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Bilge Pump - Is this the right one......is there a better one that fits in the stock location?

2kwik4u

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I think I have the correct part, but would like someone else to look at this and verify it for me before I click go on it. Boat is a 2017 AR190.

Part #1 on this layout. Part Number - F1C-U8360-10-00

Secondarily, is it best to go with stock replacement, or is there another unit that fits in the stock location that performs better?

Stock one has been working well for me the last few seasons. Unsure if mine is just clogged, or burnt up, or otherwise malfunctioning, but want to go ahead and get one in hand so I can reduce down time once I figure out what the problem is. Boat RARELY lives on the water overnight (6 nights in 4 years), so the stock functionality is fine for me. Don't need or care to install a secondary in the "true" bilge, and I'm
 

Julian

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I think I have the correct part, but would like someone else to look at this and verify it for me before I click go on it. Boat is a 2017 AR190.

Part #1 on this layout. Part Number - F1C-U8360-10-00

Secondarily, is it best to go with stock replacement, or is there another unit that fits in the stock location that performs better?

Stock one has been working well for me the last few seasons. Unsure if mine is just clogged, or burnt up, or otherwise malfunctioning, but want to go ahead and get one in hand so I can reduce down time once I figure out what the problem is. Boat RARELY lives on the water overnight (6 nights in 4 years), so the stock functionality is fine for me. Don't need or care to install a secondary in the "true" bilge, and I'm
Have you popped the current one off its base to see if it is clogged with something? (annual maintenance item).
If mine was dead, I would replace mine with a float switch one vs a back pressure pump.
 

2kwik4u

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Have you popped the current one off its base to see if it is clogged with something? (annual maintenance item).
If mine was dead, I would replace mine with a float switch one vs a back pressure pump.
I have not checked that yet, it's on my list of first things to check when I get started troubleshooting. Wanted to have a new one on hand to short circuit delays to getting on the water. I assume it just pulls/clicks out of the base right?

Have a reccomendation on a float switch style that fits in the stock location?
 

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2kwik4u

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@Julian ended up being a failed pump. Filled the bilge and the pump just clicks. Pulled the pump out and held it in my hand, still just clicks.

Local dealership is put of stock, so I picked up one of these from the local Bass Pro Store. Old one was a Rule 500gph, this a "Bass Pro Brand" 800gph. Figure if it gets me on the water for the weekend it'll be fine until I can research another one with an internal float switch instead of the "automatic" style. Was only $25. Feels cheap, but we'll see how it goes.


This has a different base. Anything I need to do to the threads when I screw the new base down with the existing screws? Silicone or Marine Adhesive? Just let it rip?
 

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@Julian ended up being a failed pump. Filled the bilge and the pump just clicks. Pulled the pump out and held it in my hand, still just clicks.

Local dealership is put of stock, so I picked up one of these from the local Bass Pro Store. Old one was a Rule 500gph, this a "Bass Pro Brand" 800gph. Figure if it gets me on the water for the weekend it'll be fine until I can research another one with an internal float switch instead of the "automatic" style. Was only $25. Feels cheap, but we'll see how it goes.


This has a different base. Anything I need to do to the threads when I screw the new base down with the existing screws? Silicone or Marine Adhesive? Just let it rip?
Just dont use really long deck screws to mount it!
 

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2kwik4u

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And according to that pumps write up it is a float switch bilge.
I bought the 57420 pump. Site calls it an automatic.

I'm going to test in the driveway either way. I'll report back what I find.
 

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(that pic still makes me cringe)
 

2kwik4u

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@Julian just got the pump installed.

Can confirm #57420 from Bass Pro is NOT automatic. Give it 12V and the impeller spins. So switch on means pump is running.

It'll get me through the weekend to troubleshoot my high RPM coolant leak, and spend some time on the water. Gonna have to replace it with something else though, as I prefer the automatic style (or float switch).

Interesting fact. The Bass Pro pump clips into the same base as the factory Rule pump. Here's the dead factory equipment Rule in the new Bass Pro base on the bench.

IMG_20200613_084113.jpg
 

Julian

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@Julian just got the pump installed.

Can confirm #57420 from Bass Pro is NOT automatic. Give it 12V and the impeller spins. So switch on means pump is running.

It'll get me through the weekend to troubleshoot my high RPM coolant leak, and spend some time on the water. Gonna have to replace it with something else though, as I prefer the automatic style (or float switch).

Interesting fact. The Bass Pro pump clips into the same base as the factory Rule pump. Here's the dead factory equipment Rule in the new Bass Pro base on the bench.

View attachment 122447
I was just going from the text in the pumps link you posted above.

"Submersible with float switch"

Guess you can't reply on their description data!
 

2kwik4u

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Well, the bilge pump saga continues.

Didn't like that the Bass Pro model wasn't an Automatic style, so I had the local dealer order one. Took a week to get in. Last weekend wife went and picked up parts, but the parts counter guy didn't hand her the pump (got an oil change kit and some spark plugs while I was at it). So I went back on Tuesday to get the pump. Opened the pump last night.

It's different :( ....Sort of. It's still a Rule 500gph, automatic style. Fitting are different, but I don't think that is a big deal. Basket is different, but that's just a couple of screws. What has me concerned is that the new one says "requires 4.0A Fuse", and the old one says "requires 2.5A Fuse"......Great. Now I need to figure out what the breaker/fuse is rated for in the dash. This is a serious "give a mouse a cookie" ordeal going on here on a small detail level.

This is Yamaha PN: F1C-U8360-10-00 as found here

Here's some pics.

Old on the left, New on the right.
IMG_20200625_172808.jpg

IMG_20200625_172757.jpg

SOooooooo.....I'm assuming the little black button under the bilge switch is the fuse or circuit breaker. How can I determine it's rating and move forward from here?
 

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The rating is stamped to the side of the breaker, it's a "big" box behind that little reset button. Some breakers also have the rating stamped on the face of the button,
(Like this https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/w57-xb7a4a10-5/70198567/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp70198567&sc_intid=70198567
)

but I think the factory ones do not. You may have to peek behind the dash with a flash light to read the numbers. On my older boat the switch panel can be unscrewed from the front to work on it from outside the cramped area.

Best of Luck!
 

2kwik4u

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@Beachbummer Thank you sir.

I'll be working on killing a few bud lights and my "boat list" this evening. I'll report back what I find.
 

the MfM

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You started out wanting an OEM replacement...I’d have the dealer get you the right one.

Or add a float switch to the bass pro one you already installed.
 

2kwik4u

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You started out wanting an OEM replacement...I’d have the dealer get you the right one.

Or add a float switch to the bass pro one you already installed.
Just got off the phone with the dealer asking about this. He's going to check into it, but so far all he can see if that there was a previous number, and it was superseded with this number. Said he'll call me back when he knows more.

My gut is telling me that Rule changed the design between '17 and now, and this is the new equivalent. We'll see.

As long as I don't have a circuit breaker capacity issue, then this one will be just fine, just more work than I anticipated.
 

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I humbly suggest this is a commodity part. No benefit whatsoever to going OEM. The fact the pump fits on the base is awesome, but if the auto switch is electronic, you are better of with a float switch. That auto water sensing is 100% a cost savings measure, it is inferior in all measurements. It draws power when in use, and it has a set interval in checking. a mechanical float draws no power and immediately acts on being triggered by water level.

You could argue this system could be more reliable since it relies on no new moving parts, but I would argue the additional cycling and electronics on the pump make it more likely to fail anyway.

Pump on hand for the weekend, that fits = awesome pump for now. Maybe mechanical auto switch and extra pump in the winter.
 

the MfM

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I humbly suggest this is a commodity part. No benefit whatsoever to going OEM. The fact the pump fits on the base is awesome, but if the auto switch is electronic, you are better of with a float switch. That auto water sensing is 100% a cost savings measure, it is inferior in all measurements. It draws power when in use, and it has a set interval in checking. a mechanical float draws no power and immediately acts on being triggered by water level.

You could argue this system could be more reliable since it relies on no new moving parts, but I would argue the additional cycling and electronics on the pump make it more likely to fail anyway.

Pump on hand for the weekend, that fits = awesome pump for now. Maybe mechanical auto switch and extra pump in the winter.
I agree, but the advantage of a dealer OEM part is that it should be a five minute job to drop in the new. Not having to worry about wiring, fuses and different size outlets.
 
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