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What size tubing is needed for cup holder drains?

Maineiac

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I think I should buy some to route water away from my subwoofer that sits directly under them...

518CF411-57B4-406A-B429-1E274F5A3DA5.jpeg
 

212s

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Not sure of size...if you don't get an answer you could always pull one out and size it at the store. Instead of running drains that might clog or get mildew/mold in them, I plan to silicone screw-covers into the holes of the cup holders so they don't drip at all. I don't wash the boat deck down with the hose so very little water gets in there, just cold drink condensation and the odd splash. I wipe them out with a small cloth if they get water in them which also keeps them clean and shiny.
:)
 

HangOutdoors

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Pretty sure 3/8" ID. Someone could double check me on your boat. I bought some just haven't installed it yet.
 

Maineiac

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Pretty sure 3/8" ID. Someone could double check me on your boat. I bought some just haven't installed it yet.
We have the same boat so if yours fits then it’ll work on mine too. Thanks!

Though, silicone might not be the worst idea either.
 

HangOutdoors

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I am debating, honestly on what to do. I am getting pretty tired of doing mods right now, and I haven't even done the trolling motor. Also tired of cutting holes in boat and fiberglass shards on my hands and arms. Not to mention I got stuck twice trying to crawl way in the back. :(

Silicone may be a way to go. Later could just take it/ drill it out if my OCD got to me over putting tubes in.
 

poordealguy

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Used 1/2” tubing when I replaced the swim deck cup holders with the mate series rod cup holders.
 

HangOutdoors

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@poordealguy Looks like you have almost a kink in that hose in the picture right where it connects.
 

poordealguy

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@poordealguy Looks like you have almost a kink in that hose in the picture right where it connects.
Yes, the rod holder goes really deep into the space - need to figure that out. On the 190 though, water would most likely flow directly into the bilge even without the hose.
 

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Silicone it :) Think I may just take that route tomorrow. :)
 

poordealguy

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...I took the rod/cup holder with me to HD to test fit - 10 ft for ~$5.XX...

edit: 1/2” ID and 5/8” ID
 
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HangOutdoors

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Yea I thought that is what I bought, 3/8" ID it fit the one I took out of the dash. I got the clear one that will withstand elements and extremes. I can look for the package in the garage if anyone has interest in me to do so.
 

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Yes but it would dry out or you could just blow it out or stick a rag in there. I dunno, was just thinking.
 

drewkaree

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@Maineiac for your specific spot there, I'd take out the cup holder, take it into Home Depot with you, and find some poly tubing like you would use for the water line to a refrigerator (it's opaque white stiffer tubing) . Get a few fittings, likely in that same aisle, and fab up something with that. Any area that kinks, cut it and use a fitting to keep things heading in the direction you want it to go.

I'd use the silicone to seal the tubing to the nipple on the cup holder. Put it on the nipple only, then slip the tubing on to keep it clean and open.

If you really want to make it simple, drill a hole in the floor in that compartment, fit a rubber grommet into that hole, and feed the hose from the cup holder into the grommet and let a few inches dangle past that so that it won't pull out. What little water that will pass through there will dump into the bilge, to be drained when you pull the plug for the day.

If you EVER get any water coming back up, you'll never even realize it, because you'll be more concerned at that point by your sinking boat!

Just drill away from the outer sidewall of that compartment
 
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drewkaree

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and fiberglass shards on my hands and arms.
It's a bitch to work in when it's hot out, but temps are reasonable for this right now - get yourself a Tyvek suit (two, if you can find one cheap enough), and put that on when working with the fiberglass.

The second one is to cut up, like a rainsuit, and wear the "top" when working topside to keep your arms itch-free. You can still get the stuff in some areas, but that'll help with your arms, and scraping the crap out of them too.

*edit* They got somewhat spendier, these cost me $32 a year ago, but it's a 6-pack, so still reasonably worth it, IMO. I had/have fiberglass insulation to pull down from the overhead joists of a 3-4' high crawl space as I lay on the ground underneath. HIGHLY recommended against fiberglass.
 
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FSH 210 Sport

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Fwiw,

A friend of mine suggested thanking a sanding block with 220 grit paper and hitting all the non finished surfaces inside compartments before starting work in the there to keep the fiberglass from getting into your skin...

The Tyvek suit and gloves is the way to go!
 

Maineiac

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@Maineiac for your specific spot there, I'd take out the cup holder, take it into Home Depot with you, and find some poly tubing like you would use for the water line to a refrigerator (it's opaque white stiffer tubing) . Get a few fittings, likely in that same aisle, and fab up something with that. Any area that kinks, cut it and use a fitting to keep things heading in the direction you want it to go.

I'd use the silicone to seal the tubing to the nipple on the cup holder. Put it on the nipple only, then slip the tubing on to keep it clean and open.

If you really want to make it simple, drill a hole in the floor in that compartment, fit a rubber grommet into that hole, and feed the hose from the cup holder into the grommet and let a few inches dangle past that so that it won't pull out. What little water that will pass through there will dump into the bilge, to be drained when you pull the plug for the day.

If you EVER get any water coming back up, you'll never even realize it, because you'll be more concerned at that point by your sinking boat!

Just drill away from the outer sidewall of that compartment
I’m actually leaning towards the silicone option. It would be pretty easy to just stick a towel in there to clean out any condensation that forms or drinks that splash in there.
 
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