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2nd Battery Quote...tell me what you think...

The best reason I can tell you to do this yourself, is that when your out on the lake and it is acting wrong after a dealer install, you won't know why. Install it yourself, learn why you did what, and you will know how to use it. The reason the price gets larger and the job gets bigger is because your planning for the future, not because your adding a simple battery and switch. If it is just insurance you want, then just add a second battery and a simple 1/off/2 switch. If you want to install something to help with additional upgrades, then you spend a tad bit more but add time and effort to the install to make it simple. Plenty of threads with diagrams, I will give you the blue sea switch diagram and ACR you pictured as well as a simple switch diagram. They are easy to draw but a little harder to contort in a narrow gunwale interior to install. I can tell you too, that there are other considerations. Remember that you need to check the electrolyte level in your batteries frequently. Also remember that a battery that never gets exercise isn't going to last long, so using it is important. Ok, here are a couple diagrams for consideration...let's start small, here is what you have...
Standard single battery-no switch.jpg
Here is the simple perko style 1/off/2 switch. Oh, the combine, or both setting is for emergencies and you shouldn't use that unless you have a dead bank. Some guys want to use that and it is defeating the purpose of having backup, running a risk of using a bad battery, and other issues.
1-2-off-combine diagram.jpg
Here is the blue sea and acr without any additional features. Note that all diagrams don't show needed or recommended fuses. Note that the ACR is on the battery side of the switch. You can also install the ACR on the load side. There is a difference and what you want it to do is something you have to decide. If the dealer does it, you won't know what he did or how it works. We can explain the difference and the details of this to you.
simple schematic no busses.jpg
Here is the same setup with the ACR on the load side.
ACR loadside without busses with amp.jpg
Here is an ACR explanation page I did that helps to understand how to get what you want out of it.
ACR explanations.jpg
I wanted the most out of my system. I added ground and load buses at the battery compartment, as well as a switch and ground bus at the helm. That way adding or removing any equipment was easy in the future. Here is my electrical system. Note that chargers aren't shown in all diagrams and that leads to another discussion for another thread.
Nauti Dawg Electrical System.jpg
 
Wow, lots of info to digest. Thanks very much!
The more i read about it, it doesn't seem overly complex. but it can seem to get complicated very easily depending on how far i take it. i am also installing a small amp (just for 4 cabin speakers) so should i add the bus bars?

Lots to think about... thanks again
 
Another question: Lets say i added this blue seas with ACR and switch, and wanted to charge the batteries with a normal Battery tender, do you turn the switch to off and hook directly to the individual battery? or do i turn to one?

For the past 5 years i have never charged my battery once i put the boat in the water in spring. i just use it and once winter hits and i pull the boat off the lift, i take the battery out leave it hooked up to the Battery Tender...
 
A battery tender isn't a charger, it is a maintainer. It won't exercise the battery(s). You can just use one charger and get two sets of leads, charging them one at a time. Or, you can use two chargers. You can even hook the ACR on the battery side, and the ACR will close with appropriate volts and amps on it, and allow the charge to pass to the lowest battery first, then to the less full one, charging them both eventually. But I would recommend you get a charger once you add an amp to the system, you may lower the battery(s) and need it to bring them back up to a sufficient level and keep them there. A battery can only absorb about 10 to 15 amps per hour max (each). But a small maintainer isn't going to desulfate your batteries. A smart charger may not have the higher amps but it does have a unique wavelength and will exercise the batteries sufficiently. I have a PulseTech.
 
The best reason I can tell you to do this yourself, is that when your out on the lake and it is acting wrong after a dealer install, you won't know why. Install it yourself, learn why you did what, and you will know how to use it. The reason the price gets larger and the job gets bigger is because your planning for the future, not because your adding a simple battery and switch. If it is just insurance you want, then just add a second battery and a simple 1/off/2 switch. If you want to install something to help with additional upgrades, then you spend a tad bit more but add time and effort to the install to make it simple. Plenty of threads with diagrams, I will give you the blue sea switch diagram and ACR you pictured as well as a simple switch diagram. They are easy to draw but a little harder to contort in a narrow gunwale interior to install. I can tell you too, that there are other considerations. Remember that you need to check the electrolyte level in your batteries frequently. Also remember that a battery that never gets exercise isn't going to last long, so using it is important. Ok, here are a couple diagrams for consideration...let's start small, here is what you have...
View attachment 33454
Here is the simple perko style 1/off/2 switch. Oh, the combine, or both setting is for emergencies and you shouldn't use that unless you have a dead bank. Some guys want to use that and it is defeating the purpose of having backup, running a risk of using a bad battery, and other issues.
View attachment 33455
Here is the blue sea and acr without any additional features. Note that all diagrams don't show needed or recommended fuses. Note that the ACR is on the battery side of the switch. You can also install the ACR on the load side. There is a difference and what you want it to do is something you have to decide. If the dealer does it, you won't know what he did or how it works. We can explain the difference and the details of this to you.
View attachment 33456
Here is the same setup with the ACR on the load side.
View attachment 33457
Here is an ACR explanation page I did that helps to understand how to get what you want out of it.
View attachment 33458
I wanted the most out of my system. I added ground and load buses at the battery compartment, as well as a switch and ground bus at the helm. That way adding or removing any equipment was easy in the future. Here is my electrical system. Note that chargers aren't shown in all diagrams and that leads to another discussion for another thread.
View attachment 33459

@Scottintexas To the FAQ please!!

Awesome post @txav8r
 
Well maybe I will give this a shot. I just don't want to screw anything up. I am comfortable mechanically but electrically I am not good.

You sound exactly like I did before I approached this! The reality is this is a very simple job....keep negative and positive straight is all you need to do....then follow the wiring diagram on the box! Helped me learn and feel much more comfortable with wiring! Plus you have 3000 of your closest friends here willing to help out if you have a question!!! :winkingthumbsup"
 
@jlcj7 I use dual bank changer and hook the leads up to each battery and turn the switch to off. I have a VSR same as ACR as well.
 
If i was to be conservative (to make sure i don't run out) how much red and black 4 gauge cable (and other wire) should i order?

I would put second battery next to the first and put the switch and ACR in the similar location
 
If i was to be conservative (to make sure i don't run out) how much red and black 4 gauge cable (and other wire) should i order?

I would put second battery next to the first and put the switch and ACR in the similar location

I used about 60' in total (about 30' each) in my install. But I ran a line of each up behind the helm and moved the batteries into the front of the compartment the original was installed in. Those runs alone were more than half of it right there. I can't imagine that you would need more than 10' each (20' total) and still would have plenty to move stuff around to organize that compartment a bit better for your needs.
 
If i was to be conservative (to make sure i don't run out) how much red and black 4 gauge cable (and other wire) should i order?

I would put second battery next to the first and put the switch and ACR in the similar location

I ordered 25 feet of both red and black to be safe when I installed my amp in my sx230.
 
Well, i think i will try to tackle this after all since everyone here has convinced me... I went and looked at the boat today and i think i see where i can mount the switch, ACR and negative bus bar. I am thinking here:
battery1-1.png


I traced the engine positive and negative wires and that seems straight forward... that only left are these other two wires (one pos, one neg) i am assuming they are for the accessories...

battery2-2.png

battery3-3.png

So do all accessories come into this one positive wire (i.e. stereo, blower, lights, bilge, etc...?

Also another question, when i run the power wire for the amp, does that get wired to the switch or directly to the house battery?

Thanks again for all the help from everyone...
 
also one other random question... what is this that is mounted to the wall location where i am putting the switch? you can see it also in the first pic i posted of where i am going to mount everything...

plug.jpg
 
Yep, all to that little wire.

Your amp should go to the switch. Or to a bus bar to the switch, if you are going to install bus bars (a small investment that pays off big in convenience, as you realize when you are trying to attach all of those wires to one little bolt...).
 
Ah, that? That is a thing. It is for the stuff.

(actually, I don't know on that last one)

The real reason for my comment: I forgot to add: you probably don't need to move the extinguisher. Just put the ACR below and the switch above and I bet the fit there just next to the extinguisher. But that wall you pick is ideal (where I put mine, and where the stock ones go in the 242's) because it is plywood behind it. Screws into really easily.
 
sorry another question... am i supposed to use 4 AWG or 4/0 AWG? for the battery cables?
 
also one other random question... what is this that is mounted to the wall location where i am putting the switch? you can see it also in the first pic i posted of where i am going to mount everything...

View attachment 33502
That is a blade fuse for your dash and accessories.
 
That panel where the fuse is is where I mounted my acr and switch, and bus bars for both of my installs.
 
@jlcj7 if you only intend a small stereo amp, 500 to 700W, and the amp manufacturer agrees, 4GA wire is large enough. But if you intend to run two Amps and not run new dedicated wire direct to battery, run 2GA. I ran 4 in the first boat but have two Amps in second, so 2ga there.
 
Currently i will only have a 300W amp (clarion XC1410)... I am looking to just be able to clearly hear the stereo when moving, but that said, i can see how this gets addicting and people keep going bigger ad bigger...

I think per the manual, they only suggest 10 gauge wire for amp... Based on your info here, i will use 4 gauge for batteries and switch...
 
I know i already mentioned i will tackle this project myself now (already ordered everything), but i heard back from another local shop who quoted me this:

"If you’re providing all the needed parts, it would be roughly 4 hours at $95/hour."

Im sure i will reach out for help, but for $300-$400 in labor, that is a lot of beer on the lake this summer...
 
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