Helm Console Mods

[mntnresq58]

So I'm pretty stoked with about 80% of my SX230 that I've had for about a year.

But, after spending a couple months trying to figure out the best storage arrangement, I had come to the conclusion that the stock under helm console access is garbage. I don't know what 11yo kid they got to crawl in there to wire this boat. The stock door opening is roughly 8w x 17h.

I'm not a big dude, but the first time I tried to wedge my 5'9", 185 in through the access hatch, I thought I was dead. I had my head and one shoulder stuck in there for about an hour. Images of firefighters attacking my boat with Sawzalls to rescue me were going through my head. Took some not insignificant amount of skin off trying to escape.

I eventually got out, and started to devise my own plan to attack the helm console myself with a Sawzall or something. I spent a while eyeballing what/where I might want to cut and settled on what I thought would work.

I then removed the stock door, so I could see the structure behind and figure out if I was going to need to change my plan. I drew a few possibile cut lines with a sharpie, and then honed in on my final planned cut.

Having decided on where to cut, I ....decided to wait about a week to get up the nerve to cut a big hole in the boat. In the meantime, I did some reading on the best way to cut the fiberglass without splintering/cracking. Between what I read, and looking at how it appeared to have been cut from the factory, I decided to do most of it with a diamond cut off wheel in my angle grinder.

On the day, I broke out the grinder, drill, files, sandpaper, shop vac, respirator, etc and set to work. I spun up the grinder, braced my support hand, and.... the diamond wheel plowed into the 'glass like butter. It was a bit of a juggling act to hold the end of the vac hose close to the cut with my foot while cutting, but I go it done. I radiused all the corners to prevent cracking, so for those I just did a bunch of perpendicular cuts, staying about .25" off the line. Then I broke out the tabs with pliers, and ground the corners to the line with a drum sander in the dremel.

After getting the hole cut, and all cleaned up, I took several measurements of the new opening, which was roughly 14w X 28H. I took those to Mastercam, and drew up a frame and door. The plan was for a frame/jamb of about .75" all the way around, and with an 1/8" gap around the door. That meant I'd need a piece of material about 18 x 30 to make a new door.

I looked up the cost of a similar sized chunk of .5" Starboard, and.... then went and bought a similar sized cutting board( also white HDPE) for $30. That sounded like a good plan until it took 3 weeks to arrive, and when it did, did not match the photos. It was very opaque, kinda like the color of skim milk. That wasn't going to do. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I searched around for other alternatives and eventually found some expanded PVC board for ~$50.

The color and such are good. It is very lightweight which is nice, but it's also pretty soft and dents easily. Will try it for now,and see how it holds up.

I drew up a profile, and cut the door and jamb out on one of our CNC mills at work. I glued and screwed the jamb pieces together, and used the hinge from the old door, which I cut in two pieces to spread out the forces. Since the PVC is so light, it handles it fine, but if I ever need to go back to Starboard, or a similar weight material, a new full length hinge would be needed.

I pre-drilled the mounting holes, and screwed it in to place. So far, it works great. There is a very small curvature to the helm console near the bottom, which you kind of can't see just looking at it, but when the door was mounted, the bottom of the door sticks out just slightly. I could probably try to heat and bend the door a touch to fix it, but i'm not really worried about it.

I actually started writing up this post last fall, but realized I forgot to post it, so I've been using the new door for quite a while, and so far, it works well. The access difference is huge. Since I plan to do a fairly substantial re-wire of the console, that will be a big help.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

D

So I'm pretty stoked with about 80% of my SX230 that I've had for about a year.

But, after spending a couple months trying to figure out the best storage arrangement, I had come to the conclusion that the stock under helm console access is garbage. I don't know what 11yo kid they got to crawl in there to wire this boat. The stock door opening is roughly 8w x 17h.

I'm not a big dude, but the first time I tried to wedge my 5'9", 185 in through the access hatch, I thought I was dead. I had my head and one shoulder stuck in there for about an hour. Images of firefighters attacking my boat with Sawzalls to rescue me were going through my head. Took some not insignificant amount of skin off trying to escape.

I eventually got out, and started to devise my own plan to attack the helm console myself with a Sawzall or something. I spent a while eyeballing what/where I might want to cut and settled on what I thought would work.

I then removed the stock door, so I could see the structure behind and figure out if I was going to need to change my plan. I drew a few possibile cut lines with a sharpie, and then honed in on my final planned cut.

Having decided on where to cut, I ....decided to wait about a week to get up the nerve to cut a big hole in the boat. In the meantime, I did some reading on the best way to cut the fiberglass without splintering/cracking. Between what I read, and looking at how it appeared to have been cut from the factory, I decided to do most of it with a diamond cut off wheel in my angle grinder.

On the day, I broke out the grinder, drill, files, sandpaper, shop vac, respirator, etc and set to work. I spun up the grinder, braced my support hand, and.... the diamond wheel plowed into the 'glass like butter. It was a bit of a juggling act to hold the end of the vac hose close to the cut with my foot while cutting, but I go it done. I radiused all the corners to prevent cracking, so for those I just did a bunch of perpendicular cuts, staying about .25" off the line. Then I broke out the tabs with pliers, and ground the corners to the line with a drum sander in the dremel.

After getting the hole cut, and all cleaned up, I took several measurements of the new opening, which was roughly 14w X 28H. I took those to Mastercam, and drew up a frame and door. The plan was for a frame/jamb of about .75" all the way around, and with an 1/8" gap around the door. That meant I'd need a piece of material about 18 x 30 to make a new door.

I looked up the cost of a similar sized chunk of .5" Starboard, and.... then went and bought a similar sized cutting board( also white HDPE) for $30. That sounded like a good plan until it took 3 weeks to arrive, and when it did, did not match the photos. It was very opaque, kinda like the color of skim milk. That wasn't going to do. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I searched around for other alternatives and eventually found some expanded PVC board for ~$50.

The color and such are good. It is very lightweight which is nice, but it's also pretty soft and dents easily. Will try it for now,and see how it holds up.

I drew up a profile, and cut the door and jamb out on one of our CNC mills at work. I glued and screwed the jamb pieces together, and used the hinge from the old door, which I cut in two pieces to spread out the forces. Since the PVC is so light, it handles it fine, but if I ever need to go back to Starboard, or a similar weight material, a new full length hinge would be needed.

I pre-drilled the mounting holes, and screwed it in to place. So far, it works great. There is a very small curvature to the helm console near the bottom, which you kind of can't see just looking at it, but when the door was mounted, the bottom of the door sticks out just slightly. I could probably try to heat and bend the door a touch to fix it, but i'm not really worried about it.

I actually started writing up this post last fall, but realized I forgot to post it, so I've been using the new door for quite a while, and so far, it works well. The access difference is huge. Since I plan to do a fairly substantial re-wire of the console, that will be a big help.

Well done!

Do you have a pic of the completed project?

 

[mntnresq58]

D


Well done!

Do you have a pic of the completed project?

I thought I did, but can't find it. I will go take some today and post up.

 

[drewkaree]

This is an awsome project! If I'm understanding you correctly, you made the door and the frame/jamb out of one piece, and used the CNC to cut the door free? It really looks like you accomplished your goal, and far less worries of getting stuck, or the contortions and skin loss if you're able to make it out without the Jaws Of Life having to be used. It feels like mine is larger (newer boat, different model), but the contortions on a hot day really can get to you and have you headed down the path of "I'm stuck" in a heartbeat.

I wish they'd have put the folding door on the port side for my boat, but my setup is flipped in relation to yours. I don't know if it'd be possible to swap them, and do something similar, but I don't have access to a CNC, so I'd have to rig up something, or have a few cocktails to steady my nerves with the door fabrication part.

When you say you found some PVC board, did you glue up a few boards, or did you cut the whole thing from a larger "plywood" sheet of the stuff? Menards, in my area, sells 4x8 sheets, but they're 3/4", although they do have 1/2" in 2x4 sheets for special order (or I'd have to drive a fair distance to a store that has it in stock) I've found, in doing some window trim in PVC, that Titebond sells a bottle of "PVC Trim glue" that's nothing more than cyanoacrylate (super glue) in a larger quantity, for a better price, so if you need to do any assembly, that should be quick and easy. Put it on both pieces you're looking to stick together, and you have about 5-10 seconds to move pieces around as well. If you just do one side with the PVC boards, you've got about 0 seconds and a whole lot of swearing if you get it wrong!?

 

[mntnresq58]

D


Well done!

Do you have a pic of the completed project?

I took a couple quick pics today. Lighting isn't great, as the cover was still on.

This is an awsome project! If I'm understanding you correctly, you made the door and the frame/jamb out of one piece, and used the CNC to cut the door free? It really looks like you accomplished your goal, and far less worries of getting stuck, or the contortions and skin loss if you're able to make it out without the Jaws Of Life having to be used. It feels like mine is larger (newer boat, different model), but the contortions on a hot day really can get to you and have you headed down the path of "I'm stuck" in a heartbeat.

I wish they'd have put the folding door on the port side for my boat, but my setup is flipped in relation to yours. I don't know if it'd be possible to swap them, and do something similar, but I don't have access to a CNC, so I'd have to rig up something, or have a few cocktails to steady my nerves with the door fabrication part.

When you say you found some PVC board, did you glue up a few boards, or did you cut the whole thing from a larger "plywood" sheet of the stuff? Menards, in my area, sells 4x8 sheets, but they're 3/4", although they do have 1/2" in 2x4 sheets for special order (or I'd have to drive a fair distance to a store that has it in stock) I've found, in doing some window trim in PVC, that Titebond sells a bottle of "PVC Trim glue" that's nothing more than cyanoacrylate (super glue) in a larger quantity, for a better price, so if you need to do any assembly, that should be quick and easy. Put it on both pieces you're looking to stick together, and you have about 5-10 seconds to move pieces around as well. If you just do one side with the PVC boards, you've got about 0 seconds and a whole lot of swearing if you get it wrong!?

Yeah, basically.

I had gone back and forth a lot on the layout, the size, etc, and just basically roughing in a design that would maximize the available space, and give me the largest opening I could get. There are some limitations with how big you can go due to the structure of the helm. I took the dimensions down of the max opening I could cut, allowing myself about a 5/8" reveal all the way around, for the mounting flange. I then cut the opening, and went back and measured the hole I had cut. I drew up the outer profile, located the mounting holes, and made sure that the inner relief profile would fit the hole. I could have gone a bit wider if I wanted, but would have had to move the channel for the folding door forward a bit, and didn't want to do that, so I ran the new door so it's right up against the channel.

I found a sheet of 1/2" thick expanded PVC board online (might have been Amazon), which I think was something like 18x36. If you look at the mill picture, I first cut the rabbet, or relief for the mounting flange, which is roughly .3" deep, leaving the mounting flange about .2" thick. Then, drilled all the mounting holes, and used some of those to screw the stock down to a scrificial board underneath. Then cut the latch hole, then cut the door free from the inside. Last, I cut out the outer profile for the frame. Because the material is thin, and lightweight, the frame alone was pretty flimsy, so I ripped several strips from the remnants on the table saw, and mounted those to the inside of the frame with clear PVC cement, and screws. This helped reinforce the frame, and acts as a stop for the door on the inside.

As a minor added bonus, I took the old Starboard door, hit all the edges with an 1/8" roundover bit in the router, and turned it into a cutting board to use on the boat. ?

 

[dgfreeze]

I can sympathize with your frustration with the original door. It's really small, and while I'm able to fit through the rough opening, it's a tight squeeze, and a pain in the butt. I've been thinking about doing a major electrical overhaul on the helm someday, so this project is something I'd have to consider if I decide to proceed. Kicker is, I've got a milling machine, but it's not CNC. I could probably make something work, as I do have a large turntable, and could probably rotate the piece for the two angled edges. I think I'd make the frame and the door, then cut the hole to match the frame, so as to make the fitment side of things safer and easier. Anyway, that's a problem for another day, but props to you, I really like it!

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

Looks good. I agree that door is too small to be useful. A simpler solution would be to buy a bigger door like this - https://www.amazon.com/Five-Oceans-...8207&sprefix=boat+access+door,aps,103&sr=8-42. I don't know that that sample is the perfect size because I'm not at the boat but I'm sure something that is bigger but still fits in that space could be found.

 

[mntnresq58]

I can sympathize with your frustration with the original door. It's really small, and while I'm able to fit through the rough opening, it's a tight squeeze, and a pain in the butt. I've been thinking about doing a major electrical overhaul on the helm someday, so this project is something I'd have to consider if I decide to proceed. Kicker is, I've got a milling machine, but it's not CNC. I could probably make something work, as I do have a large turntable, and could probably rotate the piece for the two angled edges. I think I'd make the frame and the door, then cut the hole to match the frame, so as to make the fitment side of things safer and easier. Anyway, that's a problem for another day, but props to you, I really like it!

Yeah, the wiring mods are a big reason I did this. I have added some additional circuits already, and I tend to add several more. To accommodate this, I'm going to replace the switch panel on the Stbd side of the dash, with a 12 circuit remote touch switch panel. So, I will need to gut a lot of the excess wiring under the helm and relocate a lot of stuff.

 

[mntnresq58]

Looks good. I agree that door is too small to be useful. A simpler solution would be to buy a bigger door like this - https://www.amazon.com/Five-Oceans-Marine-Access-FO-2348/dp/B00D282TL0/ref=sr_1_42?crid=17K2IGLQINYYX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aS48rSIQcWsGhmbqaon8asvE37IbxW1w03Y7lLO6sJJ2EyOqw7ojQA-33clLFNGhVi4Dc-b0UnCsqPt3JYnZqhotEP6kBRARhJeJshSJ3MHpkyrsk6NdhLS75j4IOmj1_A3jY-apAil_631wHWOLBZb-Na1zassZqVhzrtHDOMtYnXXbPe95GYZziHMIB0rnxNJ2ywcWvyDcJKFM18FXVPEWzp71z4DckW4-w3QZcrKzsiqQYKlPiIcxZ0zgKOnVott3JiUnQ5vduq3Ps01RhF9GbmzJAI215FWIEWkHvWY.UcIah6d383hPhWC7TQhYFdZ7jFsv1vOkH6t9MOoEIOs&dib_tag=se&keywords=boat+access+door&qid=1720548207&sprefix=boat+access+door,aps,103&sr=8-42. I don't know that that sample is the perfect size because I'm not at the boat but I'm sure something that is bigger but still fits in that space could be found.

Yeah, something like that is an option, but as I mentioned in my OP, I'm cheap, and really I enjoy doing more custom stuff anyway. Yes, it usually takes me 3x as long to get something done, but it's done the way that I want, and by going custom, I can make it such to maximize the space, etc.

A lot of the point of this was to give me room to crawl around in there, for wiring and other projects. I just finished adding interior LED strip lighting to every compartment on the boat, as well as installing a tower. Once I get all the other wiring additions installed, I'll add a new switch center as well.

 

[drewkaree]

Yeah, something like that is an option, but as I mentioned in my OP, I'm cheap, and really I enjoy doing more custom stuff anyway. Yes, it usually takes me 3x as long to get something done, but it's done the way that I want, and by going custom, I can make it such to maximize the space, etc.

Shut up, I'm not crying, YOU'RE crying! ?

You sound like you could be my twin!

 

[mntnresq58]

Lol. Yeah, it's a blessing and a curse. I'm pretty good at a wide array of stuff, and just prefer to do it, or see if I can.

While I know I could save a lot of time, I just prefer to take the long way around. At least if it doesn't come out, I haven't paid a ton for it, and I have no one else to blame.

So far, this one has worked out. So, on to bigger projects.

Next, is probably going to be a full custom bimini that mounts to the tower. Then some jetwash deflectors, ballast, diy thrust vectors, etc. Over the winter, I'll try my hand at a full reupholster.

 

[mntnresq58]

Well, it's springtime, and as such, time for an update. I'm probably just going to plop all of it here, and will maybe do some more detailed write ups of individual projects later.

So, I did a bunch of stuff, but still have a lot to do:

• I gutted the dash, and cut out the 86 feet of unnecessary wiring that was wadded up in there, and spliced or re-terminated the circuits as needed. I still don't understand why they can't seem to better size the harness to the model of boat.
• I re-routed a few circuits, and cleaned up the instrument cluster side of the harness as well.
• I changed out all the backlights to blue LED
• Replaced the dead depth/temp transducer and gauge
• Installed the breakout box for the new 12-circuit control panel, routed the circuits as needed, and designed a new panel to hold it, and the switches for the ballast install.
• Redesigned the Radio and ignition switch panel as well.
• Moved the No Wake Mode switches to the throttle control. Had to design and print a new throttle housing cover. Then, when all the Check Engine lights started going off, had to figure out what I broke (the original switches have a 4.7K resistor in them in the Open postion, which keeps the ECM happy. I didn't check that before I threw them away... )
• Relocated the battery tray to behind the old compartment bulkhead, and added a small secondary battery for tunes while on the hook. Will likley do the same for the Stbd side, and add another full size batt.
• Added a 2-battery switch, a secondary aux fuse panel, and accssory plug port.
• Moved the battery to be able to fit the ballast bag in the Port compartment.
• Started the ballast install- Mounted the pumps, drilled the giant holes in the hull for the two water inlets, and started plumbing everything (still in progress).
• Bought a bunch of vinyl, and a better sewing machine, and got the two main rear seat cushions re upholstered. Obviously still have a lot to redo, but they came out actually ok.

Still have a LOT I want to get done this season, but it's a start.

 

[anmut]

Very cool. Installing my own ballast system is on my list for sure. Curious why you didn't add shutoff valves at the inlets? Seems to be standard practice (or maybe I'm not seeing the system correctly?)

 

[mntnresq58]

Very cool. Installing my own ballast system is on my list for sure. Curious why you didn't add shutoff valves at the inlets? Seems to be standard practice (or maybe I'm not seeing the system correctly?)

The picture attached was just of the initial pumps install. I still have to do the rest of the plumbing. I was not intending to install a close off valve inline before the pumps, but I have room to do so if needed. The impeller in the pump shouldn't allow any water flow past it unless it is running. I do have some "emergency" plugs which I can insert into the inlets in the event of some sort of a leak, but I suspect that won't be necessary in most cases. The only connection out of sight is the hose to the stainless inlet fittings, which are sealed with 4200, and the hoses are sealed, and double clamped. All other connections will be from the engine compartment forward, so any other leaks should be visible.

 

[anmut]

The picture attached was just of the initial pumps install. I still have to do the rest of the plumbing. I was not intending to install a close off valve inline before the pumps, but I have room to do so if needed. The impeller in the pump shouldn't allow any water flow past it unless it is running. I do have some "emergency" plugs which I can insert into the inlets in the event of some sort of a leak, but I suspect that won't be necessary in most cases. The only connection out of sight is the hose to the stainless inlet fittings, which are sealed with 4200, and the hoses are sealed, and double clamped. All other connections will be from the engine compartment forward, so any other leaks should be visible.

Drilling giant holes into the hull - that's where I get nervous!

 

[drewkaree]

Well, it's springtime, and as such, time for an update. I'm probably just going to plop all of it here, and will maybe do some more detailed write ups of individual projects later.

So, I did a bunch of stuff, but still have a lot to do:

• I gutted the dash, and cut out the 86 feet of unnecessary wiring that was wadded up in there, and spliced or re-terminated the circuits as needed. I still don't understand why they can't seem to better size the harness to the model of boat.

Probably pre-wired harnesses, and they buy in bulk, so every boat gets the same harness, with possible different plugs just left in place, is the best idea/reasoning I can come up with. It'd make sense that they're not wiring each boat individually, and if they can farm those things out, then they have to contort things to make it all fit for that particular model.

• Installed the breakout box for the new 12-circuit control panel, routed the circuits as needed, and designed a new panel to hold it, and the switches for the ballast install.
• Redesigned the Radio and ignition switch panel as well.

Are those starboard or some similar material? Those look really nicely done and finished, were those CNC fabbed?

• Moved the No Wake Mode switches to the throttle control. Had to design and print a new throttle housing cover.

I'm wanting to design and print an angled mounting panel for the radio and fill the crappy area they claim can be used for laying a phone down. It doesn't work, as anything laid there falls on the floor in seconds. The radio sits almost vertical, and is less than ideal ergonomically and visually. In looking at materials to print with, UV exposure and heat resistance seem to be the main things I need to be concerned with. I just picked up a new Polymaker PLA-HF that is claimed to be more heat resistant than ABS, but I'm wondering if ASA might be an even better material for this - did you use any of these materials, or if not, what did you go with?

The PLA isn't very UV resistant, but it'd work for initial prototypes, and I think I'd eventually print the final version in ASA, so I was wondering what your thought process and final choice was for your print

 

[mntnresq58]

Yeah, I'm sure they use a one size fits all harness, but it still is a pain. They could at least route or coil it more neatly, instead of trying to cram all the excess into the dash.

The material for the switch panels is grey PETG. Just printed, a bit of sanding, and then smoothed them off a bit with a torch. Then color filled the inlays with some blue nailpolish. The initial test pieces last year were printed with PLA, then once the profile was right, I re-printed them on our SLA at work, with high strength resin. I had to make some tweaks on this redesign, so I just went ahead and printed them at home in PETG. I've definitely had poor performance with PLA deforming in the heat, but pretty good luck with PETG. The temperature resistance is good, and UV isn't a huge issue, as I have the Bimini up about 95% of the time. Plus, these being a lighter color, should not heat up as bad. The Throttle control cover is also PETG. I have a Creality Ender 3S1, and a Prusa Mk3.5 at home, and about 20 other machines at work I can use.

I'm contemplating reworking the throttle cover a bit to make it a touch taller, and add awireless charging pad and friction phone holder into it.

 

[drewkaree]

Yeah, I'm sure they use a one size fits all harness, but it still is a pain. They could at least route or coil it more neatly, instead of trying to cram all the excess into the dash.

The material for the switch panels is grey PETG. Just printed, a bit of sanding, and then smoothed them off a bit with a torch. Then color filled the inlays with some blue nailpolish. The initial test pieces last year were printed with PLA, then once the profile was right, I re-printed them on our SLA at work, with high strength resin. I had to make some tweaks on this redesign, so I just went ahead and printed them at home in PETG. I've definitely had poor performance with PLA deforming in the heat, but pretty good luck with PETG. The temperature resistance is good, and UV isn't a huge issue, as I have the Bimini up about 95% of the time. Plus, these being a lighter color, should not heat up as bad. The Throttle control cover is also PETG. I have a Creality Ender 3S1, and a Prusa Mk3.5 at home, and about 20 other machines at work I can use.

I'm contemplating reworking the throttle cover a bit to make it a touch taller, and add awireless charging pad and friction phone holder into it.

I was completely wrong on the Polymaker PLA I bought. It's Polymaker HT-PLA. Check this stuff out, and the specs for heat resistance. The GF (glass fiber) stuff is supposedly even better, but even with me trying to snag a roll on the day they announced it, all they had was white, and it was backordered when I tried to order it 6 hours after they announced it. I have a roll of the black HT-PLA coming tomorrow, and got the green delivered yesterday. It looks like they've absolutely sold out of all but the colors at this link - I'll be using the green for prototypes, since the color isn't close to what the website makes it appear to be

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DZN8HVXM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I have some stuff I absolutely have to deal with, and won't be able to run my printer for at least 2 weeks, but the plan is to test out the green with some test prints for my car, just to see if the specs will live up to the hype, or if it's marketing voodoo, and then a Minimus hot end for my Ender 3v2. If the stuff is legit, that'll be easier to print than ABS, without the headaches. Still have ASA to try, but if I can hold off on that, and the fumes, I'm all for it.

I've printed a few things in PETG for the car, and while it works, 2 items have already deformed out of spec, and will require reprinting in something more robust, so I'll be putting the Polymaker stuff through the wringer ASAP. It only took a month for the PETG stuff to become useless, so I should know fairly quickly if the Polymaker stuff will work. I did a replacement garage door clip for a Toyota (and the ungodly thick sun visor), and it's already too loose to stay in place, so I'll throw the green Polymaker at that for testing purposes, and if it works out, I'll reprint in black later on down the line.

That's a really nice job that you did with that grey PETG, doesn't look printed at all! Did you fill the lettering with the nail polish first, and then sand and finish processing the panel? While that's some delicate work, I've done similar with a toothpick to avoid blobs, and a dry brush to finish off and level everything. Excellent workmanship on your panel, and definitely something to be proud of.

 

[mntnresq58]

Cool, I'll be curious to hear how it works. I have done a few prints with the Prusa PC Blend carbon fiber stuff, but wasn't really happy with the surface finish, just came out kinda... fuzzy. Time will tell, but my luck with the Creality PETG has been good. I've done quite a bit with ABS as well, but yeah, the smell and how it wants to curl are a pain.

I filled the lettering with a syringe, which was tedious- think I put 5 coats in. I was hoping to fill it flush with the surface, but that would have taken probably 20 coats, and I gave up, lol. I should have done another sanding after filling the lettering, as I did color outside the lines a bit as it were, and it would be a bit cleaner, but I got impatient, and the rest of the finish looked pretty good, so I left it. If I end up having to remake them because they warp or whatever, I'll be sure to fill them flush next time. What I'll probably do actually is make the lettering go full depth, fill it with colored epoxy that I can backlight the lettering. I did that on the cover I printed for my brew line, and that came out ok.