Hose clips

[Murf'n'surf]

Arrived in Florida, just picked up the Atwood scupper, a shed load of AWAB clamps, a box CR9EB plugs and 2 Rule 3" blowers A quick question what do you recommend for sealant on the scupper 3M 5200, 4200 or something else. I would buy a big tube but over there in the heat its liable to be dead in short order. I guess a 3 oz tube would be enough. Let me know.................. Thanks

4200 would be my choice of sealant.

 

[Julian]

I also went with a 3 oz tube of 4200....probably have 2 ounces left!

 

[Bruce]

Arrived in Florida, just picked up the Atwood scupper, a shed load of AWAB clamps, a box CR9EB plugs and 2 Rule 3" blowers A quick question what do you recommend for sealant on the scupper 3M 5200, 4200 or something else. I would buy a big tube but over there in the heat its liable to be dead in short order. I guess a 3 oz tube would be enough. Let me know.................. Thanks

5200 is permanent. 4200 or Life-Calk will allow you to remove and reinstall in the future. I used Life-Calk. Please be very careful anywhere you use 5200.

 

[scopeusa]

Thanks 4200 it is

 

[scopeusa]

Julian I looked out my design for a waterproof steering cable seal. I have a 3D solid works file if you are interested to take a look, I can give you a download link, you have to install solid works viewer which is zipped within the file, cheers

 

[scopeusa]

Well I am back on island armed with a heap of parts. Two new blower motors, a shed load of AWAB SS clamps, I preferred these as the thread is not cut through the band which hopefully makes them more corrosion resistant and stronger. Having said that my exhaust clips in the engine bay look like new, I guess its the difference between what was given filming oil /corrosion inhibitor and what was forgotten under the plug tray. When I inspected the original scupper the tube looks sound but the face of the ring is starting to crystallize and flake to the point where you can scratch the plastic away with your finger nails! Looking in that tray area along with a couple of clips at the back of the engine I was thinking that I might try and contact Clint Eastward and see if still has Clyde, his arms might just be long enough, I guess it comes down to, any which way you can! I milled out a rough wrench to fit the Attwood, I could have spent more time on it but it will do the job and lets face it I will only use it once. A guy contacted me on island that has an AR230, it has been neglected and yes the bungs are completely seized. I have read up on the FAQ and note some of the tricks to get them out. I can apply lift pressure real easy as I have a fork truck. No I will park the forks over the bung and place my center scissor jack that I have for my motorcycle lift across the two forks and put a couple of wire loops around the T handle connected to the jack. That way I have no pressure on the hull and enough room to get in there to tap away without too much lift pressure. Ice sounds like it might help, and it cannot hurt. I have two spare bungs that came with my boat, that I squeezed out of the sales manager to clinch the deal which I am changing over to and I will get a couple of repair kits to put the old ones back on the shelf.

 

[Topper232]

@scopeusa can you post a link to where you got them? I'm going to need to do the same thing this spring......along with the new scupper valve that I just got.

Thx

 

[scopeusa]

I purchased them through a marine wholesaler that only sells to the trade, one of the owners is a friend but I believe you can order them on Amazon, not sure of the prices though. The scupper pipe was stuck like it was welded. The pipe was also pretty stiff, probably degradation due to the heat out here. This made it impossible to pull from the engine bay. I gave up and used a HF multi tool to cut the original off at the point where the pipe stopped on the scupper. It was easy to reach with the tool and only took seconds. I removed the nut with the wrench I made and used a HF slide hammer to hook out the remainder of the old scupper. I then removed the pipe from the boat. I applied gentle heat with a HF heat gun and used the hooks of the slide hammer to pull the cut off section of the scupper from the pipe. I realized after wards it would have been better to wind the nut nearly off and cut the scupper in front of the nut. You can then set your vice to support the nut and pull on the pipe. The Attwood SS scupper was longer than the Perko original by the same length as the pipe fed onto the original so it would be feasible to just cut the pipe at the back of the Perko and still have the correct pipe length for the Attwood. The silly thing is the tools used to do the job cost less than the new scupper! Today proved that having the right tools can make the job a lot easier, some Harbor Freight tools are worth having, some are junk but when your use is infrequent its sometimes worth a look.

 

[scopeusa]

I have been off the grid for a while, the boat is now back on the water and the engines are running sweet. I swapped out the plugs for new ones and I think I read somewhere that some members had problems with #3 seizing. My came out as if they were put in yesterday a little bit blacker around the general plug than I expected to see but in between the gap they were clean and light brown. Anyway the problem with the starting has reoccurred once or twice click and nothing, then fire up on the second turn of the switch by waiting 1 second with the switch on, 90% of the time no problem. As I could see the connections from the camera still had bolts with a shine and no evidence of corrosion (probably because they caught applications of filming oil) I will replace the relays.

I just want to say a big thanks to all you guys who contributed, this forum woke me up to essential maintenance that I had completely missed. Another regular visitor to the island has a 2005 AR230HO. I helped him by towing his boat out of the water. In the process I tried to remove his port bungs, totally frozen. I then whipped off the two screw down access ports in the clean out tray and promptly removed two 6' and two 4" clamps and yes his scupper is suspect. This is potentially life saving stuff, there are virtually no rescue services around these islands.

I replaced both blower motors that had seized. The convoluted pipe that fits on to the 3" Rule ends is was very difficult to slide on. It was only made possible for me by fitting the pipes to the blowers prior to installing them and then fix the retaining screw zip ties. On one pipe it was so stubborn that all my efforts were thwarted even with a wipe of WD. I had to resort to cutting the first reinforcement wire 180 degrees around the first revolution. this enabled the pipe to expand sufficiently to get it started and still allow plenty of pipe to slide up and secure with a zip tie.

I had one other problem. There is a drain on my 2008 that runs along the top of the seats and connects to a through hull type fitting at the back of the engine bay cover next to breather holes that are located behind the seat panel. Well the head of this fitting just fell off. I was going to have to remove the bathing platform seat back but first I thought I would check to see if there was a suitable replacement on island. There was not. Anyway I noticed that the fitting nut had a very broad seat so I spun the nut on so that they was sufficient pipe penetrating the hole and then used 3M 4200 sealer on the pipe and the face of the nut. I then screwed the nut to the seat back. This provides a good fix as the plastic pipe and nut were in good shape.