Winterization/Annual Maintenance Checklist....

[Julian]

Also see the FAQ on this topic (this thread is link #1).

Here is a list of the things you need to do to winterize your boat:

Highly Recommended:
- Fill up gas tank to not quite full (have to listen for it)
- Pull drain plug from stern and open all drains inside boat, and open all doors, raise seats (or remove)-you want air flow
- Add Stabil or similar fuel stabilizer
- Rev engines to blow out water (totally optional...pour anti-freeze in hose connection and bilge pump)
- Fog engines (there is debate on this--the worst that can happen is you foul your plugs--the alternative of a siezed engine is much more expensive)
- Lube main bearing (check out this FAQ on what needs greasing)
- Lube reverse gate linkages (2 points)
- Lube Steering linkage (2 points)
- Remove batteries and put on trickle charger (or trickle charge in place if you can monitor)
- Put "No Damp" or equivilant in boat (kitty litter was one suggestion)
- Cover boat
-Winterize any ballast systems or water storage tanks.
-Remove clean out plugs (Yamahas) and ensure no water is inside them (shake them and listen). If water is inside, disassembe to drain them.
-Trailer - check brake operation (try backing up with the harness disconnected)
- Trailer - check to be sure your hitch nut is snug (not tight) so your hitch doesn't come off the ball.

Recommended:
- Change Oil (doesn't have to be done for winterizing-can be done in the spring too)
- If you have a YDS cable and SW--read hours and record oil change hour, and check for engine errors.
- Change Plugs? (or better yet, do that in spring)
- Spray exposed metal with Yamalube Silicon spray (or similar) - Optional
- Check bilge pump screen and clean if needed
- Remove Carpeting
- If mice are an issue--cover all external access points (and consider dryer sheets or other remedies to fend them off)
- If mud-daubers are an issue--put golf tees in pee holes
- Lube trailer bearings
- Check brake fluid in trailer
-Check Anodes (stern and engine anodes)-replace as needed.
- Inflate trailer tires as needed - and/or jack up trailer and put on blocks (cover tires)
- Jack up axles and put blocks under and cover tires (optional)
- Clean boat inside and out (optional I suppose)

OK....what did I miss that ya'll do?

 

[Par190sx]

Here is a list of the things you need to do to winterize your boat:

Highly Recommended:
- Fill up gas tank to not quite full (have to listen for it)
- Pull drain plug from stern and open all drains inside boat, and open all doors, raise seats (or remove)-you want air flow
- Add Stabil or similar fuel stabilizer
- Rev engines to blow out water (optional...pour anti-freeze in hose connection and bilge pump)
- Fog engines (there is debate on this--the worst that can happen is you foul your plugs--the alternative of a siezed engine is much more expensive)
- Lube main bearing
- Lube reverse gate linkages (2 points)
- Lube Steering linkage (2 points)
- Remove batteries and put on trickle charger (or trickle charge in place if you can monitor)
- Put "No Damp" or equivilant in boat (kitty litter was one suggestion)
- Cover boat

Recommended:
- Change Oil (doesn't have to be done for winterizing-can be done in the spring too)
- If you have a YDS cable and SW--read hours and record oil change hour, and check for engine errors.
- Change Plugs? (or better yet, do that in spring)
- Spray exposed metal with Yamalube Silicon spray (or similar) - Optional
- Check bilge pump screen and clean if needed
- Remove Carpeting
- If mice are an issue--cover all external access points (and consider dryer sheets or other remedies to fend them off)
- If mud-daubers are an issue--put golf tees in pee holes
- Lube trailer bearings
- Check brake fluid in trailer
-Check Anodes (stern and engine anodes)-replace as needed.
- Inflate trailer tires as needed - and/or jack up trailer and put on blocks (cover tires)
- Jack up axles and put blocks under and cover tires (optional)
- Clean boat inside and out (optional I suppose)

OK....what did I miss that ya'll do?

What exactly is fogging? I am a new owner so I will have a lot of questions. Thanks

 

[sstegh]

@Julian, too soon man, too soon...

 

[Julian]

@Julian, too soon man, too soon...

I posted this in Feb 2014....was actually "Too late man...too late" LOL

 

[Julian]

What exactly is fogging? I am a new owner so I will have a lot of questions. Thanks

Fogging the engines refers to spraying a lubricating engine fogging oil into the intakes of the engines to coat the interior metal to reduce corrosion over the winter.

 

[sstegh]

I posted this in Feb 2014....was actually "Too late man...too late" LOL

Lol, I didn't notice that. I should have known better.

 

[subysti]

I've always fogged all engines by pulling the plugs and fogging through the plug hole. That gets the cylinder walls and valves. I don't like spaying down the intake as there are usually sensors there now and the fogging oil gets sticky over time and will collect dirt and dust because it won't burn off in the intake. Most intakes are plastic now so they don't need fogging anyways.

 

[octavio3311]

For the love of God - please please stop talking about winterization!!!!!
PLEASE!

 

[Julian]

Dont forget the anti freeze......BWAAAAAAA.....

 

[Big Shasta]

I've always fogged all engines by pulling the plugs and fogging through the plug hole. That gets the cylinder walls and valves. I don't like spaying down the intake as there are usually sensors there now and the fogging oil gets sticky over time and will collect dirt and dust because it won't burn off in the intake. Most intakes are plastic now so they don't need fogging anyways.

Realize though, it's important to get the back sides of the intake valves. You won't get that by going directly into the cylinders.

 

[subysti]

if the valve is open then yes if the valve is closed then you won't get it into the cylinder going through the intake

 

[RiverRat]

I'm adding a new step to my boat hibernation process. I was spending a few days at the family getaway on the west side of the state where I keep the boat put away for the winter, and decided to do a walk around to make sure no critters got in. When I walked around the back I saw what looked like one of my drain plugs laying on the floor. I HATE MICE!!!!! Little bastard chewed up the plug and gnawed a bit on the threads in the female side as well. I immediately uncovered the boat and tried to find any evidence they were nesting in it. Didn't find any evidence so I breathed a sigh of relief and secured the plugs in the transom. I left them hanging because I always take them out after each outing, buy since I store the boat inside with the cover on tight, I think I should keep them buttoned up.

 

[subysti]

Well that sucks. Copper steel wool will stop them. It's the one thing mice won't chew through. It has to be copper, regular steel wool doesn't stop them.

 

[Big Shasta]

if the valve is open then yes if the valve is closed then you won't get it into the cylinder going through the intake

This is why you fog with the engine running.

 

[Devildog]

Don't kill the messenger

I have to winterize early this year and have one question that I can't seem to find an answer on any of the threads.

Do I keep the clean out plugs in or pull them out for the winter?

 

[buckbuck]

They will have water inside them. Pull them, disassemble and clean, re-lube and keep in a warm dry place.

 

[McMark]

Make sure to hold onto the straw on the fogging oil or we'll be seeing a thread "How do I get the fogging oil straw out of one of my cylinders".

 

[KXCam22]

Here is the checklist I always use. Cam.

McMark: You put thick grease on a long stick and fish around until the straw sticks to it. Imagine my surprise when the straw vanished. This was a non-yamaha episode.

 

[FloJet]

Here is a list of the things you need to do to winterize your boat:

Highly Recommended:
- Fill up gas tank to not quite full (have to listen for it)
- Pull drain plug from stern and open all drains inside boat, and open all doors, raise seats (or remove)-you want air flow
- Add Stabil or similar fuel stabilizer
- Rev engines to blow out water (optional...pour anti-freeze in hose connection and bilge pump)
- Fog engines (there is debate on this--the worst that can happen is you foul your plugs--the alternative of a siezed engine is much more expensive)
- Lube main bearing
- Lube reverse gate linkages (2 points)
- Lube Steering linkage (2 points)
- Remove batteries and put on trickle charger (or trickle charge in place if you can monitor)
- Put "No Damp" or equivilant in boat (kitty litter was one suggestion)
- Cover boat

Recommended:
- Change Oil (doesn't have to be done for winterizing-can be done in the spring too)
- If you have a YDS cable and SW--read hours and record oil change hour, and check for engine errors.
- Change Plugs? (or better yet, do that in spring)
- Spray exposed metal with Yamalube Silicon spray (or similar) - Optional
- Check bilge pump screen and clean if needed
- Remove Carpeting
- If mice are an issue--cover all external access points (and consider dryer sheets or other remedies to fend them off)
- If mud-daubers are an issue--put golf tees in pee holes
- Lube trailer bearings
- Check brake fluid in trailer
-Check Anodes (stern and engine anodes)-replace as needed.
- Inflate trailer tires as needed - and/or jack up trailer and put on blocks (cover tires)
- Jack up axles and put blocks under and cover tires (optional)
- Clean boat inside and out (optional I suppose)

OK....what did I miss that ya'll do?

Are there any photos in where to do the following? Not sure what bearings you are talking about. Will I have to get a grease gun for this? Forgive my ignorance.

- Lube main bearing
- Lube reverse gate linkages (2 points)
- Lube Steering linkage (2 points)

 

[Julian]

Are there any photos in where to do the following? Not sure what bearings you are talking about. Will I have to get a grease gun for this? Forgive my ignorance.

- Lube main bearing
- Lube reverse gate linkages (2 points)
- Lube Steering linkage (2 points)

You will need a grease gun for the main bearing.

The other two you just pull back the rubber boot, smear grease on the metal rod when fully extended, the slide the boot back.