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Auto bilge??? I'm a jackass...

the MfM

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I think the more important thing than a backup bilge pump is a bilge alarm. All the stories I've read of boats swamping have been a result of the engine pumping water into the boat in some failure or another, and no bilge pump would have been able to keep up. If however, they had early warning and caught it in time (ie cut the engine) it could have been avoided or at least less drastic. For me installing an alarm is first priority, the extra pump is more of a "as long as I'm in here, I might as well" type of thing - will put it on the same float as the alarm.

Edit: I'm speaking from a midwest lake boating perspective. A costal and/or Bimini boater may very well have a different perspective on number of bilge pumps and reasons for them.
I’ve seen a couple boats sink at the dock as a result of a dead battery/faulty pump, no cover or leaky canvas and a week of rain.
 

MidnightRider

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I’ve seen a couple boats sink at the dock as a result of a dead battery/faulty pump, no cover or leaky canvas and a week of rain.
Fair - should have added boaters with slips to the list of my disclaimer. :)
 

Dixie Highway

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Function update!!! I did some investigating and found, on my 2018 210 FSH anyway, that the bilge pump is indeed wired directly to the battery, and does indeed have a float switch. 94461

Battery switches both off.

94462

Bilge switch also off. In this configuration the switch will not initiate the pump manually.

94463

Filling the bilge with a hose however, once the water reaches the round blue tabs that hold the pump to the screen base, pump will kick on whether the battery switches are off or on.

94464

When the pump turns on, the switch indicator lights up to show the bilge pump is running. To note, the switch will not run the bilge in manual mode without the house battery on. I also noticed it took a really, really, long time running the hose to get enough water to run the bilge. Like, 5 minutes running full blast. This information will be useful, and is also OPPOSITE of what the manual tells you on a 2018. My dealer was correct after all. In conclusion, it seems as though the 2018 and later have a more sensible bilge pump setup, but I would verify this for yourself before betting your boat (or life for that matter) on it.
 

Dixie Highway

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And in case you’re wondering, the bilge is a Rule Mate model RM500ADM. Seems to be an internal float somewhere inside the pump, or an electronic contact switch, as even turning it upside down did not start it.
 

tabbibus

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Function update!!! I did some investigating and found, on my 2018 210 FSH anyway, that the bilge pump is indeed wired directly to the battery, and does indeed have a float switch. View attachment 94461

Battery switches both off.

View attachment 94462

Bilge switch also off. In this configuration the switch will not initiate the pump manually.

View attachment 94463

Filling the bilge with a hose however, once the water reaches the round blue tabs that hold the pump to the screen base, pump will kick on whether the battery switches are off or on.

View attachment 94464

When the pump turns on, the switch indicator lights up to show the bilge pump is running. To note, the switch will not run the bilge in manual mode without the house battery on. I also noticed it took a really, really, long time running the hose to get enough water to run the bilge. Like, 5 minutes running full blast. This information will be useful, and is also OPPOSITE of what the manual tells you on a 2018. My dealer was correct after all. In conclusion, it seems as though the 2018 and later have a more sensible bilge pump setup, but I would verify this for yourself before betting your boat (or life for that matter) on it.
Science!
 

Matt1978

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Over the winter I received a letter from Yamaha with a correction to the owners manual for my 18 sx 195 to reflect that bilge is always on even when battery switch is off.
 

Garrett C

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I just experienced on my AR190 last week when I took my boat back to where I store it at after cleaning it out. Was driving down the road went around a postal truck that was parked in the middle of the road and the bilge for sure turned on with my battery off and pumped water on the truck. Good thing they get out on the passenger side of the truck. First thing I did was check to make sure I turned off my battery when I stopped, and it was off. Learning occurred.
 

Zeusmotorworks

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Interesting... have not had a chance to see what’s what yet.
 

Dixie Highway

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I like that ABYC wiring standard tape job on the wire coming out of the VSR. ;)
I probably went a little crazy with the heat shrink and tape, I solder most connections then heat shrink, this one moves a lot so I double heat shrinked and taped lol.
 

Zeusmotorworks

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So after taking the boat out brought it home and put the hose to the engine compartment. Sure enough, boat keys in the house, after a substantial amount of water, the bilge came on and pumped it out. Bilge is hardwired to the battery.
 

Dixie Highway

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@Zeusmotorworks have a question for you, does your Connext screen display the depth of the water? Mine will give me water temp, but no depth gauge? I thought it had depth, if it doesn’t where does it read the water temp from? I’ve never seen a pulse style paddle wheel (like our speed meter uses) with a temp sensor, but idk. I know this isn’t exactly on topic for this thread just thought I’d ask.
 

Julian

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For any of the boats with only an auto sensing pump (no float switch) you had to leave the boat with the pump in auto mode. So the concern is that the pump comes on every two minutes when it’s nots needed to check for water and drains the battery over a few days or week. And then when it’s needed or you return to and try to start the boat the batteries are dead.

Easiest way for peace of mind is a float switch. Though it’s probably not really needed for a trailer boat.
I tested the back pressure bilge pumps repeatedly when I had my boat in a wet slip in Wisconsin. The bilge pump would run the battery down in about 2 weeks with no use.

Glad to see they are improving their bilge pump setups!
 

Dennis P

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I fresh water wet slip my 2008 232 LTD, every 30 days I swap out the accessory battery with a freshly charged one. I leave the accessory battery and bilge switched on ( I can hear the bilge pump cycle). I take the month old battery home and put it on a charger and use it to replace 30 days later. So 90 days at the wet slip 2 changes, no issues for the past two years. Battery stays live between changes.
 

Zeusmotorworks

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@Zeusmotorworks have a question for you, does your Connext screen display the depth of the water? Mine will give me water temp, but no depth gauge? I thought it had depth, if it doesn’t where does it read the water temp from? I’ve never seen a pulse style paddle wheel (like our speed meter uses) with a temp sensor, but idk. I know this isn’t exactly on topic for this thread just thought I’d ask.
Much to my UTTER dismay this boat does NOT have a depth gauge that I’m aware of! What the Hell!!! My $50k boat does not have a basic tool for boating!
 

Zeusmotorworks

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Guess my light hearted rant didn't translate... I do not have a depth gauge I can find. However I think I saw the wheel near the keel, forward of the starboard jet.

<edit> Sorry that was the speed sensor I believe. I have not looked to see where a temp sensor might be.
 

Dixie Highway

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No I get you, kinda sucks but I suppose most would have some kind of sonar installed on a boat like this.
 

Zeusmotorworks

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True and on the list as I'm sure most do...
 

Grassman

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Much to my UTTER dismay this boat does NOT have a depth gauge that I’m aware of! What the Hell!!! My $50k boat does not have a basic tool for boating!
If it makes you feel any better, neither does a yellowfin, freeman, nortech, or most any center console boat. Depth is usually done by an aftermarket fishfinder/chartplotter.
 

Dixie Highway

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True and on the list as I'm sure most do...
If you’re interested I have a thread on my 210 build with my budget plotter option. So far it’s working superbly, more to come.
 
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