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Dual Throttle usage

Osric

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
49
Reaction score
19
Points
97
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
242X E-Series
Boat Length
24
So I'm settling into my new boat (242X E-Series 2017) and have found that I basically drive on single lever 100% of the time.

As a newbie to boating in general and jet boating in particular, I was hoping people could give me examples of what dual throttle is good for on your boat / when you use it.

Aside from spinning the boat in low speed situations with one in reverse and one in forward, I have never used the feature. It'd be great to understand how big the RPM difference is allowed to be, how it affects the wake for surfing, or other uses if any...

Thanks!
Osric
 
It's too convenient not to use it all the time - the only time I want split throttle control is maneuvering around the docks.
This is a great feature especially since Yamaha's cable control rigs have had issues forever - apparently they are delivering 2017's that have the same problems as my SX210 did in 2009!
 
I bit the bullet and bought the throttle sync system from jetboatpilot. It's on back order and I'm not sure when I'll get it. My concern is will I be able to get the damn throttle cables adjusted properly so they'll be at the same RPM when the therottles are locked together. Stay tuned....
 
I bit the bullet and bought the throttle sync system from jetboatpilot. It's on back order and I'm not sure when I'll get it. My concern is will I be able to get the damn throttle cables adjusted properly so they'll be at the same RPM when the therottles are locked together. Stay tuned....
This maybe okay but will not work across the whole RPM spectrum as the pumps are loading unevenly between the two sides in twins. To make it worse, Yamaha no longer equips the new boats with impellers that are differentially pitched for each side (which they used to do to alleviate this issue).

The only way to really synch the twin engines across the RPM range is electronic. Given E-series fly-by-wire throttles are not retrofitable in non-E series, the only option (for non-E-series) right now is the Hydrophase/Ridesteady system.

Ridesteady. One of the top three mods in my boat.

I don't (hardly ever) split the throttles, but I like having the option (as opposed to the single lever). My throttles do not droop, I can go all day long without touching them.

What I find myself doing (when just cruising around) is this:
  1. the Ridesteady set to RPM mode but "OFF"
  2. use the throttles to get up on plane and up to any desired cruising/coasting/whatever speed
  3. adjust the RPM "Set" in Ridesteady (withe RS still "OFF") with the knob to match (roughly) my current operating RPM
  4. turn the Ridesteady "ON" - it will take over smoothly w/no big transition
  5. use the knob all day long - from no wake to WOT
  6. when in need to make any sudden adjustments or stop - grab the throttles to override the system.
This ends up working kind of like cars' cruise control, except boats best use constant RPM for cruising.

When docking or under any conditions when I need rapid response I turn the Ridesteady OFF (at anytime).

The Ridesteady is built and designed with water skiing/wake/surfboarding enthusiasts in mind, but it works amazingly well as a regular cruise control. Just switch the GPS/RPM modes between towing and cruising. Unlike PerfectPass, RS for Yamaha twins does not have any moving parts, mechanical linkages, servo motors, etc - so there is nothing to wear out and break. It is essentially a splice-in fly-by-wire system that takes over at the APS modules overriding the mechanical throttles (with all the safety stops built-in).


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Last edited:
Where's a link to Ridesteady's product? How much is this thing?
 
I don't have any throttle sync or anything and constantly use split throttles. Here is where:
1) To turn sharply (for a donut, or to go get a downed tuber), bump the outside engine a bit
2) To trim for port/starboard wind/current (bump so you don't have to steer against the wind so much, mostly)
3) As you mentioned, all docking situations where you want to spin
4) Docking situations where I miss the dock (too far away); by splitting the throttles and evening the fore/aft thrust and turning the wheel, you can move laterally
5) Extending #1, when I am starting off and want to go the other direction (aft), I usually turn the wheel full that way and only hit that throttle until I am 25-50% of the way around, then bring in the other engine
 
So I'm settling into my new boat (242X E-Series 2017) and have found that I basically drive on single lever 100% of the time.

As a newbie to boating in general and jet boating in particular, I was hoping people could give me examples of what dual throttle is good for on your boat / when you use it.

Aside from spinning the boat in low speed situations with one in reverse and one in forward, I have never used the feature. It'd be great to understand how big the RPM difference is allowed to be, how it affects the wake for surfing, or other uses if any...

Thanks!
Osric

The reality is that you really don't need to use independent throttles for anything. I typically only use it around docks. Love the single lever control and also use it almost all the time! Wish I could set it as the default!
 
I use them like @tdonoughue does. With one in fwd and one in rev you can do some great maneuvers for docking etc. When bored and waiting for the truck to get to the ramp so I can load, I often will sit and do a slow flat spin, mainly to show off because no one else can do it. Cam.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone.

I went out today and played with the ballast and RPMs to see if I could get a better wave with the engines at different RPMs and the effect was negligible and the throttles much harder to manage.

I'll have to try some of the use cases @tdonahue mentions, but I think I'll wind up in @Julian's camp of wishing I could just set single lever as default. I assume Yamaha has some prohibition against hacking the software in Connext ... so many things I want to change, I'll have to see if I care about warranty. I didn't buy the extended warranty in any event, so not long to wait for it to run out...

Osric
 
Thanks for the responses everyone.

I went out today and played with the ballast and RPMs to see if I could get a better wave with the engines at different RPMs and the effect was negligible and the throttles much harder to manage.

I'll have to try some of the use cases @tdonahue mentions, but I think I'll wind up in @Julian's camp of wishing I could just set single lever as default. I assume Yamaha has some prohibition against hacking the software in Connext ... so many things I want to change, I'll have to see if I care about warranty. I didn't buy the extended warranty in any event, so not long to wait for it to run out...

Osric

At least it remembers "Single Lever" mode unless you turn off the key switch....so you really only need to press the button once a trip.
 
@Osric...if I remember correct from my manual, the E-series throttles will auto-sync any time the engines are above 3,000 rpm...

I rarely use the single throttle option on my E-Series. I think this is likely because of my needed habit from my old 232 and I've grown accustomed to using the throttles separately. Specific times when I do use the throttles separately:
1) Wakesurfing. When the e-throttles are at the notch, the buckets aren't totally raised. If I have a heavier surfer back there, I'll move one throttle lever about 1/2 thickness up (you can audibly hear the thrust change and not the ramp) and it'll then give them enough resistance to help set the board.
2) When docking...I like the fine tuned control...especially when making that 90 degree turn into my slip and lining it up correctly against the wind.
3) Sometimes when picking up a downed skier however with the articulating keel, I've found the boat will practically turn around in it's own length
4) If I want to side-step the stern to line up with a skier/surfer quicker.
 
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