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My Lectrotab Install (full guide included)

It would be great to document the boat year and model with pictures showing were to connect the wire and what color the wire is. From what has been posted it sounds like there are some different color wires used and different connection positions before the ignition switch after the switch with different results. This was the only questionable item that came up during my install.
It seems mostly related to whether you have a push-button start or key-turn start:
  • If it's key-turn, your yellow wire is right there at the helm, behind the ignition keys.
  • If it's push-button start, your yellow wire is going to be wherever your ignition key is located, which on my 2020 242SE, is on the starboard wall, near/below the binnacles.
 
@HangOutdoors - I know you went with the SLC controller as well, how many seconds did you have to set its duration for?

Supposedly the short-throw 1.5" actuators should be 6 seconds, however, that seemed like it went too long. I ended up going with 5, and that seems to be about right.

Also, for those reading this in the future - I'm putting in a 100A circuit breaker in instead of the fuse, this seems to be the best bang for the buck and from a real company vs a sketchy Amazon store:
Buyers Products TruckStar 100A CB100PB Circuit Breaker
 
I ran a 60amp breaker off the house battery switch to my new fuse panel, all marine grade. I like that i can shut off the circuit to the helm
20210419_170022.jpg20210419_170121.jpg
 
Hey @Markwest - this looks promising! I think I’ll be able to squeeze it in without issue, especially after my bus bars arrive. The stock switches are good for 150A, which should be more than enough!

I will also be making a cable to go from the house battery to the C terminal, replacing the stock cable that came with the boat.
68EA5402-2757-47CE-B6E8-3E4C8630D19D.jpeg
 
I think you are going the preferred method. If you send / post a couple more pictures showing bus bar and completed setup. I will add to my install manual (assuming. You allow me to use the pics).

interested to seethe final result. Should be cleaner overall setup.
 
I think you are going the preferred method. If you send / post a couple more pictures showing bus bar and completed setup. I will add to my install manual (assuming. You allow me to use the pics).

interested to seethe final result. Should be cleaner overall setup.
Absolutely! When I get everything in the next couple days I'll photo-document as well as possible, happy to contribute them to the project!
 
Had the water test with the tabs today - WOW. I’m shocked at how little adjustment it takes to make a dramatic change in handling of the boat. I never even made it to half!
 
Had the water test with the tabs today - WOW. I’m shocked at how little adjustment it takes to make a dramatic change in handling of the boat. I never even made it to half!

Yes, I experienced the same thing. I don't think it is actually the difference in tabs per say as it is the angle at which we have to mount the actuators which creates greater vertical swing/travel. I believe if we could mount them vertically then the 1.5 inches of travel would allow us to be able to to use all of the adjustments. If this makes sense.

Still they work fantastic.
 
Yes, I experienced the same thing. I don't think it is actually the difference in tabs per say as it is the angle at which we have to mount the actuators which creates greater vertical swing/travel. I believe if we could mount them vertically then the 1.5 inches of travel would allow us to be able to to use all of the adjustments. If this makes sense.

Still they work fantastic.
Interesting thoughts. Are you thinking that the setup for our boats allows them to deploy too much?

I setup the controller for 6 seconds of movement as specified for the model, and verified the full range of motion. When I did an all-down deployment, it was clearly _too_ much and I had to back off to around halfway.
 
@Quad That is what I was thinking. Of course I haven't been able to do real world trials yet. I am anticipating being on the water again in a week or so and work with them additionally.
 
@Quad That is what I was thinking. Of course I haven't been able to do real world trials yet. I am anticipating being on the water again in a week or so and work with them additionally.
Since the SLC controller allows you to change the actuation time(/distance), I’m considering limiting the movement once I’ve got a better feel for things.
 
I’m trying to get an idea how effective these tabs really are. Back in the day, I had a V-drive with a cavitation plate. When I put down the plate that bow slapped right down. Are these Lectrotabs similar in effectiveness with only a 1.5” throw? It’s a big expense, but justifiable if it makes a drastic difference. Currently, my boat is very loose unless I’m in flat water. I do not boat in salt water.
 
Most trim tabs that i have ever had on previous boats(four winns vista cruiser and a sundowner) had similar range as these lectrotabs. You only need slight movement in any trim tab to make a change in the boats attitude.
Most people expect a trim tab to move from level with the hull to a 45 degree down to make a bow stay planted. You cant drive these boats with the tabs down all of the time unless you had a crapload of ballast on the stern. You would stuff the bow under a wave or wake.


Wait for a group buy and the price is very reasonable. You wont regret it one bit. These boats, while plane out quickly dont have and attitude control so this will give you 100 percent of the control
 
@RobbieO You need to clarify what loose means?? If you are talking about steering than tabs won't really help that, I would recommend fins.

Tabs will take the slapping, jumping and porpoising down a great deal and eliminate it in 1-3 waves. Anything bigger you won't be running fast so it won't benefit you. In anything less than 1' waves you probably won't deploy them, but could a bit.

As I have mentioned before, if you don't boat on big water or are not in heavy chop much, they may not be worth it. If you are in the ocean, bays, very choppy waters, Great Lakes, they make a world of difference.

@Neutron 's take on them as well is spot on, imho.
 
@RobbieO You need to clarify what loose means?? If you are talking about steering than tabs won't really help that, I would recommend fins.

Tabs will take the slapping, jumping and porpoising down a great deal and eliminate it in 1-3 waves. Anything bigger you won't be running fast so it won't benefit you. In anything less than 1' waves you probably won't deploy them, but could a bit.

As I have mentioned before, if you don't boat on big water or are not in heavy chop much, they may not be worth it. If you are in the ocean, bays, very choppy waters, Great Lakes, they make a world of difference.

@Neutron 's take on them as well is spot on, imho.
Thanks. I have the TV’s and I’m vonsidering getting the Cobra’s. I’m hoping someone can give me a no wake dteering comparison between the two.
 
Thanks. I have the TV’s and I’m vonsidering getting the Cobra’s. I’m hoping someone can give me a no wake dteering comparison between the two.
I won’t repeat words, but @HangOutdoors and @Neutron are spot on (I did add my thoughts above from my first run with them yesterday, for what it’s worth).
 
Had the water test with the tabs today - WOW. I’m shocked at how little adjustment it takes to make a dramatic change in handling of the boat. I never even made it to half!

Just tried mine out and yes they are very sensitive I would bet that they could be even smaller for better range of use and less sensitivity I only go into the fist two lights . They are typically used on outboard motors that get a large bow rise. The jet drives are very loose in the tail end the way the jet thrust propels the boat the slightest bit of engagement allows the nose to drop most out board drives have fins that would create more resistance to the pivot being created . It would be great to see one with about 40% less surface area to see how they perform mine are 9 1/4 x 14 1/2, As others have noted great for choppy water It has also changed the shape of the wake Im very curios to see how its changed when launching wake to wake jumps waiting for warmer water.

The stock set up had a tendency to leave choppy water at the heel side lip for a goofy rider with the tabs we should have the ability to shape the wake better. In the picture below for what ever scenario we had that day left the wake perfect for jumping clean hard lip at the take off fluffy soft water for the landing. This was my secondary reason for getting the tabs first was choppy water smoother ride second quick wake shaping ability. This combined with the ballast should be interesting and fun for this season.

Copy of IMG_5467.JPG

For the mounting location the dash boards are all different shapes I liked it just in front of the joystick knob but the 2017 x dash doesn't allow it to sit flat there so it was mounted on the grey pad and its very easy to use while underway.

20210526_195228.jpg
 
Well…got the hardware zipped up only to realize they’re not sitting at the same height. My port tab is installed how it’s supposed to be with a 1/4” rise in the trailing edge. The starboard side I messed up by installing the actuator a little low, leaving the trim tab aligned with the hull as opposed to the 1/4”. Do y’all think it’s a big deal or I should let it ride?
 
I was off by about 1/8” and it’s been fine.
 
Well…got the hardware zipped up only to realize they’re not sitting at the same height. My port tab is installed how it’s supposed to be with a 1/4” rise in the trailing edge. The starboard side I messed up by installing the actuator a little low, leaving the trim tab aligned with the hull as opposed to the 1/4”. Do y’all think it’s a big deal or I should let it ride?
Personally I think you will be fine. There is lots of adjustment available in the tabs and if you have the autoleveler it will do that by itself. If they are 1/4 high they will be out of the water flow and not cause any difference until you apply down force.
 
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