My Lectrotab Install (full guide included)

[HangOutdoors]

Why would you? What are you trying to gain?

 

[sapperfitz]

I'm just thinking if it is unused travel, why not tuck them further up out of the way when not deployed.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Why do you want them tucked up further out of the way? Is it for safety? Looks? etc. What are you trying to achieve?

Perhaps someone who has them can comment on any drawbacks this may cause?

 

[sapperfitz]

I don't really have a specific reason. Yes, I think they are less likely to be damaged if they are tucked up further, but maybe it would also keep an inexperienced user from easily over-deploying them and stuffing the bow. I just think, since we are still in the first five of years of practical application of these particular tabs, the way Swatski did it might not be the only way. I'm curious if there would be drawbacks to making the full retract position a little more retracted. The only limiting factor I can foresee right now would be contact between the tab and the actuator or the bottom of the swimdeck and the actuator; Or for those who still wish to use a wakewedge, it may push the upper actuator mounting point far enough aft that it interferes with the wedge or it may push the steep angle of the pivot between the actuator and the tab over the edge.

 

[Markwest]

Great writeup! I can't tell if it was in the Google doc because some of the pictures are truncating weird at the page breaks, but did you measure out the location for the actuator installation? I am interested in how many inches back from the farthest point on the stern you went, so that I can consider a wakewedge in the future.

I installed per the instructions and that gave me a about a half inch from actuator to the wakewedge when installed. I would think going higher with the trim tabs (say an inch) it would cause the actuator location to be pushed more rearward and would cause interference with the wedge. Won’t be around the boat for another week so can’t take the measurement right now.
Google docs, page breaks and pictures are weird. I will look into fixing it tomorrow.

 

[Troy JK]

I don't really have a specific reason. Yes, I think they are less likely to be damaged if they are tucked up further, but maybe it would also keep an inexperienced user from easily over-deploying them and stuffing the bow. I just think, since we are still in the first five of years of practical application of these particular tabs, the way Swatski did it might not be the only way. I'm curious if there would be drawbacks to making the full retract position a little more retracted. The only limiting factor I can foresee right now would be contact between the tab and the actuator or the bottom of the swimdeck and the actuator; Or for those who still wish to use a wakewedge, it may push the upper actuator mounting point far enough aft that it interferes with the wedge or it may push the steep angle of the pivot between the actuator and the tab over the edge.

If you look at the side pic where he is marking the location for the top actuator mount, you can see how sharp the angle is with just the 1/2”. The further you go, the worse the angle will get and more likely to shear the mount off.

 

[HangOutdoors]

but maybe it would also keep an inexperienced user from easily over-deploying them and stuffing the bow.

You let other people drive your boat? J/K. I am not sure whom would be driving my boat in swells or waves where they could stuff the bow. Hitting the bottom of the swim deck would be a definite concern.

 

[drewkaree]

@swatski I noticed you routed your power under the fuel hatch going diagonal to the helm. I tried to remove the 4 x 6mm hex bolts but they were not budging - any hints on how to get this hatch off without first breaking each of the bolts/drilling them out and replacing them?

Like @swatski said, some PB blaster. In addition to that, use something like these two things if you have a compressor and an air chisel (another reason to buy tools? I'm in!):

Pneumatic smoothing hammer bits You're not trying to beat them out of the hole, you're simply using them to help get that PB Blaster into those hidden areas just a little faster.

Pneumatic hammer bolt breaker This isn't used like an impact socket or impact gun, you use to to apply hammer blows around the bolt for the same reason as the smoothing hammer bits - jiggle the PB Blaster into the dark regions of the threads and other rusty areas that are impeding your removal of said bolts.

There are risks to using tools such as these, but those bolts CAN be removed. Consider too, that they may have some thread locker on them, and some heat applied to the bolts may help as well.

I know all this is too late, but maybe someone else might find it useful.

 

[Quad]

Like @swatski said, some PB blaster. In addition to that, use something like these two things if you have a compressor and an air chisel (another reason to buy tools? I'm in!):

Pneumatic smoothing hammer bits You're not trying to beat them out of the hole, you're simply using them to help get that PB Blaster into those hidden areas just a little faster.

Pneumatic hammer bolt breaker This isn't used like an impact socket or impact gun, you use to to apply hammer blows around the bolt for the same reason as the smoothing hammer bits - jiggle the PB Blaster into the dark regions of the threads and other rusty areas that are impeding your removal of said bolts.

There are risks to using tools such as these, but those bolts CAN be removed. Consider too, that they may have some thread locker on them, and some heat applied to the bolts may help as well.

I know all this is too late, but maybe someone else might find it useful.

Great points. Personally, I'm planning to take the long route just to have visibility and potential access to them in the future in the engine bay.

 

[Markwest]

I think I corrected all the picture format issues. All pictures should be visible. I also added a general usage section as people have asked questions about how they actually work when installed. If you see more stuff feel free to add comments and point them out.

 

[Quad]

I think I corrected all the picture format issues. All pictures should be visible. I also added a general usage section as people have asked questions about how they actually work when installed. If you see more stuff feel free to add comments and point them out.

Looks great!

It was sobering to see just how thick that 1/0 wire is on page 43!

Did you determine a switching option or is that whole branch of live all the time now? I am considering just installing a single switch for that branch.

Also, since you took the "long path", how much wire did you have left over all said and done? Deliberating 20' vs 25'.

Thanks again, this write up is amazing.

 

[Markwest]

Looks great!

It was sobering to see just how thick that 1/0 wire is on page 43!

Did you determine a switching option or is that whole branch of live all the time now? I am considering just installing a single switch for that branch.

Also, since you took the "long path", how much wire did you have left over all said and done? Deliberating 20' vs 25'.

Thanks again, this write up is amazing.

I used all 20ft that I ordered. There is probably an extra foot or two service loop under the helm. I shortened about 1.5ft of black from the battery compartment because the route was so direct since no fuse.

currently on vacation so haven’t had time to research the switching option but I am thinking a single cut off for that route as well. Currently it is live to the helm. Little worried about the phantom draw the actuator controller will put on the house battery but it should be minimal in sleep mode.
The 1/0 wag wire is very large. Not sure I needed all the amp capacity at the helm but I also don’t want to have to run more in the future. I think 4AWG would have been fine with my current plans and much more manageable with current stock switching.

 

[Ronnie Eubanks]

@Markwest , Great installation instructions.... crazy helpful!! I just completed my install and wiring but not sure i did wiring correct. I have a '16 242 LS and the manual controller. First issue is I may have connected to power incorrectly. On the controller I connected position 1 and 2 to the + and - straight to the battery. When I engage the actuators, they only open up about 1.5" - 2" at most. Is that the max? Also, once they are extended after about 2-3 minutes they retract completely. Fairly sure that is not normal so any suggestions on what I did wrong would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mrcleanr6]

In the beginning of this post there was mention of no 5200 fast cure in black. Just wanted to add that it is available....sort of. You can goto any napa and get 3m windshield adhesive. Its a fast cure polyurethane just like 5200. Same stuff but 3m markets it to a different industry

 

[Markwest]

@Markwest , Great installation instructions.... crazy helpful!! I just completed my install and wiring but not sure i did wiring correct. I have a '16 242 LS and the manual controller. First issue is I may have connected to power incorrectly. On the controller I connected position 1 and 2 to the + and - straight to the battery. When I engage the actuators, they only open up about 1.5" - 2" at most. Is that the max? Also, once they are extended after about 2-3 minutes they retract completely. Fairly sure that is not normal so any suggestions on what I did wrong would be greatly appreciated.

I get the same travel 2” and out of the water it returns to neutral when it detects no motion. I think you are good

 

[Troch1]

@Markwest , Great installation instructions.... crazy helpful!! I just completed my install and wiring but not sure i did wiring correct. I have a '16 242 LS and the manual controller. First issue is I may have connected to power incorrectly. On the controller I connected position 1 and 2 to the + and - straight to the battery. When I engage the actuators, they only open up about 1.5" - 2" at most. Is that the max? Also, once they are extended after about 2-3 minutes they retract completely. Fairly sure that is not normal so any suggestions on what I did wrong would be greatly appreciated.

You need to connect to a switched source of power as well as your constant 12v. You are witnessing the auto retract feature on ignition off. The 2 inch actuator stroke is the full travel of a short actuator.

 

[Ronnie Eubanks]

You need to connect to a switched source of power as well as your constant 12v. You are witnessing the auto retract feature on ignition off. The 2 inch actuator stroke is the full travel of a short actuator.

Thanks for the info, appreciate it. On my ignition switch, which wire do I tap into? Here is a pic of the back side. In the pic, the red and yellow at the very top is the toggle switch for the blower. Wiring for ignition keys (2) is right below that.

 

[Troch1]

Thanks for the info, appreciate it. On my ignition switch, which wire do I tap into? Here is a pic of the back side. In the pic, the red and yellow at the very top is the toggle switch for the blower. Wiring for ignition keys (2) is right below that. View attachment 145474

Yellow/red from one of the lower bundles should work for you

 

[vesder21]

First off, OUTSTANDING write up so thanks!

Since this will be my first install and I would like to future proof and install a fuse block to make hooking up electronics easier in the future (like a spreader light, radio, FELL MOB, maybe more speakers or amp, etc...) @Markwest My question is what's the difference in the fuse blocks and the one with a "negative" or "split" vs. the one you reference that does not have the negative?

EXAMPLE: Circ with cover vs. 12 circle with split and negative???

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B000K2MBPA

Which should I purchase as there are a lot of choices and thanks in advance!

 

[Markwest]

First off, OUTSTANDING write up so thanks!

Since this will be my first install and I would like to future proof and install a fuse block to make hooking up electronics easier in the future (like a spreader light, radio, FELL MOB, maybe more speakers or amp, etc...) @Markwest My question is what's the difference in the fuse blocks and the one with a "negative" or "split" vs. the one you reference that does not have the negative?

EXAMPLE: Circ with cover vs. 12 circle with split and negative???

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B000K2MBPA

Which should I purchase as there are a lot of choices and thanks in advance!

Circ - is the total number of circuits.

With Negative - means that the fuse block contains posts to tie your negative (return) from your battery and loads (VHF, chartplotter, trim tabs, LEDs, etc). If you do not want this option you will need a negative busbar to connect your returns and ground to. The fuseblocks without the negative integration option typically have a space reduction aspect.

Split - appears to allow you to connect to multiple battery runs (house1 + start/house 2). I cannot talk to the 24hr circuit aspect, seems it auto shuts off after 24hrs - someone with more experience help me out.

Cover - obviously covers the circuits/fuses and the battery connections to provide additional protection from shorts.

None of the options above are necessarily better than one another, they just allow installation flexibility.

The one I used in my install did have the negatives. I wanted one convienent location for my loads to connect to connect and fuse through. I thought about going to 12 circuits but could not see the need to go that big.