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07 to 09 230 Series Shift Cable Replacement

GNX231

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awesome tread i just replaced my port cable Saturday. the only question i have would be did you all re-adjust all your shifter stops and also is there a spec as for the shifter tension adjustment?
 

Topper232

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@GNX231 I'm sure if there's a specific tension. If you bought the correct replacement cable and put shifter stop and reverse gate connector back on using the same amount of turns as when you removed them, it should all be good. I was amazed at how well this went after I completed the job. My son and I took the boat out that night it ran great.

On the shifter stop, I counted 21 turns on removal. On my reverse gate connector, I counted 15 turns.

Hope that helps.
 

cwoav8r

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Sorry Tony @Topper232 for the late reply to your IM... I have been so busy lately at work and school I have had no time to play. I see that you got your cable replaced, hate that I could not respond sooner when you needed it, my apologies.

Ed
 

Topper232

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No worries @cwoav8r. I mirrored your process and it was a snap. Thank you!
 

GNX231

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@GNX231 I'm sure if there's a specific tension. If you bought the correct replacement cable and put shifter stop and reverse gate connector back on using the same amount of turns as when you removed them, it should all be good. I was amazed at how well this went after I completed the job. My son and I took the boat out that night it ran great.

On the shifter stop, I counted 21 turns on removal. On my reverse gate connector, I counted 15 turns.

Hope that helps.
thanks i had to re-adjust all aspects on both throttles but as far as the tension adjustment goes i'm not quit sure what is say factory. my right side feels tight but while cruising backs off by itself. if i make it tighter the shifter no longer feels smooth
 

graham cormack

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great post, thanks for putting this up, im trying to change a cable over but cant get the deck bolts out!! unfortunately i cant source either a robinsons no4 bit or a 10-32 coupling nut anywhere in the uk, ive been looking on ebay.com in the US but cant find any there either, our hardward stores in Scotland dont stock anything like them either, i dont suppose any of you guys coukd get them for me and mail them to me here in scotland and i can send the money to you with paypal?
thanks
 

Julian

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bronze_10

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I used this great write up to get set to change my reverse bucket cables but what i could not figure out was what held the cable in place at the back and kept it from sliding back and forth. It is prob here somewhere but i wanted to leave this pic here for others to see..

20171115_165319.jpg 20171115_165310.jpg
 

Murf'n'surf

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I used this great write up to get set to change my reverse bucket cables but what i could not figure out was what held the cable in place at the back and kept it from sliding back and forth. It is prob here somewhere but i wanted to leave this pic here for others to see..

View attachment 66021 View attachment 66022
If I’m understanding your question correctly, you need to slide that black stopper piece back into the white piece and then slide the nut down and tighten it up.
 

bronze_10

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Well.. after i replace the cable i will..... the pic shows the inside of the throu hull cable nut. Thats what i was trying to figure out but there were no pics of it... i just wanted to post the pic so others could see how it comes apart and what holds the cable in place under the nut.
 

Botar110

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Many, many thanks for these excellent DIY instructions. I replaced my port cable this weekend in just over 1-hour. I ran out of daylight otherwise I would have done the starboard side too. Here are my few updates for those going down this path next. 1) I had to cut the zip ties holding the cables together under the helm station. 2) I could not get the old cable to pass through the transom due to a break. So, I had to remove the pump plug tray access panel to access the through fitting. 3) The updated part number has an 'X' in it. According to Boatstore USA this simply means it will tolerate a greater radius. I used this one: http://www.boatstoreusa.com/hydraulic-mechanical/shift-throttle-control-cables/teleflex-ccx63318-control-cable-xtreme-33c-18/ . No Action is now ready for Duck Key, FL the first week of July.
 

Scottintexas

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Glad to have you on board @Botar110 be sure to look in our FAQ tab above for lots of great tips/DIY's, also in my signature below is a link with known issues of your year boat,

start a new thread and give us some pictures of Duck Key when you get there!
 

kevinmoeller

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Thanks to all who posted on here re the cable replacement. I was able to perform the job without issue. I am going to change the starboard cable ASAP as well. Really appreciate the in depth explanation.
 

BlkGS

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I just did one of these Thursday evening. I also couldn't source the connecting but, so I just used liberal amounts of electrical tape to tape the two ends together. I figured it worked for fishing big power wires through firewalls, it will work for this, and was right.

The gate connector on mine was corroded kinda badly, so I didn't have much of a chance to count turns. I did my best to line up the connector to where it was but will need to adjust it slightly still.

After doing this, my throttles got very loose and drop badly, probably need to adjust tension on them.

The other thing I thought about is putting a ring of silicone sealant around the through hull fitting these go through. Probably overkill, but now I've got the fear that I didn't tighten to spec, and may leak there.a quick bead around this would be cheap insurance.

Anyways, thanks for the write up. This place saved me a lot of hassle.
 

Julian

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I just did one of these Thursday evening. I also couldn't source the connecting but, so I just used liberal amounts of electrical tape to tape the two ends together. I figured it worked for fishing big power wires through firewalls, it will work for this, and was right.

The gate connector on mine was corroded kinda badly, so I didn't have much of a chance to count turns. I did my best to line up the connector to where it was but will need to adjust it slightly still.

After doing this, my throttles got very loose and drop badly, probably need to adjust tension on them.

The other thing I thought about is putting a ring of silicone sealant around the through hull fitting these go through. Probably overkill, but now I've got the fear that I didn't tighten to spec, and may leak there.a quick bead around this would be cheap insurance.

Anyways, thanks for the write up. This place saved me a lot of hassle.
I put silicon on the inside of the through hull fitting on mine....pretty sure there was some there from the factory....(not certain though)
 

captainhook

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I put silicon on the inside of the through hull fitting on mine....pretty sure there was some there from the factory....(not certain though)
I just completed this yesterday. The inside of the hull on mine had a ton of silicone. On one side I spent probably an hour hacking it all out with a screwdriver (be careful, the hose clamps are super sharp, ask me how I know), but on the other side I just yanked it through after hacking a little bit off. I didn't feel comfortable without resealing it so I put a ton of silicone back after I removed the cleanout tray again because I forgot to do it the first time.

I found this easier than the steering cable replacement I did last year because I didn't have to make any adjustments, but it still took longer than I expected. If I did it again, I think I could do it in about 1-2 hours but it probably took about 3-4 for various reasons (see below).

Some more tips:

1. Where the cable goes through the hull on the outside, there is a rubber grommet (labeled #2) shown in the image below I stole from @bronze_10 that goes into the through-hull fitting (labeled #1) seals the hull a bit and keeps the cable centered. On mine those both fell out in the grass when the cables were pulled through and I did not realize it because they stayed in the through-hull fitting unlike in the image below where they were pulled out. When I went to reconnect the cables at the stern, the cable wasn't centered and it seemed there was too much space that wasn't there when I was disconnecting. Then I saw one of the grommets on the grass and realized it came out. Fortunately I found both of them in the grass and was able to put them back. Losing those probably would've resulted in some overpriced parts from Yamaha and a two week shipping delay.

2019-06-10 12_13_15-20171115_165319.jpg ‎- Photos.png

2. The snap ring/retaining ring shown in this image I stole from @cwoav8r that is taped in as an extra--I had to use it. I snapped the original back on when I was reconnecting and realized that it was bent slightly and was very loose. Only one of my throttles had this extra one taped in so I was glad to find it as I was ready to head to the hardware store, figuring they wouldn't have stainless (I was right, see #3 below).



3. I had a really hard time getting one of the retaining clips off of the end of the cable where it connects to the reverse bucket. I grabbed it with a pair of pliers and was trying to hold it while I unscrewed the locknut and wound up ripping off the retaining clip from the end, marked with an arrow on the image below I stole from @Julian 's thread. A 7/16" retaining clip does the trick and the hardware store did not have stainless, so I bought a temporary one and ordered some stainless ones from Amazon. I'm glad I didn't have to replace this whole retaining nut because it's forty bucks from Yamaha and would have my boat down for two weeks waiting for it.

2019-06-10 12_47_30-How to replace Reverse Gate cable _ Jet Boaters Community Forum.png

4. When I replaced my steering cables, I started using a coupler but the second one I did not because the coupler wouldn't fit the threads for some reason. For the control cables, I didn't even bother and just duct taped them together and used one zip tie. The only place they bound at all was going from the cleanout area to the engine bay because of the plastic tubing. If you pull that out ahead of time, it's easy to pull through. Even easier if you have your wife feed the cable through while you're pulling from the throttles.

5. I've seen this mentioned a couple of times but my port throttle was connected to my right starboard bucket, and starboard throttle the port reverse bucket. It worked before so I'll just chalk this one up as I don't know, I don't care, but it's odd to me.
 

Rockbtm

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Great write up. Just following to prepare to do my own soon.
 
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