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Simrad GO12 on 2020 210 FSH Sport

Nice work on the installs!!

I just pulled the trigger on one of those Simrad GO 12 units as well, but I will not attempt the install myself... I am not ready yet lol! The installer here will take care of the MFD and the trolling motor/batteries. Seeing how they did it will give me confidence to do the other parts afterwards, but those two major ones scare me still (first boat owned!)

One thing I am wondering about is the Ridesteady I bought, I am not sure where to install it yet. I have seen it installed as a replacement to the one of the RPM gauges, but I was wondering if it was the best idea to lose one of those? Another option I was entertaining is replacing the stereo with a black box NMEA2k unit, which I could control from the Simrad... and another one was to see if it fits in the flat lip between the no-wake/cruise/washdown and the bilge/horn switch.

Any suggestion welcome, hope I am not hijacking the thread :)
 
Nice work on the installs!!

I just pulled the trigger on one of those Simrad GO 12 units as well, but I will not attempt the install myself... I am not ready yet lol! The installer here will take care of the MFD and the trolling motor/batteries. Seeing how they did it will give me confidence to do the other parts afterwards, but those two major ones scare me still (first boat owned!)

One thing I am wondering about is the Ridesteady I bought, I am not sure where to install it yet. I have seen it installed as a replacement to the one of the RPM gauges, but I was wondering if it was the best idea to lose one of those? Another option I was entertaining is replacing the stereo with a black box NMEA2k unit, which I could control from the Simrad... and another one was to see if it fits in the flat lip between the no-wake/cruise/washdown and the bilge/horn switch.

Any suggestion welcome, hope I am not hijacking the thread :)
I think you can connect the JL head unit to the simrad without a black box with a NMEA connector.
I am not familiar with a ridesteady. I’ll look into that.
 
I think you can connect the JL head unit to the simrad without a black box with a NMEA connector.
I am not familiar with a ridesteady. I’ll look into that.
Yes, you can, I am sorry I wasn't too clear... I am basically wondering where I'll be able to mount the ridesteady gauge with all of that stuff on the panel, at this point it will be a tight fit with the GO12 in there
 
Yes, you can, I am sorry I wasn't too clear... I am basically wondering where I'll be able to mount the ridesteady gauge with all of that stuff on the panel, at this point it will be a tight fit with the GO12 in there
I'm leaning toward having a custom switch panel created to shink their footprint, hoping that would buy enough room for ridesteady... and just maybe trimtabs. Even with my Garmin only being the 10" it's getting claustrophobic on that dash. Removing the ball compass is an option too.
 
Installed my Simrad Go 12 XSE with Active 3-1 Transducer. Thanks to the info here I decided to go for it. The screen was a very close fit due to the limited available room on my 2020 FSH 210 console. It will fit, just be careful with placing you cut out template.
 

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I have my transducer on the ride plate as well, I haven't noticed any difference in speed. In my environment I see greater variations on speed with boat weight, wind and current.
 
I have my transducer on the ride plate as well, I haven't noticed any difference in speed. In my environment I see greater variations on speed with boat weight, wind and current.
I think @zackmorris means do you lose sonar readings and have difficulty resolving the bottom of the seabed when cruising at faster speeds?
 
Thanks for clearing up my confusion . Yes you will loose bottom in the range of 20 knots +/-5 on my boat. I do have a shoot through hull transducer that will read at speed , but I just switch between the two if I reely care about reading bottom going fast. Most of the time I'm slowed down in an area where looking for known bottom structure, fish , going through wide creeks and such. Around here, in the lowcountry no depth transducer is going to save your ass running fast. We skip around sandbars and through blow downs get to where we go.
 
I'd highly recommend pulling your dash. It makes life so much easier. It's really easy to do. I was super sketched out about it at first too, but it gives you a much better working space and you're not forced into weird angles or areas fighting around the steering wheel/windshield frame.
How do you pull the dash?
 
You can pull the black trim off the front of the console. Also the switch pannel pulls out with a few screws. I dont know how much that would really help on the fsh installing an MFD.
 
Installed my transducer as seen in these pictures. Did a lot of reading before the transducer was installed, but the FSH hull design has limited options. I do not loose bottom reading at high speed unless its really choppy water. The lake here is sometimes really busy with a lot of chop from all the boat traffic. Overall I am more than happy with the transducer performance at its mounted location. I would do it again.
 

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2021 FSH 210 Raymarine Axiom + transducer install.
 

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Installed my Simrad Go 12 XSE with Active 3-1 Transducer. Thanks to the info here I decided to go for it. The screen was a very close fit due to the limited available room on my 2020 FSH 210 console. It will fit, just be careful with placing you cut out template.
Really nice and clean install @SAA_Woodstock where did you purchase the transducer bracket?
 
How has all of your equipment been working out for you?
Works great and better than expected. The Yamaha hull doesn’t give many good options for mounting a transducer. After researching about best practices for mounting the transducer, I was a bit nervous. But it works fantastic and very happy with it,
 
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