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Installed SVHO cooler + Question

Squirrel

Well-Known Member
Messages
21
Reaction score
2
Points
57
Location
las vegas
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2013
Boat Model
AR192
Boat Length
19
I have been out on my 2013 AR195 several times at Lake Mead. I have noticed on long runs I lose 4 to 5 MPH (40MPH) while trying to keep up with my Nordic friends (V8 Jerks :). I just finished my install of the SVHO cooler and going this weekend to test it out. I hope all is good and there is some kind of difference. I just want to be able to reach 55MPH and cruise at 48 to 50 :)

I was thinking of this as my next mod.
https://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_215&products_id=2351

I was reading somewhere that I might have to change my impeller pitch and play with the cone to find the sweet spot.

1. Does anyone have a recommendation for an impeller?

2. Has anyone used one of these cones b4 and did you notice a difference? Also, where is a good starting point on the setting for the cone?

cooler.jpg

Thank you
Justin
 
You will need a tune and supercharger wheel to hit 55 mph. Probably need a better intercooler than the SVHO to hold that speed.

Holding 48-50 mph is possible with the SVHO intercooler and ribbon delete. The Lucky 13 Cone helps with cavitation on hole shot and will drop rpm by 100-200, but it's not going to add speed.

Adding a dedicated cooling line for that intercooler is important to get the full benefit of the install.
 
Don't touch the impeller until you get the intercooler, dedicated cooling line, and ribbon delete.
 
How reliable would it be with the tune and a Wheel? I was told by the guys over at GreenHulk to get that cone and it would add higher top speeds and better acceleration. Hmmmm

Wow, 940.00 bucks for the Riva V-Tech maptuner X and another 550 for one tune then another 600 for this https://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_82_163&products_id=5133 16psi + fizzle cooler. LOL over 3K to go 5MPH faster. Sounds like a plan.

Also looking for an intake for this boat any ideas

Everywhere I look everything is for Waverunners. I wish there was a section just for jetboats since I don't know what fits this boat or is made just for wave runners.

Any ideas on impeller?
 
How reliable would it be with the tune and a Wheel? I was told by the guys over at GreenHulk to get that cone and it would add higher top speeds and better acceleration. Hmmmm

Wow, 940.00 bucks for the Riva V-Tech maptuner X and another 550 for one tune then another 600 for this https://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_82_163&products_id=5133 16psi. LOL over 2K to go 5MPH faster. Sounds like a plan.

Any ideas on impeller?
That 16 psi wheel is way too much for what you want to do. All the info you need is on Greenhulk and this forum. Do some research. It's your machine and wallet.

The guys on Greenhulk are in a different power range than you. Everything they do does not apply to a stock boat.
 
I just saw this wheel https://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_82_163&products_id=1061 10-13PSI.

Is that ribbon delete that important. I keep hearing mixed comments. One saying that at my level (lake mead) would not be a big difference but he is at a higher sea level. That and one guy comments that his rubber ring tore apart and messed his motor up.
I am learning as I go and thank you. Just was thinking you guys might have some cool info or tricks.
 
I wish ppl with these AR195's had more videos of them with performance parts/Mods. Not enough on youtube. Might make my own intake since it looks like it does not go anywhere.
 
I just saw this wheel https://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_82_163&products_id=1061 10-13PSI.

Is that ribbon delete that important. I keep hearing mixed comments. One saying that at my level (lake mead) would not be a big difference but he is at a higher sea level. That and one guy comments that his rubber ring tore apart and messed his motor up.
I am learning as I go and thank you. Just was thinking you guys might have some cool info or tricks.

The ribbon delete is worth doing. It is causing a slight drop in boost. That C3-11 wheel is good, and can be used without a tune. You could then pitch up the stock impeller. Probably good for 52 mph.
 
The website is telling me that I will require the R&D High-Performance Racing R4 Intercooler Kit (PT # 612-18002), and an R&D Impellor upgrade

How or where can I learn how to pitch up the stock impeller?

So I can just drop in that wheel and not have to worry about nothing else and keep this SVHO cooler until next summer?

Again thank you so much for the info.
 
You can drop that wheel in and go. You will be very close to the boost limiter. If it hits the boost limit or rpm limit, you will have to pitch the impeller. It is very easy to do, there are threads here and Greenhulk on that subject.

You will be fine with the SVHO intercooler.
 
I don't think anyone has done more experimenting on the 192 than @SamCF so he is probably the closest thing to an expert you are going to find for these boats.

I noticed some better off-the-line punch after doing the ribbon delete on my boat. The issue with the rubber sleeve being sucked into the engine and destroying it is that it was left in in the first place. The rubber should have come out with the ribbon. I can't remember who it was who had that happen, but it was a mistake he humbly admitted to and highly regretted. The ribbon is to choke out any flame from a backfire. I have never heard of a fuel injected engine back firing before. The ribbons are a relic of the carbureted days.
 
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I have read a lot about pitching the stock impeller. Seems like its a bad idea due to stress and them breaking apart. Rather buy impeller that was made for that pitch. Where would you start at for pitch?
 
I have read a lot about pitching the stock impeller. Seems like its a bad idea due to stress and them breaking apart. Rather buy impeller that was made for that pitch. Where would you start at for pitch?
The impeller is the last thing you do. How do you know which way the impeller needs to go until you finish your mods and look at your speed and rpm? The stock impeller is the best way to go believe it or not.
 
What should I be looking for in the speeds and rpm once the mods are done?

As for the intake, should I just make my own or is there one for this boat. Also correction 2013 AR192.
 
Based off the pic I'd double check to make sure you have pushed your pipe on the intercooler real good. Looks like a pretty decent gap where the little nub is to stop the pipe from going further. Be sure your clamps are tight as well. I had my charge pipe blow loose on my test trial after the intercooler swap, so make sure the clamps are tightened with a nut driver and not a screw driver.

SVHO intercooler should get rid of your top speed loss. That is the heat soak and a known issue because the stock intercooler is too small for a heavier boat than the PWC it was originally designed for. If you plan to have even more power mods and really want to get into the 50's you will likely need an even larger aftermarket intercooler than the SVHO as it will give you more head room for making power.
 
They are really tight. I did not want to tighten so much to break the plastic. But yes I will try and get that on further. Beleive me they were a B!@## to get on. A little too small of a hose.
 
You want the hoses tight and hard to get on. Otherwise they would slip off under boost. ;)
 
O, believe me, they are so damn tight and I was using everything I had plus lube to get the damn hose on.
 
The maptuner is $940, but does include a tuning license so there is no need to buy an additional license for a single engine vessel. That tuning license gives access to the entire tuning library for that individual ECU and you can switch tunes at any point at no charge. I have it for my ar192 and can say it is well worth it.

The tuner can hold multiple tunes for multiple engines. An enterprising individual might want to look at discounted tuning license bundles as one tuner can service many vessels.

You would only need an additional license for a twin engine boat and that additional license will cost $550.

As for an intake, I went to Advance Auto and purchased a hi-flow conical oil/cotton air filter with modular inserts setup for 3" ID for $30, a 3" OD X 4" long aluminized steel pipe coupler for $6, a pcv breather filter for $12, a set of block off caps for $4, and a bag of zip ties for $2.

I took off the stock filter/airbox and disconnected the pcv vent line from the stock SC intake tube. Connected the coupler to the stock supercharger intake tube, and the high flow intake to the coupler with the original worm gear hose clamp and the supplied clamp in the filter kit. Connected the breather filter to the PCV line, and capped the connection fitting on the intake tube and zipped it tight. I then zipped up the breather filter to the line and zipped the line to the original airbox mount on the port bulkhead. I then provide strain relief and support/stability by zipping the intake tube to the ziptie mount on the forward bulkhead and ran a daisy chain zip tie set around the filter and through another stock bulkhead mount to keep it in place.

It's not pretty, but it is cheap, quick, and has zero fitment or performance issues for a total of $54. Compared to what some of the aftermarket companies charge for similar setups, I'm pretty happy with this DIY job. If I get more motivated I'll rig a bracket for the filter at some point.
 
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The maptuner is $940, but does include a tuning license so there is no need to buy an additional license for a single engine vessel. That tuning license gives access to the entire tuning library for that individual ECU and you can switch tunes at any point at no charge. I have it for my ar192 and can say it is well worth it.

The tuner can hold multiple tunes for multiple engines. An enterprising individual might want to look at discounted tuning license bundles as one tuner can service many vessels.

You would only need an additional license for a twin-engine boat and that additional license will cost $550.

As for an intake, I went to Advance Auto and purchased a hi-flow conical oil/cotton air filter with modular inserts setup for 3" ID for $30, a 3" OD X 4" long aluminized steel pipe coupler for $6, a pcv breather filter for $12, a set of block off caps for $4, and a bag of zip ties for $2.

I took off the stock filter/airbox and disconnected the PCV vent line from the stock SC intake tube. Connected the coupler to the stock supercharger intake tube, and the high flow intake to the coupler with the original worm gear hose clamp and the supplied clamp in the filter kit. Connected the breather filter to the PCV line, and capped the connection fitting on the intake tube and zipped it tight. I then zipped up the breather filter to the line and zipped the line to the original airbox mount on the port bulkhead. I then provide strain relief and support/stability by zipping the intake tube to the zip tie mount on the forward bulkhead and ran a daisy chain zip tie set around the filter and through another stock bulkhead mount to keep it in place.

It's not pretty, but it is cheap, quick, and has zero fitment or performance issues for a total of $54. Compared to what some of the aftermarket companies charge for similar setups, I'm pretty happy with this DIY job. If I get more motivated I'll rig a bracket for the filter at some point.



If you would be so kind to post a pic of it. Would be much appreciated. What about exhaust to help with completing the breathing
 
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