High car payment? No problem…

[suke]

Column shifters are awesome and make sense for space usage. Console shifters are stupid, and are an aethestic choice ONLY. There is NO logistical reason to have an automatic transmission shifter take up space on the console. I'll die on this hill !!!

Also, The Titan option packages are a little weird, but even the Platinum Reserve is only like $73k. I really do think the Titan is THE value truck to be had.

LOL! I'm of the opposite mind set. I hate the column shifters, but will agree it's purely for cosmetic reasons. Mostly held over from learning to drive with a manual and I like to rest my hand on the shifter. I'm coming around to the fact that Nissan has 100k bumper to bumper warranty and you can get those things for a "steal", comparatively, lightly used.

 

[BlkGS]

Column shifters are awesome and make sense for space usage. Console shifters are stupid, and are an aethestic choice ONLY. There is NO logistical reason to have an automatic transmission shifter take up space on the console. I'll die on this hill !!!

Also, The Titan option packages are a little weird, but even the Platinum Reserve is only like $73k. I really do think the Titan is THE value truck to be had.

Ram's dial on the dash is IMO the best. Platinum reserve forces you into BROWN leather. Not for me. SL is the trim of want but they lock you out of features I'd want. Pro4x is the only way to get what I want but then they stick you with silly off-road stuff I don't want.

 

[BlkGS]

LOL! I'm of the opposite mind set. I hate the column shifters, but will agree it's purely for cosmetic reasons. Mostly held over from learning to drive with a manual and I like to rest my hand on the shifter. I'm coming around to the fact that Nissan has 100k bumper to bumper warranty and you can get those things for a "steal", comparatively, lightly used.

They also heavily discount them new too.

I could probably learn to live with a column shifter again. But I also would be perfectly fine with a lower mile truck that was 3 years old too vs paying for a brand new one.

I've personally decided I'm gonna hold out for a low mile, fully loaded 5.0 f150 with the special edition package, them lower it and Whipple it. Outside of that, MAYBE a Roush that's already done that, or the Shelby. The roush is a tvs blower vs the Whipple on the Shelby, with a ~100 HP disadvantage for the roush.

 

[2kwik4u]

Ram's dial on the dash is IMO the best. Platinum reserve forces you into BROWN leather. Not for me. SL is the trim of want but they lock you out of features I'd want. Pro4x is the only way to get what I want but then they stick you with silly off-road stuff I don't want.

I agree. The dash switch (Ram dial, or Tahoe push button) is the best arrangement to be had. Column is second best. Console is dead last for me. I hate them with the passion of unreasonable magnitude. Even my Audi's console shifter is effing stupid. If I'm going to shift myself I have paddles. If I'm not, then why they hell do I need something taking up console space?!?!

I think a used '21+ Titan is the best bet out there right now. They are just this side of non-destructible and have all the modern features of the others. You can find gently used examples in the low $40k range with the Pro4X package. Neighbor beats the dammit out of his (has like 95k miles on his '22) as a construction foreman and he's only had to put tires and brakes on it. Miles ahead of the two GM's he had previously. My only gripe is the abysmal fuel economy. 14mpg combined is a stretch, and they run on premium. Reliable as an anvil, but expensive to keep fueled.

 

[suke]

I agree. The dash switch (Ram dial, or Tahoe push button) is the best arrangement to be had. Column is second best. Console is dead last for me. I hate them with the passion of unreasonable magnitude. Even my Audi's console shifter is effing stupid. If I'm going to shift myself I have paddles. If I'm not, then why they hell do I need something taking up console space?!?!

I think a used '21+ Titan is the best bet out there right now. They are just this side of non-destructible and have all the modern features of the others. You can find gently used examples in the low $40k range with the Pro4X package. Neighbor beats the dammit out of his (has like 95k miles on his '22) as a construction foreman and he's only had to put tires and brakes on it. Miles ahead of the two GM's he had previously. My only gripe is the abysmal fuel economy. 14mpg combined is a stretch, and they run on premium. Reliable as an anvil, but expensive to keep fueled.

Why does he put premium in his? Users manual says regular for the Titan. I put premium in my EB 3.5 already so I'm somewhat used to that, BUT I also get decent gas mileage. Slightly worse gas mileage with slightly cheaper gas would likely be a wash there.

Ahhhh I see what you're saying. Yeah to achieve the "max hp" rating premium is required but it'll run on 87 just fine. However, your peak HP is expected to be 390 instead of 400.

 

[BlkGS]

Why does he put premium in his? Users manual says regular for the Titan. I put premium in my EB 3.5 already so I'm somewhat used to that, BUT I also get decent gas mileage. Slightly worse gas mileage with slightly cheaper gas would likely be a wash there.

Ahhhh I see what you're saying. Yeah to achieve the "max hp" rating premium is required but it'll run on 87 just fine. However, your peak HP is expected to be 390 instead of 400.

Fun fact, the Ecoboost 3.5 is the same motor for all outputs, the Lincoln versions and the ones rated at 400hp are just using the premium fuel power figure.

The Raptor /Stealth Performance motor just has the tuning tweaked slightly to make more power. An aftermarket tune pushes them closer to 500hp crank than 375 theyr rated at stock.

 

[suke]

Fun fact, the Ecoboost 3.5 is the same motor for all outputs, the Lincoln versions and the ones rated at 400hp are just using the premium fuel power figure.

The Raptor /Stealth Performance motor just has the tuning tweaked slightly to make more power. An aftermarket tune pushes them closer to 500hp crank than 375 theyr rated at stock.

Oh yeah aftermarket tunes can really make these things pump out power. Internals and fuel pumps is where you'll find your weak link.

 

[BigN8]

I agree. The dash switch (Ram dial, or Tahoe push button) is the best arrangement to be had. Column is second best. Console is dead last for me. I hate them with the passion of unreasonable magnitude. Even my Audi's console shifter is effing stupid. If I'm going to shift myself I have paddles. If I'm not, then why they hell do I need something taking up console space?!?!

I think a used '21+ Titan is the best bet out there right now. They are just this side of non-destructible and have all the modern features of the others. You can find gently used examples in the low $40k range with the Pro4X package. Neighbor beats the dammit out of his (has like 95k miles on his '22) as a construction foreman and he's only had to put tires and brakes on it. Miles ahead of the two GM's he had previously. My only gripe is the abysmal fuel economy. 14mpg combined is a stretch, and they run on premium. Reliable as an anvil, but expensive to keep fueled.

I have an F-150. Column shift. Wife has a Volvo XC90, Crystal console shifter. I hate when it’s date night, I get in the Volvo and reach for the column shifter and my hand grabs nothing and slaps my knee. Feels so stupid, but my lizard brain will just never learn there is no shifter on the column. Her shifter is funky too. You bump it forward 2 clicks to go in reverse and pull it backwards 2 clicks to go forward. In what universe does that make sense???

 

[BlkGS]

I have an F-150. Column shift. Wife has a Volvo XC90, Crystal console shifter. I hate when it’s date night, I get in the Volvo and reach for the column shifter and my hand grabs nothing and slaps my knee. Feels so stupid, but my lizard brain will just never learn there is no shifter on the column. Her shifter is funky too. You bump it forward 2 clicks to go in reverse and pull it backwards 2 clicks to go forward. In what universe does that make sense???

So you married.up, huh?

All jokes aside, they likely did it to mimic the PRNDL layout that is pretty much standard.

 

[BigN8]

So you married.up, huh?

All jokes aside, they likely did it to mimic the PRNDL layout that is pretty much standard.

So based on that the Volvo shifter begins at Neutral??

 

[BlkGS]

So based on that the Volvo shifter begins at Neutral??

I think it's of a "reverse is forward of drive" thing, but yeah that's the other way to look at it. That's how some of the early SMG transmissions were set up too.

It's still goofy, but that's my guess as to why they might have done it. But really, is the layout any goofier than using a piece of crystal for a shifter?

 

[2kwik4u]

...... Her shifter is funky too. You bump it forward 2 clicks to go in reverse and pull it backwards 2 clicks to go forward. In what universe does that make sense???

So based on that the Volvo shifter begins at Neutral??

My Q7 is this way as well. It took a solid month of daily driving to get used to how it works. You're not a lizard brain, shits way more complicated than it needs to be. This could all just be steering wheel and dash buttons/controls, or even a Mercedes/Tesla/Rivian style stalk to control the transmission.

<--Shifter on Q7. It "rests" in park. Has two "bumps" available forward, and one "bump" available backwards. Also will slide/tilt to passenger side for manual mode. Park is just a button.

Shifter "rests" in one location. Push button and a single "bump" forward is neutral, add a second bump OR go TWO bumps on the first move and you get reverse. Single "bump" backwards and you get drive. Park is a button on the shifter. While driving forward, a single bump forward will go to neutral without the button, and a single bump backwards toggles between Drive and Sport. Also, while driving forward, from resting position, push shifter to passenger side and it move you into manual mode. once in manual a single bump forward is +1 gear, single bump backwards is -1 gear.

Now, paddle shifters. They work all the time anytime. If you're in D or S it will shift from current gear, put trans in Manual mode, and allow shifting. If no input is received it goes back to the previous D or S after a given time. Also, you can hold down the + paddle for 5 seconds and it will dump you back into D or S. In manual mode it holds the gear selected unless revs drop below 750rpm or ride the rev limiter for longer than 3 seconds. I will give Audi props for making the trans tuning in manual mode quite intuitive. As long as you don't violate the rev limit rules above it stays in the gear you tell it regardless of load or throttle position.......NOW.....a note on throttle position. There is a WOT "detent" in the pedal. If you are WOT but NOT past the detent the trans stays where it is (in manual mode), if you go past the detent it reverts back to Sport mode, downshifts and applies full power. Best I can tell this is a sort of safety feature, like a "full power to accelerate but you forgot you were in 8th gear at 40mph" type thing.

Gotta say, with all that. Stepping from the Audi to the Silverado is a step back in simplicity. Column shifter and cable throttle. Shits dead simple and just works without any confusion or learning curve. I love it.........I think I'm getting old.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Totally agree with you about console located shifters… I wonder if it’s sort of thing that goes back to manual gear boxes, even the 70’s Chevelles had a H shifter on the console.

Totally agree also about paddle shifters.

My 20 F-350 has a column shifter, with the gear lock out / manual shifting via a momentary toggle on the column shifter arm, with the different transmission modes via a push bottom on the very end of the arm-normal, tow/haul, eco, slippery, deep sand /snow-this one requires a shift of the trans fer case to 4L. The gear lock out is used to remove gears from operation beginning with 10th and you can remove all gears all the way down through second. Manual operation is achieved by pulling the arm down past D to M, the PCM will prevent you from upshifting if the rpm’s are too low or downshifting if the revs will go too high, the PCM will also adjust the gear to match the envelope, for example if you are going too slow for a given gear it will drop to the next lowest gear, and will return to 1st gear if you come to a stop, but it will not shift up even if you are up against the governor. If you are in tow/haul, and you crest a hill in lets say 7th gear and you let off off the throttle and start to pick up speed coasting, the PCM will downshift the trans to 6th to help maintain descent speed, it will continue to do so without over revving the engine. If you are going down a hill, or are slowing down while in tow / haul and are using the brakes, the PCM will downshift the trans, and will downshift more aggressively depending on the amount of braking pressure you apply. It is impressive how quickly the trans will downshift under heavy braking. If you are towing with the engine brake set to automatic, trans in tow / haul and are using the cruise control, when descending a hill, the PCM will first engage the engine brake, then down shift if there is not enough engine braking power, then the brakes will get applied (I only allow this for very short periods of time before I pause the cruise control) if the speed continues to increase in concert with more downshifting to keep the speed under control, then return to the selected speed once you are back on flat ground. Probably the least fatiguing truck I’ve ever owned to tow with.

 

[jthackman]

do you know if ford's engine braking is similar to my ram's exhaust brake? it works really well helping manage my 5th wheel

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

do you know if ford's engine braking is similar to my ram's exhaust brake? it works really well helping manage my 5th wheel

I don’t know how the dodge one works, on the ford the ECM just pinches down the VVT to increase back pressure to increase exhaust gas velocity and dramatically increase the boost pressure. It does work pretty darn good.

 

[TimW451]

My Q7 is this way as well. It took a solid month of daily driving to get used to how it works. You're not a lizard brain, shits way more complicated than it needs to be. This could all just be steering wheel and dash buttons/controls, or even a Mercedes/Tesla/Rivian style stalk to control the transmission.

View attachment 203007 <--Shifter on Q7. It "rests" in park. Has two "bumps" available forward, and one "bump" available backwards. Also will slide/tilt to passenger side for manual mode. Park is just a button.

Shifter "rests" in one location. Push button and a single "bump" forward is neutral, add a second bump OR go TWO bumps on the first move and you get reverse. Single "bump" backwards and you get drive. Park is a button on the shifter. While driving forward, a single bump forward will go to neutral without the button, and a single bump backwards toggles between Drive and Sport. Also, while driving forward, from resting position, push shifter to passenger side and it move you into manual mode. once in manual a single bump forward is +1 gear, single bump backwards is -1 gear.

Now, paddle shifters. They work all the time anytime. If you're in D or S it will shift from current gear, put trans in Manual mode, and allow shifting. If no input is received it goes back to the previous D or S after a given time. Also, you can hold down the + paddle for 5 seconds and it will dump you back into D or S. In manual mode it holds the gear selected unless revs drop below 750rpm or ride the rev limiter for longer than 3 seconds. I will give Audi props for making the trans tuning in manual mode quite intuitive. As long as you don't violate the rev limit rules above it stays in the gear you tell it regardless of load or throttle position.......NOW.....a note on throttle position. There is a WOT "detent" in the pedal. If you are WOT but NOT past the detent the trans stays where it is (in manual mode), if you go past the detent it reverts back to Sport mode, downshifts and applies full power. Best I can tell this is a sort of safety feature, like a "full power to accelerate but you forgot you were in 8th gear at 40mph" type thing.

Gotta say, with all that. Stepping from the Audi to the Silverado is a step back in simplicity. Column shifter and cable throttle. Shits dead simple and just works without any confusion or learning curve. I love it.........I think I'm getting old.

I swear I read before that the layout you show, RNPD, was invented as a safer alternative to PRNDL as it eliminated going through reverse when shifting from park to drive. But, I can’t find any evidence to support that (in the 2 seconds I allotted to search).

 

[2kwik4u]

I swear I read before that the layout you show, RNPD, was invented as a safer alternative to PRNDL as it eliminated going through reverse when shifting from park to drive. But, I can’t find any evidence to support that (in the 2 seconds I allotted to search).

I've heard similar things, but nothing written down, just people talking.

With that said I think it's backwards myself. Should be DPNR. I should push the control forward to go forward (D), or backwards to go backwards (R). Likewise the +/- on the manual are backwards. I should pull back to upshift (because you're accelerating, and your hand naturally goes rearward anyway), and push forward to downshift. That's under the premise that you need a shifter at all. Move to a push button or stalk with paddle shifters and it's all a moot point.

It is an interesting thought on the stalk shifters. Park is a button on the end. Drive is down, and Reverse is up. Not sure how you get to Neutral, maybe push towards dash?