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Easiest way to add/amplify music at the helm

Lion

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I spent the afternoon making some changes to the boat, including beginning the process of installing mid cabin speakers. Since I was hoping to install them in the mid cabin inserts I spent a long time measuring and checking depths before I drilled a 5" hole. My first step was to remove the cup holder near where I wanted to install the speaker and measured the depth to the outer wall. This measurement scared the crap out of me as it was about 3" to the edge of the cupholder to the out hull wall and there was about 1" between the cupholder and the insert wall (so only 2" of speaker clearance).
View attachment 51591
Not convinced yet, I removed part of the wall in the changing room and took some measurements there. These measurements showed there was 3.5" of clearance (the cupholder is much lower...so the clearance is less)
View attachment 51590

Since I could see behind the coving from this vantage point, I could see that there was likely enough room, so I took the advice someone earlier in this thread suggested and I drilled a tiny hole and stuck a wire in there. This measurement also read at 3.5".
View attachment 51592

I could also see where the wire came through from the storage closet view, and my only concern was one of the longer screws through the rub rail, so I attempted to mount the speaker as high as I could to avoid the rub rail more. At this point I decided to take the plunge as the JLs I was planning on installing needed 2 7/8 depth. So out came the hole saw and drilling began! Once I was through, of course one of the screws was very close to the back of the speaker....so I cut it off.

Here you can see the distance to the screw:
View attachment 51593

After this, I test fit the speaker again, and all looked good!
View attachment 51594

So I finished installing the speaker and here is the end result:
View attachment 51595

View attachment 51596

I'm very happy with the results, and now just need to go through the same process for the other side. Of course I will likely double and triple check the clearances on the other side as well! And the dealer said it wouldn't fit!

I'm waiting for wire to arrive to connect the Wetsounds amp then I'll know how they sound!

Julian,

I'm curious. I see that you installed Jo's.
I am looking to install the Wetsounds d's 650.
Im looking at the instructions diagram and it says I need 3.08" but when I measured it, it is actually less. Am I missing something? Here are pictures...15192665024521496886934.jpg
 

Lion

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Location
Via Verde, California
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Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
242 Limited S E-Series
Boat Length
24
I spent the afternoon making some changes to the boat, including beginning the process of installing mid cabin speakers. Since I was hoping to install them in the mid cabin inserts I spent a long time measuring and checking depths before I drilled a 5" hole. My first step was to remove the cup holder near where I wanted to install the speaker and measured the depth to the outer wall. This measurement scared the crap out of me as it was about 3" to the edge of the cupholder to the out hull wall and there was about 1" between the cupholder and the insert wall (so only 2" of speaker clearance).
View attachment 51591
Not convinced yet, I removed part of the wall in the changing room and took some measurements there. These measurements showed there was 3.5" of clearance (the cupholder is much lower...so the clearance is less)
View attachment 51590

Since I could see behind the coving from this vantage point, I could see that there was likely enough room, so I took the advice someone earlier in this thread suggested and I drilled a tiny hole and stuck a wire in there. This measurement also read at 3.5".
View attachment 51592

I could also see where the wire came through from the storage closet view, and my only concern was one of the longer screws through the rub rail, so I attempted to mount the speaker as high as I could to avoid the rub rail more. At this point I decided to take the plunge as the JLs I was planning on installing needed 2 7/8 depth. So out came the hole saw and drilling began! Once I was through, of course one of the screws was very close to the back of the speaker....so I cut it off.

Here you can see the distance to the screw:
View attachment 51593

After this, I test fit the speaker again, and all looked good!
View attachment 51594

So I finished installing the speaker and here is the end result:
View attachment 51595

View attachment 51596

I'm very happy with the results, and now just need to go through the same process for the other side. Of course I will likely double and triple check the clearances on the other side as well! And the dealer said it wouldn't fit!

I'm waiting for wire to arrive to connect the Wetsounds amp then I'll know how they sound!
Stupid autocorrect, I see you installed JL's that is.
By the looks of it, I'm thinking the ws should fit unless I'm measuring something incorrectly....
 

Julian

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Stupid autocorrect, I see you installed JL's that is.
By the looks of it, I'm thinking the ws should fit unless I'm measuring something incorrectly....
It does look like you should have plenty of clearance. The worst case is you would have to add a spacer....which are cheap on ebay (or LED rings).

My guess is they want some clearance behind the speaker in case the mounting point flexs with the speaker movement.
 

Lion

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It does look like you should have plenty of clearance. The worst case is you would have to add a spacer....which are cheap on ebay (or LED rings).

My guess is they want some clearance behind the speaker in case the mounting point flexs with the speaker movement.
Thanks,
I was hoping you would say that. I really like that mid cab location you put yours in.
Just wanted to confirm from someone who already did the install before I take the plunge.... I feel more confident now...lol
I will still be drilling a tiny hole though...lol
Thanks for getting back to me
 

Julian

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Thanks,
I was hoping you would say that. I really like that mid cab location you put yours in.
Just wanted to confirm from someone who already did the install before I take the plunge.... I feel more confident now...lol
I will still be drilling a tiny hole though...lol
Thanks for getting back to me
I drilled a small hole first too!

Do be sure not to go too far forward or you start to get close to the backing plate of the cleat!
 

Lion

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@fraserjr - Sorry for the long post but I think you and perhaps others will find it useful. Unfortunately overcoming wind and motor noise in an open environment like a boat takes considerably more decibels than in a closed environment like a car. Speakers are better able to to produce clean and louder sound with the appropriate amount of clean power and the stock head unit does not even have enough power for the speakers that are already there. If your goal is being able to hear the music at cruise I recommend going with a 4 or 6 channel class D marine amp and hooking up the existing cockpit and/or bow speakers to the remaining channels after adding the the new pair. everything will be louder and cleaner that way. If you are trying to do this on a budget there are mid-grade marine amps out there like Kicker, JBL, and MB Quart that will do a good job for the small load you are looking at running. I recommend staying away from the true budget amps out there like Boss audio or Pyle and the like. In fact this one may be a good mid grade choice https://www.amazon.com/NA540-6-Nautic-Amplifier-6-Channel-540-Watt/dp/B00DJ677Y4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482419254&sr=8-3&keywords=6+channel+marine+amp . My reasoning on the 4 or 6 channel is that the install gear is going to cost you quite a bit of money and then there is your time since you are already at it so why not spend a small percentage extra and get a large percentage more bang for your buck. All of that said I personally will only use JL audio amps but they are expensive.

In case you have not read it on other threads already wire is very important. Don't use a kit from Walmart or Amazon. Only use good pure copper or tinned copper wire (don't believe everything you read on the package or marketing either). I found what is the very best marine power wire out there at the best price at http://www.knukonceptz.com/marine-audio/marine-power-wire/ . Their Kolossus Flexs wire is the best stuff you can get and half the price of the Jl Audio stuff which is exactly the same. Also make sure you get the right gauge of power wire for your load and length of run. 8 AWG may power a single amp at the helm but it would be cutting it close so 4 AWG would be the better and much safer way to go. Also make sure to fuse the positive power lead in line as close to the battery as possible (knukoncepts sells these too). You will also need an rca cable which is also available at you guessed it; knuknoceptz. I also recently discovered that In wall CL-3 speaker wire is great for a boat and certainly better than most other speaker wire while being very cost effective. Knukonceptz speaker wire is a better choice as their speaker wire in tinned but perhaps a bit more expensive. I like 14 AWG wire for most speaker runs with the exception being 12 AWG for subwoofers.

Yes the price all adds up but the old acronym concerning BOAT ownership is very true (Break Out Another Thousand). My recommendation above won't come close to winning any competitions or even bragging rights at the local ramp but it will get you a decently good sounding system that is also safe and won't fail down road if installed properly.

One install tip for the the speakers you are adding is that this hole saw kit from harbor freight makes a perfect 5 inch hole (exact mounting hole needed) in the fiberglass for cheap http://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html . Tape off the area with painters tape, drill the pilot hole in forwards then switch to reverse to get the saw through the thin gel coat layer then back over to forward to get through the fiberglass. Put the speakers in the 5 inch holes to mark the 4 screw holes of the speakers and pilot drill those out. Pilot holes in fiberglass need to be close to the final screw size you are using like cabinet grade hardwood. If you get the speakers from @2nazt you may ask him to make sure to include the gold plated female wiring spades that I included in the box as the db651 are an odd size and I ordered those separately (that is unless you prefer to solder). Lastly or rather firstly don't forget a good dust mask, googles, gloves and work clothes as cutting fiberglass is nasty.

Good luck.
I went to the link knukonceptz and was looking at their amp kits they sell.
From your experience, do those kits come with enough wire ...Or is it best to buy separate rolls? I know that I will be buying individual rolls for the speaker wires.
 

Mainah

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Never considered the kit. I knew how much wire I needed so I just bought by the foot and ended up with enough.

Here was my order.


Product Options Price Qty Total
FD110-1416 Female Disconnect .110 14/16 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 2 $9.98
FD250-1012 Female Disconnect .250 10/12 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
FD187-1012 Female Disconnect .187 10/12 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
FD187-1416 Female Disconnect .187 14/16 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
KAR14SS Karma SS 14 Gauge Speaker Wire $0.57 110 $62.70
$56.43
KAR12SS Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire $0.75 10 $7.50
KFX0R Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Red Power /Ground Wire $3.50 20 $70.00
KFX0BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black Power/Ground Wire $3.50 20 $70.00
FH-20 In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse $17.99 1 $17.99
KFX4BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire $1.49 5 $7.45
KFX4R Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Red Power/Ground Wire $1.49 5 $7.45
KARSS2.05M Karma SS 2 Channel 1/2 Meter RCA Cable $5.99 2 $11.98
KARSS2.2M Karma SS 2 Channel 2 Meter RCA Cable $9.49 1 $9.49
TCRT-0-BK KnuKonceptz Tinned Copper 1/0 Gauge Crimp Ring Terminal - Black $1.75 1 $1.75
TCRT-0-R KnuKonceptz Tinned Copper 1/0 Gauge Crimp Ring Terminal - Red
 

Mainah

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Never considered the kit. I knew how much wire I needed so I just bought by the foot and ended up with enough.

Here was my order.


Product Options Price Qty Total
FD110-1416 Female Disconnect .110 14/16 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 2 $9.98
FD250-1012 Female Disconnect .250 10/12 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
FD187-1012 Female Disconnect .187 10/12 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
FD187-1416 Female Disconnect .187 14/16 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
KAR14SS Karma SS 14 Gauge Speaker Wire $0.57 110 $62.70
$56.43
KAR12SS Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire $0.75 10 $7.50
KFX0R Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Red Power /Ground Wire $3.50 20 $70.00
KFX0BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black Power/Ground Wire $3.50 20 $70.00
FH-20 In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse $17.99 1 $17.99
KFX4BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire $1.49 5 $7.45
KFX4R Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Red Power/Ground Wire $1.49 5 $7.45
KARSS2.05M Karma SS 2 Channel 1/2 Meter RCA Cable $5.99 2 $11.98
KARSS2.2M Karma SS 2 Channel 2 Meter RCA Cable $9.49 1 $9.49
TCRT-0-BK KnuKonceptz Tinned Copper 1/0 Gauge Crimp Ring Terminal - Black $1.75 1 $1.75
TCRT-0-R KnuKonceptz Tinned Copper 1/0 Gauge Crimp Ring Terminal - Red

Note I took the shortest route to the helm by going through the fuel compartment and using sump pump hose as an abrasion sheath. Going around the engine compartment will take more wire. I did have a foot or two left over.
 

Lion

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Note I took the shortest route to the helm by going through the fuel compartment and using sump pump hose as an abrasion sheath. Going around the engine compartment will take more wire. I did have a foot or two left over.
Never considered the kit. I knew how much wire I needed so I just bought by the foot and ended up with enough.

Here was my order.


Product Options Price Qty Total
FD110-1416 Female Disconnect .110 14/16 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 2 $9.98
FD250-1012 Female Disconnect .250 10/12 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
FD187-1012 Female Disconnect .187 10/12 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
FD187-1416 Female Disconnect .187 14/16 Gauge Pack of 20 $4.99 1 $4.99
KAR14SS Karma SS 14 Gauge Speaker Wire $0.57 110 $62.70
$56.43
KAR12SS Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire $0.75 10 $7.50
KFX0R Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Red Power /Ground Wire $3.50 20 $70.00
KFX0BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black Power/Ground Wire $3.50 20 $70.00
FH-20 In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse $17.99 1 $17.99
KFX4BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire $1.49 5 $7.45
KFX4R Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Red Power/Ground Wire $1.49 5 $7.45
KARSS2.05M Karma SS 2 Channel 1/2 Meter RCA Cable $5.99 2 $11.98
KARSS2.2M Karma SS 2 Channel 2 Meter RCA Cable $9.49 1 $9.49
TCRT-0-BK KnuKonceptz Tinned Copper 1/0 Gauge Crimp Ring Terminal - Black $1.75 1 $1.75
TCRT-0-R KnuKonceptz Tinned Copper 1/0 Gauge Crimp Ring Terminal - Red

You are the man! That’s what I’m talking about.... exactly what I was asking for in a round about way....lol
 

Marvin willis

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firecap797

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Are those speaker wires in the photo?
I believe that was the power wire to the light in the head compartment. In those locations, I pulled new wiring for the speakers that I installed. Come to think of it, I pulled new wiring for all of the speakers.
 

LukePrinsloo

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Just going to bump this thread as it took forever to find for me. (weak google fu I guess).

in the next few weeks i'll be doing the mid cabin and rear swim deck speakers w/o cutting cushions as per this and other threads.
 

Shookie

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I'm doing the same... adding an amp and 2 speakers to the cockpit
 

Julian

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