replacing bunks ... question

[yam240sx]

Hi guys about to replace the bunks on my 240 shorelander trailer ... so regular pressure treated 2x6s will do the job right ? also regarding carpeting is there a best quality thick type ? and dont put 2 layers correct ? ... Thanks

 

[RiverRat]

I replaced mine last year, pressure treated 2x6’s and marine/outdoor carpet from my local Menards.

 

[yam240sx]

nice Job .. what size lag bolts ?

 

[RiverRat]

nice Job .. what size lag bolts ?

I just reused the lags that were on there already. Think they might have been 1 inch?

 

[Tjw961]

Yes 2x6 pressure treated boards. I think I used either 1 in or 1 1/4 in SS lag bolts when I did mine as mine were very rusted- got mine off of Ebay. Carpet choices galore out there but I bought CE Smith 11" x 12' off Amazon for I think around $28 per role delivered. I also used SS staples on mine as the bunks I was replacing had rusted staples which was only a few dollars more. I already owned an electric staple gun which made it go quick and easy. Swapping the bunks with 12v or 18v electric drill with socket attached for lag bolts in parking lot after you launch the boat only took me 15-20 by myself. I used a couple kreg clamps I use for woodworking to hold the ready to go new bunks that I had built at home already to hold in place by placing the clamp at each intersection on one side and then drill in lag bolts on the other hole on the opposite side and went from back of the trailer forward on each board. Mine on 242 were 5' in length on outer rear boards and 10' in length for main two center boards. Was very straight forward and simple.

 

[Ronnie]

I did what @Tjw961 did on my boat trailer a few years ago and recently added 5200 to the lag screws.

for my pwc trailer I bout 7’ bunk boards of Amazon and added bunk slides.
I will add slides to the boats trailer soon.

 

[Tjw961]

@ronnieive thought about some slides a couple of times to add on top of my bunk rails. Do they work well for you? Any scratches occuring?

 

[Ronnie]

@ronnieive thought about some slides a couple of times to add on top of my bunk rails. Do they work well for you? Any scratches occuring?

Honestly, I can’t tell if they do anything where the Waverunners are concerned because I never really had problems loading or unloading waverunners. I have had to replace the bunks and carpet several times already. Since I was refurbishing the trailer for the new waverunners anyway I installed the slides with the goal of extending the life of the carpet.

they have not scratched the hulls of the waverunners but I will likely put some 4200 or 5200 over the heads of the screws so threat they cant back out and eventually scratch the hulls.

I’m hoping they help when loading and unloading the boat in conjunction with the the ramp n clamp so will be installing them on my boat trailer the next time I take the boat out.

By the way, they come in a 10 pack with each piece being 15” long and 3” wide (so 150” total). My MFI boat trailer has the same number and size bunks as new shorelander trailers and will require 24 slides. I happened to have 4 left from the pack I bought for my boats battery tray so I only needed 2 packs for the boat trailer. Each slide requires 6 SS screws which are included. I ended up buying 5 packs for both trailers and my battery tray for under $250 between $40 and $50 per pack. For comparison the last time I checked on ultimate (plastic) bunk boards for the boat trailer, many years ago, they cost $300 for the set and people were complaining that they scratched hulls or deteriorated prematurely (found plastic dust / transfer on their hulls).

 

[Babin Farms]

For those looking to install slides on their bunks there's the option of making your own out of the same material most of the ones you can buy. You just need a circular or table saw, countersink bits and a router.
Cut the sheet into desired width, router edges with quarter round bit for smoothness, drill holes along the slide and install with stainless hardware

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/plastic-utility-panels/3-8-x-4-x-8-hdpe-panel/blkhdpe48x96x330/p-1561703293077-c-14048.htm?tid=4897418061425003664&ipos=5

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits-accessories/bosch-reg-countersink-drill-bit-set-4-piece/sp515/p-1444452357201-c-10079.htm?tid=3521306374270773027&ipos=2

 

[Julian]

If adding bunk slides, just be aware that some people have experience hull "sanding" by using bunk slides material. The theory is that when you have two smooth surfaces and put sand between them, you create a sandpaper effect. Carpet prevents or reduces this big time.

Here are a couple of threads that touch on UBBs and scratches in general:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/please-help-trailer-bunks-scratching-black-hull.9368/
https://jetboaters.net/threads/bunk-scratches.7582/

 

[Ronnie]

The slides I bought came with a warning about bunk sanding without using the term. Basically it stated to keep the slides clean and went on to push their spray on lube which will help with this.

 

[yam240sx]

also important is the hanger bolts ... they are basically supporting the whole boat .. i may change the bunks .. then hangers as well

 

[Tjw961]

Hanger bolts going through your leaf springs also come in contact with a bushing that goes through the leaf spring at the eyelet end of each spring. So if you're going to do hanger bolts you might as well do those bushings too at a min. From what I've seen the leaf springs normally include those bushings when you get them new. So for me if I'm getting into all that work I'm swapping all of those parts out so I dont have to go in there again. I just re did all my trailer hubs, springs, etc last year so expect not to need to do again for many years out now. One item that made all that work easier for me was an 18v impact gun. Ridgid is the series I have, so added just the tool. But busting through those bolts went rather quickly with that thing for me.

 

[yam240sx]

mine have hanger brackets ... L shaped square brackets