Geoff Cooper
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 1,124
- Reaction score
- 1,256
- Points
- 262
- Location
- Thailand
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2006
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 23
Were're just coming to the end of the rainy season here in Thailand and this year apart from a few days it's been quite good and mainly rained at night not restricting boating however the last 3 days have been overcast and rainy so rather than get moody i decided to replace the Engine bay soundproofing as it was showing signs of wear and not looking it's best, I realized it was going to get messy so to eliminate as much mess as possible here's how i went about the job, I welcome any suggestions and other ideas that you may have as i had not done this before although i had had some experience with contact adhesive and the idea was to keep thing's as neat and tidy as possible, Ok here we go. Oh excuse the head gear it was 90% humidity and i needed something to stop the sweat running in my eyes as it was damn hot working there.
I removed the top end of the hatch dampers so they just lay down out of the way and also easier to reconnect as your not bent over in the Engine bay trying to work in an awkward position.
I wanted to tackle the job without completely removing the Engine cover but still allowing me plenty of room to work,Firstly i considered how to support the Engine cover and found this idea although gave me good access looked like it was going to damage the mating on the walk through part of the swim platform and also wasn't as secure as i would have liked so i finally decided to make a slip knot in a piece of cord and completely loop it over the lock on the Engine cover and attach the other end to the wake tower, This was ideal and allowed good space to work, You will see what i mean later.
The next stage was to create a good working environment so a quick trip to the local TV shop for a reinforced cardboard box that TVs come in they are very strong, I managed to get one a perfect size to fit over the Airboxes and to butt up neatly to the rear of the Engine bay but you can always cut them down to size if need be, Ok the next step was to use the palm of my hand and hitting the cardboard to secure it over the Engine removal loops, It was now secure and not moving anywhere.
Place a pair of steps on it and make sure that the feet are wide enough to sit on the Airboxes and your ready to start, You can see how neat it will fit you use the whole box just collapse it you could also use a piece of plywood if you wanted to and cut some slots in it, Oh make sure all your plugs are in the floor of the Engine bay so as no rubbish gets down the holes.
Ok you can see what the old foam was like it was now time to take some rough measurements and off to the Trim shop to get all the gear.
This Guy supplies most of the local Trimmers so he knew what i wanted Fire retardant soundproofing and 2
tins of contact adhesive.
This was before i started stripping it but i took measurements and cut the new Soundproofing so i could see the original shapes.
Nothing was glued as yet just a good fit and holding itself in position, make sure you work the foam right into the small nooks and crannies so as to make a good job, After i had cut all the shapes it was time to start cleaning all surfaces
Ok time to start stripping all shapes have been cut and new foam is ready to be installed.
The vacuum worked overtime but made life a bit easier, Look just above the 2 nuts and washers and you will see 12 small screw points coming through the Fibreglass take care they will cut you very easy as there hidden under the old foam.
I knew it was going to get messy, I had considered laying the new soundproofing on top of the old but changed my mind as i didn't think the job would have been good enough and it would have played on my mind that i could have done better so although it was hot and messy i had a good position to work and had no need to rush.
Wire brush the whole area then vac
Ok when you have removed all the old Soundproofing clean all the surfaces with a rag and some thinners then Vac again, You don't want any dust on the surfaces your going to be working on, You can see those small screw ends better in this Photo.
I just painted a strip across the bottom of the part i wanted to stick and on the lid also just to line thing's up nicely, Don't rush you have plenty of time to work, I placed a piece of hard cardboard over my knees just to make it easier to put glue onto the foam make sure you spread it well it doesn't have to be thick at all as your putting glue on both surfaces, You can see the cord i attached to the locking mechanism and the wake tower now.
Ok Start laying it.
You can see how it supports itself as i can carry on applying the glue make sure you get the edges covered
I work from the bottom up it makes life a little easier as it supports itself
This is a bit tricky as it has to fold under and into a small shelf right at the back but make sure you get glue into the shelf and it will hold very easy but take care and make sure you get it right first time as it will be awkward to remove for a second attempt, You will see what i mean when you measure the piece to be fitted try to fit it first without the glue so you can see what has to be done.
Ok it's all taking shape now and time to start trimming, Foam blunts knives very quickly so make sure you have some spare blades as you want to cut neatly not tare, You can follow the original glue lines around if you want to but i had an idea that i wanted to try, I only left about half an inch gap at the sides as i wanted a tight fit when the lid closed and it worked really well, You can always trim back to the old lines if you feel the need
You have room to work very easy without removing the Engine cover completely.
This is the part where that shelf is i spoke about before as you can see i spent some time and made a nice tight fit, Still go lots of trimming to do so take your time, I found trimming some areas at an angle handy so the 2 edges joined together neatly, just work your way around.
Just lay back and enjoy the job
Spend a bit of time trimming nice and neat and then to check and clean the Engine bay itself,
Reconnect the dampers and check it all fits good.
Come on you didn't really expect me to climb inside the Engine bay did you.
Ok all nice and clean and make sure you vac it all out we don't want any old foam getting anywhere it shouldn't
Ok it took me about a day including a very good clean up after, You can remove the rear seats if you want to but it's not really necessary, I did but only to give them a real good clean behind where you cant get to under normal circumstances, I also ran water through after i had finished just to make sure that there was no unwanted foam anywhere.
If I've missed anything just ask and i will do my best to answer any queries, It made a hell of a difference when i started the Engines up it's really very quiet now and i found trimming closer to the edge a real advantage as when you close the hatch now you just get a gentle thud, Total cost about $60 and taking her for a meal at the Seafood restaurant for cleaning the engine bay for me.
A word of warning expect some Fibreglass splinters so a pair of tweezers a magnifying glass and some TCP may be needed as it's not a job that gloves can be used, I'm sure your good Lady will enjoy inflicting some pain during the evening while removing the splinters, Take care when working under and around that shelf, I mentioned there are small rear seat securing screws protruding through the Fibreglass and they will cut your fingers i have shown them in the Photos but just in case you missed them be warned , Just take your time it's well worth it. Good Luck.
I removed the top end of the hatch dampers so they just lay down out of the way and also easier to reconnect as your not bent over in the Engine bay trying to work in an awkward position.
I wanted to tackle the job without completely removing the Engine cover but still allowing me plenty of room to work,Firstly i considered how to support the Engine cover and found this idea although gave me good access looked like it was going to damage the mating on the walk through part of the swim platform and also wasn't as secure as i would have liked so i finally decided to make a slip knot in a piece of cord and completely loop it over the lock on the Engine cover and attach the other end to the wake tower, This was ideal and allowed good space to work, You will see what i mean later.
The next stage was to create a good working environment so a quick trip to the local TV shop for a reinforced cardboard box that TVs come in they are very strong, I managed to get one a perfect size to fit over the Airboxes and to butt up neatly to the rear of the Engine bay but you can always cut them down to size if need be, Ok the next step was to use the palm of my hand and hitting the cardboard to secure it over the Engine removal loops, It was now secure and not moving anywhere.
Place a pair of steps on it and make sure that the feet are wide enough to sit on the Airboxes and your ready to start, You can see how neat it will fit you use the whole box just collapse it you could also use a piece of plywood if you wanted to and cut some slots in it, Oh make sure all your plugs are in the floor of the Engine bay so as no rubbish gets down the holes.
Ok you can see what the old foam was like it was now time to take some rough measurements and off to the Trim shop to get all the gear. This Guy supplies most of the local Trimmers so he knew what i wanted Fire retardant soundproofing and 2
tins of contact adhesive.
This was before i started stripping it but i took measurements and cut the new Soundproofing so i could see the original shapes.
Nothing was glued as yet just a good fit and holding itself in position, make sure you work the foam right into the small nooks and crannies so as to make a good job, After i had cut all the shapes it was time to start cleaning all surfaces
Ok time to start stripping all shapes have been cut and new foam is ready to be installed.
The vacuum worked overtime but made life a bit easier, Look just above the 2 nuts and washers and you will see 12 small screw points coming through the Fibreglass take care they will cut you very easy as there hidden under the old foam. I knew it was going to get messy, I had considered laying the new soundproofing on top of the old but changed my mind as i didn't think the job would have been good enough and it would have played on my mind that i could have done better so although it was hot and messy i had a good position to work and had no need to rush.
Wire brush the whole area then vac
Ok when you have removed all the old Soundproofing clean all the surfaces with a rag and some thinners then Vac again, You don't want any dust on the surfaces your going to be working on, You can see those small screw ends better in this Photo.
I just painted a strip across the bottom of the part i wanted to stick and on the lid also just to line thing's up nicely, Don't rush you have plenty of time to work, I placed a piece of hard cardboard over my knees just to make it easier to put glue onto the foam make sure you spread it well it doesn't have to be thick at all as your putting glue on both surfaces, You can see the cord i attached to the locking mechanism and the wake tower now. Ok Start laying it.
You can see how it supports itself as i can carry on applying the glue make sure you get the edges covered
I work from the bottom up it makes life a little easier as it supports itself
This is a bit tricky as it has to fold under and into a small shelf right at the back but make sure you get glue into the shelf and it will hold very easy but take care and make sure you get it right first time as it will be awkward to remove for a second attempt, You will see what i mean when you measure the piece to be fitted try to fit it first without the glue so you can see what has to be done.
Ok it's all taking shape now and time to start trimming, Foam blunts knives very quickly so make sure you have some spare blades as you want to cut neatly not tare, You can follow the original glue lines around if you want to but i had an idea that i wanted to try, I only left about half an inch gap at the sides as i wanted a tight fit when the lid closed and it worked really well, You can always trim back to the old lines if you feel the need
You have room to work very easy without removing the Engine cover completely. This is the part where that shelf is i spoke about before as you can see i spent some time and made a nice tight fit, Still go lots of trimming to do so take your time, I found trimming some areas at an angle handy so the 2 edges joined together neatly, just work your way around.
Just lay back and enjoy the job
Spend a bit of time trimming nice and neat and then to check and clean the Engine bay itself,
Reconnect the dampers and check it all fits good.
Come on you didn't really expect me to climb inside the Engine bay did you. Ok all nice and clean and make sure you vac it all out we don't want any old foam getting anywhere it shouldn't
Ok it took me about a day including a very good clean up after, You can remove the rear seats if you want to but it's not really necessary, I did but only to give them a real good clean behind where you cant get to under normal circumstances, I also ran water through after i had finished just to make sure that there was no unwanted foam anywhere.
If I've missed anything just ask and i will do my best to answer any queries, It made a hell of a difference when i started the Engines up it's really very quiet now and i found trimming closer to the edge a real advantage as when you close the hatch now you just get a gentle thud, Total cost about $60 and taking her for a meal at the Seafood restaurant for cleaning the engine bay for me.
A word of warning expect some Fibreglass splinters so a pair of tweezers a magnifying glass and some TCP may be needed as it's not a job that gloves can be used, I'm sure your good Lady will enjoy inflicting some pain during the evening while removing the splinters, Take care when working under and around that shelf, I mentioned there are small rear seat securing screws protruding through the Fibreglass and they will cut your fingers i have shown them in the Photos but just in case you missed them be warned , Just take your time it's well worth it. Good Luck.
