Going to tackle my first oil change by myself

[NewBoater]

Hey guys probably tomorrow or the day after I’m going to tackle my first oil change in the boat by myself. The last couple of years I have been taking it up to the dealer and I’m tired of spending $350 for something I can do for $60 myself. Any tips or tricks other than warming up engine? The dealer recommended Yamalube 10W-40. Said 6 quarts total it should be and also the oil filter he said is Yamaha part 5GH-13440-60. Does this sound like the right oil and filter for my boat?

Boat is 2015 SX210. 150-160 hours or so. He said he did not recommend changing the spark plugs since I just did them at 100 hours last fall. Oil filter seems very small but I haven’t checked yet to make sure it matches what’s in the boat.

Any tips or tricks are much appreciated. On a 65 degree day warm up engine for 5 min or so? I got a 6 Liter/quart oil extractor ready to go. I assume rub some new oil on seal of filter like when doing a car.

Also since I had a lift installed I’m debating leaving on lift for winter instead of its normal home in garage for winter. I’ve never winterized since it’s been garage kept.
Is fogging necessary or just fuel stabilizer and antifreeze and I should be good? Va beach area so it typically doesn’t stay cold or freezing all winter. But it can happen and did last winter.

Thanks for any help.

 

[captras]

1. Not a whole lot to winterizing. If you havnt already done it, flush your engines....even if you are not a salt water operator, even fresh water can have chemicals and debris that you would not want sitting in your system for several months. Make sure you do engine on/water on.....water off/engine off to avoid damaging your engines. Before you shut each engine down, rev it a little, I usually do 1/2-3/4 throttle, really quick to blow out excess water.
2. Make sure your boat is level when you draw out the oil to make sure you get out as much as possible.
3. I have read that it is very important not to overfill, so when you evacuate the oil from each engine, make a note of exactly how much your sucked out and only replace that much.
3. I am in Texas so I dont have the need to fog. I do spray my engines with Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication 12 oz aerosol just to keep any chance of corrosion down while not in use. I always use Stabil 360 in my fuel at every fill up, but if you havnt put in stabilizer, buy the 360 since it is designed for marine use.
4. I also spray all my exterior cables, rods, jet nozzles, bearings with Maxima 74920 Chain Wax - 13.5 oz. Aerosol, which helps prevent corrosion on your exterior metal pars.
4. I use a dehumidifier to keep the moisture down under the cover. This has, for me, completely eliminated the formation of mildew inside the hull and on the upholstery. I use a Whynter RPD-411WG Energy Star Portable Dehumidifier, 40-Pint dehumidifier that has been great.
5. Lastly, I have a battery tender on each battery.
Probably sounds like a lot alot after saying not much....but trust me, compared to a stern drive I/O, it is simple.

 

[Scottintexas]

is your lift covered? that's a lot of extra UV on your boat cover if the lift isn't,

I can't remember if your model boat has a fogging inlet on the fuel rail? some models past 2009 did, check your manual,

If the lift is covered and if you get a nice day you'd actually take it out I'd leave it on the lift, fog it if it's going to sit for more than 2 months, definitely put in some stabil and if you have a nice weather day get out and run it for an hour and enjoy it,

I would not use antifreeze,

oil changes are easy,

 

[Scottintexas]

if you've not seen it, be sure to look at the FAQ tab at the top of the page for lot's of great links on DIY

 

[djetok]

Get a style oil filter wrench like this
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Adjustab...5035&wl11=online&wl12=716276712&wl13=&veh=sem

It's tough to get the filter off as there isn't a lot of room between the filter and the side of the boat

Other than that easy job. I probably change my plugs too much but it's too easy to do. I do new plugs every season.

 

[robert843]

I change my plugs every oil change for the heck of it. Gives me something to do while the oil drains lol. Biggest advice I could give even though I think you already got one is spend some of the extra change your saving to buy a nice oil extractor. I bought one from tractor supply for like $50 two years ago and its been used to change the oil in 14 engines over that two years and it is kind of beat up already. I will probably upgrade to an electric one versus the vacuum pressure kind this year.

 

[swatski]

I use a dehumidifier to keep the moisture down under the cover. This has, for me, completely eliminated the formation of mildew inside the hull and on the upholstery. I use a Whynter RPD-411WG Energy Star Portable Dehumidifier, 40-Pint dehumidifier that has been great.

Would this work in colder climates, when it freezes over? Or would the unit be damaged?

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[NewBoater]

I’ve decided to just put the boat back in the garage again for the winter like the last couple of winters. It still looks brand new after a couple of years and I want to keep it that way. Today I’m going to drive the boat 30 minutes to the ramp then take it back home and change the oil before tucking it away in the garage. If it takes me 30-45 minutes driving boat to get home after putting the boat on the trailer will the oil still be warm enough after? Or warm engine up again at home?

 

[swatski]

I’ve decided to just put the boat back in the garage again for the winter like the last couple of winters. It still looks brand new after a couple of years and I want to keep it that way. Today I’m going to drive the boat 30 minutes to the ramp then take it back home and change the oil before tucking it away in the garage. If it takes me 30-45 minutes driving boat to get home after putting the boat on the trailer will the oil still be warm enough after? Or warm engine up again at home?

Should be just about perfect.

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[NewBoater]

Should be just about perfect.

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Awesome, your the best. Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[Julian]

I would not use antifreeze,

What he said!!!!!! I know it is hard for people that have always done this to break the habit....seems like its as addictive as smoking....but PLEASE don't waste your time flushing the engines with anti freeze! Hard ballast tanks, water tanks...ok...if you can't drain them. The engines are A WASTE OF TIME (and some money)!

 

[djetok]

I change my plugs every oil change for the heck of it. Gives me something to do while the oil drains lol. Biggest advice I could give even though I think you already got one is spend some of the extra change your saving to buy a nice oil extractor. I bought one from tractor supply for like $50 two years ago and its been used to change the oil in 14 engines over that two years and it is kind of beat up already. I will probably upgrade to an electric one versus the vacuum pressure kind this year.

I bought one this year that hooks to a compressor it works awesome!!!

 

[captras]

Would this work in colder climates, when it freezes over? Or would the unit be damaged?

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Well. ...I hadn't thought of the consequences of freezing. ...don't think about those things down here but something to consider! That being said, it does have an auto shut off when the humidity goes below what you set, so it doesn't ruin constantly.

 

[Matt Phillips]

Couple of tips I've used that work well...

1). Get some puppy piddle pads and strategically place them under the oil filters before removing. The filters will leak oil as they are on sideways, and the pads work to collect a lot of that spilled oil. it's also nice to put one on top of the opposite engine you're working on, so that way you don't get rogue drops of oil on top of that engine from the dipstick, oil cap, etc.

2). Since I installed Seadek in the main cabin of the boat, I've purchased the cheapest 4x6 tarps I could find from amazon (they were like $10-12 for three) and I spread one down on the floor when changing the oil. Again, this is just insurance against getting any spills on the Seadek and fro $3, it'll keep me from having to try to remove oil stains from that area.

3). Change your spark plugs annually. I usually do mine in the spring after the initial start-up. Although you may not "need" to change them that often, these engines seem to be finicky when it comes to spark and changing them keeps this issue at arms length (and not rearing its head on a day when I want to enjoy the boat).

 

[NewBoater]

So I changed my oil today and for some reason after measuring and taking out just shy of 3 gallons out of each of the engines and putting in 3 gallons into each my starboard is reading over the full mark by a little on dipstick. Definitely higher than other engine. That’s after warming them up and measuring when hot. Should I siphon back out some of the new oil and remeasure? Or just leave it and let it be a little high?

 

[haknslash]

So I changed my oil today and for some reason after measuring and taking out just shy of 3 gallons out of each of the engines and putting in 3 gallons into each my starboard is reading over the full mark by a little on dipstick. Definitely higher than other engine. That’s after warming them up and measuring when hot. Should I siphon back out some of the new oil and remeasure? Or just leave it and let it be a little high?

GALLONS??!!!

I hope that is a typo!! If you have the 1.8 engine they hold 4 quarts each, assuming you got most of the old oil pumped out.

 

[NewBoater]

GALLONS??!!!

I hope that is a typo!! If you have the 1.8 engine they hold 4 quarts each, assuming you got most of the old oil pumped out.

Lol typo. Quarts

 

[haknslash]

Lol good because I would imagine 3 gallons would show just a weeeee bit overfilled on the dip stick

 

[NewBoater]

I feel like I took out slightly less than 3 quarts on one of the engines and put in just a hair over 3 quarts. Not sure if I should suck some out and then warm them up and re check dipstick and repeat until engines are close to same on dipsticks. It’s definitely reading a hair over full mark on dipstick

 

[MidnightRider]

I feel like I took out slightly less than 3 quarts on one of the engines and put in just a hair over 3 quarts. Not sure if I should suck some out and then warm them up and re check dipstick and repeat until engines are close to same on dipsticks. It’s definitely reading a hair over full mark on dipstick

Wouldn't hurt to suck a little out, however if its just a "hair" over the full mark I don't think I'd worry about it too much. Probably depends on if you can let it go or not - if its going to bother you then its probably worth the little bit of time it would take to suck out a bit to get it to where it should be. As far as the engines being the same as each other, there is no reason for that - just should be at a level somewhere between the low and full marks.