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New boat?s and crank / no start issue

Jgorm

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I got the boat out to the river for the first time. Saturday it worked great and the jet was a huge advantage with the shallow water! Sunday I couldn't start the port engine at the launch ramp. It would sputter, then die. Punching it had no effect. I did the connection jiggle test on most connectors, cycled the lanyard and clean out switches, and pulled the air filter. Then it started and ran great. I out the air filter back in and it wouldn't start. I pulled it back out and it ran great so i left it out for the day. The air filter looks fine. I've never heard of an air filter causing startup issues (except on picky maf based cars). The port engine was running about 10200 rpms with the starboard with the filter at 10100. As far as crank, no start issues go, I hit the lottery! I thought the compression might be bad.

Aside from that, I found some things I need to buy or fix.

1. The black paint needs buffing badly. Is it safe to use standard auto compound / rotary buffer?

2. The strap above the ladder is broken. Anybody have a link to a replacement?

3. The ski locker sags a bit when you step on it in the corner. The fiberglass above the plastic standoff piece is deemed in. Patch with resin, out add some washers below the standoff.

4. Is there a link to the owner's manual or a fsm? I'd be willing to pay fit the fsm, unless someone can link a pdf.

5. Until I find the above, does anyone have part numbers for oem spark plugs, oil filler, and the oil weight (synthetic)

6. Anybody have a link for the water cooling shutoff mod for running on one engine?

7. I have lots of cup holder holes, but only 2 cup holders. Is it common fit these to fly out?

8.Is there a diagram for the piss holes on the standard aft section? One looks like the bilge, then there are two sets of two ports maybe only 1/4".

9. The trailer brakes are probably not functioning. I had a very large clunk on take off. I can push the tongue in all the way by hand.
 

2nazt

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Last edited:

Wayloncle

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For the ladder strap, I and several others are using these ball bungees, they work great.
IMG_1155.PNG
 

Jgorm

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Thanks guys. It looks like I super too soon. I realised I didn't blow out the water as recommended, so I did it yesterday. The engine struggled to start, but eventually did. I was under the cover and noticed a faint check engine light. I've ordered the yds from eBay. I'm also going to replace the plugs, air filters, and oil. Hopefully it's just an idle air controller, map or tps sensor.

The strap I'm taking about is the handle above the step, not the step strap, but thanks for the idea.
 

swatski

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3. The ski locker sags a bit when you step on it in the corner. The fiberglass above the plastic standoff piece is deemed in. Patch with resin, out add some washers below the standoff.
May need to prepare yourself to deal with a potentially larger issue here. There is a lot of wood in those Yammies.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/2004-2006-230-floor-rot-repair.11861/#post-203691

Good news is, it is not immediately catastrophic, in a way that a rotten transom could be in an outboard.

--
 

Bruce

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I got the boat out to the river for the first time. Saturday it worked great and the jet was a huge advantage with the shallow water! Sunday I couldn't start the port engine at the launch ramp. It would sputter, then die. Punching it had no effect. I did the connection jiggle test on most connectors, cycled the lanyard and clean out switches, and pulled the air filter. Then it started and ran great. I out the air filter back in and it wouldn't start. I pulled it back out and it ran great so i left it out for the day. The air filter looks fine. I've never heard of an air filter causing startup issues (except on picky maf based cars). The port engine was running about 10200 rpms with the starboard with the filter at 10100. As far as crank, no start issues go, I hit the lottery! I thought the compression might be bad.

Aside from that, I found some things I need to buy or fix.

1. The black paint needs buffing badly. Is it safe to use standard auto compound / rotary buffer?
Have a look at this thread https://jetboaters.net/threads/i-ruined-my-jet-ski-and-boat-in-1-hr.3885/
There are many other with suggestions.

2. The strap above the ladder is broken. Anybody have a link to a replacement?
I believe this may be the part http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/f1c-u270b-00-00/grip-assy

If not you should be able to find it at http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50039e91f870021f60a1149f/hull-deck-fittings

This is all of the parts diagrams http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/50039e89f870021f60a11481/2004-sx230-srt1000ac-parts

3. The ski locker sags a bit when you step on it in the corner. The fiberglass above the plastic standoff piece is deemed in. Patch with resin, out add some washers below the standoff.
That hatch is $487 so hopefully you can fix it. It likely has a wood core.
http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/f1c-u5111-00-00/hatch-floor

4. Is there a link to the owner's manual or a fsm? I'd be willing to pay fit the fsm, unless someone can link a pdf.
This is the owners manual http://www.yamaha-motor.com/boat/service/viewmanual.aspx?ls=boat&yr=2004&lid=4&mid=947

5. Until I find the above, does anyone have part numbers for oem spark plugs, oil filler, and the oil weight (synthetic)
The spark plugs should be documented on a plaque near the engine. It is all in the owners manual.

6. Anybody have a link for the water cooling shutoff mod for running on one engine?
This thread is helpful https://jetboaters.net/threads/adding-tow-valves-2004-sx230-questions.2314/

7. I have lots of cup holder holes, but only 2 cup holders. Is it common fit these to fly out?
Yes, you can get stainless replacements for less than $5 each on eBay. For example http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Stainless-Steel-Beverage-Cup-Drink-Holder-Marine-Boat-Truck-Camper-RV-Set-4pc-/272446346630

You can caulk the new ones into place to reduce the chances of losing them.

8.Is there a diagram for the piss holes on the standard aft section? One looks like the bilge, then there are two sets of two ports maybe only 1/4".
That is normal. The small holes are an indicator of water flow through the engines cooling system.

9. The trailer brakes are probably not functioning. I had a very large clunk on take off. I can push the tongue in all the way by hand.
Have you checked to lines to see if they are broken anywhere. If not you may need to add brake fluid to the reservoir.
 

Julian

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2nazt

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With the clunk on trailer as mentioned check for a broken line, or lines in general. Worst case you may need to run new lines and get a new master cylinder and items for the trailer.
 

Jgorm

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Thanks everyone! This helps a lot. I read the manual and downloaded the service manual. I probably won't dig into it until next year. The projected delivery from china for my YDS is Jan2. With christmas and a 4 day RV trip to death valley I'm pretty booked up.
 

Jgorm

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I had some time and staying fixing all the little stuff like adjusting the latches, gluing the carpet back on the walls, tightening screws, cleaning, etc. When I went to tighten the ignition switch from spinning (the port engine with the problem), I noticed that the wires were all spun up and the yellow/red stripe is broken. The key was all bent up too. Looking online the switch assembly seems to be close to $200! Someone posted a link to a narva Maine switch for $30. Hopefully this is the root cause! Does anybody have the ignition pinout?
 

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swatski

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@Jgorm Don't know if it's going to be helpful, here is a 2012 190 diagram:

BTW - this red/yellow wire shown in the diagram from the switch does not connect through to any wiring in the wire harness from the boat. So, if yours is the same, even if you (accidentally) pull it from the connector (at the bottom) - nothing happens. I discovered that messing with PerfectPass install.
 

Jgorm

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Hmm, this makes even less sense now. I assumed the yellow/red was the feed to acc on, from the red 12v+ wire. I'm still unsure any why the black and white wires connect in the off position. Is there any type of circuit / relay inside the key switch? I'll have to figure out how the clean out switch disables the start, and how the lanyard tryna off the engine.
 

Scottintexas

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this is from a 2005 MR-1 HO

upload_2016-12-19_10-45-44.png
 

Jgorm

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It appears that it may not be the ignition. I went to troubleshoot, planning to swap ignition switches side to side, but both work fine. Jiggling the wires had no effect, started up every time. Cramming the yellow/red write into the hole did nothing, either during starting, or while running.

The port side has a super faint glow on the check engine that glows for about 20 seconds after you turn it off, and while the engine is on. It flashes super bright during crank. The starboard side does the same thing, but on the right warning light, maybe oil pressure. Exact same thing where it flashes bright, but glows very dim while running, and after key off. There is no way you could see it in daylight, I'm under the cover at dusk.
 

2nazt

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My 08 would stay slightly illuminated also. Only noticeable at night too
 

Gym

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@Jgorm you may have the same issue I had two summers ago...water in a connector behind the panel in the aft starboard storage compartment. That would be the same location you would connect your YDS cable. One of the pins in my connector was also rusted open.
 
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