Another 2007 SX230 MR1 ISSUES

[Jfannin]

Hello
Plan on knock off my list of needs fixing for boat. I’ve got a few thing that’s needs attention so one at a time I hope to mark each thing off as fixed.

ISSUE #1. OIL ISSUE. (Fixed)


ISSUE #2. Port side No wake mode.
ISSUE #3. Throttle and RPM Balance.
ISSUE #4 Port side No key warning tones

ISSUE#1
2nd year with this 2007 sx230 dual MR1 HO. All good last year other then both motors sound a little rough to me, sounds like bb’s bouncing around but read this motor always sound like crap. Port side has noticeable exhaust buildup on the back of the boat around the exhaust port, so port smoked some. The port side sounded worse in my opinion, more bb’s but not by much if any actually. All oil looked fine when I bought it and was fine all last year. Another thing is the port sides pisser is much weaker then the Starboard side. Pisser lines all cleaned. Nothing major found.

Boat was winterized last year by flushing / running boat camper Antifreeze through them via water pump and 5g bucket. 3 Gallons both Starboard and Port side.

New season. Did oil change at the house yesterday before first trip out. Boat fired right up, weak port pisser like before.
Oil change done by hooking up to hose adapter thing. TURNED HOSE ON AND THEN TURNED MOTOR ON (found later it’s not like a normal boat motor). RAN 5 min then motor off, then water off. After running I pumped oil out with extractor. Pulled 2 quarts from Starboard pulled like 6 quarts from port (was like wtf). Changed Filters oil looked fine. NO MILKSHAKE AT THIS POINT. Saved oil though, Will check it tonight…
Added 2.5 quarts both port and starboard side. Level showed good on both sides.

Fired motor up again to and ran for 5 min just like before (water, start, run 5min, motor off, water off.) Oil levels both sides good, and oil looked good.

Shortly after oil change yesterday we took the boat out. ? runs fine just like last year.
Checked oil again on the water before running and after running for 5 mins and showed good at just below the full mark, same as at the house looked fine. After that we enjoyed the boat all day( hours) probably ran an 1/8 tank of fuel.

Before we left I checked the oil levels again and the levels were the same, just under full on the stick when threaded in. At this point I noticed the PORT side looked a bit MILKY. Then explained to the wife what BOAT stands for

SO CRAP… I work all weekend so next week I plan on looking to find the issue. Wondering a few things of course that I’ve read on here about [HASH=412]#3,[/HASH] exhaust, or manifold.
my self wondering about the pisser issue causing it instead… hopefully a new head or motor isn’t in order but we’ll see.

ANYTHING STAND OUT TO YOU ALL? CECK LIST YOU WOULD USE?

 

[84rzv500r]

ummmm engine on protocol is more like this:

hook up hose with valve off... start motor for 1 min then turn hose valve on... run till warm 5 min or so.... TURN Hose Valve OFF wait 1 min or so then turn engine off... disconnect hose...


Turning water on before engine running and engine off before turning hose off risks water ingestion into the cylinders

 

[Jfannin]

ummmm engine on protocol is more like this:

hook up hose with valve off... start motor for 1 min then turn hose valve on... run till warm 5 min or so.... TURN Hose Valve OFF wait 1 min or so then turn engine off... disconnect hose...


Turning water on before engine running and engine off before turning hose off risks water ingestion into the cylinders

Yes I found a thread saying something about that. I’m very use to Evinrude outboards where you hook up muffs, water on, and then start. So found out the correct way post oil change.

So since I did the water and run process wrong what issues might I be looking at?
just simple need to do another and correct oil change or possibly something major?

 

[Julian]

Yes I found a tread saying something about that. I’m very use to Evinrude outboards where you hook up muffs, water on, and then start. So found out the correct way post oil change.

So since I did the water and run process wrong what issues might I be looking at?
just simple need to do another and correct oil change or possibly something major?

Depends how long you had the water running with engine off. If a long time that could be your cause.

Port side pisser is always weaker...it has further to travel.

I'd start with an oil change and see if your oil turns milky again, then proceed from there.

 

[Jfannin]

Depends how long you had the water running with engine off. If a long time that could be your cause.

Port side pisser is always weaker...it has further to travel.

I'd start with an oil change and see if your oil turns milky again, then proceed from there.

I’d say the water wasn’t on no more then 60 sec - 120 sec, just long enough for me to climb into the boat and then start it. Now that 60 seconds or so happened more then once.

I’ll get on the oil change “done correctly this time” asap and see if it fixes the milky look.

 

[scokill]

If you have milky oil you should be changing the oil multiple times like now, no time to wait....over and over until it's not milky. You would change, run on the hose on/off properly for 15 min or so, check again and start the whole process over. I would also take out the plugs and turn over to see if any liquid is coming out. You may need to change the plugs too at some point if they are fouled.

 

[Jfannin]

If you have milky oil you should be changing the oil multiple times like now, no time to wait....over and over until it's not milky. You would change, run on the hose on/off properly for 15 min or so, check again and start the whole process over. I would also take out the plugs and turn over to see if any liquid is coming out. You may need to change the plugs too at some point if they are fouled.

If you have milky oil you should be changing the oil multiple times like now, no time to wait....over and over until it's not milky. You would change, run on the hose on/off properly for 15 min or so, check again and start the whole process over. I would also take out the plugs and turn over to see if any liquid is coming out. You may need to change the plugs too at some point if they are fouled.

Got home from work and changed it 4 times and the oil is still gray in color. Each time I used about a 1/2g of oil.
first 2 times used the water hose after starting it. Second two time tried zero water hose. Let it run for about 90 seconds give or take until warm and still got milky gray oil.
cant change it any more since I’m out of oil.

Kinda thought I’d see better looking oil after a couple changes. Definitely thought 4 would have looked like new oil.

 

[scokill]

Got home from work and changed it 4 times and the oil is still gray in color. Each time I used about a 1/2g of oil.
first 2 times used the water hose after starting it. Second two time tried zero water hose. Let it run for about 90 seconds give or take until warm and still got milky gray oil.
cant change it any more since I’m out of oil.

Kinda thought I’d see better looking oil after a couple changes. Definitely thought 4 would have looked like new oil.

You should only get 2-3 quarts each change. It may take 10 changes or more. Theoretically you will have between 15-25% of the original water content that was in the oil after 4 changes as you only remove a fraction of the oil each time. Oil is cheaper than a new engine.

 

[Jfannin]

You should only get 2-3 quarts each change. It may take 10 changes or more. Theoretically you will have between 15-25% of the original water content that was in the oil after 4 changes as you only remove a fraction of the oil each time. Oil is cheaper than a new engine.

Oh ok that’s good news I guess then lol. Was thinking it was a bigger issue, let’s hope not.
In that case then I may try and get to the actual drain plug to insure as much as possible is removed all at once. I have Monday off so…
Thanks

 

[Jfannin]

Well great new, oil looks good ?
Took and done a few changes yesterday for a total of about 2 gallons of oil and the oil looks new with no milkiness.
I took and did the oil changes without running water at all. Did it with you short and quick run times to avoid over heating but also so I new the oil would / should clean up. Then after doing the changes to where the oil looked new I then ran the boat for about 5 minutes with water “after starting it first this time lol”. To see if I had a water oil mix issue. After 5 minutes the oil still looked new with no milky look to it at all.

Big thinks to each of you for the help and advice. Truly appreciated ?

 

[scokill]

Well great new, oil looks good ?
Took and done a few changes yesterday for a total of about 2 gallons of oil and the oil looks new with no milkiness.
I took and did the oil changes without running water at all. Did it with you short and quick run times to avoid over heating but also so I new the oil would / should clean up. Then after doing the changes to where the oil looked new I then ran the boat for about 5 minutes with water “after starting it first this time lol”. To see if I had a water oil mix issue. After 5 minutes the oil still looked new with no milky look to it at all.

Big thinks to each of you for the help and advice. Truly appreciated ?

That's awesome. When I bought mine new I had no idea of anything to do with these boats. Even after reading the manual things just aren't clear as you are drinking from a firehose. I joined the other forum a little before I bought my boat and it saved me a lot of heartache and money. I would just keep an eye on the oil after each outing for awhile.

 

[Jfannin]

ISSUE #2. Port side No wake mode.
ISSUE #3. Throttle and RPM Balance.
ISSUE #4 Port side No key warning tones


So now that the oil issue has been fixed “Thanks Again” I plan on figuring out a few other things. Before messing with them I did an annual plug change, so all new NGK Iridium CR9IEX plugs (more later).

Issue #2 The port side No wake isn’t kicking in. When I hold the switch down the gages light up on the tach but then it fails to bump the rpms up like the starboard side does. Now the idle on both motors are about the same at like 1500rpms if I remember right
( don’t hold me to this, I didn’t take notes while playing on the water, petty sure it was 1500 rpms though) Now I’ve read that if the idle is to high the No Wake won’t engage. Both Starboard and port idle the same so I don’t think it’s the idle because the Starboard works, Port doesn’t. I believe the Port side No Wake Switch is fine because the indicator lights work on the tach when I try to engage it.

Things I did, yesterday I changed the plugs just because it needed done for annual maintenance. I also decided to go from the stock plugs to the NGK Iridium CR9IEX plugs. (Old plugs looked good) I did this for a couple reasons, one being in hopes to possibly fix the No wake from a smoother idle(probably won’t but hay lol ). Another reason is, I’ve read they help smooth out the motors some, but the main reason is in hopes to fix my #3 issue, the running RPM difference between the throttle levers without messing with the throttle cables or set points
( more fixing of this later).

Quick issue 3 summary. Both motors idle the same, but the port side requires more throttle for the rpms to be equal at running speeds. If Throttle levers are even rpms are off. Port Side would be about 1000 lower. I’ll take and check idle, low cruse, wot rpms for certain now that I’ve changed the plugs.

Something else that might be causing the No Wake to not engage is Issue [HASH=432]#4,[/HASH] when I turn my Port side key it doesn’t alarm (3 tones warning) like the starboard side. Kinda wonder if this could cause the No Wake to not work. Haven’t read anything that says it would but… Anyone know if this could be leading to the No Wake issue? I’m sure to fix the key alarm issue I’ll just have to get new very costly switches (Checked and all connections are good).

So before I go and change or adjusted on anything I hope the plugs fix everything lol.
Could you imagine if they did lol. Now given I realize it probably won’t but one thing at a time.

Your thoughts and replies are always appreciated ?

 

[84rzv500r]

off the top of my head...

#2 start with YDS and see what the computer thinks is goin on with wake mode... the wiring is likely ok as the three lights come on... the RPMs come up when commanded as the ecu tells the servo (maybe the servo is Tango Uniform) add more air and the ecu fattens the injectors a little... the manual has some settings based on ambient air however i think like 1650-1670 RPMS is where I settled... in any event YDS will start to take the mystery out of the situation...

#3 throttle cable adjustment is touchy... one of the cables stretched or loosened up or the other one has gunk in the little groove on the throttle body..

#4 may be related to #2 but the little 12V buzzer could just gone bad... on that side... or the wire is loose...

I didn't put the buzzer on my conversions... I just use the Fuel pump and the tach's zeroing and indications the engines are ready to go...

ROBB235 figured out that these engines are pretty simple and only need a few things to work...

 

[Jfannin]

Good info on the YDS, just watched a video on it, Didn’t know anything like that was readily available. Figured only the boat places had to cool toys. I’ll be ordering that for sure, will come in super handy.

I thought the Key / switch buzzed was actually a part of the key / switch, thought that was the black box on the backside of the switch and one piece?

 

[84rzv500r]

on the skis there is a little 12V beeper in the dash and it hangs off the a black/blue blue/black 2 pin connector... that same wire is in boat harness unfortunately the boat service manuals are not what the ski manuals are... the black box between start buttons is the bilge switch according to the manual.. a search of the 2005/6 SX230 service manual does not document a buzzer/or beeper