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Scupper Replacement

mraz72

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Is it highly suggested to replace the plastic Yamaha scupper plugs on the transom with stainless steel plugs?

I believe I saw the attwood plugs were recommended?
 

0627Devildog

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Following
 

2nazt

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I thought the newer boats it isn't really a concern, I may be wrong (my wife says I am a lot). The older boats the scrubber was below the water line causing the issue. On the newer boats it is that design. But unsure if it different per size?
 

MrMoose

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My 2015 scupper is just above the waterline, but it will leak from splashing if not properly sealed. I assume that one of the older models with the scupper below the water line could produce a leak that the bilge pump can't keep up with in the event of a failure. I expect that the newer models would not lead to catastrophy in the event of a scupper leak in that the bilge pump would be able to keep up.
 

mraz72

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I'll have to look this weekend...

So on the 192 boats the scupper plugs are above the water line?
 

Britboater

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My 240 scupper is right on the water line, if it did fail it would defiantly flood the boat.
I noticed the other day that even Bayliners, who I would put in a lower range than Yamaha, have S/S scuppers and well above the water line :confused:.

image.jpeg
 

mraz72

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Maybe I don't know what a scupper is.

What are the two plugs that I have to close, on the transom before launching the boat? they are below the water line, and I thought those were failing on some boats...
 

itsdgm

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Maybe I don't know what a scupper is.

What are the two plugs that I have to close, on the transom before launching the boat? they are below the water line, and I thought those were failing on some boats...
Sounds like those are drain plugs. I only have one on my boat. A scupper drain is the outlet that is connected to the deck drain. It's designed so that water that enters the deck area, for example from a wave taken over the bow, can exit the boat without going into the bilge. The drain plug/s simply empty water from the bilge.
 

Julian

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I used to think this was not an issue for the newer boats as they moved the scupper above the water line, but looking at a photo I took last year I am now thinking this is something we all need to consider.

As you can see from the photo I am referring to....the scupper is slightly below the water line with just my daughter on the boat. Add a couple more people...especially if they are on the stern and that thing would be completely submerged. Even as it is, if it cracks off like the old ones do, it wouldn't take long for enough water to enter and lower the boat enough to submerge it completely and overwhelm your bilge. Obviously if you heard the bilge going non-stop, one of the best things to do is to get the boat moving and on plane (unless of course your hull is compromised at the keel...then just beach it!).

scupper on 242x.jpg
 

MrMoose

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Yes, it will definitely leak into the bilge. My scupper fixture was not properly sealed to the hull and it was a source of water ingress until I sealed it. I took pics of the water leak from the inside of the hull, the dealer said that they fixed it... they didn't, so I did.
If the fixture broke, it wouldn't be a catastrophic leak like on the older models because there's less water pressure at the higher level. Assuming that your bilge pump works, it would definitely be able to keep up. BUT if your pump failed, you better get moving to land.
 

Bruce

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I believe @ArmyChief has experience replacing the drain plugs on a 190.
 

SeanPC

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I peaked down at my scupper from the access port the other day and the only thing I saw was the plastic retaining ring which was tight against the inside of the hull. @MrMoose - did you seal with silicone on the backside or from outside the hull. Wondering if that's one of the sources of my leak.
 

MrMoose

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@SeanPC I sealed it from the outside. Easier to reach and easier to visually see that it was well sealed. My leak was a trickle, nothing major, but it was a leak all the same and it needed to be fixed.
upload_2017-1-13_11-34-37.png
 

0627Devildog

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(then just beach it!)
Or double check to ensure your insurance policy is up to date and head to deeper water. . . . . . . ;)
 

Ando

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I want to upgrade the scupper on my 08 AR230 but I am afraid I may not seal it good :(
Is it worth paying someone else do it?
 

Beachbummer

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If you can find someone qualified to do it, and you felt very confortable with their ability to do it, and you were not at all handy and would rather pay someone else, then it could be worth it to you to pay someone. It is impossible to seal it wrong. the extra sealant will ooze out in all directions as you tighten. If you follow reasonable instructions, it will seal just fine. You need to be handy, and it helps to have another person help to install it. (One outside the boat, another on the inside)

Find a handy friend, and you will likely be able to complete a faster job with greater quality than a professional could do it....Just my opinion.

If you find a great pro willing and able to do it and you feel very strongly you could not do it yourself...nah..do it yourself! You can do it!
 

sunbyrned

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I used to think this was not an issue for the newer boats as they moved the scupper above the water line, but looking at a photo I took last year I am now thinking this is something we all need to consider.

As you can see from the photo I am referring to....the scupper is slightly below the water line with just my daughter on the boat. Add a couple more people...especially if they are on the stern and that thing would be completely submerged. Even as it is, if it cracks off like the old ones do, it wouldn't take long for enough water to enter and lower the boat enough to submerge it completely and overwhelm your bilge. Obviously if you heard the bilge going non-stop, one of the best things to do is to get the boat moving and on plane (unless of course your hull is compromised at the keel...then just beach it!).

View attachment 49943
The plastic scupper on my 2012 is in good shape but I have the stainless steel one in storage and just wondering if I really need to go there since it's a 2012. I understand what you're suggesting here but curious if you're aware of any instances with this design (as pointed out in your pic) that would justify the need to replace. Please understand, I'm not debating you. I'm just curious if you know whether or not your theory actually became a common problem. Thanks!
 
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