Can't find bilge F3F-U8360-00-00 pump in the shop

[Bogus]

I have 2017 242X E and I cant find
F3F-U8360-00-00
bilge pupm its anavailable in every store.
May be there is some superseded number?

 

[marcham]

On the ar195, the bilge pump is a generic item. Have you pulled it to find the oem model? The one thing you might have to do is transfer the yamaha connector.

 

[2kwik4u]

On the ar195, the bilge pump is a generic item. Have you pulled it to find the oem model? The one thing you might have to do is transfer the yamaha connector.

This is what I did last year. I just moved the connector from the stock Rule unit to a cheap Bass Pro Unit. Worked just fine. The Bass Pro unit even clipped into the same basket as the Rule unit. Just cut the wires off of the old broken one, and soldered them onto the leads from the new pump. Plugged into the factory harness, and actuated with the dash switch.

The switch on my '17 AR190 just supplied 12V+ and Ground to the pump. Any pump/switch assembly you wanted to be back there is fine, just have to wire it in appropriately.

Bass Pro Unit was a simple "on/off" style not an auto pump. So I only ran it for a few weeks while I was waiting on the replacement from the dealership to come in. Here's the new one next to the old one. Maybe you can pull a PN from this and it will help source from someone other than the dealership.



I have the receipt from the dealership at home. The new pump DID have a new number. Remind me tonight and I'll try to dig out the receipt and scan it in for you.

 

[Bogus]

Do you guys think that pupms are the same on 19ft and on 24ft.? I see that oem pump number also chanched before 2018 year models and after.

 

[marcham]

My guess is they are probably the same for a given model year. Pull the pump from the base and take it to your local chandlery, they should be able to match the base for an easy replacement. Crimp and heat shrink the old wires to the new and you are done. 20 min job.

 

[212s]

They definitely change suppliers from year to year and maybe model to model. The pump in my 212s is oval shaped like this one, but not sure of the brand without checking:

Pump

 

[Julian]

The bilge pump in your boat will most likely be a Rule pump. Just stick your phone down there and take a photo and order one online.

Also, what is wrong with the pump? Have you considered it might just be jambed? Everyone should have cleaning their bilge pump base as a winterization or spring cleaning check box item. Undo the two clips on each side, lift the pump off the base and clean the screen as needed. If its not working, trying moving the impeller on the pump by hand, sometimes a little bit of crap jambs it. Might save you replacing it!

 

[Ronnie]

If you are going to replace the oem bilge pump I recommend getting one that gives you the option to switch It on manually in addition to it cycling on automatically every few minutes to check for resistance against the impeller. This is what I did on my waverunners and previous boat and what I may do this off season to my current boat with replacing the simple on/off switch on the dash with dual action version.

 

[Julian]

If you are going to replace the oem bilge pump I recommend getting one that gives you the option to switch It on manually in addition to it cycling on automatically every few minutes to check for resistance against the impeller. This is what I did on my waverunners and previous boat and what I may do this off season to my current boat with replacing the simple on/off switch on the dash with dual action version.

The OP has a 242X so its run through the Connext screen and has the option for OFF/AUTO/ON already.

 

[ZGhost]

If you are going to replace the oem bilge pump I recommend getting one that gives you the option to switch It on manually in addition to it cycling on automatically every few minutes to check for resistance against the impeller. This is what I did on my waverunners and previous boat and what I may do this off season to my current boat with replacing the simple on/off switch on the dash with dual action version.

Didn’t know waverunners came with a bilge? I guess I need to look closer at mine but I am pretty sure I have no dash switch unless it’s the fully automatic one and does not need a manual switch. Am I missing something?

 

[Ronnie]

Didn’t know waverunners came with a bilge? I guess I need to look closer at mine but I am pretty sure I have no dash switch unless it’s the fully automatic one and does not need a manual switch. Am I missing something?

The boat has a rocker switch to turn the bilge pump on and off. The waverunners have oem pumps but no manual on off switch. I’ve added new pumps and manual switches to each.

 

[mrcleanr6]

Ron, the ones in our waverunners are actually different. They dont cycle to check like the ones in our boat. They actually run non stop and are made to run dry without burning up. If the ski is running then the pump is spinning. Odd but just the way it is.

 

[Five Faces]

I'm having the same issue. I have one on order but was told it is backordered. Ultimately I suspect that my order will eventually be cancelled.

Does anybody know what type of connector is used? Or even better yet have a source for the connectors? I looked at all my pics, my boat isn't currently accessible, and therefore can't seem to find the type of connector used. I suspect they are the same ones used for the ballast pumps but not 100% sure?

 

[tdonoughue]

Not sure the connector, but were it me, I would just snip off the connector and get some crimp-on connectors and hook up the new pump. Be sure to not let the connectors sit in the bilge, as they are not waterproof (unless you take the extra step of putting heatshrink tubing over the connector--which is recommended). I even have some butt connectors that are just heat shrink and have solder in the middle of them that make a waterproof seal and then solder the wires together. Lots of options there. I would not let a connector stand in the way of a working bilge pump.

 

[Five Faces]

Not sure the connector, but were it me, I would just snip off the connector and get some crimp-on connectors and hook up the new pump. Be sure to not let the connectors sit in the bilge, as they are not waterproof (unless you take the extra step of putting heatshrink tubing over the connector--which is recommended). I even have some butt connectors that are just heat shrink and have solder in the middle of them that make a waterproof seal and then solder the wires together. Lots of options there. I would not let a connector stand in the way of a working bilge pump.

I'm not looking to install one, but rather to buy one to have on hand as a spare. The connector would make an easy job to quickly swap one out while on the water (which is undoubtedly when I would notice the failure).

 

[tdonoughue]

I understand. For emergency purposes, I would carry a wire cutters and a couple of wire nuts... And a manual bilge pump (your connector and pump will be underwater when you discover it is not working). But that is just me and my cheapness.

 

[Five Faces]

I understand. For emergency purposes, I would carry a wire cutters and a couple of wire nuts... And a manual bilge pump (your connector and pump will be underwater when you discover it is not working). But that is just me and my cheapness.

Agree, for emergency purposes I already have all those tools and several spare parts onboard. I also have a Tsunami pump for filling the custom swim platform ballast that can be used in a pinch if necessary (including portable power pack should the boat lose power). I guess I'm a contingency planner and a bit obsessive when it comes to have redundant spare parts ready, perhaps an old habit from my motor yacht days.

 

[Bogus]

Update. The 2017 year was the Last year for the Rule 500 GPH bilge pump model 25s to be installed on Yamaha boats. Now this pump is not produced by rule factory anymore. Thats Why I wasnt able to find it in regular parts store. But I bought the one on ebay and there are still some on Amazon. The sad story about it is that after 3 years of boat manufacture yamaha is not supplying some of the parts for the boat. I was trying to ask for the item change number but yamaha departments send me one to another department and I had no info from them. More and more im about to say that the the waverunners is the only thing yamaha can do. Boats are too complecated for them to manage.

 

[zrcrazy]

This is what I did last year. I just moved the connector from the stock Rule unit to a cheap Bass Pro Unit. Worked just fine. The Bass Pro unit even clipped into the same basket as the Rule unit. Just cut the wires off of the old broken one, and soldered them onto the leads from the new pump. Plugged into the factory harness, and actuated with the dash switch.

The switch on my '17 AR190 just supplied 12V+ and Ground to the pump. Any pump/switch assembly you wanted to be back there is fine, just have to wire it in appropriately.

Bass Pro Unit was a simple "on/off" style not an auto pump. So I only ran it for a few weeks while I was waiting on the replacement from the dealership to come in. Here's the new one next to the old one. Maybe you can pull a PN from this and it will help source from someone other than the dealership.

View attachment 141558

I have the receipt from the dealership at home. The new pump DID have a new number. Remind me tonight and I'll try to dig out the receipt and scan it in for you.

Can I get the new number please

 

[2kwik4u]

Can I get the new number please

I'll try to remember to dig that reciept out of the box tonight. No promises. I've slept and drank since I made that post, and I'm not 100% certain that receipt got filed. I might still be in our "to be filed" stack (which is currently about a foot deep).