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JetBoatPilot's New Surf Tech, Thrust Vector Wake

I'm a Financial Advisor during the day, but at night and weekends Id much rather be on my snowmobiles, boat, or improving toys in the Garage turning wrench's than sit in front of a TV...ANY day. With that being said I'd say I have a solid "B -" ability in the shop...unless its Engine work...than I leave it to the experts..with that being said. This is my 4th product from Will and all I can say is I appreciate the heart and love that goes into the products when sent to us. I've done a lot of Mod's to my other previous boats as well and make many mods to my snowmobiles over the past 20 years. Never have I seen aftermarket piece designed so well as what I typically see come out of Will's shop. It's nice to have the little extras like, using one or 2 bolt sizes to simplify installs, having not only directions but his OWN install video's. I've put after market parts on my F150 from Stage 3 Motorsports...and even that large company doesn't have the packaging, details to engineering and video links as Will does.

I ordered the Wake setter and Lateral Thrusters for my Dual Jet 2006 AR 230 at the same time.

Installing the Lateral thrusters took 15 minutes...my 75 year old Dad with Parkinson's could have installed these things it was so easy. Can't wait to see if they help with reverse and making me look like an ultra cool jet boat pilot...looking like I'm docking a Carnival Cruise Ship with Bow thrusters.

With that being said, I'm taking my anal retentive time on this project as I want it right the first time so I can get on the water up here in Wisconsin and enjoy the 5 weeks of summer we (maybe)….. get and NOT be fixing things like upstops that come loose or steering cables that hang. So what I did was...took advice of a previous thread here suggested...Tonight installed everything without Loctite to see if I would have any hang ups or problems with install. Once I had everything installed and checked steering etc. I uninstalled and took apart everything, did the epoxy and will reinstall everything tomorrow afternoon for hopeful water test on Friday/Saturday. The problem we have, it has rained so much the previous 4 weeks, most of SE Wisconsin is under water, our lakes are high and rising. My neighbors see me doing all this boat work and think I'm NOAH getting ready to whisk my family of 5 on to the boat when our house starts floating away.....what I'm getting at is many many many of the lakes I go on have a NO WAKE rule right now! How do I test a wake product without a wake? Time will tell.

A few lessons from tonight. A. To give yourself as few variables as possible when installing these start before the fins even hit the water.

#1. Give your steering a oil bath. There is a link to show you how to give the ENTIRE cable length a good lubrication....do that first...so if you have stiff steering to begin with...maybe the new vectors will get stiffer and show itself more....so lube the cables. That took me some time to get the parts and do the job...but that's done. Here's the link to do it. https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-luber.9755/

#2. Double and triple check that your jets are facing directly rear. I had to adjust one of my 2 sides. I used a piece of angle iron and followed center line...adjusted the steering cable....and than eyeballed it from behind.
96203
96204

During the install I did compare the old Vector XL, they are wider than the new wakes and a bit shorter than the wakes....so it will be interesting to compare how the handle differently from each other. I also noticed that the New Wake Vectors are a lot stiffer springs...maybe my old vectors springs were just broken in...it definitely takes more strength on my part to lift the new springs compared to old springs though....the new Wake Vectors are black and right behind the old vectors Xl's in this picture...its hard to tell the new ones are on the boat...but I thought this may be helpful for comparison for some of you.
96205

So after I test fit everything (My upstops came Damn near perfect set from the factory for all 4 upstops for my 2006 model and per the video my allen wrench hit the guide right where it was supposed to be)....so I didn't make any micro adjustments at ALL to the upstops..we will see tomorrow after the epoxy sets and I reinstall if that is still the case.

So I than uninstalled everything and expoy'd the 4 hardware parts, my comments on the epoxy job;

A. I do have concerns that in month 2, year 3, or somewhere down the road this hardware that is expoyed to the jets to provide our upstop will loosen from the jet and make hell out of a trip....whether that be a ruined weekend, being in the middle of a large choppy lake or on your Bimini run. For me fortunately i'm in Wisconsin Fresh Water, The boat is trailered, and garage stored...so my expoy'd hardware will have less environmentals like salt water and a constant 4-5 month on the lift or in the slip type of boats.

B. I will be taking LIGHT sand paper tomorrow to the surface to smooth where the gates rotate.

C. Like many have said. Have EXTRA epoxy on hand. I've done plenty of fiberglass work on cars, used expoxy's for many years on many boats, I'm pretty meticulous on my mixes...and I used every single drop included.
C2. Watching the install video it states you should have a good half hour for the Epoxy, it was 70 degrees with 75% humidity in my garage tonight and I only got 15 good minutes working time...I had to work fast as things started to settle up pretty fast
C3 You definitely don't want to glob on epoxy as it can create air voids...but you want to saturate exactly how Will shows on the video the only difference. I use Q tips with the fuzzy end cut off..as its gives a smaller easier diameter application item to fine tune where you want the epoxy to go. Make sure you epoxy both the jet and the upstop hardware from behind. My epoxy job looked darn near perfect, I was Not heavy on expoxy..which takes me to the last point of the evening install part 1.
C4. It's definitely not enough epoxy that comes with the 2 packets. Fortunately I had 2 part Marine Epoxy on hand. I went over all 4 upstops and needed the extra to fill in the gaps, have extra marine epoxy on hand before install and make sure you read directions so that it has a similar curing times. Some marine epoxy's can take a week to cure. You don't want to ruin your whole install job by not doing this right....and you may not find you ruined that job till month 3, year 2, etc....do it right the first time...! Hence the reason I'm doing this in 2 days, Put all on boat, test the fitting, stearing etc. Take it all apart, do the epoxy...come in and tell your wife you have created another man project in the garage she can be proud of your alpha male status....write up your report for us to learn from each other.

Tomorrow..final install of all part with Loctite, rechecking upstops….etc. I can't say enough how much more engineering seems to go into this set of Vector's than my old ones..The old style are just fine if you want slow speed steering they work fantastic...if you don't do a ton of tubing or wakeboarding they'd be just fine. But I have 3 kids, the 20 and 16 year old love to wakeboard and want to try surfing, hence the reason for the new set....If was just tubing most of the time...I'd have kept the old vector's as those work GREAT! Until tomorrow for install part 2. Basically Re attach everything.

It's a Good Life

Marc M.
 
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I wonder if the issue with steering radius isn't the fact that the deflector acts as an extension to the pump nozzle in effect creating a longer nozzle (fins up) thus less of a steering angle because of the additional distance from the nozzle pivot to the end of the deflector along with more concentrated propulsion. I haven't taken my boat out with the TVW as I just installed tonight. Curious if I'll have the same experience with reduced radius.
My brain is bleeding trying to figure out what you just said...glad I'm not an engineer. I don't do smart guy engineer talk....my garage cave man.... let us know how the radius goes.
 
I wonder if the issue with steering radius isn't the fact that the deflector acts as an extension to the pump nozzle in effect creating a longer nozzle (fins up) thus less of a steering angle because of the additional distance from the nozzle pivot to the end of the deflector along with more concentrated propulsion. I haven't taken my boat out with the TVW as I just installed tonight. Curious if I'll have the same experience with reduced radius.
That is a good point - so, if the bolts that pivot steering nozzle function as a "fulcrum", the longer the "arm" (jet stream that needs bent) the more force required. That would explain the heavy feel of the steering.
But, unless you change the angle the steering nozzle can be turned, the turning radius of the boat should be the same assuming the lenght increase here (of the steering nozzle w/o deflector) is pretty negligible (in relation to the turn radius). I think.

--
 
I just finished my install tonight which went fairly well on my 2015 AR210. There wasn't quite enough epoxy probably because of my messiness but I picked up some Marine J-B Weld epoxy to finish the job and more Loctite which I had on hand. I recommend the same for others unless you're pinching pennies as the install is much more relaxing if you don't have to fuss over how much material you're using. Understandable that they only include "just enough" in the kit but slobs like me don't take our time and need the extra. :nailbiting:

I did the exact same thing with the epoxy. JB weld marine grade. I sure didn’t want this brackets to come off.
 
I am looking to finally install these this weekend on a brand new (fin-less) 2019. about how long should I be letting this sit for everything to cure, meaning the epoxy and Loctite? if need be, I can complete this on Monday, and let it sit for an entire week without touching it. I have ordered the J-B Weld to have on hand, and I already have a huge bottle of Loctite at the ready
 
I snapped my anode bolts on one of my pumps. Any ideas on how to get them out instead of drilling them out?
 

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I snapped my anode bolts on one of my pumps. Any ideas on how to get them out instead of drilling them out?
I've never removed my anodes before so just spit-balling here,
can you tap on the back side of the anode to knock it off the bolt (since the head is snapped off) and then remove the remainder of the bolt with vice grips ?
 
I'm a Financial Advisor during the day, but at night and weekends Id much rather be on my snowmobiles, boat, or improving toys in the Garage turning wrench's than sit in front of a TV...ANY day. With that being said I'd say I have a solid "B -" ability in the shop...unless its Engine work...than I leave it to the experts..with that being said. This is my 4th product from Will and all I can say is I appreciate the heart and love that goes into the products when sent to us. I've done a lot of Mod's to my other previous boats as well and make many mods to my snowmobiles over the past 20 years. Never have I seen aftermarket piece designed so well as what I typically see come out of Will's shop. It's nice to have the little extras like, using one or 2 bolt sizes to simplify installs, having not only directions but his OWN install video's. I've put after market parts on my F150 from Stage 3 Motorsports...and even that large company doesn't have the packaging, details to engineering and video links as Will does.

I ordered the Wake setter and Lateral Thrusters for my Dual Jet 2006 AR 230 at the same time.

Installing the Lateral thrusters took 15 minutes...my 75 year old Dad with Parkinson's could have installed these things it was so easy. Can't wait to see if they help with reverse and making me look like an ultra cool jet boat pilot...looking like I'm docking a Carnival Cruise Ship with Bow thrusters.

With that being said, I'm taking my anal retentive time on this project as I want it right the first time so I can get on the water up here in Wisconsin and enjoy the 5 weeks of summer we (maybe)….. get and NOT be fixing things like upstops that come loose or steering cables that hang. So what I did was...took advice of a previous thread here suggested...Tonight installed everything without Loctite to see if I would have any hang ups or problems with install. Once I had everything installed and checked steering etc. I uninstalled and took apart everything, did the epoxy and will reinstall everything tomorrow afternoon for hopeful water test on Friday/Saturday. The problem we have, it has rained so much the previous 4 weeks, most of SE Wisconsin is under water, our lakes are high and rising. My neighbors see me doing all this boat work and think I'm NOAH getting ready to whisk my family of 5 on to the boat when our house starts floating away.....what I'm getting at is many many many of the lakes I go on have a NO WAKE rule right now! How do I test a wake product without a wake? Time will tell.

A few lessons from tonight. A. To give yourself as few variables as possible when installing these start before the fins even hit the water.

#1. Give your steering a oil bath. There is a link to show you how to give the ENTIRE cable length a good lubrication....do that first...so if you have stiff steering to begin with...maybe the new vectors will get stiffer and show itself more....so lube the cables. That took me some time to get the parts and do the job...but that's done. Here's the link to do it. https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-luber.9755/

#2. Double and triple check that your jets are facing directly rear. I had to adjust one of my 2 sides. I used a piece of angle iron and followed center line...adjusted the steering cable....and than eyeballed it from behind.
View attachment 96203
View attachment 96204

During the install I did compare the old Vector XL, they are wider than the new wakes and a bit shorter than the wakes....so it will be interesting to compare how the handle differently from each other. I also noticed that the New Wake Vectors are a lot stiffer springs...maybe my old vectors springs were just broken in...it definitely takes more strength on my part to lift the new springs compared to old springs though....the new Wake Vectors are black and right behind the old vectors Xl's in this picture...its hard to tell the new ones are on the boat...but I thought this may be helpful for comparison for some of you.
View attachment 96205

So after I test fit everything (My upstops came Damn near perfect set from the factory for all 4 upstops for my 2006 model and per the video my allen wrench hit the guide right where it was supposed to be)....so I didn't make any micro adjustments at ALL to the upstops..we will see tomorrow after the epoxy sets and I reinstall if that is still the case.

So I than uninstalled everything and expoy'd the 4 hardware parts, my comments on the epoxy job;

A. I do have concerns that in month 2, year 3, or somewhere down the road this hardware that is expoyed to the jets to provide our upstop will loosen from the jet and make hell out of a trip....whether that be a ruined weekend, being in the middle of a large choppy lake or on your Bimini run. For me fortunately i'm in Wisconsin Fresh Water, The boat is trailered, and garage stored...so my expoy'd hardware will have less environmentals like salt water and a constant 4-5 month on the lift or in the slip type of boats.

B. I will be taking LIGHT sand paper tomorrow to the surface to smooth where the gates rotate.

C. Like many have said. Have EXTRA epoxy on hand. I've done plenty of fiberglass work on cars, used expoxy's for many years on many boats, I'm pretty meticulous on my mixes...and I used every single drop included.
C2. Watching the install video it states you should have a good half hour for the Epoxy, it was 70 degrees with 75% humidity in my garage tonight and I only got 15 good minutes working time...I had to work fast as things started to settle up pretty fast
C3 You definitely don't want to glob on epoxy as it can create air voids...but you want to saturate exactly how Will shows on the video the only difference. I use Q tips with the fuzzy end cut off..as its gives a smaller easier diameter application item to fine tune where you want the epoxy to go. Make sure you epoxy both the jet and the upstop hardware from behind. My epoxy job looked darn near perfect, I was Not heavy on expoxy..which takes me to the last point of the evening install part 1.
C4. It's definitely not enough epoxy that comes with the 2 packets. Fortunately I had 2 part Marine Epoxy on hand. I went over all 4 upstops and needed the extra to fill in the gaps, have extra marine epoxy on hand before install and make sure you read directions so that it has a similar curing times. Some marine epoxy's can take a week to cure. You don't want to ruin your whole install job by not doing this right....and you may not find you ruined that job till month 3, year 2, etc....do it right the first time...! Hence the reason I'm doing this in 2 days, Put all on boat, test the fitting, stearing etc. Take it all apart, do the epoxy...come in and tell your wife you have created another man project in the garage she can be proud of your alpha male status....write up your report for us to learn from each other.

Tomorrow..final install of all part with Loctite, rechecking upstops….etc. I can't say enough how much more engineering seems to go into this set of Vector's than my old ones..The old style are just fine if you want slow speed steering they work fantastic...if you don't do a ton of tubing or wakeboarding they'd be just fine. But I have 3 kids, the 20 and 16 year old love to wakeboard and want to try surfing, hence the reason for the new set....If was just tubing most of the time...I'd have kept the old vector's as those work GREAT! Until tomorrow for install part 2. Basically Re attach everything.

It's a Good Life

Marc M.
I am sure the stiffer spring is because, you want to hold the fins down at different speeds. Before they just went all the way up, and the springs were only meant to lower the springs at slow speed.
 
I snapped my anode bolts on one of my pumps. Any ideas on how to get them out instead of drilling them out?

I'd try what @Scottintexas said first (maybe put some penetrating oil on them for awhile before you try that). I'm going to guess thought that if they snapped, they aren't coming out. Afraid you may end up having to drill and retap those holes.
 
In addition to some penetrating oil, give the end of the bolt a decent tap with a punch to try to knock things loose. Bolt extractors work great if it comes to that...

 
I got it! Thanks for the suggestions. I was able to use an extension and hammer it off from the back side. Got everything epoxied time for lunch!
 
Install complete on my 2019 AR195. I ran into a couple of problems with the install. First was that the epoxy pack was busted open during shipping, so I had to use a different brand I had on hand. Second was the steering clevis bolt replacement wasn’t in my kit, so I ran and grabbed a replacement from the hardware store. It should be noted that Will did offer to ship replacements for both out for free. The last part was that I had to grind down the upstop to get the steering clevis bolt but to screw in. Beyond that it was a very easy installation. I plan on taking the boat out Sunday to see how it works in the water.
Curious to hear your results.
 
@JetBoatPilot So what is the stance on the new overhang deflector? I'm doing the install on my twin this weekend. Are we to request the new deflectors, or is that only for singles at this point?
 
I am looking to finally install these this weekend on a brand new (fin-less) 2019. about how long should I be letting this sit for everything to cure, meaning the epoxy and Loctite? if need be, I can complete this on Monday, and let it sit for an entire week without touching it. I have ordered the J-B Weld to have on hand, and I already have a huge bottle of Loctite at the ready
Why rush? Take your time..do it right , let the loctite and epoxy cure a few days..
 
Why rush? Take your time..do it right , let the loctite and epoxy cure a few days..

I agree, although both the Loctite and JB Weld cures in 24 hours according to their documentation. The paperwork for the epoxy Will provides says it's fully cured in 7 days.

FWIW, Will recommends waiting 5 hours before using the boat. The epoxy paperwork has a curing schedule to withstand 500psi after 5 hours. So we can conclude the maximum force the TVW would put on the up stops is in the neighborhood of 500psi.

The JB Weld I have has a strength of 3200 PSI, cured fully (from what I can figure out from available documentation) between 15-24 hours.

If you can wait 24+ hours, you'll be fine.
 
Finished my install. Went pretty smooth except for snapping old anode bolts. I also had a problem with one of the nutserts. I think the threads got painted had a hard time getting the screw in.
 

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So I received the new prototype from Will, installed it and took it for a test run. At the recommended gage setting for my boat, the steering was indeed lighter than the original version...it is still noticeably heavier than with just normal Thrust Vectors (which I previously had on). Will and I spoke while I was on the lake and I pulled the boat in and out and made varying adjustments to see if it made any difference, I could stiffen it up again by making the fins go down into the water, but nothing made it looser. I'm on the fence about whether the steering is going to be something that is acceptable to everyone or not...told Will my wife is going to drive it tomorrow and she will be a good gage.

As far as the wakes went, at 11mph and 20mph they looked clean, but the jet stream did not look like it did in Will's side-by-side video he posted a while back. I spoke to Will about this as well and I have agreed to get a tuber on there before making any judgements as to whether the spray will stay out of their face or not.

I have attached pics of the modified parts vs the original and pics of my wake and wash at 11mph and 20mph for your viewing pleasure. You will see that he added some metal pieces over the "fangs" and took off 1.375 of two of the tabs on the white powder coated piece.

Will has given me the DXF file of the new wash plate, so I am going to cut one out on my CNC router and use it so it can be as close to what he is proposing for a solution as possible.

I can attest to the performance of the Lateral Thruster as I installed that at the same time...it is a major improvement and highly recommended...even the boss lady was wowed by it!

After this weekend, assuming the rain doesn't keep us off the boat, I will report back as to what our observations are.
 

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So I received the new prototype from Will, installed it and took it for a test run. At the recommended gage setting for my boat, the steering was indeed lighter than the original version...it is still noticeably heavier than with just normal Thrust Vectors (which I previously had on). Will and I spoke while I was on the lake and I pulled the boat in and out and made varying adjustments to see if it made any difference, I could stiffen it up again by making the fins go down into the water, but nothing made it looser. I'm on the fence about whether the steering is going to be something that is acceptable to everyone or not...told Will my wife is going to drive it tomorrow and she will be a good gage.

As far as the wakes went, at 11mph and 20mph they looked clean, but the jet stream did not look like it did in Will's side-by-side video he posted a while back. I spoke to Will about this as well and I have agreed to get a tuber on there before making any judgements as to whether the spray will stay out of their face or not.

I have attached pics of the modified parts vs the original and pics of my wake and wash at 11mph and 20mph for your viewing pleasure. You will see that he added some metal pieces over the "fangs" and took off 1.375 of two of the tabs on the white powder coated piece.

Will has given me the DXF file of the new wash plate, so I am going to cut one out on my CNC router and use it so it can be as close to what he is proposing for a solution as possible.

I can attest to the performance of the Lateral Thruster as I installed that at the same time...it is a major improvement and highly recommended...even the boss lady was wowed by it!

After this weekend, assuming the rain doesn't keep us off the boat, I will report back as to what our observations are.
??? I must be missing something I only see one picture at 20mph and one at 11mph.
 
I'm looking at it now and I show 4 pics:

1. Shows top view of TVW parts comparison
2. Shows side view of TVW parts comparison
3. Shows 11 MPH using the JBP modified part Will sent me
4. Shows 20 MPH using the JBP modified part Will sent me
 
I'm looking at it now and I show 4 pics:

1. Shows top view of TVW parts comparison
2. Shows side view of TVW parts comparison
3. Shows 11 MPH using the JBP modified part Will sent me
4. Shows 20 MPH using the JBP modified part Will sent me
Ah, I thought you said you had before and after pictures of the wave.
 
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