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That is exactly right, and really not the best design, if you ask me.
When running on plane with the bow high up the amount of water that can accumulate in the back of the bilge/stern is enough to possibly swamp the engines' air intakes in all 1.8 boats when coming off of plane! - given the location of the OEM "bilge" pump (not in the bilge) in the center of the engine compartment...
I always thought it was just crazy how they do this...
YES it is, remember I was telling u I could hear a lot of water in the hull coming back after my whale shark experience. That’s when I did my boat inspection when I got home and noticed the OEM bilge is right in the middle of the engine box, and the engine box isn’t even sealed from the hull. Giant half moon tunnel in the back going straight into transom area. I don’t like that it’s not a separate compartment sealed off. A friend of mine swamped his LS2000 in Kalalau Valley when he was coming back out from beaching it dropping campers off in 2-4’ shore break. Before he could make it back out he took one over the bow and flooded the whole deck of the boat completely like 3’ of water in the boat all the way to the steering wheel. He was sitting in water to his chest. Of coarse the water drained into the hull through the compartments and out the scupper, but good thing the engine box was sealed up. He had no worries kept moving forward engines kept running and all the water drained out the boat.
I put in a second bilge pump direct wired to the battery. Its a float type switch so its always on. I put in this Johnson pump. The nice thing about Johnson is you can replace the motor of the pump if it goes bad. Do not use the long hose that comes with the pump. Get a smooth hose to drain the bilge. The Johnson has a weird flex hose that slows down the gpm of the pump. I used 3M 5200 sealant to put the pump in.
I put in a second bilge pump direct wired to the battery. Its a float type switch so its always on. I put in this Johnson pump. The nice thing about Johnson is you can replace the motor of the pump if it goes bad. Do not use the long hose that comes with the pump. Get a smooth hose to drain the bilge. The Johnson has a weird flex hose that slows down the gpm of the pump. I used 3M 5200 sealant to put the pump in.
That’s a nice pump and a float switch.
A smooth hose is indeed faster that ribbed. However, more prone to pinching (when accidentally bent).
I usually test my pump dry, just by turning the manual switcheroo/knob at the back of the case to make sure it’s running. I do not test with water, I probably should... So, I wouldn’t know if the hose was pinched somewhere. I used the ribbed hose, slower but less prone to pinching.
incidentally, my OEM clean-out tray hose (smooth) was pinched from factory, I had to shorten it to make it drain, but that’s for another thread, lol.
YES it is, remember I was telling u I could hear a lot of water in the hull coming back after my whale shark experience. That’s when I did my boat inspection when I got home and noticed the OEM bilge is right in the middle of the engine box, and the engine box isn’t even sealed from the hull. Giant half moon tunnel in the back going straight into transom area. I don’t like that it’s not a separate compartment sealed off. A friend of mine swamped his LS2000 in Kalalau Valley when he was coming back out from beaching it dropping campers off in 2-4’ shore break. Before he could make it back out he took one over the bow and flooded the whole deck of the boat completely like 3’ of water in the boat all the way to the steering wheel. He was sitting in water to his chest. Of coarse the water drained into the hull through the compartments and out the scupper, but good thing the engine box was sealed up. He had no worries kept moving forward engines kept running and all the water drained out the boat.
Please share your ocean faring stories with us, you are on the frontlines of this jet boating community, man. Not many here boat out in the open in the Pacific!
There was s guy called Captain Kev on the old site, but he became inactive.
Who knows, maybe he pissed of one of the Akua (Kanaloa?) and they made his Yamaha disappear.
Be careful out there!
Please share your ocean faring stories with us, you are on the frontlines of this jet boating community, man. Not many here boat out in the open in the Pacific!
There was s guy called Captain Kev on the old site, but he became inactive.
Who knows, maybe he pissed of one of the Akua (Kanaloa?) and they made his Yamaha disappear.
Be careful out there!
Aloha @swatski our Yammies aren’t the greatest boats for the open in rough water, but I always pick and choose the days that I do go out. They normally start off nice, but things can change in a heart beat out there. I love my old LS2000, and she’s taken me everywhere around my Island of Kauai and in a lot of ugly situations. She’s always gotten me back home safely, and that’s the main reason I had no problem getting another Yammy. I love my AR240 too, and she’ll take me my ohana(family) on all kinds of expeditions for sure. We have a small window of variable winds and no swell coming up on Tuesday the 21st, so we’ll be out there and i’ll Post up our adventure for sure.??
I went with series 148 hose from west marine and bought a roll of 16 gauge anchor marine grade duplex wire.
couldn't decide on a float switch so i just went with a rule-a-matic. should be here in time to do install and do some garage boating over the holiday weekend.
I went with series 148 hose from west marine and bought a roll of 16 gauge anchor marine grade duplex wire.
couldn't decide on a float switch so i just went with a rule-a-matic. should be here in time to do install and do some garage boating over the holiday weekend.
Will DP-8005 stick to the gelcoat on the bottom of the engine compartment?
Was planning to laminate a couple pieces of starboard together using the DP-8005 and some screws, then mount the float for the alarm to that. Just curious if the DP-8005 will be good to mount the starboard to the engine compartment floor. Also would use it to mount the base of the 2nd bilge pump to the floor as well if it's suited for that.
I can bolt the starboard to these, screw the float to the starboard and then 4200 the bottom plates of these brackets to the floor.
Would really like to avoid screwing into it if possible.
Get both Water alarms are cheap get a simple 9v battery operated model on amazon . You can get three for $20 just tested mine it’s been in the boat for the third season same battery . Zip tie it in the engine compartment with the sensor about 2” off the floor you will hear it loud and clear . From water sports I have 5 ballast pumps for various items I could probably drive for hours with a 4” hole in the boat if needed running the pumps. I still don't understand how a water alarm is not standard equipment in all boats.
I used a little piece of velcro to attach the water alarm to the side of the bilge at the bottom. Figured that way I could adjust it a little if needed, or just drop another velcro dot if I wanted to relocate...
You absolutely need both alarm and more pump. If you could have only one, I'd pick the alarm, because the pump without the alarm won't save you. You need to know there is a problem as early as possible, the pump helps mitigate the problem, but without the alarm you might be in the same spot in a few minutes if the water overwhelms the pump, so what use was more capacity? You need to be aware of the excess water first and foremost to start the clock on figuring out and fixing the problem, then more pumping power buys you longer survival time to fix it
Has anyone had water in the hull pulled the drain plug while in the water then have the boat get up on plane to drain water out ? This was common practice on my fathers clam Garvey no bilge pump needed as the rain water pooled up you pulled the plug while underway and the water would drain out. The thing that made it easy was the hull drain was in the boat. But for boaters that more their boats maybe it’s uncovered gets hit by a rainstorm the bilge pump is dead idle out jump in the water pull the drain plug power up empty the water jump back in the water install the drain plug.
Has anyone had water in the hull pulled the drain plug while in the water then have the boat get up on plane to drain water out ? This was common practice on my fathers clam Garvey no bilge pump needed as the rain water pooled up you pulled the plug while underway and the water would drain out. The thing that made it easy was the hull drain was in the boat. But for boaters that more their boats maybe it’s uncovered gets hit by a rainstorm the bilge pump is dead idle out jump in the water pull the drain plug power up empty the water jump back in the water install the drain plug.
I've done this in my fishing boat due to being out in a storm but I don't think that it's practical to even try in the Yamahas. First, you'd have to get in the water and go under water to remove the drain plug (some require a wrench)and then get back in the boat ultimately letting more water in. Then once you get on plane and suck all of the water out you'll have to get back in the water to reinstall the plug, a majority of us will be doing this blindly due to not living in the Bahamas where the water is crystal clear and run the risk of dropping the plug and putting yourself in a dangerous situation of possibly sinking your boat.
After a few bad storms rolled through our area and swamped our boat while it was in the slip I've taken it out and plowed to get all of the water into the transom area of the bilge to get water pumped out. The way Yamaha designed the deck and hull is not very good if you wet slip. The water drains out the scupper in most situations but if the channels that take it to the scupper are overwhelmed some water will leak into the bilge. The problem with that is that the hull design pools the water in the middle of the boat instead of the transom area around the bilge pump. Knowing this, once I leave the marina I get going slowly, bring the bow up and watch for water being pumped out of the bilge. Once it stops pumping I know that a majority of the water is out of the boat and spend the rest of my day enjoying being on the water.
Yes for the older models that have a loose drain bolt I would not attempt but for newer models that have the drain plug held in place as last resort maybe your scupper breaks and the bilge pump does not work you jump in the water and stuff a rag in the supper hole unscrew the plug get on plane and let it drain out, jump back in quickly screw it in. This would be strictly for emergency when there is no other option.
Totally understand but one thing to remember is that if there is any hole on the transom of your boat, whether it be a broken scupper or you hit something just keep it moving to syphon the water out. You should have enough time to drop someone at the dock(if you do it quick)to get the trailer in the water while you go back out to keep water out of the boat as long as the leak is not massive. Worst case, beach it and figure it out while not under extreme pressure.
Let me resurrect this old thread... I am about to install a secondary bilge pump. Built in float switch. I want to wire it like this...
Neg-back to battery Negative
Manual wire- to oem bilge pump positive wire
Auto wire- straight to the battery
