Anyone know how to bypass the Hatch Interlock Switch so the engine will run?

[joe coleman]

I have an LX210, 2003, working fine and today, in the middle of the river, the right engine would not turn over. NOTHING, no noise at all. Does not "feel" like a starter issue. Left works fine, right does nothing? I've had to do some cable work where I had to remove the Hatch Interlock Switches several times (wow, what a pain) and I think one might be bad.
Is there a was to bypass or override them?
Thanks

 

[joe coleman]

I dug and found this old post.

Can someone confirm this will work:
"While it's not a good idea to bypass the safety switches, if you insist on doing it, here is the correct way:

There are four wires to each switch. The colors below refer to one switch, repeat the procedure for the second switch if needed.

- Two brown wires to the switch (which disables the starter when the lid is open). To bypass the switch, connect the two brown wires to each other.

- A White wire and a Black wire (Which kills the spark when the lid is open). To bypass the switch, cut these two wires and leave them disconnected (Tape off the ends to make sure they don't touch anything)."

Thanks

 

[mss135]

I have a 2001 LS2000. The procedure is correct for the cutoff switches for the cleanout port. However, there is also the neutral switch in the remote control to check if the procedure does not work (or both as the cause which is a little less likely).

 

[joe coleman]

Thanks
Question: Any idea how I check if I have "guessed" which is the bad switch? I'm just assuming the cutoff switch is bad and I'm assuming the neutral switch is good since the left engine works fine.
How do I check?

 

[mss135]

Some have checked the switches for adjustment by placing a coin on top of the switch and close the hatch. Then try to start. My recollection is that the switch on each side effects that engine. So the port switch effects the port engine but I am not positive. So by your description, it should be the starboard switch which is not working properly. One way to check the starter alone is to take a jumper cable and connect the red jumper to the red wire where it is connected to the side of the starter and then tough the positive terminal of your battery. Be prepared for it to crank and it may even start if the key is on and the safety switch lanyard is connected. If that works, the starter is good. If that doesn't help, it could be the starter or a bad ground. You can check the ground by Using the negative jumper cable and connect it to the engine anywhere on metal or the back of the starter and connect the other end to negative battery terminal. Then turn the key and see anything happens. There is a starter solenoid in the electrical box at the transom which can go bad as well as a fuse in the box on the effected engine.

 

[Billtex2000]

 

[joe coleman]

Thanks everyone for the help
I made the suggested fix and still right engine not starting so my guess was wrong.
I followed these instructions " One way to check the starter alone is to take a jumper cable and connect the red jumper to the red wire where it is connected to the side of the starter and then tough the positive terminal of your battery." and found out the starter is not good.
Guess I'll buy a new starter and replace the right one.
Anyone know the model number and/or a good YouTube video on how to do it?
Joe

 

[mss135]

The good news is that it is the starboard side. Much easier to change. Disconnect the battery (ies) terminal. There are two (2) bolts that hold the starter in place. The starter is located under the exhaust manifold. You probably cannot see it but you were able to get the jumper cable on the positive terminal sticking out of the starter. The two bolts are at the tail end of the starter one high and one low. One of these bolts probably has the negative terminal that provides the ground. You will need to make sure that you reconnect this ground cable when finished. The starter moves toward the transom to come out slightly before you can wiggle the starter out. Sometimes, the starter is stuck but you can use a regular screwdriver to assist in prying it out. There is not a lot of room and this requires some manipulation. Grease the tip of the new starter and the o-rings and push the new one in until the bolt holes line up. Gentle effort to push it back in as you are pushing it into a starter drive or ring gear contained in the mag side. Then reconnect the positive terminal to the starter and then the battery and give it a try.

 

[Julian]

Thanks everyone for the help
I made the suggested fix and still right engine not starting so my guess was wrong.
I followed these instructions " One way to check the starter alone is to take a jumper cable and connect the red jumper to the red wire where it is connected to the side of the starter and then tough the positive terminal of your battery." and found out the starter is not good.
Guess I'll buy a new starter and replace the right one.
Anyone know the model number and/or a good YouTube video on how to do it?
Joe

I assume you are certain that pump isn't jammed?

 

[joe coleman]

The impeller is not jammed.

I've ordered the starter and I'll get to install Saturday afternoon - thanks everyone for the assist.

 

[joe coleman]

Well the plot thickens.
A buddy recommended I check the Starter Solenoid Relay before replacing the starter and it was bad.
I bought a new one, did the install and now power goes to the engine and the starter works.
HOWEVER
both engines are now not starting. They turn over and seem to want to start at the beginning of the cranking process, but no joy.
I've tried new spark plugs, starter fluid and I'll also try replacing the fuel filters once they arrive but after that, I'm at a loss.
Why would they BOTH fail to start like that when there was never anything wrong with the port one in the first place?
Any suggestions would be welcomed.

 

[Beachbummer]

Disconnect dead man switch? Maybe in your troubleshooting it ended up not closing right?

 

[joe coleman]

OK, sounds like a plan.
Some research suggests If I cut the white wires on the kill switch, it will bypass and I should get spark to the plugs.
Can anyone confirm this or is it better to test and see if I get spark now?
and
If yes, how is that done?
Thanks

 

[joe coleman]

Sorry, silly me
buy an Inline Spark Plug Tester and follow directions
got it

 

[Beachbummer]

Instead of cutting it, just unplug it from the boat. Wires intact and same effect

 

[joe coleman]

Great idea - how silly of me

OK - white wires were disconnected and NADA, NOTHING, ZILCH..... Same as before, both engines turn and turn but don't catch.

I've got that Inline Spark Plug tester arriving tomorrow and I'll confirm spark is getting to the engine
AND
I've got two new fuel filters arriving also which I'll install but after that, I'm at a loss.

Anyone with a good idea, PLEASE send it

Thanks

One lost Joe.......

 

[mss135]

Curious if you had any spark on either engine when you tried your tester. On mine, the positive 12v comes through a plug on the starboard side near the transom. One for each motor. From that plug it goes to the clean out hatch switches and then back in through the same plug to the control box where you replaced the starter solenoid. The plugs can have poor connections, corrode, and even get hot and burn out the wire. On mine, the connections are white. I have had to bypass some connection in the plug by connecting the wires directly. I think what is going on with your boat is odd as you were using it. One motor quit. You identified a bad solenoid, but now nothing runs. That could be difficult to sort out.

 

[mss135]

I wrote solenoid but I meant relay.

 

[joe coleman]

Thanks for the input.

The kill switch I disconnected the white wires on is just below the throttle control handle. It is the one you clip the lanyard to.
I am getting no spark to either engine.
Both engines turn over well so the relay swap out worked.

I'm still at a loss.

 

[mss135]

The circled plug is on the starboard side of the boat near the transom in the engine compartment. Pull it apart. Make sure the connections look good. Nothing is burnt or melted. Clean with wD40 and push back together and see if it helps.