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Bilge Pump - Is this the right one......is there a better one that fits in the stock location?

2kwik4u

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I agree, but the advantage of a dealer OEM part is that it should be a five minute job to drop in the new. Not having to worry about wiring, fuses and different size outlets.
That was the plan. Just clip it in and go.

I agree @Beachbummer a float switched large capacity pump would be ideal. When this one dies, if I don't have a bigger boat by then, I'll probably change it. Maybe.
 

Beachbummer

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I agree, but the advantage of a dealer OEM part is that it should be a five minute job to drop in the new. Not having to worry about wiring, fuses and different size outlets.
I see your point. Very valid.
 

2kwik4u

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Well.....circuit breaker is a 3 amp.

IMG_20200626_201238.jpg

Anyone know where to find a 4 amp in this style??
 

Beachbummer

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2 for $7?


I would think it might not trip so quickly if you hook it up to the 3 amp breaker while you wait for it. (Can you tell I'm rooting for you to have a working bilge pump before you go out again?) Worst case it trips and needs to be reset?
 

tdonoughue

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The new one they gave you looks like a higher capacity--so it should take a higher amp circuit (including wiring and fuse) as well as a bigger hose to the output. Now, there are all sorts of reasons why a bigger pump is better. But, it is only better if it actually works in the system. If you leave the hose the same lower-capacity diameter and upgrade everything else, it still will only pump the lower capacity.

That said, I agree this is a complete commodity item. No magic in the stock pump (it is probably the same maker). If you match the existing pump capacity, the whole thing should work (it will have the same size hose, about the same electrical requirements, etc.).
 

2kwik4u

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The new one they gave you looks like a higher capacity--so it should take a higher amp circuit (including wiring and fuse) as well as a bigger hose to the output. Now, there are all sorts of reasons why a bigger pump is better. But, it is only better if it actually works in the system. If you leave the hose the same lower-capacity diameter and upgrade everything else, it still will only pump the lower capacity.

That said, I agree this is a complete commodity item. No magic in the stock pump (it is probably the same maker). If you match the existing pump capacity, the whole thing should work (it will have the same size hose, about the same electrical requirements, etc.).
New one is the "same" 255A from Rule. Has the correct plug on the harness, everything works like it's supposed to. Cycles every 2min. Doesn't pop the breaker currently.

I think I'm going to put the new one in and chance it. Keep an eye on it and see where that leads me. I'll take the Bass Pro unit with me and the tools to do the swap on the water........... assuming weather holds for tomorrow. Currently calling for 80% chance of rain all weekend.

I'll go ahead order the new circuit breakers and have them on the way.
 

2kwik4u

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New pump is in. Super easy installation. Worst part was removing the airbox to get access to the screws that hold the base in.

Disregard the filthy bilge. Not going to clean it completely until I get this leak figured out.
IMG_20200627_111438.jpg

Went ahead and did some other work to the boat while I had the tools out. Noticed that the circuit breaker for the 12V outlet in the glove box is a 10A. If I pop a breaker repeatedly on the water I can swap that over to get me back to the dock. Gonna toss the Bass Pro pump in the tool bag as well as a spare.

Didn't get on the water today to test the leak that spurred all this nonsense. Was misting rain so we called of the trip. Of course it hasn't rained yet, and it's looking sunny now. Stupid weather.
 

2kwik4u

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Took it out for a few hours today. Pump worked great. Just like stock, didn't blow the fuse even during long pumps.

The down side is that it still needed to work. No luck troubleshooting the leak. More on that in the other thread......blech, stupid boat.
 

2kwik4u

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Took it out for a few hours today. Pump worked great. Just like stock, didn't blow the fuse even during long pumps.

The down side is that it still needed to work. No luck troubleshooting the leak. More on that in the other thread......blech, stupid boat.
Still haven't swapped out to the 4amp circuit breaker(despite them sitting on the workbench and taking little to no effort to make happen).

Pump continues to work as intended on the 3A circuit breaker. Hot water leak continues to be a problem. Spent too much time floating and drinking this weekend instead of driving and troubleshooting :(
 

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Spent too much time floating and drinking this weekend instead of driving and troubleshooting :(
Sometimes you just have to deal with the problem another day.🍻
 

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Boats are rarely totally perfect. With great power and heat and impact from waves, something works loose, or rusts or creaks or leaks, etc, etc. You want to balance your enjoyment with the work required and the consequence of postponing the required maintenance/repair.

Wait for a rainy weekend to handle it, and keep an eye on it. No shame in delaying to enjoy the boat. That's the whole point of having it.
 

2kwik4u

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Sometimes you just have to deal with the problem another day.🍻
Been ding a lot of that lately. Fix/repair/deal with what I can, the rest will wait.

The difficulty lately has been ensuring I remember to circle back, and choosing the right ones to wait.
 

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@buckbuck ......geez - after seeing this I won't sleep tonight. Years ago I picked-up a new vehicle that had been in a car dealership to trouble-shoot an erratic window motor. As I walked past the door my pants ripped and my leg was cut. Some moron had put a 3" screw into my side panel to re-install it instead of a 1/4" length one. Right THROUGH the exterior side panel of my driver's side door. 😢
 

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Hoping folks on this thread can help me out even though it’s 2 years old! I have a 2016 242 LS and my original bilge pump has fully crapped out. It’s the F1C-U8360-10-00 - which only has a brown and black wire coming out. The new Rule replacement is F1C-U8360-11-00 which now has a third wire. That wire is terminated and the brown/black come with the correct fitting to just snap it to the existing wiring connection. The problem is when I connect it, my Connext system gives me a ‘Open Circuit’ warning and the pump will not turn on. Any thoughts on why that would happen or what to do to fix that?
 

Julian

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Hoping folks on this thread can help me out even though it’s 2 years old! I have a 2016 242 LS and my original bilge pump has fully crapped out. It’s the F1C-U8360-10-00 - which only has a brown and black wire coming out. The new Rule replacement is F1C-U8360-11-00 which now has a third wire. That wire is terminated and the brown/black come with the correct fitting to just snap it to the existing wiring connection. The problem is when I connect it, my Connext system gives me a ‘Open Circuit’ warning and the pump will not turn on. Any thoughts on why that would happen or what to do to fix that?
Can't you just buy the correct part?

 

HawaiiBreeze

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Hope its 'ok' to snag that pic of the screws through the bottom of the boat... Never seen anything like that before. Beyond Cringe.
 
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