Push Button Start Mod - It works! With video and full instructions

[Trevor Shipman]

If the throttles are not in neutral the engines won't start with the keys or the button. Just don't be the guy who forgets that when the boat won't start. Also the lanyard will disable starting as well. Both options allow everything else to operate normally.

Hmmm not a bad thought... I could kick the throttles forward when we are parked.

And I have NEVER been that guy to check the battery, rip apart the engine, think my boat is done forever, then come to to realize I was not in neutral after an hour. Nope not me. Haha

 

[Mainah]

I now have plug and play kits for sale for a limited time.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/plug-and-play-push-button-start-stop-kits.16788/#post-289534

 

[Huntersales]

Are you still planning to release a updated parts list for diy'ers. I really like the look of your manufactured kit but since I missed out I would love to try one for myself ! Great work!

 

[Mainah]

Are you still planning to release a updated parts list for diy'ers. I really like the look of your manufactured kit but since I missed out I would love to try one for myself ! Great work!

I do plan to post an updated parts list and instructions after I have fulfilled the initial orders.

 

[Beachbummer]

Hmmm not a bad thought... I could kick the throttles forward when we are parked.

And I have NEVER been that guy to check the battery, rip apart the engine, think my boat is done forever, then come to to realize I was not in neutral after an hour. Nope not me. Haha

Prior owner confided that boat was without use for two months troubleshooting with mechanics and dealer, because of no start condition. He lastly physically checked fuel tank condition before agreeing to replace fuel pumps. Turns out tank was empty and bone dry, fuel gauge was stuck on 3/4. Refuel, and BAM, started right up... Stuff happens.

 

[Mainah]

I mentioned earlier that I would update this thread with an updated parts list. The different contollers that I am using for the kits have had a 20% manufacturing defect rate. One of these made it through my testing and into someone elses hands causing them to chase down a blown fuse. I have updated my test procedure so that won’t happen again. I am also using different wires to make the connections and have found that there are at least 4 different varations of these connections amoung 2013 to 2017 twin engine boats.

I am not going to post up the new controller or instructions because I can’t support helping with the defect rate and all of the different ways to connect it. The original method works but I do recommend using solid state or board mounted isolated relays.

Joe is going to continue to make the kits for at least the next couple of years based on his availability. We plan on covering all fuel injected twin engine yamahas. As kits are ready to ship I will post a classified ads here.

 

[Mainah]

I have been remiss in providing an update. First off to those on my wait list I want to apologize for you waiting so long. I do believe I clued everyone that contacted me that it was going to be a while if ever but if I missed someone I do apologize. I am going to provide an explanation but that still does not express how sorry I am. For those looking for DIY instructions skip down as that is below.


When I started selling these kits it was to provide my teenage son who has medical challenges a way of making money, learning something, and spending time with me. I never made a single penny from this. In fact I lost money on it as I paid my son all net profits and never included all of the costs. I have some supplies left yet he is unable to continue to do this. The profit margin is small and just not worth my personal time to do. I have more supplies for some parts than others but basically enough to make three kits for 2015-2017 ar 240 or 242 ls. I am going to get those built and then start down the list I already have. if for some reason I end up with any to sell because someone is no longer interested I will post those up but please do reach out prior if you have not already. For those just reading on I never accepted any funds for a unit until it was ready to ship. Once I have exhausted my full kit supplies I may offer the other partial kit parts for sale but I am discontinuing this.

I also had many issues with wiring diagrams, controllers with poor QC sent to me, wrong controllers sent to me, but most of all end users plugging in the t harness plugs upside down even with a giant bold warning page telling them to read all directions and very clear directions with that as a warning. these plugs are even indexed to prevent that yet still many folks found a way to force them upside down.

Ok now for the DIY types. There are just too many different wiring schemes between models to make all the specific diagrams and instructions. The principle is the same for all models though. For the start side NEUTP1 is normally open port side start and closing it with PECMPWR for enough duration will start the port engine. NEUTS1 and SECMPWR for the starboard engine. For stop IGN STOP-P is normally open and closing it with PECMGND momentarily will stop the port engine. IGN STOP-S and SECMGND for starboard engine. It is important to keep each of the 4 actions independent and isolated. I have been using PTR4-IND (the IND is super important as other models are sold but on the PTR4-IND will work) 4 relay controllers. Building the plug and play T harness is time consuming and a bit frustrating at times. Honestly the harness is not required and this can be done at the switch adapting the previous diagram to this controller and swiping in but the T-harness is cleaner and was the only way I would ship these to others to install. The duetsch connectors are a bit pricey. Many have posted links for the push buttons but basically any momentary normally push button suitable for a boat will work. Everything can be found on Amazon although I am not sure that I have the current links. The basics is to wire each button to deliver 12v positive to two triggers inputs on the controller. I have the timing I was setting in the controllers below.

A Quick tip is that push button stop is more useful than push button start and that can be push button start alone can be accomplished with far less wiring and with or without a controller. Isolating the port from starboard circuit is still needed

Hopefully those who tackle this DIY will supply more model specific information and keep this going.

These are the settings I used but crank and stop times but may be modified if needed

• 1. The are the setting I used but crank and stop times but may be modified if needed
  • a. A crank time that is too short will cause an error message to pop up Connext
  • This message is not indication that any damage has been done but the crank time should be longer
• 2. The preset times are
  • a. 2.5 seconds for first engine (RL1)
  • b. 2.7 Seconds wait for the second engine then 2.5 second crank (RL2)
  • c. 0.5 Second stop signal for first engine (RL3)
  • d. 0.5 Second stop signal for second engine (RL4)
    • i. note the stop signals are simultaneous
• 3. To enter programming mode press either arrow key on the controller and move the cursor with the arrow key to the spot that needs to be changed
• 4. To change values use the + and – keys
• 5. To exit programming arrow until back at main screen
  
  Main Screen Diagram
  
  
  
  1:0025s 2:0025s
  
  3:0002s 4:0002s
  
  
  
  Programming Mode Diagrams
  
  
  
  RL1 ON 0025 ->
  
  OFF 0000s LP0000
  
  
  
  RL2 OFF 0027 ->
  
  ON 0025s LP0001
  
  
  
  RL3 ON 0005 ->
  
  OFF 0000s LP0000
  
  
  
  RL4 ON 0005 ->
  
  OFF 0000s LP0000
  
  
• • 1. To prevent unwanted operation of the buttons there are a few options
    • a. Turn off Keys
    • b. Remove Safety Lanyard
    • c. Take Throttles out of neutral positions
  • 2. All key functions will continue to function as they did without the push button start
  • 3. Keys must be in on position for the push button start to work
• If the system is causing unwanted start or stop immediately disconnect controller T harness and reconnect factory harness together

 

[Trevor Shipman]

@Mainah you’re the MVP of this site and your contributions are amazing. I think I speak for all of us when I say thank you sharing your innovations!

 

[MidnightRider]

@Mainah you’re the MVP of this site and your contributions are amazing. I think I speak for all of us when I say thank you sharing your innovations!

Agreed. To this specific product, its one of the best mods on my boat and the only mod that got the attention/love of the whole family. I knew at the price you were offering it that it was more of a contribution to this community and opportunity for your son rather than a money maker. Much appreciation for your contribution in this product specifically, and also the many instances of help trouble shooting member issues here on the forum.

 

[WildCatFan54]

Well said @ Trevor Shipman & @ MidnightRider ! Thank You very much Chris for the absolute best mod on my boat and your support and patience in working with me to make it right, Much appreciated .

 

[Bluewater272]

• a. A crank time that is too short will cause an error message to pop up Connext
• This message is not indication that any damage has been done but the crank time should be longer

If I may ask, is the error you see for this a 'Comm Error'? I get this occasionally with your vintage instructions, but the boat always starts fine so I ignore it. Maybe I'll bump the crank timing a smidge just to get rid of it, if thats the case.

 

[Dixie Highway]

@Mainah I can appreciate your situation, as much as I’d love to see this kit on my boat I also understand the nature of the project. I hope you don’t mind but sending you a PM now. Thanks again for all your efforts and well wishes for you and your family !

 

[tabbibus]

Man, what an amazing thing you did for your son @Mainah

Very inspiring. Wish you and your family many blessings, even in trying times.

 

[Mainah]

I appreciate all the positive comments. Plenty of great folks here. Raising kids is tough. I doubt there is any parent with teenagers or who is an empty nester that does not wish they had more time with their kids when they were younger. I am guilty of working too much when mine were still blessed with that childhood innocence. Just seeing that no care in the world happiness in young kids still makes me smile everytime. Just trying to make the most of every moment now and trying to have a positive impact on the type of adults they will become. Hopefully happy and healthy ones.


As for the quick comm error that disappears that is similar to when you start your car and things light up on the dash. It can happen with the keys too. I am not sure if it is something with the ecm and the quick release of the relay vs a key switch but sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn’t. I have seen it less with increasing the timing and it certainly happens more often when voltage is low and on the second engine to start. Since the comm relies on 12v on these boats and there is big load when starting my guess is that no way to completely eliminate. Not something that will cause any long term issues though and it disappears in a split second when it does happen.

If you do increase the crank time don’t forget to increase the wait time.

 

[leadwolf]

Thanks for everything Mainah. Any chance you can share the electrical diagram for the boat? I have a 15 AR240 which I believe has the same wiring as yours.

 

[14SX190]

Bumping old thread and hope theres more info out there since 06/26

I really hate the key and would like to convert to push start. Is application the same for single engine?
Really appreciated info

 

[tdonoughue]

I'm looking into this as well. Seems the programmable delay relay is not available any longer, but there are some others... Which I think will work... Er... Unless someone has an update?

I may need to look closer in the morning.

To clarify, my looking at this has NOTHING to do with my breaking one of my ignition switches. Nothing.

 

[Nick Hughes]

I'm looking into this as well. Seems the programmable delay relay is not available any longer, but there are some others... Which I think will work... Er... Unless someone has an update?

I may need to look closer in the morning.

To clarify, my looking at this has NOTHING to do with my breaking one of my ignition switches. Nothing.

In the very first post of this thread, there is a parts list for this mod. I have all those parts, never used. I bought them all in the off-season with a plan to do, but then @Mainah's son did the plug and play kit, so I got in on that. Works awesome (once the engines are warm). Anyways, I can't remember the total cost, maybe $100. Make an offer if anyone is interested.

 

[tdonoughue]

I'll drop you a PM!

 

[waterboyh2o]

Don’t be intimidated if you want to try this. The attached video, instructions, parts list, and wiring diagram should answer most questions and are written in a way that most everyone can follow. That said I will attempt to answer any questions in a timely manner but don’t blame me if your engine won’t start or stop after attempting this mod. The parts only cost me about $50 so it is inexpensive. Ok now on to the video of this mod in action and attachments, after that read the next post for more in depth information.

Video:

Photo of buttonsView attachment 37388

Instructions, Part List, and Wiring Diagram are attached.

#coolmod <added by admin>

Very clean look! You already have two buttons installed. Would it not be possible to have one button for port and one for stbd and just press the button again to kill the ignition just like as car start/stop button? I would like to do that and have individual control as I will be running a flyboard off of the port engine and need stbd engine off while doing so.