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Port engine won't start [Solved and Fixed]

The rear cleanout hatch switches can behave two ways depending on how far down they are pressed. I think this can be a bit tricky and requires a second person to do the testing.
With the hatch open, they prevent the engines from turning over. In my opinion that should be the only functionality, anything other than full pressed down should yield this result.
With the hatch partially closed the engines will turn over but not get any spark. This behavior is confusing to me. I don't know why it is allowed.
Serves 2 distinct purposes.
When the hatch is opened, the switches kill the engines if they are running and prevents cranking if not running. Both functions are needed to prevent loss of body parts.
 
Hi guys I just broke one of my hatch switches does anyone have a recommendation where to buy a new one I’m also after new ignition barrels as they are sticking on cheers
 
Hi guys I just broke one of my hatch switches does anyone have a recommendation where to buy a new one I’m also after new ignition barrels as they are sticking on cheers



I don't know the exact answer to your questions, I know a lot of yamaha parts are hard to find right now,
I would think any generic similar hatch switch would work,

Is the ignition switch is sticking in the "run" or the "start" position?

I would think I would pull the switch from the dash and give it a good cleaning with some oil to see if that helps it, I had an ignition switch problem and know the yamaha replacements are very expensive, like $200.,

we had a thread about replacing them with a generic key switch or even moving to a push button start
 
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Thank you so much mate while I have u do u know any common problems that cause over heating sitting on water hose and no water squirt out the side
 
Probably not enough water pressure from the hose
Does it overheat on the water?

You could clamp off the inbound hose (to rear of Y fitting) so hose water doesn't back flow out of the jet intake
 
Here's how much water back flows out the inlet at the jet

 
Thank you so much mate while I have u do u know any common problems that cause over heating sitting on water hose and no water squirt out the side

Like Scott said above. Low water pressure on the hose, will not necessarily push water out the pilot (pisser) ports. I did have a problem with mud dobber wasps that plugged the ports with mud. Sticking weed wacker string in from the outside cleared them. They are indicators that water is running thru the cooling system. You may check your thermostats to make sure they open, especially if you run in salt water. Here is a video that may help you understand the cooling system.
 
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looks like the newer engines are much simpler in their design, at least as far as cooling water goes.
 
Probably not enough water pressure from the hose
Does it overheat on the water?

You could clamp off the inbound hose (to rear of Y fitting) so hose water doesn't back flow out of the jet intake
The starbord motor dies over heat on hose if u run it to long
 
Like Scott said above. Low water pressure on the hose, will not necessarily push water out the pilot (pisser) ports. I did have a problem with mud dobber wasps that plugged the ports with mud. Sticking weed wacker string in from the outside cleared them. They are indicators that water is running thru the cooling system. You may check your thermostats to make sure they open, especially if you run in salt water. Here is a video that may help you understand the cooling system.
Yeah I run it in salt water I removed both the thermostats get a bit of steam out the starbord pee hose if I run it to long
 
Yeah I run it in salt water I removed both the thermostats get a bit of steam out the starbord pee hose if I run it to long

Which Pilot outlet do you get steam out of, the exhaust one or the oil cooler one?
Have you been flushing religiously with a salt away product after each use?
 
Which Pilot outlet do you get steam out of, the exhaust one or the oil cooler one?
Have you been flushing religiously with a salt away product after each use?
Will have to take more notice of which port but I use salty captain flush but before I only used water I’ve removed the exhaust manifold to check the ports weren’t blocked I get perfect water stream on the lake and doesn’t over heat that motor also has a crack in the side of the block possibly due to salt build up before I purchased it I have put Jb weld on it
 
I don't know where to start. I will see if I can hijack this thread.
Hello All

I have a 2004 sx230 that has been sitting for a few years. This is what I know from yds

Port motor
Cranks. No start
TPC 2.3
Fuel pump comes on with software
Lanyard stays on. No change of state
Clean out switches been bypassed

Starboard
Cranks no start
TPS 76.3
Fuel pump does not come on will swap and test with port pump
Lanyard switch Does toggle fine
Clean out switches been bypassed

New gas
New plugs and oil every year

Thoughts?
Motors ran fine. The boat has been reliable since I owned from 2006. Upholstery was redone and both steering and throttle cables replaced.

Do I troubleshoot each engine separately. Having the lanyard switch not working would explain the no start. I believe there are 4 wires. 2 red and 2 white. I can reverse them to troubleshoot for a bad switch

Ecu fuses are good.
Swapping the fuel pumps around would verify functionality.

Batteries are 1 year old. Reading 12.6 volts which is needed for computer logics.

Any ideas or questions?

Chuck
 
do you have spark ? did you change the fuel not just add fuel to the old fuel? what is the compression?
 
I don't know where to start. I will see if I can hijack this thread.
Hello All

I have a 2004 sx230 that has been sitting for a few years. This is what I know from yds

Port motor
Cranks. No start
TPC 2.3
Fuel pump comes on with software
Lanyard stays on. No change of state
Clean out switches been bypassed

Starboard
Cranks no start
TPS 76.3
Fuel pump does not come on will swap and test with port pump
Lanyard switch Does toggle fine
Clean out switches been bypassed

New gas
New plugs and oil every year

Thoughts?
Motors ran fine. The boat has been reliable since I owned from 2006. Upholstery was redone and both steering and throttle cables replaced.

Do I troubleshoot each engine separately. Having the lanyard switch not working would explain the no start. I believe there are 4 wires. 2 red and 2 white. I can reverse them to troubleshoot for a bad switch

Ecu fuses are good.
Swapping the fuel pumps around would verify functionality.

Batteries are 1 year old. Reading 12.6 volts which is needed for computer logics.

Any ideas or questions?

Chuck
You have one engine with the lanyard not responding and one engine with a high tps reading.
Tps reading high could be making that computer think the throttle is open which will not let it start.
The other with the lanyard not cycling could be an issue.
But as Jeff stated check if its not getting fuel or spark. And check compression
 
You have one engine with the lanyard not responding and one engine with a high tps reading.
Tps reading high could be making that computer think the throttle is open which will not let it start.
The other with the lanyard not cycling could be an issue.
But as Jeff stated check if its not getting fuel or spark. And check compression
 
Yes. All engine need fuel spark and compression. The engines has 189 hours on them. I doubt both engines would not start due to compression. The fuel pump works and the other didn't when enabled by yds software. I will swap positions to verify the fuel pumps work.
So back to spark.
If a cleanout switch is let say bad. I assume it will only affect the one engine from cranking which I have. I assume that if the lanyard is removed, both engines would cut out. The 4 wires the switch will be cut and swapped and then recheck to see if it changes state. I am guessing I may have multiple issues. I will try this in the next day or so. I need to keep this simple.

Ty
 
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