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Quick Trailer Jack Question

BigAbe75

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Julian

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Anyone know if this will work with or Shoreland’r trailers? I have a 2016 242. Thanks everyone.

Fulton XPD15L0101 Swivel Trailer Tongue Jack, Dual Wheel - 1500 Lbs. Capacity, Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KOTXSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SQS7PZDE98GAWW10MX54View attachment 165585
When my stock one died on my last trailer, I replaced with one of these:

Can buy 3 of them for one Fulton. Used it for 2-3 years before I bought the new boat- no issues. These jacks all are the same worm drive inside.
 

biffdotorg

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When considering a replacement jack, look at if you want to replace the one that may have a welded mount on your trailer. The jack shown above is a universal jack that will bolt up to any trailer. So its all about how clean you want the install and if you can get the stock jack off.

I just ordered a 1500lb fulton for my Snowmobile trailer that bolts on. And wouldn't you know, Amazon even offers them up "used" which usually means someone ordered the wrong one, and returned it. I don't care if I have good packaging on a jack. And honestly, we swap these and couplers out on sled trailers often, as the winter road salt just eats them up. My handle literally fell off this weekend moving the sled trailer around. Ahh rust!
 
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CarolinaJet

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I actually just installed that exact jack. No issues and a nice improvement over stock. I removed my old one.
does it lift higher than the stock one? the stock jack can barely get the trailer past level, so on an uneven surface I sometimes can’t clear my trailer ball when the jack is topped out
 

biffdotorg

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does it lift higher than the stock one? the stock jack can barely get the trailer past level, so on an uneven surface I sometimes can’t clear my trailer ball when the jack is topped out
Do you have a photo of your trailer and stock jack? that makes no sense at all. From the factory, these trailers are paired to the boat and should actually give you enough lift to drain a bit of water.

Something tells me there is either something wrong with the jack, or it's not stock
 

CarolinaJet

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Do you have a photo of your trailer and stock jack? that makes no sense at all. From the factory, these trailers are paired to the boat and should actually give you enough lift to drain a bit of water.

Something tells me there is either something wrong with the jack, or it's not stock
Yes to drain I put the jack wheel very carefully on a block so I can get more reach. It’s definitely stock, I got the boat new. I’ll get a picture and take some measurements but will be a few days! Appreciate the consult, this has been bugging me and I would gladly buy a new one if it would fix the problem once and for all.
 

LoWeLL216

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The new jack extends 12" (I think the same as OEM, but not sure). I also use a block to get better angle, but wouldn't need to.
 

HawaiiBreeze

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I just changed out my 3rd jack in 4 years. If you have the shorelandr trailer for a 19' which has the winch bracket and jack combined you should be hesitant about the jack in the Amazon photo. It does not appear to have the proper round section necessary to mate it to the winch bracket. The Universal Jack costs about $40 and it does come with the round cut out that you need to fit into the winch bracket. The round insert is what allows the swing up/down. You may end up using a few parts from the OEM jack (the round plate and the two bolts & nuts). FYI I went through the dual wheeled jack (westmarine), it was the 2nd to rust out. Was a great jack and way easier to move about but rusted out just the same even with the grease fitting. Below is a photo disassembling #3 a cheap one.


Westmarine Dual Wheel Jack.jpg

Trailer OEM Pieces.jpg
 
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CarolinaJet

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Ok sorry it took me a bit to get this together, but here is all the info.

The stock jack on my AR210’s trailer will raise the bottom of the coupler to a max of 24.5” off the ground. It’s enough to drain but a few more inches makes a big difference, hence I use a block. The stock jack’s range is about 9.75” (measured at the jack itself, not the coupler). With my current setup, there is very little clearance, this is topped out:
1644976198161.jpeg
My truck settles about 2” as the weight is applied so when fully loaded the bottom of the coupler sits 20.5” off the ground.
1644976263049.jpeg

My setup uses a 3/4” rise. In putting this together, it dawned on me that new and slightly oversized tires on my truck has raised the ball height and made the clearance that much tighter. I will switch to a zero or a drop hitch to make my life easier, assuming it stays close to level and still tows well.

I would still be excited about a jack that could lift higher, like 26-27” for easier draining. If anyone has a good way to determine that I would appreciate it.
 

biffdotorg

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Does your truck sag that bad that you actually have to use a lift tongue? I know most of us up here 4x4 half tons are doing 2-4" drop. Of course, you could always flip your tongue over and gain some inches.

Does your boat trailer tow level in this configuration? If I did that with mine, I would be way too high towing and would have uneven amount of pressure on the rear axle of my trailer. If you are not level once you set that hitch on the ball, flip your tongue and try again. You may gain enough room to get by just fine.

Good luck,

Quick Edit, just saw your level on the hitch. Is it a good representation of the entire trailer? I assume so.
 

BigAbe75

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@biffdotorg I didn’t go back and reread what we’re talking about (lol), but I do know that my 4x4 F250 and my Yukon XL (Denali with air suspension) both require a slight rise on the ball for the trailer to run level.

I love the Ark jack because it has adjustable height. You just crank it in, then you can pull the pin and slide the whole jack up or down then crank the wheel out. Works great!
 
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