Easiest way to add/amplify music at the helm

[Skroggy66]

here are holes I cut for my additional speakers. Probably went a little lower than some on the driver side, but it sounds great.

View attachment 49315 View attachment 49316

How much work was it to run the speakers wires?

 

[Drift Away]

here are holes I cut for my additional speakers. Probably went a little lower than some on the driver side, but it sounds great.

View attachment 49315 View attachment 49316

I am waiting on santa to bring me my JL 7.7 to replace my swim deck speakers. Then i am gonna move my JL 6.5's up in the same spot you put yours, add another 10" sub and another JL 6 Channel amp. Bringing the grand total to 6 6.5, 2 7.7, 2 10" subs and 2 6 channel amps. My audio guy here in Tarpon Springs FL is looking for a spot to put a set of 8.8's to use up the last 2 channels on the amp. Moderation is not my strong suit.

 

[fraserjr]

Alright, courtesy of @2nazt I think I am just going to get some lightly used Polk db 651's to put in on the helm a port side's to bring some of the sound there as others have suggested. Without going crazy, do I need to add an amp? If so, any good ideas on how to best wire it and what one to get? Like I said previously, I am not trying blow my hair back or break the bank just trying to be able to hear music at cruise.

 

[MattFX4]

How much work was it to run the speakers wires?

Not bad. Used a fish tape to run the passenger side wire around the front of boat. The driver said was simple because it's ride there by helm.

 

[MattFX4]

I am waiting on santa to bring me my JL 7.7 to replace my swim deck speakers. Then i am gonna move my JL 6.5's up in the same spot you put yours, add another 10" sub and another JL 6 Channel amp. Bringing the grand total to 6 6.5, 2 7.7, 2 10" subs and 2 6 channel amps. My audio guy here in Tarpon Springs FL is looking for a spot to put a set of 8.8's to use up the last 2 channels on the amp. Moderation is not my strong suit. View attachment 49322

That should sound good! I have 8 6.5's, and 1 10" sub right now myself and pretty happy with it. Wet sounds rev 10's being installed soon.

 

[2nazt]

I included an amp recommendation in the PM I sent but I know the Clarion xc1410 is a decent/cheap amp for the db speakers.

 

[Mainah]

@fraserjr - Sorry for the long post but I think you and perhaps others will find it useful. Unfortunately overcoming wind and motor noise in an open environment like a boat takes considerably more decibels than in a closed environment like a car. Speakers are better able to to produce clean and louder sound with the appropriate amount of clean power and the stock head unit does not even have enough power for the speakers that are already there. If your goal is being able to hear the music at cruise I recommend going with a 4 or 6 channel class D marine amp and hooking up the existing cockpit and/or bow speakers to the remaining channels after adding the the new pair. everything will be louder and cleaner that way. If you are trying to do this on a budget there are mid-grade marine amps out there like Kicker, JBL, and MB Quart that will do a good job for the small load you are looking at running. I recommend staying away from the true budget amps out there like Boss audio or Pyle and the like. In fact this one may be a good mid grade choice https://www.amazon.com/NA540-6-Naut...82419254&sr=8-3&keywords=6+channel+marine+amp . My reasoning on the 4 or 6 channel is that the install gear is going to cost you quite a bit of money and then there is your time since you are already at it so why not spend a small percentage extra and get a large percentage more bang for your buck. All of that said I personally will only use JL audio amps but they are expensive.

In case you have not read it on other threads already wire is very important. Don't use a kit from Walmart or Amazon. Only use good pure copper or tinned copper wire (don't believe everything you read on the package or marketing either). I found what is the very best marine power wire out there at the best price at http://www.knukonceptz.com/marine-audio/marine-power-wire/ . Their Kolossus Flexs wire is the best stuff you can get and half the price of the Jl Audio stuff which is exactly the same. Also make sure you get the right gauge of power wire for your load and length of run. 8 AWG may power a single amp at the helm but it would be cutting it close so 4 AWG would be the better and much safer way to go. Also make sure to fuse the positive power lead in line as close to the battery as possible (knukoncepts sells these too). You will also need an rca cable which is also available at you guessed it; knuknoceptz. I also recently discovered that In wall CL-3 speaker wire is great for a boat and certainly better than most other speaker wire while being very cost effective. Knukonceptz speaker wire is a better choice as their speaker wire in tinned but perhaps a bit more expensive. I like 14 AWG wire for most speaker runs with the exception being 12 AWG for subwoofers.

Yes the price all adds up but the old acronym concerning BOAT ownership is very true (Break Out Another Thousand). My recommendation above won't come close to winning any competitions or even bragging rights at the local ramp but it will get you a decently good sounding system that is also safe and won't fail down road if installed properly.

One install tip for the the speakers you are adding is that this hole saw kit from harbor freight makes a perfect 5 inch hole (exact mounting hole needed) in the fiberglass for cheap http://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html . Tape off the area with painters tape, drill the pilot hole in forwards then switch to reverse to get the saw through the thin gel coat layer then back over to forward to get through the fiberglass. Put the speakers in the 5 inch holes to mark the 4 screw holes of the speakers and pilot drill those out. Pilot holes in fiberglass need to be close to the final screw size you are using like cabinet grade hardwood. If you get the speakers from @2nazt you may ask him to make sure to include the gold plated female wiring spades that I included in the box as the db651 are an odd size and I ordered those separately (that is unless you prefer to solder). Lastly or rather firstly don't forget a good dust mask, googles, gloves and work clothes as cutting fiberglass is nasty.

Good luck.

 

[robert843]

If you are running the stock head unit you will probably need an amp to be happy. If you really don't wan't to spend the money on a amp you can try it with out one if you do I would run the wires in parallel with the rear speakers this will drop the load to 2 ohms forcing the head unit to throw out more power but I'm not sure if the head unit can handle a 2 ohm load.

 

[Skroggy66]

If you are running the stock head unit you will probably need an amp to be happy. If you really don't wan't to spend the money on a amp you can try it with out one if you do I would run the wires in parallel with the rear speakers this will drop the load to 2 ohms forcing the head unit to throw out more power but I'm not sure if the head unit can handle a 2 ohm load.

Oh no I would have to go big or go home. I hate playing the I WISH I WOULD HAVE game. Team overkill!

 

[fraserjr]

@Mainah Thanks for the in-depth post. I will probably do as you suggested and get a 6-channel amp, just to make all of the speakers sound better. As for wiring them, you are suggesting I wire the 6 cabin speakers through the amp correct and I assume leave the tower tweeters and swim lounger speakers wires to the head unit?

Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for this? In seeing other posts about the 2016's, it seems that they are wired differently than in years past.

Also, this may be a stupid question but in the boats with Connext, is the Connext system considered the head unit or is the rear remote the head unit? In other words is the RCA hookup coming from the helm or the rear remote?

 

[Mainah]

@Mainah Thanks for the in-depth post. I will probably do as you suggested and get a 6-channel amp, just to make all of the speakers sound better. As for wiring them, you are suggesting I wire the 6 cabin speakers through the amp correct and I assume leave the tower tweeters and swim lounger speakers wires to the head unit?

Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for this? In seeing other posts about the 2016's, it seems that they are wired differently than in years past.

Also, this may be a stupid question but in the boats with Connext, is the Connext system considered the head unit or is the rear remote the head unit? In other words is the RCA hookup coming from the helm or the rear remote?

Yes you are correct and that is how I currently have things wired although I will be upgrading again come spring. Here is my original upgrade thread which is basically what you are doing minus the subwoofer and dual amps https://jetboaters.net/threads/detailed-2016-242-ls-1k-audio-upgrade.9400/

There is a Polk head unit in the helm that looks like a standard car or boat stereo head unit with no faceplate and yes it has rca cables and a remote wire for the amp on it. The swim deck remote is just that a remote for the head unit. The head unit talks to Connext though the same remote protocol as the swim deck remote and sees Connext as just another remote.

I ran new speaker wire to the cabin speakers from my amps in order to allow the tower tweeters and swim deck to be powered off the head unit by leaving the stock head unit wires all connected. In order to get the rear swim deck working you will need to splice the now disconnected factory rear cabin speaker positive and negative leads on each side together (positive to negative on the same pair) (not running wire from port to starboard).

 

[Drift Away]

That should sound good! I have 8 6.5's, and 1 10" sub right now myself and pretty happy with it. Wet sounds rev 10's being installed soon.

I am gonna keep adding speakers till i make the water rings like the jurassic park water cup part

 

[Julian]

My next audio upgrade is putting speakers in the same general area that @MattFX4 did I think this will really improve the ability to hear under way as those speakers will also be protected from the wind. The rear speaker location on the 2010-14 240 models is terrible they put them in the most popular spots to sit on the boat so while under way there is almost always someone sitting covering them up so you are basically operating with only the 2 front speakers while under way.

This is why I love the sound bar on the tower. With the 8 midrange speakers and 2 tweeters is puts out some nice sound to fill the cabin with no obstruction.

 

[MattFX4]

I am gonna keep adding speakers View attachment 49324 till i make the water rings like the jurassic park water cup part

Haha. You will love the JL 7.7's. I met a guy on the lake this summer who replaced all the factory speakers in his AR240 with JL 7.7's, and added two additional 7.7's and a 10" sub in the cockpit area. It sounded great.

 

[Drift Away]

Haha. You will love the JL 7.7's. I met a guy on the lake this summer who replaced all the factory speakers in his AR240 with JL 7.7's, and added two additional 7.7's and a 10" sub in the cockpit area. It sounded great.

I cant wait. Just need "santa wife" let me open them lol

 

[Skroggy66]

This is why I love the sound bar on the tower. With the 8 midrange speakers and 2 tweeters is puts out some nice sound to fill the cabin with no obstruction.

Is that a plug and go on the 242 LSE or do I have to wire that up also ?

 

[Julian]

Is that a plug and go on the 242 LSE or do I have to wire that up also ?

It is not plug as go. I am almost certain that the non-X tower doesn't have the mounting points for the sound bar. If you have tower tweeters, you could use those speaker wires to connect the sound bar...that would save some wire pulling effort.

Regarding the rest of the system.....everyone has an opinion/advice, so here is mine....

On my last boat I put the amp in the compartment next to the batteries - the same way Yamaha has done with the X series. This reduces the power wire cable length (that cable is expensive), and I also think it makes wiring the speakers easier (I left the bow speakers on the HU) as from the battery compartment it is easy to get to the cabin/stern/tower etc. Then all you have to do is buy one long good RCA cable and amp turn on wire to the HU. Just make sure what ever you do, that the amp's tuning controls face outwards (unlike Yamaha did on the X)!

 

[fraserjr]

Yes you are correct and that is how I currently have things wired although I will be upgrading again come spring. Here is my original upgrade thread which is basically what you are doing minus the subwoofer and dual amps https://jetboaters.net/threads/detailed-2016-242-ls-1k-audio-upgrade.9400/

There is a Polk head unit in the helm that looks like a standard car or boat stereo head unit with no faceplate and yes it has rca cables and a remote wire for the amp on it. The swim deck remote is just that a remote for the head unit. The head unit talks to Connext though the same remote protocol as the swim deck remote and sees Connext as just another remote.

I ran new speaker wire to the cabin speakers from my amps in order to allow the tower tweeters and swim deck to be powered off the head unit by leaving the stock head unit wires all connected. In order to get the rear swim deck working you will need to splice the now disconnected factory rear cabin speaker positive and negative leads on each side together (positive to negative on the same pair) (not running wire from port to starboard).

I crawled onto the boat a couple days ago just to poke around. On my boat, the head unit is back by the batteries so it probably makes the most sense to just wire the amp there rather than in the helm console. Is there any reason I can't reuse the speaker wires that are currently attached to the head unit and connect them to the amp? That would save me from having to re-run all new wires and just run wires for the new speakers. Also, for running the speaker wire to the starboard side, how did you all route them?

Lastly, I would really like to mount the speakers in the black molding where the throttles are on helm side and above where the cupholders are on the port side. If I were to use a bezel/spacer is there enough room to fit them there?

 

[Julian]

In my last boat I reused the stock speaker wires and couldn't tell the difference. Audiophiles will say the stock wires are too thin - I tested a connection with a heavy speaker wire (just ran it loose over the deck and compared it to the stock speaker wire and I couldn't tell the difference.

To get to the starboard side I just ran the wires through the front edge of the engine compartment.

Mounting a speaker in that inset would be really tight....I'm not sure how thick of a bezel you'd need....you'll need to measure it carefully - not heard of anyone mounting there. I'm looking into mounting on the port side above where the garbage can is supposed to sit.

 

[fraserjr]

In my last boat I reused the stock speaker wires and couldn't tell the difference. Audiophiles will say the stock wires are too thin - I tested a connection with a heavy speaker wire (just ran it loose over the deck and compared it to the stock speaker wire and I couldn't tell the difference.

To get to the starboard side I just ran the wires through the front edge of the engine compartment.

Mounting a speaker in that inset would be really tight....I'm not sure how thick of a bezel you'd need....you'll need to measure it carefully - not heard of anyone mounting there. I'm looking into mounting on the port side above where the garbage can is supposed to sit.

I just ran out to the boat again and removed the cupholders to measure the depth of the inset. It looks like both sides have about 1 1/4" clearance depth. With using a 1" spacer that would give me 1/4" left. So I may try that route.