Lost thrust portside on the water… (keep up your cleanout plug maint.!)

[HangOutdoors]

Can you just clean that rubber seal and put a solid lubricant on it? Can't quite make it out in the picture. Hard to believe after a few years you need to rebuild your plugs.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

They are gritty and deteriorating on the sealing surface. What makes matters worse, and me look even less intelligent, is the fact that I participated in a thread back when about replacing them. But never did. Shame on me for not finding the part number for the newest twist type plug rebuild kits.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Hard to believe after a few years you need to rebuild your plugs.

Mine are in and out A LOT. We have the luxury of being able to jump in the boat for an hour at sunset if we'd like so the plugs get installed, removed a few days a week I'd guess. Probably more cycles than many for the time frame.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

I think the correct part number for the manhole/clean out plug rebuild kits is F3F-67609-09-00

 

[swatski]

Pics suck, but…

I saw your plug post with pics, they do look ready for a rebuild kit, but I wonder it that is really the issue. Both look similar while th issue is ont he port side only.
wonder, it could just be the pic but - is it possible there is a gap in the intake tunnel:


This being a negative pressure side of the pump/tunnel, if it really is a gap left after sealant fell out it could be where the pump sucks air from the bilge, it would explain the symptoms.

I used to use 5200 to reseal, but lately went with bondo (more work to hone it smooth but the effects are pretty good, and no gaps to leak air into the tunnel:


Just thinking out loud...

 

[zipper]

I saw your plug post with pics, they do look ready for a rebuild kit, but I wonder it that is really the issue. Both look similar while th issue is ont he port side only.
wonder, it could just be the pic but - is it possible there is a gap in the intake tunnel:
View attachment 174465

This being a negative pressure side of the pump/tunnel, if it really is a gap left after sealant fell out it could be where the pump sucks air from the bilge, it would explain the symptoms.

I used to use 5200 to reseal, but lately went with bondo (more work to hone it smooth but the effects are pretty good, and no gaps to leak air into the tunnel:
View attachment 174466

Just thinking out loud...

Agreed, the tunnel is missing fairing. To me, it also looks like something was jambed in there and bent/gouged/damaged the tunnel at the 10:00 o'clock position, pulling it away and creating a gap at and above the arrow.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

First off, thank you all for your responses!

Second, this admission of stupidity comes with a poor excuse at the beginning. My FSH 210 is a deluxe. The Bimini is down when the plugs are put in and taken out… meaning the door opens about halfway due to the the undeployed bimini. I reach underneath and I secure the plugs or pull them out whichever. So I’ve been grossly negligent in looking at them. As a proceeding pictures will show, I think my problem has been found. Thank you very much FSH 210 Sport! My Silly ass hardly ever looks at them, because I install and remove them by feel. I’m betting the following pictures show my problem. They are the original ones from the 2019 purchase date ?

First off you’re not stupid, just an oversight.

The only thing you’re guilty of is enjoying your boat regularly and are getting the most out of your boat, I love hearing about people getting out so often and having a good time!

I hope the rebuild kits are are all that’s needed to get you back on the water and enjoying your boat!

@zipper pointed out something I missed in the photos initially, while it’s out of the water you may want to fill those gaps with sealant and maybe smooth out that area he highlighted.

Another thing you might consider if you have not done it already is to pull both pumps and check the level of EPNOC grease inside the cones, I think the rule of thumb is to check this area once every hundred hours. It’s not very hard to pull the pumps and put them back in… we’ll pulling them the first time might be harder since the factory sealant is on there, but after that it’s super easy.

Below are the products you will need to do the job, and some blue marine grease.

Pump sealant: 1 Just a thin skin of this product on the flanges.

Loctite 518 50ml Red Gasket Eliminator Tube: Gasket Removing Compounds: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Loctite 518 50ml Red Gasket Eliminator Tube: Gasket Removing Compounds: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Thread sealant: 1 This keeps the threads from corroding.

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Low Strength Thread Sealant, 50mL, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

EPNOC grease: x2

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

Molybdenum grease for shaft splines: 1

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease - ACC-MOLDM-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease - ACC-MOLDM-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

You will also need a wire brush for cleaning the sealant off of the threads and either a tap or bore cleaning brush to clean the sealant out of the threaded holes.

A replacement set of O rings for the cones would be a good idea as well.

If you don’t have the service manual let me know and I’ll send you pics of the relevant pages.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Once again gentlemen, thank you. However, I just checked and the gap/missing spot is actually a reflection of the screw next to it. the ”gap” is the inverse reflection of between the blades and is distorted by the curvature of the tunnel. Also, the rough area is some silicon chauk that I was messy with and never got around to replacing it with some 5200. It was supposed to be temporary back when I got the boat just to see if filling in those gaps would make any difference.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

210 FSH Sport, I will take you up on that as it seems to be good maintenance regardless.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

210 FSH Sport, I will take you up on that as it seems to be good maintenance regardless.

Right on…. I’ll post up the pages when I get back home later today.

Glad to hear that there was optical illusion in those other pics!

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Mystery solved. I was only able to get one clean out port rebuild kit. Used it on the port side and everything is back to normal! I never would have thought as I erroneously believed they were for keeping pressure in, not air out. Now I’m just concerned about the starboard side as that one is on order and the original is not much better than the port side was. However, I’m out on the lake enjoying the day. Thank you all!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Mystery solved. I was only able to get one clean out port rebuild kit. Used it on the port side and everything is back to normal! I never would have thought as I erroneously believed they were for keeping pressure in, not air out. Now I’m just concerned about the starboard side as that one is on order and the original is not much better than the port side was. However, I’m out on the lake enjoying the day. Thank you all!

Hoorayyy!

My two cents would be to just keep the starboard side will lubricated until the rebuild kit arrives.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

One would think I'd have known better. Worked in aerospace manufacturing 30 years ago, closed a aftermarket mechanic business 10 or so years ago. Black rifle (among others) armorer, and a life time of general wrenching.

Yes, keeping it lubed and will probably keep rebuilds on hand for every other season if not sooner.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

use either bees wax or dielectric grease on it avoid any solvents

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

One would think I'd have known better. Worked in aerospace manufacturing 30 years ago, closed a aftermarket mechanic business 10 or so years ago. Black rifle (among others) armorer, and a life time of general wrenching.

Yes, keeping it lubed and will probably keep rebuilds on hand for every other season if not sooner.

It will be interesting to see how keeping them lubed up will extend their service life.

Don’t beat yourself up! Everyone makes a mistake once in a while. You’ve had A LOT of trouble free hours in the water!

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

The second rebuild kit came in and installed. Boat life is good again

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The second rebuild kit came in and installed. Boat life is good again

How much were the rebuild kits?

Did you verify the part number?

While an issue that I noticed yesterday is not like yours, I did notice a bit of cav when punching off from idle, the engine that cavs is the same one who’s clean out tube is always full of water, soooooo it maybe sucking a bit of air while at low speed. It goes away once underway…

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

$70 (dealer because they had one for the port side). Yes F3F part number
i noticed more water on top of seals before the port side went.

Post rebuild, both ports right this second after zipping around the lake:

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

$70 (dealer because they had one for the port side). Yes F3F part number
i noticed more water on top of seals before the port side went.

Post rebuild, both ports right this second after zipping around the lake:

Right on! Thanks for the info!

I guess I have left mine in too much when not on the water, guess the key is to pull them when getting off the water and put them in upside down when not in use.

Glad to see you are having great success with the rebuild kits!