Adding Tow Valves, 2004 SX230 questions

[MOA_Chaser]

Since my port engine has been pretty temperamental lately, and we usually end up quite a ways from the launch when we go to the river, I think it's a good idea to finally install the tow valves so if something happens I don't have to limp back at no-wake speed. I had trouble getting the port engine to start when I was taking on water, and who knows if I would have made it back at no-wake speed while taking on water... and if it started raining, forget it!

So I was looking at the How to add a Shutoff Valve to your boat's cooling system thread and I was wondering if there is any real benefit to buying the Island Racing valves at ~$25 each vs. the (I'm assuming) much cheaper brass valves from Lowes/Home Depot etc.?

I just did the scupper this weekend and noticed that a lot of the screw holes were stripped out of the fiberglass under the cleanout tray, so I'm planning on filling them all with epoxy and re-drilling them while I'm doing this mod. It sounds like putting the valves there, accessible from the access ports in the cleanout tray, is the way to go...

 

[jcyamaharider]

IF you can get your arms through the hole that is a perfect place to put them. That is where I put mine and my ballast shut off valve. Just some cheap insurance in my opinion. I hope I never have to use them but if I do then they are there.

 

[Gym]

I put mine in the same place. The island racing valves seem to be fine. There was concern a few years ago that they may not be heat tolerant but time has proved that wrong. I got stainless steel valves off the net. The whole valve was stainless including the handle. Many brass or stainless steel valves have a regular steel handle that can rust.

Another consideration. I would try to get a valve with a yellow handle. No, this is not "Queer Eye For The Straight Guy". The reason being is the valves will move slightly from their original installed position so sometimes you or someone else has to look through the access port to see the valve or see what position it's in (opened or closed). It makes it much easier to spot with that yellow handle in the unlit bilge. Also partially wrap your valve body with some 1 inch pipe insulation. Fasten it on with two tie wraps. That will insulate it from bouncing around in there when you go airborne. I'll try to find my valve source if you need it.

 

[tdonoughue]

I used ball valves from Lowes on mine. Big brass ones.

The only issue I had was getting ones the right size to fit. I don't recall what size I ended up on (don't think I have it written up here), but it did require some extra runs to the store to get ones that would fit.

Alas, I have red handles....

 

[MOA_Chaser]

It's time for me to do this, and I took off the cleanout tray to patch the several stripped screw holes. In my boat, the port hose is accessible from the access port, but the starboard hose is routed to the far side of the cleanout port. I don't think there would be a problem with adding a few feet of hose to reroute the hose under the access port. Agree?

 

[jcyamaharider]

It's time for me to do this, and I took off the cleanout tray to patch the several stripped screw holes. In my boat, the port hose is accessible from the access port, but the starboard hose is routed to the far side of the cleanout port. I don't think there would be a problem with adding a few feet of hose to reroute the hose under the access port. Agree?

I didn't add any hose to access thru the access ports. Just cut and splice in.

 

[MOA_Chaser]

I didn't add any hose to access thru the access ports. Just cut and splice in.

I can't. The starboard hose is on the other side of the cleanout port.

 

[jcyamaharider]

Oh yeah...Seen this on my phone and didn't see what year boat.

 

[Julian]

Or just stick a pair of these in your glove/tool box....

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-hose-pinch-pliers/p-00947051000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

 

[MOA_Chaser]

Nah, the less clutter the better.

Just got back from Home Depot, they have SharkBite valves that have the male barbed adapters built... fewer places to leak! But take your ruler, these are made for PEX tubing, and they must use the same measurement system as the lumber industry. I had to buy 1" valves for my 3/4" I.D. hose.

 

[Gym]

I didn't think your boat design was different than my 06 @MOA_Chaser. I was also able to just cut and splice. Nice find on the valve. You could plasti dip the handle in yellow if you need to. That handle doesn't look stainless but I'm guessing you're strictly fresh water" You still may want to spray the handle and nut with T-9.

 

[MOA_Chaser]

Ugh, I didn't think of the stainless. We're working towards a hopeful move to the Gulf and I've been trying to do it right. Maybe I can find a replacement handle and nut in stainless steel... they were only $12 each so I can afford to upgrade them!
http://www.downwindmarine.com/Levers-amp-Nuts-Apollo-Ball-Valves-Stainless-p-90891125.html

I bought a few feet of 3/4" I.D. heater hose from Advance Auto so I can route them where I need to. I don't think I'll need to move the port side hose, but my plan is to make them both so that the lever is directly under the access port, so color won't be a big deal; just reach down and they'll be right there.

 

[MOA_Chaser]

I'm returning all the stuff I bought to do this except the clamps and the hose. I decided that I want to do it right, once so I want to go stainless. Well, the price for stainless ball valves and fittings is ridiculous... so I went to eBay. I found a seller direct from China... 3/4" stainless ball valves: $7.38 ea. 3/4" NPT/20mm tail fitting for each ball valve: $4.99 ea.

I'm able to go all stainless, both sides, for under $50. Yeah it will take a few weeks to get here, but I can live with a pair of vise grips for the time being. The best I could find for a stainless ball valve before this was $22, and each barb end was $15 each! Ouch.

 

[cwoav8r]

Thank you @MOA_Chaser ... great write up! I will most likely copy your install soon...

 

[cwoav8r]

Uhhh... wait a minute. I hope I am wrong, and someone correct me if I am... are the shut off valves connected to the thermostat bypass lines?

 

[MOA_Chaser]

The impellers force water up through the hose, there is an "L" fitting that comes up into the bilge. Each one of those hoses go directly into the engine compartment... where they go to the well-known "Y" fitting after which many people put their shutoff valves.

I chose to put mine under the cleanout hatch so that I could flush it while sitting in saltwater, if I ever find cause to do that.

 

[buckbuck]

ummm...I am confused. What is that valve to the left that is going to the through hull fitting?

 

[MOA_Chaser]

That's the port engine shutoff valve.

 

[cwoav8r]

Okay, just checking... on my boat those fittings are to let the hot water that bypasses the thermostat out of the boat... my water pickup is closer to the floor of the bilge on the left side of each pump.

 

[cwoav8r]

On the my '08 Cooling water comes in item #2:



Thermostat bypass goes out #17: