: What size lag bolts does everyone use? I'm thinking 1.5" length
• U-bolts for axle/leaf spring: What length do they need to be? I know they have to be the 'rounded' ones.

I'm planning on calling MFI tomorrow to get some answers, but would really appreciate any feedback I can get from you all! Plus, my boat/trailer isn't readily available for the u-bolt measurements..

 

[Julian]

This thread (linked in the FAQ under trailer maintenance) should be very helpful for you!

https://jetboaters.net/threads/replaced-bunks-on-mfi-trailer.1927/

 

[Bruce]

How bad are your u-bolts?

I replaced one earlier this year. The nuts were rusted and had some damage on that one. I found a matching u-bolt set at Tractor Supply. They are standard sized for 3,000 pound springs.

All of the suspension is rusted. I plan to replace everything between the trailer and axles over the winter.

 

[prorider17]

@Bruce - two of the four u bolts are really bad. I figured I might as well knock them all out. My springs have rust, but they're in good shape. I think the galvanizing spray could help. My focus is on the bunks and u bolts. I can swap the u-bolts with my boat on the trailer right? All it takes is a jack, cut off wheel and new components? Are these the right u-bolts? http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension/Redline/APUBR-1.html

 

[Ronnie]

I had to replace a broken bunk board a few years ago and ended up launching the boat from my local Marina so that I could work on the trailer in the parking lot. You may want to do the same thing when you replace your boards. If you have all the material and tools ready I bet you could replace all of the boards in less than an hour.

 

[Bruce]

That looks like the right U-bolt set and matches my measurement notes which were.

U-bolt 6" x 2 3/8"'inside gap, Plate 5.25 x 3.5

You will need two of those to do the entire trailer.

I only changed one of the u-bolt and plate sets. I did so with the trailer jacked up and the boat on the trailer. It would have been easier and less stressful with the boat off. There was no way that I could have used a wrench or socket to remove the nuts. They were too deformed. So I used a sawsall to cut through the u-bolt above the axle. Both broke before I got close to cutting the axle. I would have preferred an angle grinder but did not want to throw hot metal with the boat so close. When the u-bolts break tension will be released. So there will be a pop and some movement.

Working from above and inside would be so much easier than outside and below. Over the winter I plan to put the trailer on blocks without the boat and tie the axles in place or support them with jack stands. Then I will work my way around removing bolts where possible and cutting where it is not. Then I will repaint the axles and reattach with all new hardware and springs.

 

[Bill D]

I just replaced my bunk boards. I used the guy that @MikeyL suggested and bought them on Ebay. Here is the link. http://stores.ebay.com/boatcarpetsales?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I got the 2x6 padded boards. I also used 1 1/2" stainless steel lag bolts as @Bruce detailed in his thread, which I just got from the local Home Depot.

All in, it cost me about $250 to buy the materials and took about 1/2 hour with a cordless impact. I just used the courtesy dock at the lake on a Tuesday night. Only saw 1 person while I was there.

 

[MikeyL]

I just replaced my bunk boards. I used the guy that @MikeyL suggested and bought them on Ebay. Here is the link. http://stores.ebay.com/boatcarpetsales?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I got the 2x6 padded boards. I also used 1 1/2" stainless steel lag bolts as @Bruce detailed in his thread, which I just got from the local Home Depot.

All in, it cost me about $250 to buy the materials and took about 1/2 hour with a cordless impact. I just used the courtesy dock at the lake on a Tuesday night. Only saw 1 person while I was there.

Glad this all worked out so well for you, @Bill D ............. That's what so great about our little Forum here ......... Sharing ideas and helping others, so THEY can have a better time and enjoy more FUN !
A GREAT upcoming weekend to you ! Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

 

[prorider17]

Thank you all for the input. I've compiled a list of everything I'll need to make this happen. Odds are that I'll probably replaced the leaf springs just because...

I called up MFI Trailers. They said that they use pressure treated wood for their bunks. I called Shoreland'r too. They said they use pine. I asked why not pressure treated, and they said because it has a greater potential to warp. I went to lowes to shop for a good 2"x6"x10' and could only find Top-Choice #2 Kiln Dried Whitewood. They said it was made of pine. Has anyone used this? Would I be ok going with it?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_31100-99899-A___?productId=50073119&pl=1&Ntt=2+x+6+x+10

Thanks again!

 

[MikeyL]

Call a local lumber yard and purchase some quality wood product.

Major difference between what you find there vs the "box stores."
Better help as well.

Good Luck, Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA - The Last Great Place !

 

[Bruce]

As @MikeyL said, go to a local lumber yard. If you know any builders ask them where they buy their lumber. I can call any of the local lumber yards and get truckloads of straight lumber delivered. If I go to Lowes I can spend an hour looking for four straight boards.

I used spruce. It is straighter and does not warp. I would prefer to have a softer and straighter bunk board despite the possibility that I may need to replace it more often.

 

[prorider17]

Thank you @MikeyL and @Bruce! I'll keep this thread updated on everything.

 

[Joel Caron]

I know this is probably a rare instance, but I went to two local lumber yards to buy some #1 Grade lumber, both yards did not have it and their #2 grade lumber was MUCH worse than HD or Lowe's.

 

[KXCam22]

At my store the pile of wood is #2 or better so you just have to pick through it to find the prime wood. I also used non-treated #1 spruce, radiused the edges with a plane then treated it with thompsons water seal. Cam.

 

[Bruce]

At my store the pile of wood is #2 or better so you just have to pick through it to find the prime wood. I also used non-treated #1 spruce, radiused the edges with a plane then treated it with thompsons water seal. Cam.

Did you treat it with water seal on all sides? This is certainly a debatable point but water seal can cause water to be trapped inside. I left mine untreated I hoped that it would dry faster. After two seasons they are holding up great.