Anti seize on plugs yes or no

[davel501]

I also read the NGK bulletin some time ago. It seems to me we, as a group, have encountered a couple dozen broken plugs due to threads sticking or rusting but, I don't believe, we've ever encountered a broken plug due to over torqueing with anti seize. I agree with @jetboater4life in that NGK is only trying to defer blame on the user as Yamaha did with the clean out plug issue.

Any broken plugs on the 1800s?

 

[txav8r]

I have not heard of a broken plug on any 1.8L. But I have read about some and seen the pics, of VERY RUSTY plugs. I don't want that in my engine and the solution at least for me, is anti-seize. And as many of us have said, don't use a torque wrench if you use anti-seize.

I am guessing that probably north of 50% of the 1.8L owners use anti-seize just based on previous forum practices of using it on the MR-1's. But I asked that question back when I started shopping for another boat. The majority of guys use it was my consensus.

 

[mtnv900]

Thanks to everyone for the great discussion. I think i might experiment and do one engine with anti seize and the other without and see what happens at the end of the year. I dont expect any problems either way as long as you are changing them every year.

 

[davel501]

Thanks to everyone for the great discussion. I think i might experiment and do one engine with anti seize and the other without and see what happens at the end of the year. I dont expect any problems either way as long as you are changing them every year.

My only rusty plugs were after using antiseize.

 

[txav8r]

I am guessing that out of al

My only rusty plugs were after using antiseize.

So your saying you have not used anti-seize on plugs in the same engine and had zero rust?

 

[davel501]

I am guessing that out of al

So your saying you have not used anti-seize on plugs in the same engine and had zero rust?

Correct. Too many variables to blame antiseize but definitely does not prevent surface rust on the plugs.

 

[txav8r]

I have had zero rust using anti-seize, and I have used it exclusively.

 

[Lawson2479]

I also read the NGK bulletin some time ago. It seems to me we, as a group, have encountered a couple dozen broken plugs due to threads sticking or rusting but, I don't believe, we've ever encountered a broken plug due to over torqueing with anti seize. I agree with @jetboater4life in that NGK is only trying to defer blame on the user as Yamaha did with the clean out plug issue.

@Gym Well, The beginning of this season it did happen. I have always used anti seize on the plugs and normally torque them to specs with no problems. but this year installing new plugs, one sheared off in #3 cylinder. I posted this predicament to the forum and with the forums guidance I was able to remove the broken barrel without issue. I have not had any rusted plugs. All the prior plugs where removed and changed with no problems. This was a brand new plug that gave away just as I felt certain the torque wrench was going to click. I now will go back to the old way of 1/4 to 1/2 after finger tight because the nausea and sphincter tightening feeling of a sheared plug is not worth torquing about. lol

 

[Gym]

@Gym Well, The beginning of this season it did happen. I have always used anti seize on the plugs and normally torque them to specs with no problems. but this year installing new plugs, one sheared off in #3 cylinder. I posted this predicament to the forum and with the forums guidance I was able to remove the broken barrel without issue. I have not had any rusted plugs. All the prior plugs where removed and changed with no problems. This was a brand new plug that gave away just as I felt certain the torque wrench was going to click. I now will go back to the old way of 1/4 to 1/2 after finger tight because the nausea and sphincter tightening feeling of a sheared plug is not worth torquing about. lol

Ah, I stand corrected @Lawson2479. I do remember reading your post. I guess I missed the fact that you were installing your plug rather than removing it which is when the majority of these issues happen.

 

[Magic]

@Gym I now will go back to the old way of 1/4 to 1/2 after finger tight because the nausea and sphincter tightening feeling of a sheared plug is not worth torquing about. lol

I see what you did there.....very nice!

 

[maboat]

Correct. Too many variables to blame antiseize but definitely does not prevent surface rust on the plugs.

I would tend to agree. I suspect salt water is the biggest factor causing rust, not the lack of anti-seize

I have had zero rust using anti-seize, and I have used it exclusively.

I suspect that boating in fresh water exclusively has something to do with it

 

[davel501]

I would tend to agree. I suspect salt water is the biggest factor causing rust, not the lack of anti-seize


I suspect that boating in fresh water exclusively has something to do with it

I am at least 1000 miles in any direction from salt water. I do wet slip and park my boat outside all winter so there could be higher moisture. Could have just been a bad batch of plugs too. I will have to look at my plugs when I change them this year to see if there is any rust...if I ever get the boat back from the dealer.

 

[maboat]

I think the bigger question is why is Cylinder #3 the problem child? With or without anti-seize, the broken plugs are most frequent on Cyl#3 on the MR1 engine. Why?

 

[itsdgm]

I think the bigger question is why is Cylinder #3 the problem child? With or without anti-seize, the broken plugs are most frequent on Cyl#3 on the MR1 engine. Why?

When an engine stops there will always be intake and exhaust valves left open. More than likely our engines come to rest more often with the #3 cylinder exhaust valves open. This leaves the cylinder exposed to the moisture in the waterbox. I fire the engines no less than a dozen times after use to blow out as much of the water in the exhaust as possible. But even with that, there was still water in there when I removed it during my scupper valve replacement. It's pretty much impossible to remove all of the water in the exhaust system on these boats.

 

[Julian]

When an engine stops there will always be intake and exhaust valves left open. More than likely our engines come to rest more often with the #3 cylinder exhaust valves open. This leaves the cylinder exposed to the moisture in the waterbox. I fire the engines no less than a dozen times after use to blow out as much of the water in the exhaust as possible. But even with that, there was still water in there when I removed it during my scupper valve replacement. It's pretty much impossible to remove all of the water in the exhaust system on these boats.

The next mod in the making...."water box drain"

 

[maboat]

When an engine stops there will always be intake and exhaust valves left open.

Understood

It's pretty much impossible to remove all of the water in the exhaust system on these boats

Understood

More than likely our engines come to rest more often with the #3 cylinder exhaust valves open.

I don't understand this. Why would #3 be more likely than any other?

 

[itsdgm]

Understood
Understood
I don't understand this. Why would #3 be more likely than any other?

Don't know. Just a theory. It doesn't make sense why it would do that, but it would be one explanation for the isolated rust. Still a mystery.

 

[jonw9]

I don't have much to add to the Yamaha debate, but my Rotax manual says to apply Loctite 767 anti-seize to the spark plugs and also has a mention of "re-installing" so they seem to be ok with not damaging the crush rings or whatever.

Calls for NGK DCPR8E

 

[SCSTWG]

I am guessing that probably north of 50% of the 1.8L owners use anti-seize just based on previous forum practices of using it on the MR-1's. But I asked that question back when I started shopping for another boat. The majority of guys use it was my consensus.

To clarify Mel, you mean 50% of forum members....correct? As with most forums, the forum members (or active members) represent a small percentage of the actual owners. I have no idea how many Yamaha boat owners are engaged in the forums (please share with me your thoughts on this), but let's assume it is 10% of total Yamaha owners that are aware of this information. That would mean only 5% of total owner's are using the anti-seize plus some non-forum participants that have enough mechanical knowledge to do so. I agree that it should be used, but just highlighting that if the above logic is correct, the vast majority are not using anti-seize.

 

[txav8r]

@SCSTWG , you are correct, @Bruce has said only about 5% of Yamaha owners participate in any forum. For clarity, that means that about 95% are without the experience and guidance of either jetboaters.net or other forums! And yes, I speak if only my reading of both the previous and here...I have no way of knowing what the other 95% do...but based also on what a new member says after joining, they just didn't know what is common practice among the enlightened. We save folks money on practices, maintenance, and
parts, by helping them fully understand their boats. But we entice them to spend money to add fun accessories and mods. It is always a trade off isn't it?